Sara makes this popular dish at her restaurant, using a pasta shape called anelloni, tubular rings made by Pastificio Masciarelli. The rings are smooth on the outside and ridged inside, about an inch in diameter and a little more than an inch long. Although typical of the Abruzzi, these anelloni are not always easy to find here, but the sauce is so delicious it will go with almost any hearty pasta shape. Try, for example, calamari, paccheri, or large ridged shells.
Spicing the ground lamb with North African flavors, including cumin and harissa, makes something similar to North African merguez sausage. If you have access to good-quality merguez, use that instead, discarding the skin and crumbling the sausage meat.
Mustard greens are easily available, but if you prefer, you may use broccoli rabe, in which case blanch the greens in boiling water for 2 minutes before adding them to the pan with the lamb.
SERVES 6
¾ pound lean ground lamb
1 to 2 tablespoons dried Greek or Sicilian oregano
1 tablespoon Aleppo pepper, more or less to taste
1 teaspoon Moroccan harissa, or more to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
4 garlic cloves, finely minced
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup heavy cream
1 bunch mustard greens, trimmed and sliced about 1 inch thick (6 to 8 cups)
About 1 pound (500 grams) anelloni or any other ribbed tubular shape
¼ cup toasted unflavored bread crumbs
3 tablespoons freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano, or to taste
Mix the lamb in a bowl with the oregano, Aleppo pepper, harissa, cumin, coriander, garlic, and parsley, kneading to mix well. Add salt and black pepper to taste.
Add the olive oil to a saucepan large enough to hold all the ingredients, including the pasta, and set over medium heat. Add the spicy lamb mixture and cook, sautéing and crumbling the lamb, until it has changed color. Do not let the lamb dry out until crisp and brown. Add the cream and, if necessary, a tablespoon or two of hot water; lower the heat to medium-low and let the liquid simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Add the sliced mustard greens and let them just wilt in the liquid in the pan.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt and the pasta and cook, following directions here, for 8 minutes, or until it is almost but not quite done.
If the meat gets too dry in the meantime, add a ladleful of pasta water to the saucepan.
When the pasta is almost done, drain (but not too thoroughly) and add to the meat and greens in the pan. Toss to combine and finish cooking, 3 to 4 minutes over medium heat.
Transfer the pasta to a warm serving bowl. Sprinkle the top with toasted bread crumbs and parmigiano and serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table, if desired.