Ditalini with Fresh Shell Beans and Greens
The first shell beans show up in late July at farm stands and markets. They are a treat because their season is short and they are delicious, especially the vividly streaked red-and-white borlotti (aka tongues of fire). When shopping for shell beans, don’t look for fresh green pods—that means the beans inside aren’t quite mature enough to bother with. Unlike most produce, what you’re looking for are pods that are slightly dry, slightly limp, not firm and fresh feeling. If you see plump beans inside each pod, that’s all the better. Some other varieties to look for: cranberry beans (another name for borlotti), scarlet runner beans, flagrano (actually a French flageolet but grown to maturity as a shelling bean), and small white cannellini. In North American markets, there are dozens of different beans available, many of them heirlooms that are particular to a small region and not found elsewhere.
If using chard, strip the green leaves away from the center stems, reserving the stems for another purpose (chopped and added to a soup, for instance). Chop the greens coarsely to make about 4 cups raw greens.
This is a great summertime take on “pasta fazool.”
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 pounds shelling beans in their pods (see headnote)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
1 garlic clove, crushed with the flat blade of a knife and minced
1 small white onion, chopped fine (½ cup)
1 celery stalk, dark green if available, leaves included, chopped fine, to make ½ cup
¾ to 1 pound fresh chard or escarole, coarsely chopped, to make about 4 cups
1 medium or 2 small dried red chili peppers
Handful of basil leaves, torn
About 1 pound (500 grams) ditalini
¼ cup chopped pitted black olives, preferably Gaeta or similar
2 tablespoons coarsely grated parmigiano-reggiano or a young, soft pecorino
Shell the beans and add them to a saucepan with water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and add a pinch of salt. Cook the beans until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside in their cooking liquid.
Set another saucepan, one large enough to hold all the ingredients including the pasta, over medium heat. Add the oil, garlic, onion, and celery with a pinch of salt. Sauté gently, just until the vegetables start to soften, then add about 2 tablespoons water and continue to cook until the water has evaporated. Add the greens and about ½ cup water. Add the chili pepper and black pepper to taste. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the liquid thickens and reduces and the greens become wilted and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the beans, with any remaining liquid, and combine well with the greens. Cook another minute or two, then stir in the basil. Remove from the heat and taste, adding more salt and black pepper, if you wish.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt and the pasta and cook following the directions here, until not quite al dente. Set aside about ½ cup of the pasta water.
Drain the pasta and combine in the saucepan with the beans and greens, tossing to blend well. Set over medium heat and finish cooking the pasta with the greens and beans, adding a little pasta water if it seems necessary. When the pasta is al dente, add the olives, then taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.
Transfer the pasta to a warm serving bowl. Sprinkle with the grated parmigiano and serve. (Note this is just a small amount of cheese. Don’t overdo it—you want to taste the freshness of the beans.)