Pappardelle are wide, flat noodles, sometimes with a ruffled edge. They are a tradition in Arezzo, our Tuscan shire town, where they’re often served with wild game—hare is a local favorite. Duck makes a great accompaniment too, especially when slowly roasted for several hours with nothing but salt and pepper, until much of the fat has melted off and the meat is succulent, tender, and full of flavor, almost like a confit. Another benefit from this method: about a cup of duck fat, fragrant with salt and pepper, that can be stored in a jar in the refrigerator and used whenever sautéed potatoes are on the menu. (Julia Child always had a jar of duck fat on hand for just such an occasion.)
You could roast a whole duck for this sumptuous recipe, but we find readily available duck legs are easier to work with than the whole bird.
SERVES 6
4 whole duck legs (about 3½ pounds)
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 bay leaves
5 garlic cloves
2 ounces pancetta or bacon, diced small (about ½ cup)
½ cup chopped celery
½ cup chopped carrot
½ cup chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves
1 cup dry red wine, preferably a Chianti Rufina or Chianti Classico
One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, with their juice
About 1 pound (500 grams) pappardelle
½ cup freshly grated parmigiano reggiano or Tuscan pecorino, plus more to pass, if desired
Prick the skin of the duck legs all over with a fork. (This will help release the duck fat.) Rub 2 tablespoons of the olive oil all over the duck legs and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Set the duck legs in the bottom of a roasting pan in which they will just fit comfortably and add the bay leaves and 1 of the garlic cloves. Transfer to a cold oven and set the temperature on 300ºF. Leave the duck legs to roast very gently for 3 hours, then raise the heat to 375ºF and roast for an additional 30 minutes, or until the duck legs are brown all over and the skin is crisp. When the duck is finished, take the legs out of the fat and set aside. Strain the fat into a refrigerator container. All this may be done well ahead, but if you are not making the ragù immediately, the duck should be refrigerated until ready to use.
When ready to make the ragù, strip the duck meat away from the leg bones, discarding the bones. Chop the meat coarsely, reserving several large pieces to use for garnish.
Combine 2 tablespoons of the duck fat with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy-duty saucepan and set over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until brown and crisp. Meanwhile, chop the remaining 4 garlic cloves and add them to the pan with the celery, carrot, onion, and 1 tablespoon of the sage. Stir into the fat. Let cook briefly, until the vegetables are softened, then add the wine and cook briskly until the wine has reduced by half. Stir in plenty of ground black pepper and the tomatoes, breaking them up in your hands or with a spoon. When the tomatoes are simmering, lower the heat and let the ragù cook gently for about 20 minutes, then stir in the chopped duck meat, except for the pieces reserved for garnish. Let the duck meat simmer in the ragù for another 20 minutes, during which time it will thicken and grow richer in flavor. At the end, taste and add salt if necessary and the remaining 1 tablespoon sage.
While the ragù is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt and the pasta and cook following the directions here. Pappardelle should be done in 8 to 10 minutes, but start testing earlier in order not to overcook.
Add a ladleful of duck ragù to a warm serving bowl.
When the pasta is al dente, drain it quickly and add to the bowl. Spoon another couple of ladlesful of ragù over the top and turn the pasta briskly in the sauce, adding a handful of the cheese as you do so. Finally, top the pasta with the remaining ragù, sprinkle with the remaining cheese, and garnish with the reserved pieces of duck. Serve immediately, passing more grated cheese if you wish.