Modern Selvage Quilting

All selvages have two things in common: they’re located on the edge of a piece of fabric and they’re finished so they won’t fray.

Beyond that are variations. Some selvages have a straight edge; some have a shaggy edge. Some are quite wide; some are narrow. Most are white or beige, but some are the same color as the base fabric. Many, but not all, are printed with designer and manufacturer information, which may include fabric pattern name, company name, fiber content (100% cotton), year made, country of manufacture, and more. Also included is a row of colored dots, often numbered, showing each color that appears in the fabric design. All selvages are meant to be removed from the fabric before sewing. All are meant to be saved and sewn into selvage projects of their own. (I threw this last one in because, hey, it should be so!)

In recent years, many selvages have become prettier, much to the delight of selvage quilters. In particular, the numbered colored windows aren’t always dots anymore. Novelty shapes, sometimes representing an item in the fabric design, are used. Tiny birds, flowers, or stars are examples. Another way selvages are stylish is the increased use of designer logos and small images or symbols representing a fabric line. Many selvages today have a lot more going on than plain text and numbered dots.

The selvages in this book are cut from quilting cottons. In the projects, I used only white selvages for 2 reasons: first, probably more than 95 percent of the selvages I have in my collection are white; second, I think that crisp, white lines look best in these modern quilt designs. This is my preference. Throughout the book I will refer to the selvages as white, or mention the “white selvage part.” That said, there is nothing wrong with using whatever selvages you have. Let your own style shine.

If you already save your selvages, keep doing what you’re doing. If not, then your first step is to dig through your sewing room trash can and rescue the selvages you can. Next, decide to make selvage-saving a habit and an ongoing part of your sewing process. Make a reminder sign for your sewing room if you need to. Make cutting and saving the selvage the first step of any new project. (If you prewash, as I do, wash first, then cut the selvage off after.)

Use your rotary cutter and ruler to slice the selvage nice and straight. Do not snip and rip a selvage, as ripping can distort and wreck the fabric portion that may be showing in your project. It’s up to you how wide you cut the selvage strip, but as a rule it’s always better to cut it wide. If you wish to trim it to a narrower strip later, you can. But you can never add fabric back once it’s cut. The absolute minimum width you should cut is with just ¼˝ of fabric left above the white selvage part. Selvages with less than a ¼˝ of fabric can’t be used for projects in this book.

NOTE I personally cut all my strips so at least ¾˝ of fabric is showing above the top of the white selvage part.

NARROW-CUT SELVAGE: A selvage cut with ¼˝ of fabric remaining above the top of the white selvage part.

WIDE-CUT SELVAGE: A selvage cut with a minimum of ½˝ but ideally and typically ¾˝–1¼˝ of fabric remaining above the top of the white selvage part.

Pick a spot to store your selvages. It can be a drawer, a small container, or an envelope—wherever—but having them all together will help you easily keep track of how many you have.

If your collection is accumulating too slowly for your liking, consider asking quilting friends to help build your selvage stash—that is, if they don’t keep their own. Maybe offer them a surprise scrap bag or some fabric in return. If you ask fellow quilters for selvages, though, don’t be shy about politely saying that you need them cut with at least that ¼˝ of fabric above the white part—and more if possible. I know from experience that if you don’t specifically ask for it, you will get many selvages cut just at the edge of the white section, and you won’t be able to sew with them.

Just as you like to have your fabric smooth and flat before starting any project, the same should apply for your selvages. Iron them. There is no need to use any starch. A regular pressing with maybe a bit of steam is all you need.

Have a good look at each selvage piece as you’re ironing. This is the perfect time to inspect them all. Do you see any flaws? Remember, these fabric edges were not originally intended to be used, so they may not be perfect like the rest of the fabric. Look for snags or pulls. Look for bumpy edges. Look for crooked edges.

NOTE Selvages are sometimes a little uneven, but areas that are really rounded out or significantly wider or narrower than the rest will be annoying to use, as they will not allow you to sew a nice, straight line.

Look for dirt or stains. (If a fabric bolt is ever set down, it is the selvage that touches the floor.) You may not find a single selvage in your stash with a flaw, but it’s important to check to avoid sewing frustration or disappointment later.