Carciofi alla romana, slowly braised artichokes with mint and garlic, are classics of early spring in Rome when big fat mammole artichokes show up in the stalls at Campo de’ Fiori and other open markets. We love this Roman combination of flavors—slightly bitter artichokes, sharp fresh spring garlic, salty anchovies, and earthy mint to bring it all together. The artichokes often retain a little taste of lemon from the lemon water they sit in as you clean them, lending just the right touch of acidity to cut through the richness.
Artichokes are amazingly versatile. They can be eaten raw, lightly steamed, or deliberately overcooked, and they present different flavor profiles at each stage. Slow cooking, as in this recipe, brings out the sugars, to contrast nicely with the artichoke’s natural bitterness.
California artichokes are as big as mammole, even if they’re not precisely the same variety. Use 4 to 6 of those; or, if you find baby artichokes, you will need 12 to 16. Judge accordingly: You should have 1 to 1½ pounds of artichokes, once they are trimmed.
Instead of pennette, use penne, or any other of the great variety of short tubular pasta shapes.
SERVES 6
1 lemon, for preparing the artichokes
12 to 16 baby artichokes or 4 to 6 big artichokes
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, smashed with the flat blade of a knife
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
6 or 7 fresh mint sprigs, plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
4 or 5 fresh thyme sprigs, plus 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley
About 1 pound (500 grams) pennette or penne
½ cup freshly grated pecorino or parmigiano-reggiano, plus more to pass (optional)
Prepare the artichokes as described here. Cut larger artichokes into quarters or even eighths and scrape away the spiny choke at the heart. If you’re using baby artichokes, slice them in half lengthwise. (The point is to have pieces of artichoke sized to marry well when tossed with the pasta.) As you finish each artichoke, toss it into the bowl of acidulated water. (The artichokes may be prepared an hour or two before making the pasta.)
Heat ¼ cup of the oil over medium heat in a large heavy sauté pan—large enough to hold the artichokes and the pasta at the end. While the oil is heating, pat dry the artichoke pieces and add them to the oil, seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Feed the pan slowly, not adding all the artichokes at once, and keep turning and tossing the pieces. You are looking to get a lot of nice crisp brown texture.
When all the artichokes are in the pan, raise the heat and brown, turning and tossing the slices as you do so. As the artichokes brown, slide in the smashed garlic to brown a little in the oil. Now reduce the heat to low and add the anchovy fillets and the whole sprigs of mint and thyme, along with 1 cup water. Give the contents of the pan a stir.
When the water is simmering, cover the pan and braise the artichokes for about 15 minutes, or until they are tender. The liquid in the pan should be just simmering. If the pan dries out, add a little more boiling water—just a few tablespoons. (You may do this up to 2 hours or more before making the pasta; reheat when you’re ready to cook the pasta.)
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
While the water is heating, chop together the thyme leaves, chopped mint, and parsley. Raise the heat under the artichokes to boil away any residual cooking liquid, leaving 2 to 3 tablespoons of liquid in the pan. Remove and discard the herb sprigs.
Add salt and the pasta to the boiling water and cook following the directions here. When done, set aside about ¼ cup of the pasta water, then drain and toss the pasta in the pan with the artichokes. Add the chopped mixed herbs and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. If the pasta seems dry, add a little of the hot pasta water and toss again, adding the grated pecorino as you do so. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Transfer to a warm serving bowl and serve immediately, passing more grated cheese, if you wish.