Once upon a time, salmon was a strictly springtime treat, when that sleek and graceful fish was in such abundance that whole schools ran up rivers on both sides of the Atlantic to spawn. But that was long ago, before dams, pollution, and overfishing wiped out the Atlantic salmon population. Nowadays, the only legal Atlantic salmon is farmed. But don’t knock it. Farmed salmon is a wise and healthy choice, as long as it is farmed sustainably—and most salmon is indeed farmed sustainably nowadays. You could, of course, use wild Pacific salmon in this dish, but the texture of the flesh is dry and less unctuous than that of the true Atlantic salmon.
Because salmon was always so closely identified with springtime, we think it belongs in the Spring section of recipes—but the dish is delicious almost any time of the year.
You could use any spring greens for this, including spinach, chard, pea shoots—or the mixture called braising greens. But be sure to select young, fresh, tender greens in their prime. Six cups may seem like a lot, but fresh spring greens cook down rapidly. This will be adequate for the number of servings.
SERVES 4 TO 6
One 1-pound piece fresh salmon
4 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup chopped scallions, small, thin leeks, or a combination
¼ pound fresh mushrooms, sliced (optional)
6 cups braising greens (see headnote)
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
About 1 pound (500 grams) fusilli or other curly pasta
Rinse the salmon and pat dry with paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the salmon, skin side down, and adjust the heat so the fish is cooking steadily but not burning; cook until the fillet is cooked through and the flesh has turned from translucent red to opaque pink. (Do not turn the salmon during cooking. If necessary, you can run it under a broiler for a minute or two to finish the top.) When the salmon is done, remove it from the skillet, sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper, and set aside.
Discard the burned fat in the skillet and when the skillet is cool enough to handle, wipe it out. Add 2 more tablespoons of the oil to the skillet. Add the scallions and mushrooms (if using) and set over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the scallions and mushrooms are soft. Add the greens with the water clinging to their leaves and a good sprinkle of salt. Cook until the greens are thoroughly wilted, stirring frequently and combining with the scallion mixture. When the greens are done, remove the skillet from the heat. Add the lemon zest and lemon juice and mix them in.
Remove and discard the salmon skin. Flake the cooked salmon and combine with the greens. Taste and add more salt and pepper or a little more lemon juice, if you wish. Keep the salmon and greens warm while you cook the pasta. (This may be prepared ahead to this point, but the salmon and greens should be hot when the pasta is ready.)
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt and the pasta and cook following the directions here. When the pasta is al dente, add ¼ cup of the pasta water to the greens and salmon and bring to a simmer. Drain the pasta and turn it into a warm serving bowl. Toss with the greens and salmon and serve immediately.