Pasta with Wild Mushrooms, Rosemary, and Brown Butter
This is the simplest mushroom pasta dish we know. (For a slightly more complicated—and more autumnal—preparation, see the mushroom ragù here.) Although we use maccheroncini, pennette, or another short, stubby pasta, when it’s wild mushroom season in Tuscany and Umbria the mushrooms are often served with rich, handmade tagliatelle. If you have the time, making your own pasta will take this rustic dish up a notch and turn it into something truly elegant (directions are here). Morels are a favorite for this, but chanterelles and black trumpets are delicious as well. In Tuscany the most commonly used, most highly valued mushrooms are porcini, foraged in the chestnut and oak forests traditionally in the fall, but when conditions are right, they appear in late spring as well.
SERVES 6
2 to 3 pounds fresh wild mushrooms (morels, chanterelles, black trumpets, porcini, or a combination)
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
Sea salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
About 1 pound (500 grams) pennette, maccheroncini, or other short, stubby pasta
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
Trim and clean the mushrooms: Wipe chanterelles or porcini carefully, using a soft mushroom brush to get into all the crevices. We don’t rinse them because they absorb too much water and don’t cook well. But with black trumpets or morels, a quick soak is necessary to get the dirt out. Soak them no more than 5 minutes in cold water. Scoop the mushrooms off the top of the water, giving them a swish, so the grit that has fallen to the bottom is left behind. Pat dry, then spread out on a dry kitchen towel and let the mushrooms air-dry for about 45 minutes. Cut in half lengthwise, or in quarters if the mushrooms are very large.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
In a skillet large enough to hold the mushrooms and the pasta, melt the butter over medium heat until foaming. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt and turn the heat up to high. Sauté the mushrooms, and as they crisp up and the butter browns, add the rosemary and toss. Turn off the heat and reserve.
When the pasta water is boiling, add salt and the pasta and cook following the directions here, checking the package recommendations for time. When the pasta is al dente, drain and add to the pan with the mushrooms and butter. Toss to mix well. Sprinkle with the parsley and a little parmigiano and toss again. Transfer to a warm serving bowl and serve immediately with the rest of the cheese.