Sarah Sutton
INTRODUCTION
4 of our wagons are not covered in the yard we have a light two horse wagon for myself and some of the least children to ride in the girls are very busy in washing and cooking every day as we have a great deal of company and a large family, and it is a great trouble to get rid of our things. we have to give away a great deal
With such words written to a niece in an undated letter did Sarah Sutton describe the beginning of a long journey from Illinois to Oregon with her large family. And large it was: There were eight children of hers by her former husband, Joel Stewart, from whom she had been widowed on June 1, 1847. There were four more children by John Pierce Sutton and his first wife, Nancy McCall Sutton. Sarah and John, a widower, had been married sometime in 1848. There was one small boy, age 4, named Walter, who was the son of Sarah and John Sutton.
In the same letter Sarah wrote “Augusta is not well.” There is a family tradition that Sarah made a shroud for 16-year-old Harriet Augusta to wear in case of her death on the long journey. There was no need. The daughter lived a long and rich life. The men probably prepared clean boards and laid them on the floor of one of the wagons before loading it. These would be the material for a coffin in case it was needed. In this case the shroud and coffin makings were not used for Augusta, but for her mother, Sarah, the writer of the journal, who died sometime in September in the Tygh Valley, just east of Mount Hood in eastern Oregon. Sarah did not reach the promised land. The children later remembered how the wagons were driven back and forth over the new-made grave so that it would not be molested. The wagon train did not reach the Willamette Valley until October 2, 1854.
Your editor assumed at first that Sarah Sutton died soon after the last entry was written on August 15. That, however, was not the case. She had loaned her glasses to a woman in a neighboring wagon train, and did not get them back. Hence, she could not see to write.
Sarah (Thurston) Sutton, (b. Jan. 12, 1806, in New Bedford, Ohio), was not one of those who wrote routinely about the finding of grass, water, and fuel every day. She shared her inner thoughts, her hopes and fears, her treasuring of every beautiful scene and those not so beautiful. She was deeply religious, writing down quotes often from the ancient hymns of her day. She knew her King James Bible intimately and made references to it often.
John Pierce Sutton (b. Sept. 20, 1805, Roane Co., Tennessee) and his three oldest sons, James McCall, Solomon Henry, and Asahel (Asa), traveled west over the Oregon Trail in 1851. They settled on a land claim near Holmes Hill, some 10 miles as the crow flies west and a little north of Salem in Polk County. Their neighbor to the east was a farmer named Horatio Nelson Viscount Holmes. They were near the “Old California Trail, ” now Highway 99 W. they were right on the edge of Baskett Slough, the winter home of thousands of Canadian geese.
John and James McCall Sutton, father and son, returned to Illinois, arriving September 26, 1853, and they all began to get ready for the overland journey the next year described in Sarah’s journal. Solomon Henry and Asahel stayed on in Oregon. What the Illinois folks did not know until the end of their journey in October was that Asa died in July while they were on their way west.
It was on April 25, 1984, that the editor of this set of books spoke to a retired teachers group at the Salem Y.W.C.A. He told about how the project was generated and discussed the number of documents that had been found in the hands of private parties. After the presentation Mrs. Thelma “Rita” Clement came forward to say that a friend of hers, Howard B. Giesy of Aurora possessed the diary of an ancestor who had crossed the plains. A phone call opened up the channel to Giesy, and a few days later we held the precious hand-written document in our hands. This diary of Sarah Sutton is one of the treasures of American history, and we are fortunate to be able to publish it to be used for all time forward as a basic source on travel overland.
The letters included with the diary are from the collection of Sutton papers in the hands of Mrs. Laura Krantz Johnson of Eugene, Oregon. She has been most gracious, even enthusiastic, in sharing them with us. Mrs. Johnson is a Sutton descendant.
Other descendants, direct or indirect, who have helped in our research on Sarah and John Pierce Sutton and their families are Pauline Sullivan of Langlois, Oregon; Don and Lillian Larson, Waldport; Mrs. Justine Jones, Salem, and Mrs. Zahna Z. Rainboth, Gold Beach.
MEMBERS OF THE PARTY IN 1854
Children of Joel and Sarah Stewart
(Five of Sarah’s children had died at an early age before 1854.)
Laura Ann (Stewart) Carter, b. Apr. 14, 1829. She married Joseph Carter, date unknown. Sarah Stewart in an April 1847, letter to her mother said, “Laura & Joseph did not agree long and she has been home for six months He kept her & bedclothes &c and we cannot get them.” This quarrel seems to have been patched up by 1854, for he traveled with the overland party. They are listed as husband and wife in the 1860 and 1870 Polk Co., Oregon, censuses. They had three small children with them during the crossing, six more through the years in Oregon.
Ann Elizabeth Stewart, b. Oct. 3, 1832. She was listed as a single woman in the Oregon 1860 census.
Amos Kendall Stewart, b. Mar. 24,1836. He is the one nicknamed “Doc” in the overland journal. In the 1860 census he is listed as a farm worker, living in Polk Co. By 1870, according to census records, he was living with his brother, Frank, in Port Orford, Curry, Co., on the southwest Oregon coast, keeping saloon.
Harriet Augusta Stewart, b. Apr. 13, 1838. She was married to Aaron Zahniser in Marion Co., Oregon, on April 9,1855. He was a Pennsylvanian by birth. They lived in Marion Co. for several years, he working at his trade as a tanner. In later years he had a leather shop in Portland.
Melissa Stewart, b. Jan. 20, 1840. Marriage records for Marion Co. tell of her marriage to Samuel Smith on Apr. 6,1856. They lived most of their married lives in Portland.
Hanna Jane Stewart, b. Aug. 22, 1841, Illinois. She was listed in the 1870 census of Marion Co. as the wife of John F. Smith, a Bavarian farmer. They became parents of a large family.
Alexander Franklin (Frank) Stewart, b. Jan. 25, 1842, Cass Co., Illinois. He and Hattie M. Riley were married on Jan. 25, 1867. she died soon afterwards. He lived with his brother, Amos Stewart in Port Orford, Curry Co., Oregon, for a while before he married Laura E. Riley in 1872. He continued there as a school teacher. He later served as county treasurer, superintendant of schools, state legislator, and collector of customs in Coos Bay. There is a biography in Orvil Dodge, Pioneer History of Coos and Curry Counties (Salem, 1898), p. 85. See also Pen Pictures of Representative Men of Oregon (Portland, 1882), p. 54.
Susan Stewart, b. Feb. 5, 1845. She became the wife of John Reynolds, a house painter in Portland. According to a descendent today, “They were never well off. She died in poverty.”
Children of John Pierce and Nancy (McCall) Sutton:
James McCall Sutton, b. June 29, 1830; d. Oct. 21,1878, Ashland, Oreg. He went west with his father and two brothers in 1851; returned to Illinois with his father, and was a member of the 1854 party. He married Mary Jane Shook in Jacksonville, Oreg., Feb. 14, 1867. He is noteworthy in Oregon history as the person who named Crater Lake. As editor of the Jacksonville Oregon Sentinel he led a party into the lake in July and August, 1869. Twelve persons, including his father, John Pierce Sutton, packed in with pre-cut timber with which to construct a small boat. They carried the pack down to the shore of the lake and were soon paddling over to Wizard Island. That night around the campfire they discussed what the lake should be called. They had all come to the conclusion that the mountain was volcanic, so they dubbed the body of water “Crater Lake.” The details of this episode are described in the Sentinel in its August 21 and 28 issues for 1869. An easily accessible reference is Howard and Marian Place, The Story of Crater Lake National Park (Caldwell, Id., 1974), pp. 24–26.
Solomon Henry Sutton was 19 years old when he traveled overland with his father and two brothers in 1851. He remained in the Northwest. His later years were spent in Montana, where he died in the town of Stanford on July 25, 1916.
Asahel Sutton was listed as being 16 years old in the 1850 Cass Co., Illinois census. He was an overlander in 1851 with his father and two brothers. The 1854 party was shocked when they arrived in the Willamette Valley to find that he had died the previous July.
Margaret Jane Sutton, b. Dec. 1838; d. Oct. 24, 1904, Jackson Co., Oreg. She and Benjamin Franklin Miller were married on May 14, 1857, in Polk Co., Oreg. He was a nurseryman. They moved to become pioneer settlers in the Rogue River Valley of southern Oregon. Ben Miller had been a member of the Sutton wagon train of 1854. In the years of their married life they were blessed with six children, three of whom died at an early age.
Mary Emily Sutton was an 11 year-old in 1854. She and Thomas Curry were married in Jackson Co. on Oct. 15,1863, according to official marriage records of that county. Sarah Sutton wrote in a letter (undated) just before leaving for the west that “Mr. Suttons Beautiful little Mary came here and staid three or four hours with us…and was dressed as fashionable as a butterfly.”
Melinda (often spelled Malinda) A. Sutton was listed in the Jackson Co. Census of 1860 as a 20-year-old. She and Elizar Kimball were married in Polk Co., on Jan. 23,1856. They soon moved to Jackson Co., where they lived out their lives.
Child of John Pierce and Sarah Sutton:
Walter Sutton, b. Dec. 20,1849, Cass Co., Ill. In 1860 his father moved from Polk Co., Oreg., to Sam’s Valley in Jackson Co. Walter and Louisa Schmitt, an Iowa woman of German descent, were married on Feb. 14,1877. He became a well-known newspaper editor and publisher. His first training in this field was as a compositor in the plant of the Portland Oregonian. Most of his years were spent in southern Oregon where he was associated with several newspapers over the years. There are several references to his career: Orvil Dodge, Pioneer History of Coos and Curry Counties, (Salem, 1898), passim: George Turnbull, History of Oregon Newspapers (Portland, 1939), pp. 374–75. The Curry County Reporter, Progress Number (Gold Beach, Oreg. Aug. 1926) gave him full billing.
Roster of non-family members in the Sutton Diary
Joseph Carter. See Laura Ann (Stewart) Carter above.
Mr. Chamberlain was David Chamberlain, who settled in Lane Co. in the Eugene area. His land claim (No. 452) indicates that he was born in Oneida Co., N.Y., in 1819. He arrived in Oregon in Aug. 1854, and settled on his claim on Jan. 12,1855. The Oregon Statesman of Salem reported his wedding to Martha A. Cooper the following June 19 in Lane Co. in its issue of June 30, 1855.
Three Chapman brothers were members of the party. One was a single man, Addison B., born in Giles Co., Va., 1829. The other two brothers were George, age 32 and his wife, Eliza Jane; and John H., age 29, and his wife Martha M. They settled in Douglas Co., Oreg. All of them were from Iowa. They are recorded in land titles and censuses.
William Chapman (no relative of the above) and his wife, Mary Ann, were with the overland party. They were both born in Devonshire, England. They had arrived in the United States in May 1841, and traveled west to settle in Illinois. The Oregon land records indicated that they had been granted citizenship in Cass Co., Ill., in the Circuit Court in Oct. 1849. In Oregon they settled in Josephine Co., in Kerby precinct, on a stream which William dubbed “Chapman Creek.” There they raised livestock.
Thomas L. and Harriett J. Cook and their two little boys arrived in Oregon on Oct. 1, 1854, and settled on a claim in Polk Co., on June 8, 1855. They had been married on Sept. 13, 1850, in Cass. Co., Ill. They farmed in the Willamette Valley for 25 years. Their life is summarized in Joseph Gaston’s Centennial History of Oregon, II (Chicago, 1912), pp. 377–78. Over the years they had ten children.
Jacob “Missouri” Cook and his wife, Jane Ann, settled on a claim in Lane Co., Oreg., on Feb. 14, 1855. He had traveled west from Rockingham Co., Va., to Dale Co., Mo., where he and Mary Jane were married on December 23, 1845. They had three Missouri-born children with them on the overland journey, one of them a tiny baby.
William Dunbar is only one of several of that name in early Oregon. So-far he is unidentifed.
Gov. Gaines was John P. Gaines, appointed by President Zachary Taylor to be the second governor of Oregon Territory. He served three years. His biography is in George Turnbull’s Governors of Oregon (Portland, 1954), pp. 22–23.
Mr. Gray was Joseph Gray, who, with his wife, Mary, accompanied the party overland. They settled on a claim in Polk Co., on Sept. 29, 1854. He was 20 years old, and she was 17 when they traveled west from Morgan Co., Ill.
Reuben Thurston Lockwood was a delightful 30 year-old teacher from Ohio. He had traveled overland in 1852, but the long wet Oregon winter discouraged him, and he went east again via the Panama route. At home in Ohio the bitter winter of 1853–54 discouraged him again, so he returned to Oregon in 1854 with the Sutton wagon train. He married a young widow, age 25, named Mary C. Bryant, who had a daughter, Nancy Ann, b. 1850. This Oberlin educated young man studied the law on his own and was admitted to the bar in 1858. Over the years the family moved often as he taught in such disparate places as Oregon City, The Dalles, Petaluma, Ca., and several Washington schools. His story is well told in Fred Lockley’s “Impression and Observations of The Journal Man” in the Oregon Journal of Portland of July 16 and Aug. 16,1936, in interviews with Lockwood descendants.
William Marlett (correct spelling, Marlatt) died on the trail after leaving the Sutton train. His widow, Mary, remarried a French Canadian named Joseph Bashaw and became a Marion Co., settler.
Miller, Benjamin Franklin. See Margaret Jane Sutton, above.
Meshach and Elizabeth Tipton, both born in Tennessee, traveled overland with the Sutton wagon train with five strapping sons. They settled in Douglas Co., Oreg., near Scott Mountain close to present Sutherlin.
W. Turnham is so-far unidentified. There had been an earlier notorious character in Oregon named Joel Turnham, but he was killed in a gun fight in 1845.
The Widow Waldo was Avarila Waldo. There is a deposition in the Oregon land records which reads, “Waldo, Avarila ‘a widow lady,’ Douglas Co; b. 1810, Spencer Co. Indians; Arr Ore 17 Sept 1854; SC settled claim 29 Nov 1855; m John B. Waldo. 5 Feb 1856 Avarila Waldo gave off that her husband, John B. Waldo, left Mo 20 April 1849 with intention of coming to Ore, by way of Cal for the purpose of taking a land claim, they arrived in Cal 23 Sept 1849, that her husband died of Diahria on the Makson River 5 Nov 1849, deponent returned to the States in the year 1850. Deponent came across the plains to Oregon in 1854 and arrived in Territory 17 Sept 1854, & that she has no children living.” Mrs. Waldo settled on claim No. 667 in Douglas Co., in southern Oregon. What happened to the “7 Negroes” mentioned in the diary is not known. See Genealogical Material on Oregon Donation Land Claims, III (Portland, 1962), p. 45.
FAMILY LETTERS
The following letters in the original manuscript belong to Mrs. Laura Krantz Johnson, of Eugene, Oregon, a descendant of John Sutton.
[Stewart/Sutton Family Letter. The first three paragraphs below were written by Harriet Augusta Stewart who was 15 years old at the time.]
Nov. 26, 1853
Dear Coussin,
I now sit down to address a few thoughts to my far distant Coussins, you must consider this as written to you all, with pleasure we received your letter which gave us great pleasure, we are sorry to heare of your sickness and the Death of Coussin Ella. I am glad you sent one of her yellow locks we expected to hear bad news from there and glad it is no worse, for of such is the kingdom of heaven. — We take the papers; & we hear from there every week ever since the yellow fever Commenced; I am glad we were out of the reach of yellow fever but it has been quite Sickly some have died tell Elen old Mrs. phelps is Dead; we have had some ague but nothing worse, I must stop for to night it is now after eight O Clock Mar [Ma] has gone to bed Par [Pa] has gone a Coon hunting we have heard them shoot twice since dark;
Here I am again after dark you ought to be here to see the girls there is more here then you could Stir with a stick. Margret Sutton is here now; Melissa and Margret and I are all of a size and are a wild Set Mar trys to keep us all to work but she cant come it we have some bad boys as well as girls james Sutton & dock [Amos] and frank are as bad as the[y] can be; dock wishes Wm. was here to help him carry cranes and brants he kills two at one shoot he fetches in ducks and quailes most every day we feel like thumping them for it for we have them to pick; we have 30 tame geese to pick we will pick them once more and then sell them we shall take with us 6 feather beds to oregon
we are all pleased with the Idea of going to oregon; two of our nearest neighbors are fixing to go with us one is Jo Grey; I want to go to see the curiositys and git gold for sewing & to see the buffalo and to hear the wolves howl.
I Margaret Sutton wants to go because the rest is a going and to meet my brother at the end of my journey.
I Mary Melissa want to go for the fun of travling and to ride a pony or an ox to drive cattle for my kind father, to help us get away from this sickly country, excuse my poor writing. If ever I write better my cousins shall hear from me.
I Amos Stewart want to go to drive A team and hunt the buffalo and antelope, and let the wolves, and Indians, alone if they will be so good as to let me alone — for give my poor writing I will let you have enough when I learn to write better. Amos K. Stewart
I Franklin A. Stewart, want to go to see the Journeys & cross the rockey mountains and the cascade mountains and see the tall fir timber and smell the sea breese if I live to get there I will go to school some more. Franklin A. Stewart
I Jim Sutton want to go to Oregon to find a place where I can get rid of these troblesome ge-hals [girls?], for they are more torment to me than forty head of stray ducks, they tease me from the time they open there eyes in the morning till they close there eyes to snore me a tune of peace. they beat me with rotten aples, bang me over the head with the dishrag. — If I do nothing but tear up an old dirty apron, although it may have a dozzen holes in it my poor head pays for it at the rate of twenty cts a yard. O! misrable being that I am! when shall my troubles have an end — All that read my tale of sorry pitty me Written by request and beaten for it at that. Yours truly J.M. Sutton
Monday evening I have waited for the rest to git through there nonsence and nonsence it is; James Jackson wife, Joseph Carter Sister died yesterday morning father and mother and joseph and Laura and Margret and I all went; tell Elen and francis and Cordelia that I have not forgoten them yet and never shall. I want them to write to me and tell me where the[y] all are and how the[y] are doing; dad and Jim got in such a hurry the other day to go to oregon the[y] sacked up there beans and peaches and sewed them up the[y] wanted to sack up the apples, and we told them they were not quite ready to go yet and to let them lie in the barrels; we have been making A good many sack and have A bout forty more to make; we have to sack every thing we take even our cloathes; I have to come to a close for want of something to say. give our respects to uncle John; you must write as soon as you recieved this Mar [Ma] wrote your mother a letter not long ago did you git it. from your cousin H Augusta Stewart to Miss Perkins
Written by Sarah Thurston Stewart Sutton: Number 1
Dec. 20th [1853]
Dear Brothers Sisters Nephews & Neices
You see that I am A going to trouble you once more with A few lines, and expect to while you and I are inhabitants of this present evil world, while there is but few of us spared to corispond with each other, the others tho as good have not been permited by our Father in heaven to remain but a short time upon earth, I hope they are sleeping now like Lam[b]s, upon their saviors breast, where the weary are to rest, and there we all shall meet and never part again, you know we never hear any good news, but we want to run and tell our friends, to come to see or hear, and this has been the case with me, ever since Mr. S returned although it is nothing to interest you, but I want to tell you how providence has smiled upon us and spared us both to meet once more, for he tells us we will acknowledge him in all of our ways and he will direct our steps & I dare not do any other way so you see I fear him, and cannot live with out his assisting aid. Mr Sutton arived safe hom the next Saturday night about midnight after I wrote that last letter to you, was from the first of July to the 26 of September coming hom the overland route he says he was so anxious to get hom it appeared as tho he would never get here again I think he suffered as much with homesick and anxious to get home as I did with anxiety to see him come he came across one of our old neighboars some distance of he told him he was going home with him they rode up and hallowed. I got up and went to the window saw two men. the moon shone bright, the man wanted to know if Mrs Sutton lived here said he had come to tell me that he had heard from Mr Sutton lately & he was well and doing well said I your George Mac, and Ive heard that myself. I guess you have got him along; I could see Mr S. sitting on his horse saying nothing I says Gorge you had better put up your horses and stay all night, he looked at Mr S says sposin we do, at that both jumped of and came in I lit a candle he took it and ran to the bed to look at Walter first, and then into the other room to the rest, they were all right up and slept no more that night, he rode home a mule and James came next day about noon with four more three of them packed coming before them without bridles, it was quite a show, with their oregon sadles belt spurs, whips 5 colored blankets, shotgun holster pistols, revolvers, butcher knives and durks [dirks] he gave me an oregon gold dollar, and a fifty dollar gold whach [watch] I had never seen before. I have no doubht but you have seen them, they were a great curiosity here, they paid 125 dollars apeice for their mules in oregon we have them all yet he would sell them at 100 dollars apeice as you may suppose as the word got out they swarmed here in every direction men and women for a good many miles around, he could hardly get a chance to walk out on the farm for two weeks coming to hear about the country, and their friends that are there and he met on the way he met Ira Kimball they had lost a little girl 5 years olds Henry had gone to the mines and he left Ira to go to school until he returns we have received a good letter from him. Ira had arrived there safe and was well pleased they are all glad that it ever fell to their lot to go to oregon. they all got rid of the Illinois ague along the way & have become perfectly healthy. James staid but A few days at home, his Uncle came and told him it would be the best thing he can do to go to illinois Colledge and get A finished education, and he would go with him and fetch his mule back they did so He is a Methodist preacher & has a circuit & has come back with the mule, we have had 3 pretty letters from Jim I am a going to send William one some time Jim fetched one of his sisters with him that lived in Dosha [Meredosia] and we sent amos right of for another that lived near, they made a good visit and returned home Melissa lives so far of he has not seen her yet he says he has seen so much better country than this that he can never be satisfied to stay here any longer than to fix to get away if he knew he had but two years to live he would take the children there to leave them in a healthy land there is warm winters and the easyest country in the world to make a good living in he took a claim and worked three weeks on it, and sold it for 400 dollars, he took a notion to come home and did not go to the mines at all people thinks he done well to make enough to get hom on it cost them a good deal when they got to St Jo in missouri they went in to a barber shop and got sheared and scraped bought new cloathing and dressed up fine and throw others away a great [unreadable word] Mr Sutton is very [anxious] to get of next spring but it is not certain yet as we dont know yet if he intends to and leave the farm it will take 3 wagons at least for our family a good many here a going in the spring and want him to go with them as he is acquainted with the way and the diferent tribes of indians although the indians were very numerous and troublesome they molested them in the least Joes family are all well and doing very well they are all here to day. I will send you a lock of Daniels yellow curls this leaves us all well and hope this will find you all well we received your letter and all of the papers — I was pleased that you sent me susans letter. the girls insist I send in a letter A specimen of their flower paintings Augusta and Melissa are nearly grown Augusta will be 15 in April she stays the most of the time with Laury. she is weaving this winter, tell [unreadable word] that Doc is pleased that his dad has got home, that he will not be obliged to kill sheep or any thing else alone he is feeding catching quail and sells them for 50 cts per dozen and ocasionaly hauls a load of corn to Beardstown for [?] cents per bushel for a neighbor. how is Nancy and John getting along how easy they might do well if they would I wish she loved her husband as well as you and I do ours they could not get a quarel out of me I am writing this so as to send you one of Mr Suttons letters to me that you may hear more from oregon than I can tell you, and I have none to present you they are gone. two of them are [unreadable words] Mr S is very anxious to get letters from all of you and watches every mail & has provided me with a pack of envelopes united states postage wafers steal pens and so forth got another letter yesterday from James is anxious to get back to oregon, if it is god’s will for us to go we shall leave it altogether with him to do as he thinks that it is best for us farewell though oceans wide between us mother it never can divide this union of the souls unto us be given to meet on that blest shore amidst the bliss of heaven. write soon tell Nan to write and tell us all about the things there. I would be glad to hear good news from them and to see them. Write to Doc from you know who
S & J Sutton
Letter written by Sarah Thurston Stewart Sutton: Number 2
March, 1854
Dear Brother and Sis,
I am scarcely able to write a few lines to you, to let you know what we are about. We are within one week of taking our last look of our old residence where we have lived and died for this last 21 years. I think I told you before that we sold our farm for 20 dollers per acre, and not one of the family sorry for it yet. For one I ought to be glad. I have had the ague most all winter. Have missed it of late, and took the areciples in my eye. The Doc lanced my cheek and corner of my eye in three places. It is getting well fast but my fingers and eyes are too week to be writing. We had our last sale day before yesterday and they are striping us pretty fast of our furniture. We have 3 new wagons in the yard painted red and green, get another this week. Come and help us make the covers and tent and see what a confusion we are in and the company that is coming all the time. We [have] a young man that is buying up cattle and turning in with ours. We have about a hundred head and Ira Kimball has sent for Mr. Sutton to bring 20 head of heifers bought with his money and we shall have half. When we get through. we are a going to take them. His son is buying them up, and feeds them till we start. They are a hundred dollars a head in Oregon. We take Ira a two horse carriage and use it through. The Lord only knows what luck we shall have but you will hear if I live. We have great news from our neighbours that went through last year. They said they were there just as well pleased as they could be and the children went to school the next day after they got there, and they had went to preaching every sabbath, and it was easier to drive his stock all the way to Oregon to winter them on grass than it was to raise a crop and feed it to them here.
March 15th
We have set the 20th of March to start. We have covered to of the wagons and the boys made their bed in them last night for the first. We shall have 6 covered wagons this week, one is Jo Carters and one William Marlets, the young man that is going with us. He has two hands and we have three, take them for their work through. I have written to Jane but believe I shall not have time to write to Susan. I want you to write to her and tell her about us. I will write to her after we start. We will probely lay by a few days at St. Joseph to brand stock and so forth. We have bought a five dollar sheet iron cook stove and a great lot of tin ware and 20 little flat pans to drink coffee in. Shall have 19 in family. Mr. Grey and family goes out with us. Our eggs and vegetables through the summer will be beans, dried fruit, rice, and so on. We received your children’s letters with great pleasure. Our children will not have a chance to write but you must write to Oregon and direct your letter to Cincinnati, Polk County, Oregon T. You can have a letter there against we get there, so no more for want of time. Oh may we meet in heaven.
Sarah S.
THE TRAVEL DIARY
From Beardstown Cass County [Illinois] crossing the Illinois river at Meredosia, and from thence to Quincey there crossing the Missisippi river on a steam ferrey boat and landing in the slave state, Missouri, leaving our old residence the 21st day of March 1854, bound for Oregon on the western shores of America. We much regret leaving behind us our good neighbours and kind friends to see their faces no more on earth. but we were bound to search for a healthyer and milder clime, than Illinois to spend the remainder of our days, let them be many or few, for our own satisfaction, and the benefit of our many children. I do not in the least regret leaving the sickness and cold, sand piles and lakes of that region behind, and are looking forward for the time to arrive when we may all get settled safe at our place of destination. passing through Missouri, I could not help meditating on the wonderful works of God. the wide missisippi river is stretched as a line, deviding the level country, from the Mountainous Missouri he has formed it hilly from the one river, clear into the other, to let us notice his handy work and the wide perraries waving in regular green hills are admirable, and reminds us of the poet. Wherever in all creation wide — We chance to turn our eye. We see inscribed on every side. There is A God on high Tis written on the boisterous wave in the heathen land. And on the clear blue sky. Tis writen in the lonesome cave, there is A God on high.1 most of the hills are long and gradualy discending, and acending the same way, and very good roads, when dry. we passt numbers of fine towns through Missouri
There are hours long departed, which memry bring like blosoms of Eden — to twine round the heart And as time rushes by — On the might of His wings They may darken awhile, but they never depart
[In margin:] I wrote 8 letters at St. Jo, and sent diferent ways to our friends
we came on in sight of St Joseph and campt for 3 or 4 days to rest our stock, and lay in the balance of our fit out. here one of our oxen died of murren [murrain], and a great many are gathering here for California and Oregon.
April saty 22 came into town this morn early, to cross the river with about 100 head of loose cattle, nine wagons and 10 head of horses, and 36 souls. we were detained untill after dark before all got over. the ferry boat was an old steam boat with the under part cleared out to take cattle in. they took the Cattle 5 wagons and family all on at once. we camped on the bank, and felt very thankful that we were landed there safe. we had some oats to feed our horses, but the cattle had nothing to eat. we felt a little doughtful that night, it being the first we spent in the indian nation, and so many strangers was tented near us. St. Jo is not a large town the situation is hilly clear into the river, and some of the streets dug through hills, and the river is very ugly, and mudy and the banks very steep, some buildings from the town have caved into the river
April 23 Sabbath as it is. we were obliged to travel about 5 miles back to find grass for our cattle we passed 3 or 4 white families, that were clearing a wide road through this 5 miles of heavy timber here we found good grass, and plenty of water and a good place to camp, in the edge of the plains, and laid buy one day for the sake of our cattle. here 3 indians come to see us they were a great curiosity our boys put up a hat for one to shoot at with his bow and arrow and he hit the mark. they gave him the hat, he put it on his head and went off.
April 24th we started this morn and came about 12 miles and found a creek and good place to camp, and stoped saw none of the red men. the plains are only plain one way yet, there is no timber but as hilly as Missouri up one hill and down on the other side, and when we come to the branch there is A few scatering trees.
April 25th we come on A few miles and were stoped by indians they had built A bridge acrosst a creek where they always had forded it. we parley’d A long time not knowing what to do. our men went and made a bargain with them to all go over for 5 dollars and a half, there was 13 gay indians at the bridge wraped in red, green, & blue and white blankets, we went across and went about A quarter and stoped. several come to see us, their heads were shaved all but a narrow strip from the crown of their head back and that stood strait up, and their head and temples painted red, and they wore heavy ear rings, and beads on their neck and rings on their wrist. I think they were fixed in their Sunday best, to see the Emegrants, and get all they could of them.
April 26 came on 4 miles to the mission,2 25 miles from St. Jo here is a farm A school, a store, and so forth, among the indians we come on a mile past to a branch and campd. here we have to wait a day or two for W Turnham to catch up with us. here we were again stoped by indians. they have a bridged A small branch, and fell two trees across the ford, and want 25 cents for each wagon. our cattle drinked at the branch and went over no thanks to them with a little work they have fixed the ford, so some wagons have crossed. we did not know but it would make war with the indians, the two days that we have stoped here, we have had some of the blanket men to take dinner with us
April 26 [date repeated] our friends came on last night after dark, and we started soon this morn paid the indians 10 cents for crossing on the bridge he come along very earley this morn, and come to us for his breakfast. Nathan brown knew him he was raised by Richard Johnson of kentucky, and had lived at George Finches in Meredosia he could talk as well as any person and could read. but I suppose chose to come and live among those of his own nation and wrap in his blanket. he was bareheaded had on A calico shirt, blue blanket, and mocesons, and no ornaments as the most of them have. the holes in his ears had torn out, by wearing heavy rings. we came about 2 miles to a little bridge about 6 feet across it here set 3 indians, wanting pay. our men told them they was not A going to pay them any thing, and they could not get a word out of them they gave them A dime apiece and we all went on, and A piece farther on was 5 more indians on ponys. we see narrow hard beaten paths every direction where they ride their poneys, and often see 20 little paths at each side of the road. the perrarie to day [h]as been up hill and down, but not too steep to cultivate, and at the foot of nearly all the hills was a mud hole. our horse wagon has mired down twice to day we had to hitch oxen to it to pul it out we stoped for the night sun about two hours high, here we found a mans skull and bones, and a bullet hole in the forehead, and A short distance from it found his cloathing, an oil coat and some shirts and 2 or 3 pounds of tobaco, a knife, a pair of gogles, ink stand and soforth. we think if indians killed him they would have taken his things, but the circumstance is unknown to us at present. it is 16 miles from any house or timber. every day brings with it something new, and the lord only knows what new discoverys we shall make tomorrow. traveling is pleasent when the weather is good and the company are in A good humour
April 29 we have traveled over a high rich roling prerrarie far better than Illinois and well waterd but no timber but a few scattering trees along the creek enough for the wandering Emegrant to make a fire, to warm themselves, and cook their dinner, but they cannot fence theire fields here and must pass over the rich land, and leave it behind for beasts of prey, and men as fierce and wild as they, for we have seen both the savage indians, and the wild wolf the inhabitants of this region. the time has been when Elk were plenty here, but have been scared off by the passing emegration we see some of their horns nearly every day. we have had to drive about A mile of[f] the road to camp this eve.
April 30th Sun. how calm comes on this holy day although we are traveling. there is a sensation in the looks and apearance of things, makes it seem diferent from another day to the reflecting mind we this eve came to the Nimehow [Nemaha] river. had to pay 50 cents a wagon for crossing on the new bridge. here is a new settlement of 18 families some just building their little cabin, and some have wintered here, and have not fenced any yet3 here is high roling rich land as was ever seen, with A strip of timber along the creek. we have seen about 20 wagons before us and herds of cattle bound for California we are now 100 miles from St. Joseph and the bridge keeper tells us that there is 10,000 head of cattle before us, and 100 and 18 wagons.
May the 1th we have come about 15 miles to day on account of it being rainy we have stoped about 3 oclock, for the night providence has formed this country delightful for the weary traveler. here it has the apearence of never ending prairie. still every day when we feel like stopping we find a branch of water, and A few trees surrounding it, and without both together we should be in a poor situation. there is about 1000 head of cattle in sight of us at this time & they remind me of the 50th psalm if ever there were cattle on a thousand hills, it must be now on these plains. there is no timber on them, and very hilly. we have paid our money for our cattle, and call them ours, but God says every beast of the forest is mine. and the cattle upon a thousand hills. I know all the fowls of the mountains, and the wild beasts of the forest are mine. If I were hungry I would not tell thee: for the world is mine, and all that is in it, but call upon me in time of trouble, and I will deliver the out of the hand of thy enemies.
May 2nd this is very cool morn froze ice over the pans of water have traveled about 20 miles to day, and seen a great many wagons and droves of cattle had to drive a mile off of the road to camp. passed over beautiful land as ever was seen but no timber.
May 3rd started soon this morn and when we got to the road there was too droves, one just before us, and the other behind we got between them and still remain so we came on about 3 miles onto big blue river, in the Nebraska territory. here is a boat, but the river being low we forded it. here is one white family. 35 miles from the last house and A postoffice, and store and here you can get a comon pie for 25 cents. we are passing along with 10 wagons in company, and all well, and are able to get out and look at the graves of others, that have found their last resting place along this road and disappointment was their doom. drove about a mile of the road to camp found A big spring deep enough to dip a bucket full of water and made quite a large creek below it
May 4th came about 15 miles to day saw 5 droves before us and A great many wagons. grass is not near as good as it was a week back. have again drove off of the road, on account of so many camping near the ford.
May 5th traveled to day about 20 miles, crossed otter creek and came about A mile and half off of the road found good water, and wood, and a delightful situation to stop, and grass pretty good.
Saturday May 6 have not started to day concluded to stop a day or two, to let our cattle rest & eat grass, and do up our washing and clean up our rooms, and put our beds out to sun and we are all well, and lively, with about 40 souls in company, and hope and pray this will be our good fortune all the way through our long pilgrimage. the men are repairing for their summers work, doctoring their Cattle greasing their wagons, and thinking they are doing the easyist way to winter their stock, driving them all the way to Oregon. to winter themselves on grass is easier than raise a crop and winter them here
May 7th have traveled about 22 miles to day and camped again on little blue. we got up it but not cross it there was about 30 wagons in sight at once, and about 1000 head of cattle there apeared to be a string A mile long. we are in the pawnee nation but have not seen an indian for a week and half
May 8th have traveled about 20 miles to day we have a new train in sight. those that were in sight yesterday, have gone on out of sight or fell back behind, and the roads are crowded with others have camped again on little blue, and a great many campers and droves are near us now. nothing of importance has occured to day. the roads are very hard and dusty.
May 9th have come about 16 miles and stopt again on little blue we dont cross it at all but go up it several days travel. the wind blew so hard and such a fog of dust its to bad to travel we stoped A while on acount of it, and our boys kill an antelope fish and squiril for supper.
May 10th came about 15 miles to day and there being no water for 25 miles we stoped have left the beautiful stream little blue, and expect to get to plat river to day.
May 11th came about 18 miles to one branch of plat river. drove our cattle over on the island and found grass better than we ever have before, but wood very scarce. found the man camp’t near us that killd an indian on big blue for driving of his cow. while he was shooting him, other indians drove of the cow and he got her no more. they came back and demanded the man but he was among the missing, they took the dead indian up on A poney and carried him away.
May 12th we have staid here all day and it is one long to be remembered it has been a windy cold rainy day, and cant get wood enough to make a good fire
Mr Cook joind us here with 5 wagons there is about 10 thousand head of cattle campt near us, and 100 wagons mostly bound for California our cattle mix together, and makes a great deal of trouble, we hear more noise than if we were in the bustle of town, the men hoy hoy hoying, and the cattle bawling, and the bells rattling oh what A time.
May 13th come 8 miles this morn and arived at fort kerney. come on about a mile past and campt for the night had to make out without any wood.
May Sunday 14 came on 15 miles and stopt on plat river without any wood are gethering up the chips, some have got on the horses and rode over the slough and fetched some little wood, which we made out with.
May 15 traveled about 18 miles to day, and campt again on plat river, but not a stick of timber nor brush on this shore, but an abundance on the other side. our folks went over with the team, and hauled over an old tree which will supply our want for fire. this is a very cool, winday, cloudy day.
May 16 have had a dreadful storm during the night of thunder wind and rain. the wind blew the tents down in the night, and have had to lay by to day. it is storming so this morn, that the womin cant come out and the men have had a great time getting breakfast, and was good enough to bring us some to the wagon. we thought our wagons would blow away. it has cleared of this afternoon in time to dry out things Ben Miller killed an antelope, and W turnham killd two wild geese. here it is flat prairie clear in too the river and not a stick on this side there is very plenty on the other side, and it looks well pleased to think we cant get to it. it stands close to the shore dressed in a brown petticoat, and green sack and vail with uplifted arms, and looks very pleasent, and is continualy noding to us but cant come over. our men go up to the shore and pull of their hat, and scrach their head, and wish it was over here. at last they mount their horses and find plenty down, so they fetch over all they can on the horses, and soon have a good fire to get supper, although it stands there still eternaly yet fording the river we can always fetch over enough to do us
May 17th come about 15 miles to day and stopt again on the barren plat river the 5th night we have campt on it. this is a very cool winday day, after the storm one of our horses has gave out and we have had to put oxen to the little wagon to day.
May 18th come about 20 miles to day and stopt as usual on the bare plat river. have gone over on horse back after wood and are thankful that we can get it that way, for trying to make out on wet chips without any wood is the last chance. we met 8 cover’d wagons of fur traders going to St Jo their wagons were marked Buffalo skins, Bear Skins, Tigar skins, Monkey skins, Wild Cat skins &c and the men looked like A wild cat themselves some of them were dress’d in greasy, raged leather coats and pants and looked as though come from the wild cat nation. we see antelope every day, but have not got but two yet. there is 4 or 5 small round islands close by us with a dozen or more pretty trees on them. we saw about 25 wagons at once going up on the other side of the river.
May 19th traveld about 18 miles to day, and campt on a slough, a great deal worse than plat river this is in sight of the river probely a mile and a half from the river and not A bush in sight or tree too meet us with their pleasent looks. we have to do the best we can with chips and have plenty of saluratus4 water, have met 3 two horse wagons going towards St. Joseph we have not seen a live Buffalo yet, but see 20 heads and carcases every day, but are scared of out of sight by the passing croud along the road. here is a flat level barren river bottom 2 and 3 miles wide from the river to the range of bluffs. we saw some small cedar groves in the bluffs to day for the first and the boys kill’d a young kioto [coyote] wolf with the dogs.
May 20th came about 13 miles to day and crosst plat river. it was about a mile wide, and very shallow with gravel bottom it is uncertain whether any person ever saw the bottom. it is so muddy and runs swift this is the 7th night we have campt on it, but the trees we admired so much on this side have all disappeared at our presence, and we are again left out of sight of timber and nothing to burn but the chips, and few wooden chips that we found over the river.
May 21st Sunday morn comes on very pleasant and serene, and our home meadow lark, with the dew upon her breast has come before sunup to charm us with her songs and seems to be welcoming on the day of rest and says, yes my native land I love thee, and I love to visit the stranger and welcome him to our soil. come about 18 miles to day, and campt again on north plat, and not A stick of timber in sight on neither side of the river, and chips rather scarce, but as the old saying is misery loves company, we discover that we are far from being alone for the other side of the river is stuck full of wagons and stock, and they are in the same situation, but we all keep up good cheer, and trust to provedence for plenty of wood soon we are yet in the pawnee and soo nation but have not seen one and have not the least uneasyness. our lives the holy angels keep, From every hostile power, and un[con]cerned we sweetly sleep, as Adam in his bower.
May 22 a short time after starting this morn the river bottom come to A point, and the bluffs come into the river, and the road turn’d upon the high land until we come down into the bottom it is now about A mile and A half wide to the river we have drove about 18 miles to day, and stopt again on plat river, and see 26 wagons on the other side of the river have not seen a tree to day. It dont appear no was we shall ever again, and we have nothing to burn but the rotten manna that fell on the ground but we all take it patient without a murmer, and are glad that we are all alive, and well I suppose and dont have to murmer for water for this is the 9th night we have tented on platt river.
May 23 Tuesday have come about 18 miles to day after a hard days travel up hill and down and through deep sand passed by 3 or 4 springs and plenty of Cedar wood to burn right under the bluff about A mile from the river. we see a great many going upon the other side of the river and look like they were level with the river
May 24 have laid by to day and about 10 families of us have washed out of the spring. there has been about 50 Cedar trees, two and 3 foot over cut down here and burnt up for the travelers fire, and only one tree standing. we have chip’t plenty of the old stumps we were highly honored to day by 5 sious visitors they come up and shook hands with us, and lookd very innocent, we gave them some thing to eat and they apeared well pleased. there has 6 hundred collected near here going to war with the pawnees.
May 25 there was 4 or 5 yoke of our oxen gone this morning, and we thought the indians had got them, but was mistaken, and found them 6 or 7 miles back. have not gaurded them one night yet see about 40 wagons passing up river on the other side and have not seen a stick of timber over there for several days the bluffs are close to the river over there. Mr Cook wounded a wolf and the dogs caught him. we came on abot 10 oclock came through ash holler. it has its proper name, on two accounts, the high rocks and bluffs on each side of the road look very ashy, and the ashy sand is very deep in the road, and there has been a good many ash trees down in the hollow but are most all cut down to burn. on the mouth near here is a traders tent. they are buying up give up cattle for a trifle and sell their things at 5 prices whiskey was 4 dollars per gallon and other things in proportion. here is an island out in the river with about 2 dozen cedar trees and another with two large cedar trees a curiosity to see them in the river, and the craggy bluffs to day are a curiosity with hundreds of little cedars over them. we caught up with the 6 hundred indians who moved this morning before us, and such another move as it was I have counted a hundred and 50 ponys that they have moved on, and draged their wigwams with. the road is skrach’d all to pieces with their poles we came on too their city which they have built to day they have about 50 wigwams made of poles set up tent fashion and are fastened together about the middle of the pole the others put sticks up as below for an ornament, and the lower part are wraped round neat with buffalo skins, some come a good way to meet us and came right up and gave their hands with their paper, which recommended
[Added note:] still on platt Nathan B left to day
them to be a kind good sious indians, belonging to the osage band and would be glad to get bread and meat coffee or sugar or any thing to eat. another went by the name of french grry [?] and they were beging for all would be glad of a few eatables, and when we got against their town probably a 100 yards off the road, and big and little old and young come runing every direction, with their old blankets and taglocksa flying, some had painted faces and ornamented with rings and beeds. some handed us beads and wanted something for them. some of the children got a streing of beads for A biscuit, and got a pair of mockesons for an ox bow they got a little something to eat among us, but we cant afford to feed them much two squaws had their papooses and they ran along with us a good ways. have met two too horse wagons today we are now within 125 miles of fort Larama today sold two head of give out cattle for 4 dollars a drove of mules campt near us to night. have come about 15 miles to day
May 25 Bitman left Mr Cook this morning before we got ready to start the indians began to come and those that come before we cleard the table away we gave their breakfast, and here come the whole 6 hundred moving their tents, they lash their poles on each side of poney like shafts and carry their other plunder on the back end of them draging on the ground and we saw 29 dogs with shafts hauling a 6 galon keg and dressd buffalo skins, their tent covers. their teams went on a head of us and the men squaws and papoos and children of all sizes were all among us and our children swapt bread for a good many strings of beads. we struck in behind them it soon began to rain and first we knew they had built their houses in twenty minutes and was the busyest people you ever saw turning out their horses and gethering weeds to burn, and we have been very much pestered with them all day, and have passd about 50 other lodges, and have tried to get beyond them to not be pesterd with them to night but as soon as we stopt they have come a swarm of them. we have traveld about 15 miles to day and campt again on platt. they are an innocent harmles being, and wont touch a thing that dont belong to them all they want is something to eat
May 26. have traveld about 18 miles to day and stopt again on platt. 4 or 5 of them staid until after dark to get supper, and took our frying pan, and to our surprise have not seen one to day. there is about 40 wagons in sight of us now, with droves of cattle we have stopt against the lone tower. it is a high clayey mound and square off around the sides, and in immagination resembles and old anchaint castle or fort and there is no other mound near it, and are in sight of chimney rock can see the chimney. it looks like a pole stuck in the ground
May 27 have laid by to day on acount of rain and nothing particular has occured we have pass the day very cheerfully away. I have spent it in writing to our friends. others have spent it in the tents, and wagons, in social chit chat, and never started to be scared by the Elephant. we expected to see him, and have not been disapointed.
May 28 came about 18 miles to day and pitch’t our tent on the river. afternoon got against chimney rock. it is a high bare mound with a chimney on the middle here is a french traders tent, and an indian wigwam with a good looking white man, and an ugly black squaw for a wife and two children. she wore an old blue callico dress, and her old blue blanket wrapt arround her like another indians and sat on the ground bareheaded against her tent, and another young squaw was with her fair skin’d husband sat down with her, and the yellow babes played on both of them. the indians and work are at perfect peace with each other. they do not know a thing more about work than the Buffalo wolf and antelope that lives among them
May 30th soon after starting this morn, we left the river, to let the proud Scotts bluffs go between us and the river passt two french traders cabins and 8 indian Lodges tented with them
May 29 have drove a mile and A half of off the road and campt up in a wall’d in hollow, with the most curious bluffs clay built and towers and peaks with their sides covered with cedar. here we had A severe hail storm, and here we found a dead indian, reared up on a scaffold, as far towards heaven as they could get him on a scaffold
May 30th came on to platt river again and passt a traders tent of french an[d] indians. a good looking white man with A black squaw for a bosom companion.
May 31 past three trading post to day, and the indians more than A few. stopt half way to the river and get water out of a spring. the half starved indians gethered around us, and wanted to swap mocosons and beads for bread and we got some met to day 6 large covered wagons loaded with fur
June 2nd we laid by to day to get blacksmiths work done. it has been one of the windyest days ever bloud, and A hail, and thunder storm at night. 4 indian graves were put up near us, and the hungry indians has been with us all day. I gave them a quart of gravy that was left and some scraps of bread, and they scraped it into a sack. A leather one I should suppose. we threw the dogs some dirty crumbs, and they drove them away, and picked them up, and they went all around the camp and picked up the bacon rines we threw away.
June 3rd come on to day about [blank] miles, and here was 7 or 8 log huts and a bakery and store, and whites and indians all together here was flour for sale for 20 dollars per sack, not A 100 weight in them and bread for 29 cents per pound. Mr Sutton said before he would give that he would live on dumplins, and bread was 25 cents per pound here was two more dead Indians dress in red, and sent to heaven. We call’d at Larama and left A number of letters, came 7 or 8 miles past, and stopt on plat river good news and glad tidings to us once more. we have plenty of wood again, we paid 25 cents apiece for each wagon crossing on Larama fork of plat. a trading post at the bridge.
Sun[da]y June 4 have traveld about 15 miles to day past A traders post and about 20 indians wigwams with them. have commenced climbing the rocky mountains pine and Cedar are thick on them saw snow to day on Larama peak have campt among the hills near a spring
Mon June 5 came about 18 miles to day, and have arrived again on plat river after forsakeing it two nights. we have got home again. we met 7 mormon wagons to day and 20 mormons with them. they have started to go out over the world, to proclaim the new salvation to wretched fallen man. we have traveld over the black hills the last too days. To look at them, they appear as thought they never could be crossed, but we have Beautiful natural roads, and the pioneers of these western mountains deserve great credit, for selecting such good places for a road. one of the company oxen got a horn knocked of to day. saw only A few indians to day.
Tuesday June 6 come about 12 miles to day. have past a good many indians came past a train that was laying by, on account of one of their men being wounded by an indian the day before. have stopt on creek where there is plenty of wood and water.
Wednesday June 7 came about 18 miles to day and campt on A creek where there is plenty of wood and water past a town of indians and whites. crosst plumb creek saw quite a stir among indians moving and so forth. are crossing red hills to day.
Thursday June 8 come about 16 miles to day and campt on a creek in the mountains have crosst two or three creeks in the hills to day and passt a trading post, but have not seen any indians to day. was about 40 wagons in sight to day.
Fryday June 9th have traveld about 15 miles to day, and got home again at night on plat river. the river is got to be quite small, and is much deeper than it was at first. we see several large trains going up on the other side. have past A trading post and an indian wigwam with them here we sold two lame cows for 15 dollars a piece, and saw here at Deer creek about 50 indian ponys two of our company bought one at 40 dollars piece. saw snow to day on the mountains, after traveling about 80 miles over the rocky black hills, we have left them to day to travel again up the level plat river. we have plenty of good neighbours, and friends all along this broad road, and good health and luck attend us this far on our pilgrimage, and heaven and the holy angels are interceding in our behalf we believe, and are saving us out the hands of the enemy, that are on every side of us
Saturday June 10 came about 14 miles to day and campt on a branch between the mountains and the river have seen snow all day on the sides of the mountains. have past a traders station to day and an indian Lodge with it saw 23 freight wagons bound for salt lake and 40 men. no dought but the most of them understand the mysteries of mormanism have past through the mill, there is a great croud of emegration
Sunday June 11th came about 12 miles to day and stopt again on the north side of platt river. have cross’t to day on the bridge and paid 5 dollars per wagon and 5 cents per head for stock no doubt they have made 500 dollars to day. there was a traders station, and 6 indian Lodges with them. they had plenty of buffalo meat drying out in the sun. have seen snow all day on the hills near us. have no wood to night and are picking up the dry chips, and sage
Mon’y June 12th come on about 8 miles and stopt to day for the last time we ever expect too on platt river we was told that it was 18 miles to the next water and it was two hard A drive for us, and our cattle need rest, and the grass is very poor, and our undertaking requires patience. the roads on both sides of the river have left it here, and we have to take over the hills, and wory along to this side of Jordon, and try to possess the good land which we believe is reserved for us and our children, for John the son of Nun has been there and James the son of John has searched out the land.5 they went upon the mountains, and came into the vallys, and they saw we must go up and possess the good land, for it is not like the land of Egypt, but it is A land of hills and vallys and watered with springs from the mountains, and flows with milk and butter, and an abundance of green grass for our cattle so John, and James, the son of John returned to their own land and told the good news that they had found a good and pleasent land and had come for their families, and friends to go with them, to enjoy the health and mild climate of that far land that is set before us. but it is away yonder over the rocky mountains, and through the great wilderness, and acrosst wide spread deserts, but come on never fear, be not afraid of the face of man, for God says I will be with you, and lead them that trust in me safe through! and charge John, and James his son. encourage them and strengthen them and speak comforting words to them, and they shall go before to lead you on the right way.
Tuesday June 13th have come about 18 miles to day. bid our lov’d friend platt river a final farewell this morning after camping nearly every night on it for a month, and are again left intirely out of sight of timber, and have to make out on sage past two traders tents and an indian Lodge with them. our company have to day killed the only buffalo we have seen came to the willow spring and filld our vessels with water. here was a thief shot in the back dead, while on a stolen horse by the owner in pursuit of him there was so many on chase they shot 18 balls in him [the buffalo] so we have plenty of fresh beef for supper all around the camp of a remnent of isreal. our Beards town friends W Dunbar and Treadway caught up with us yesterday, and have pitched their tents near us to night and there is about A 1000 head of cattle herded near us to night and there has no plauge [plague] come a near us, and we have not yet seen nothing terrible on our journey
Wednesday June 14 came about 16 miles to day after two days travel from platt river. we have arrived at sweet water river. Just after noon to day as we were traveling along the road we had A severe thunder storm, and hard rain, and hail with wind here is independent Rock, a curiosity different from all others we have seen, and standing out by itself independent of all others, here is stationed a white trader as usual with an indians wigwam with them have passed three traders to day still see snow on the side of the mountains, and it is as cold all along here as march in Illinois. paid 50 cents A wagon for crossing on A bridge here a squatter told us, that being Mr Sutton belong’d to the same society he did, he would tell us where there was good grass just across’t the bridge, and he would not charge anything for the horse wagon, and would furnish us wood to burn so acording to his kind directions we drove acrosst the bridge and pitched our tents, where there was much sweet water, and was all rejoicing at the kindness of the stranger and about a dosen of them went back after some wood and he charged them 25 cents apeice. they paid him the money, and came back in A high gale of laughter at the trick that had been played on them. some of the brethren of the I.O. of O F. went to visit him, and try his grit, and found out that he did not know the mystery, and I dont beleive any man of A good principle will live here with the indians, and their smoky Buffalo skin wigwams with a slick greasy hole to slip in at, like a wolf, built with them
Thursday June 15th left the bridge soon this morn with the hospitable stranger, and his venomous looking Snake indians. here are the very high rocky mountains on each side of us with now and then little cedars in the crevass’s and on one side the tops nearly covered with snow which looks as though it fell yesterday. Yet the Lord of heaven and earth has made this part of the earth to be crossd, and has left a space for good roads, and sometime just room enough for A good road with the craggy cliffs on each side of us, and so many names inscribed in the rocks, as though all that crosst the plains had left their names on record behind them, within 3 or 4 miles of the bridge, we came to what is called the Devils gate. the high mountains like the Red Sea, had fled back, not to let the Isrealites pass through, but to let sweet water river run through. the high wall on each side were strait down as the side of a stone house and the river took such a horse shoe turn that the visiter could not get within a 100 yards of it, without ascending the mountain and looking down, or crossing the river, and looking through the sides there is more to be seen on this wide road, to remind us of the mysteries of providenc than in all our lives before. God moves in A mysterious way His wonders to perform. He plants his footsteps in the sea. He rides upon the storm.6 here was two indians Lodges, and 7 or 8 little cabins of traders, and numbers of half indian children. have came about 18 miles to day and campt for the night at the foot of the rock mount, and have sweet water to make use of. we have for years past heard of the rocky mountains but unexpectedly the time has arrived, when we can look at them for ourselves and can see that they are made of soled rock, and heaps upon heaps of rocks, and not earth as the mountains were in our own land. in some places the pines and cedars grew large enough to build there little cabins that these french and indians traders reside in. these settlers do not pretend to raise a thing, not even a garden. one thing the land seems too poor to support any growth. Another one gentleman told us, it was useless to try, as there would be an hundred red indians to every ear of corn, and they would sit down by it until it got into roasting ears, and then fight who should have it. here they depend on the buffalo and bear, and what is wagond here A 1000 miles or more. this is a very cold windy rainy evening but one blessing has attended us this cold eve, we have plenty of Cedar wood to burn, from the sides of the mountains of Lebenon. these roads are infested with theives and robers watching for good oppertunity to take Emegrant cattle and horses. the indians are far better than whites in any estimation.
Friday June 16th have traveld about 16 miles to day and campt on sweet water. no wood here we passt two traders tents to day. one told us that 60 wagons had passt this forenoon. grass is very poor short and dry
Satey June 17 were detained late this morning on account of Wm Turnham and Wm Marlet leaving us, and having to divide the cattle. Benjamin Miller left Marlet and came with us to day. The tops of wind river mountains are covered with snow and half way down the sides, and the weather is cold we had to drive late and then stop without wood and water half a mile of and grass very poor.
Sunday June 18th drove on about 5 miles to a ford on sweet water. here met one of our neighbours on his way home from oregon and glad to hear of each others whereabouts. we stopt with him two or three hours and sent a letter back to Illinois came on about 6 miles and camp for the night on sweet water no wood have to make out with sage and chips.
Monday June 19 have laid by to day on sweet water to rest our stock and wash some Mr Cook kill’d an antelope, there was as many as 60 wagons passd us a great crowd passing all the time it has been A cold windy showery day
Tuesday June 20th. began to climb the mountains soon after we started, and they were the rockyest ones we have seen yet. the road is crowded as far as we can see both ways have met 10 or a dosen Morman wagons returning back with their families and told the Californians they were a going to the City of distruction we have met 30 or 40 pack mules loaded with men women and children, and provisions returning back from Oregon. they said the winters was so cold, and it was so sickly, and money so scarce that they wanted to be found getting away. we have been nearly smother’d in dust to day, and it seems very good to get out of the croud. we have drove about a mile of off the road, and campt again on sweet water, and plenty of snow on the bank of the creek 4 feet deep and great peaks of mountains of snow just before us. the youngsters are threatening snow balling each other. no wonder we have been nearly freesing to day.
Wed’y June 21 have come about 15 miles to day and campt again on sweet water. the weather has moderated very much. it is quite pleasent this eve. we have passed a trader and blacksmith shop to day and are in sight of an indian town. they are begining to come, the snow mountains, like the cloud by day have followed us 4 or 5 days and rest before us at night they are much nearer than they were last night this is the 7th night we have tented on sweet water saw two new graves to day for the first Mr. Ebbs died on the 16th of June aged 52 are in sight of a large indian village. they have gethered around us as thick as musquetoes have fetched antelope dress skins mockesons and beads to swap for something to eat
June 22nd have traveld about 15 miles to day and stoped without wood and water. passt two traders and a blacksmiths shop to day
June 23 one of Jo Carter oxen died of murrin [murrain: anthrax] this morn left him on dry sandy the boys have killed several sage hens and mountain rabits and ground squirils to day. have campt to night on big sandy
June 24 one of Missouri Cooks horses was dead this morn kill’d itself with the rope that was around its neck Newmyer left us this morn for California came on and camped again on sandy in a very pretty place
Sunday June 25th came from big sandy to green river 16 miles and have found a pretty place of wood and water. we have had as dusty a time as any person ever saw thought we should smother, and were obliged to stop in the road, untill the gale passed away some, that we could see the road.
Monday June 26 came on about A half mile this morning to the ferrey. here is quite A town 5 or 6 cabins, and 4 or 5 stores and one indian wigwam7 we have to pay 4 dollars per wagon, and 50 cents a head for horses crossing. the river is high whiskey is cheap enough here to get drunk on. have heard of several in that kind of A fix the stuff is only A dollar A pint. here we have sold a yoke of oxen for 55 dollars. have come 4 or 5 miles past and campt on again on green river.
Tuesday June 27 have traveled about 20 miles to day through wind and dust. to have grass for our stock we have stopt A mile from water. the boys have carried it in kegs we are on the bear river mountains. their sides are covered with snow
Wednesday June 28 have come about 12 miles to day and campt in the valey of the bear river mountains, with plenty of wood and water and our situation is not deplorable have passed a blacksmiths shop to day. the mountains are a hard road to travel
Thursday June 29 have traveld about 12 miles to day over the highest mountains, and the roughest ones we have passt yet, and have stopt for the night in the valey on the hams fork of green river. the indians and their little ones have honored us with A visit they are Shawnee [Shoshones?] are poorer and meaner dressed than the soos and are not ornamental with beads as they
Friday June 30 soon after starting this morning began to ascend the mountain and after reaching the top, we stopt and took a saw Mrs Lucinda Jacksons grave on the 29 view down into the valey below. saw plenty of fir trees, and snow on the sides. this was not mount Pisgah, for we did not see that delightful land that flows with milk honey so we have to go on untill we come to that good land if not like Moses are not permited to go there, but like him have to stop and lay down our lives on the side of Jordon, as hundreds have but probely some of us like Caleb and Joshua will live to get to the end of the race, and see what we are at all this trouble for, and whether it is worth all the vexation and difficulties and suffering of man and beast, cold and storms of dust rian and hail that we have to worry through. here is a good spring on top of the mountain, and here is a grave, and A great many camp upon the mountain we have come about 13 miles to day and campt on bear river mountain near a grove of thick fir timber, and A great spring not far distant
Sat July 1th soon after we started we passed through A fir grove of 80 acres and came down the worst mountains that was ever seen or read of by any one that never crossed them here man and beast meet with the same fate. yonder is a grave, of one who spent their last days, in Jolting over the rock, and Jumping off places through the mountains. there lies a dead ox who have lost their lives in trying to drag people across the plains. they are now seen on top of the mountain, and down in the valey every day we came on 10 or 12 miles, and campt on a branch of Bear river. the mountains on each side of us they say were A mile high, and to steep to ascend on the other side next to us. here we had to pay 1 dollar a piece for wagons for crossing on a bridge where it has always been forded. here was indians and A white man living with A squaw for a wife
Sunday July 2nd at the start this morning we had to pay A dollar per wagon for crossing, on a bridge across a slough of bear river, and in 5 or 6 miles travel we came to a little bridge across a mud hole, and an indian standing by, wanting a dime per wagon. he got it without a word, and we come on 5 or 6 miles more, and campt for the night on a fork of bear river, have caught some fish in this river. as soon as we stoped were were attack’d with the most savage warlike enemy and they gave us the alarm by the sound of their horn, and they had prepared themselves, and were well armed with a long sharp spear to meet us for war, and as soon as we met there was heavey battles fought, but on our side there was some blood shed it is true, but no lives taken, but on the enemys side hundreds kill’d and wounded but none missed. they were of the Musqueto tribe, and well known the world over.
July 3 came about 20 miles to day over the longest and roughest mountain we have passed yet and came down to bear river again campt on A small branch that runs swift from the mountain have good grass but no wood of consequence. paid 2 dollars per wagon for crossing on bridge across a fork of bear river. see snow all the time on the mountains. have warm days and cold nights. here comes on the Glorious 4th of July and a beautiful still, clear, serene and peaceable morning it is, and all nature apears to smile freedom. With every benevelent reason… God spreads out the bright summer sky. And just in the midst of the season, He sends us the fourth of July, Then up with the voice of Thanksgiving, To God, the great giver on high, And while in the land of the living, Still honor the forth of July, although we are 1500 miles from our native land, and it has been A very comfortable day with us, good health and luck attend us. we have crossed several fine gravel bottom branches, that come from the mountains and came about 14 miles, and campt near the creek with very good grass, and scarcely any wood. some little bunches of green willow along the creek.
Hail the day that bought our freedom,
Bought with our forefathers blood
Lo! their happy sons and daughters,
On this glad and welcome day
By the springs of mountain waters,
O’er the hills and valleys stray
Independence then shall clear,
Our path to heaven
July 5th this morn the weeds and bushes were frose stiff, and plenty of snow in sight on the mountains the days are very warm, and the night cold enough for 4 blankets. have come about 14 miles to day and campt near Soda springs on A creek and about half mile from plenty of Cedar the boys have all gone for some to get their supper. we left one of our calves to day nearly dead of murren [murrain]
July thursday 6 came on to the springs calld and took a look at them. there was some of the mistery about them. here was a blacksmiths shop, and two or 3 traders, we enquired about flour. they had none to sell, but when they had they sold for 26 dollars per 100. whiskey was 2 dollar and A half A pint, cheese 50 cents A pound. we did not spend a dime with them, nor hardly ever do. good looking whites, living with the indians, should not be noticed here we left bear river after camping on it 4 or 5 nights went down it all the time we came about 3 miles from the springs and here the road turned of for California. and we were happyly released from a great croud that have hindered us from many a mile, crowding along before and behind here we had to part with two good hands, that started for Calefornia. we were all loth to part with each other but the best of friends must part, such is life. what a great change in roads. now the gras is near two feet high on each side of the road and not trampt down with stock. there is but few going to oregon we came on about 16 miles and campt on a small creek. no wood but grass like a timothy patch it has been a cold day.
July Friday 7 this morn ice was an inch thick around, the roamingites8 5 quilts and was none to much cover, and it has not got warm yet at noon. came to a little bridge at noon and paid a dollar for crossing, and came up and down mountains all this afternoon, and have campt on a spring branch, with pretty fir trees near us, dry and green
July 8th had a late start this morning, as it was to cold to leave our warm beds. the further we go the colder it is. plenty of ice in our buckets one of our cows gave out last eve, and we had to leave it a mile behind. went back after it, and it was dead. we have now 11 less than we started with. nothing particular has occured to day we have got into snake river valey and have traveld about 14 miles through dust and campt on a branch of water without wood
Sunday July 9th come on 8 miles to a bridge across Port Neff paid 50 cents a wagon for crossing and noond just across. here is a store, and plenty of french and indians. Just as we were ready to start, M r Cook got the axeltree of his wagon broke, and we have to stop. he has gone 7 miles to fort hall to get one
July 11th [10th?] got a new axeltree against noon and started, and left Port Neff [Portneuf] with the indians and their set of whites and came about 12 miles, through a thick dust, and campt on a dusty hill with a creek at the foot of it, and was nearly devoured with the most uncivilised tribe of Musquetoes we ever met with
July 11th we have traveld about 15 miles to day down snake river stopt at a spring and noon’d. here two indians met us with some fish. we gave them some bread and got them. come on to the falls and campt for the night, among the sage. grass scarce, caught some fish here
July 12th this is calld the american falls deriving its name from 4 unfortunate americans being sucked in to them in a boat and went over, and only one escaped alive to tell the dreadful tale. it is a cliff’t of rocks across the river. this is a rough road to travel, some very steep ravines. Mr. Chapman caught up with us to day moving to Salem Oregon. the mountains here are covered with Cedar, which look beautiful to us after spending weeks with out seeing trees of any kind our fire is made of sage. caught fish enough at noon for our supper to night [in margin:] one of T Cooks oxen died this morning of murren [murrain]
Thursday July 13th soon after we started this morn crossed fall creek and come through some deep hollows, with Juniper trees on each side of the road and came down to Raft River at noon. crossed it and carell’d for the night on this side. as it is 15 miles to water, it is two long A drive for the afternoon here is nothing to burn but sage, and that scarce here come A great company of indian packers and campt near us going to fort hall 3 fine dresst squaws with their pappooses come to take a look at us. the boys kill’d 5 mountain rabits and some fish this evening. the weather is fine, and our healths are comfortable and our case is not as bad near as it might be
July 4th came the 15 miles stretch about the middle of the afternoon found it to be a rough road, very rockey, and dusty. kill’d several rabits along the road to day. have stopt at the march springs and campt for the night in A pretty place with good water and grass. the boys have killd 11 rabits one duck and a snipe this eve
July 15th starting soon this morning came on about 6 miles, and found Frances Kimballs grave, close by the road. on a high raise of ground, and about one 100 years [yards?] from it at the foot of the hill is a neat little branch of water. we could not help feeling a sympathy for our Neighbours, that were in distress here at the loss of their youngest child, while we were in health and prosperity. the troubles are great enough on this road, and have all the good luck we possibly could, Mary Spencer was buryed with her in 1853. we have crosst two creeks to day. one is goose creek came about 20 miles across a baron country. scarcely any thing but sage on it have come to snake river and campt for the night, with plenty of drift wood to burn, and pretty good grass. the boys have kill’d some rabits 8 sage hens, and fish this evening. Saturday after sun down
Sunday July 16th came abut 12 miles and noon’d on pool creek. here has been a great place for camping and here are two graves buryed in 52 come to snake river two or 3 miles back, and the banks were so steep we could not water our stock, and were obliged to come on further. traveld about 20 miles to day and campt on rock creek good water and pretty good grass
Mon’y July 17 this rock creek was named right as its natural production is rock, and sage. it will produce 200,000 bushels of rocks to the acre some say they cant think what this part of the world was ever made for, but thank the Lord it is no mystery to me, for I can see God in all around us. he had made this foundation, for the inhabitants of earth to pass from one part of the world, to the other, and he has put on it fine creeks of water, that they can drink every day whenever they feel like it we have never missed A day yet but we have come to a river branch or spring. it is call’d the plains or desert, but we have never failed of having fire enough, to cook our meal the sage was put there to make our fire, and we are thankful it is there, for many A time we should have to go hungry without it. we came about 8 miles this morning and noon’d at rock creek. here is 8 wagons of emegrants, the first we have seen for four days. this country for a few days travel has formerly been famous for indians robing and killing people, but good luck to us we have not seen one for several days. we came on about 7 miles, and campt for the night on rock creek. some little grass close to the creek, and plenty of dry willow to burn, but the highest bank we ever saw to any creek, and on the opesite side, a high rock wall strait down. Mr Chamberlain caught up with us this morning with his drove of sheep about 4 days ago some indians in ambush shot 3 arrows in one sheep he saw the sheep jump but did not understand the cause at first, and did not stop to search as he was behind and not around but they stole about 40 head that night and kept them
Tuesy July 18th left rock creek soon this morning but did not leave all the rocks with it. wish we had traveld nearly all day in sight of snake river we drove on to the bank about 11 oclock took of our teams to take down to water and were obliged to give it out as the bank was two steep and rocky to go down. some said it was more than a mile from the bank down to the water, so we came on nearly smothered in dust untill the middle of the afternoon, and found A place where we could water our cattle. it was about a half mile down to the water here J Cook left one of his calves, it went down to drink, and was too weak to return. we then drove on 3 or 4 miles and campt for the night on snake river, grass scarce, but we are glad to get any. the banks of the river are low here, unexpectedly two indians come to visit us. we got some small fish of them, and gave them supper. they clasp’t their hands and looked up toward heaven, as if to thank the great Spirit for their supper. they said good bye and started.
Wed. July 19th. came about 7 or 8 miles this morning and crossed Clark river the bank on the oposite side was very miry. had to double teams to most of the ox wagons, and our horses to the little wagon mired down, and wallow’d in the mud onhitched them, and had some trouble to get them out. hich’t 3 yoke of cattle to it and it run out easy all got over, and noon’d on a spot of pretty good grass here is a high precipice with torronts of water runing out of the top, resembling the rock that Moses split, but it is not the same, for Snake river runs at the foot of it. it is on the oposite side from us, and the water runs into the bank about half way down. we cant comprehend the amazing sights that we see. we can only look and medetate that mysterious are the ways of providence, past finding out. who can know them. we have concluded to stay here until morn as it will take so long to fery over and get to grass and old indian has fetched us 4 or 5 dozen fish we gave him his supper, a shirt and some old clothes and got them Mr Lockwood came to go with Jo Carter to day
Thursday July 20th came on 5 miles to the ferry have to pay 4 dollars per wagon, and swim over the cattle we can go down on either side but on acount of having grass and water for our cattle while there is scarcely any on this side. some of our neighbours and acquaintences have left us, and gone on this side, rather than to pay the ferriage. I must not forget to mention about the springs we saw, running out of the rocks, soon after starting this morning. they pour’d out of the cliff about half way down and run into the river. it looked to me as it was place’d there to shew us that water can run out of A rock. the indians swam the river several times, taking with them horses and cattle we all got safe over about 2 o’Clock and came on about 5 miles and stopt for the night grass is X.L.NT and our stock is well pleased. they have a change of diet, while we have not Thomas Cook bought a yoke of fine large oxen to day for A 100 dollars. several indians have followed us to our camp ground and help’t drive the cattle. those that swum our cattle over we give them a shirt apiece, and some thing to eat. Just at dark there was 6 come, and one squaw and unsaddled their horses, and turned them out on the grass, and staid all night with us. we did not wish to insult them, and we got along fine. I suppose it was A visit of friendship as the[y] never fail of visiting the emegrants and are a great deal more enlighten’d & civilised than they formerly have been by seeing so many whites and the most of them have a shirt on or some thing the emegrant has give them, and they are not as dangerous, but think more of the whites than in times past
Fri July 21th several more indians come to see us before breakfast this morn. we could not feed them all much. we started early and left them all on the ground. come up a long rough rocky mountain and very sandy road about 5 miles come to one of the worst creeks we have ever crosst yet. one of Mr Chapmans wagons turned over in the creek and the bed came off and wet all that was in it. we call it Canyon creek. the men waded nearly to their arms to roll the large rocks out of the road, and had to put their heads under to do it. about a dosen of them waded each side of wagon escorting it across and all got safe over the water ran into the wagon beds some. we were detain’d about two hours getting over. we then noon’d on the other bank and had to drive 12 miles to water the afternoon, and did not make it untill after dark. we were all so tired, and saw no sage near to make a fire. we concluded to go to bed without any supper and did so for the first time since on our journey. we come to a creek we call flag creek and good grass
Saturday July 22nd we all eat about as much again this morn for going without supper we come to a cold spring soon after starting this morning, and fill’d our vessel with water. have been going up hill and down, over rocks, and acros’t the baren desert and noon where we can water our stock on dry rocky creek with now and then a pond of water we name the creeks ourselves as we go, as there is no one in the company has went this way before, or knows the name of them. have come about 16 miles to day and campt on skin flint. some grass here, it has been very hot and sultry to day. one of our cows gave out & others are very near it hear is a killing time on wagons and team. the wagons are broke down banging over the rocks and mountains, and the cattle give out worying over the mountains, and are left to die.
Sunday July 23 started soon this morn and came up a hill about two miles long and A good part of the way very rocky cross’d one creek come on to another spring creek about noon, and will stop for the night our cow that give out yesterday could not be found dead nor alive this morning. we refited our wagons and left a good many things to lighten our load we would be hapy to have at home. Mr Chapmans train campt near us to night. misery loves company have good water, wood, and grass. all but the scent from dead cattle, is very pleasant
Mony July 24 came up on a very rocky hill this morning at the start and a good part of the way is very Rocky. come on about 8 miles to grass and water and noon’d at a grave yard where there is 10 died August 1852 here is the grave of Mary Elen Orchard, great has been the suffering of man, and beast, at this place. we cant tell where it is, as there is no one in company has ever been here before. we cross’d snake river at A new ferry, and came a new cut off, with one of the most wretched roads any person ever traveld and we dont know where we will come to, but expect to strike the river soon. we are now on Grasshoper creek, on the desert of death, and dispair. the grasshopers are as thick here on the grass and in the air as a snow storm. one of our yearlings has died here in sight since we stopt. we come on to willow creek and stopt for the night. one of our largest and best oxen died to day, and just before he stopt he ran into the team, as it was going, at the place where he has worked 4 months. it was hard work to get him out just to have it said that he died at his post, making 3 that has died in two days. one of Mr Chapman died at the same time. they make it 14 we have lost since we started. the country is so poor the indians are ashamed to show themselves on it. have not seen one for 5 days, and the only game are snakes, Lizards & the big crickets, and grass hopers here are two graves Mr Chapmans said they would not come until the cool of the eve, and one of their wagons turnd over. it broke the coupling pole it detaind them until morning
Tuesday July 25 laid by here until afternoon and done a big washing, a beautiful spring branch and soft water to wash. come on about 8 miles and tented for the night. here is a good spring and good grass we were nearly smotherd in dust. could not see the next wagon to us. the soil is a kind of ashy sand, and bunches of sage thick on it, and as clean as though it was hoe’d
Wed July 26 come on about 5 miles, and call’d, and looked, and felt of the hot springs here was 15 or 16 springs, smokeing and boiling up out of the ground, and nearly boiling hot. A good deal to hot to go to washing clothes in, and little branches of hot water, runing from them. we have nothing to say, as we cant understand the cause, and dont know from whence they come nor what fire is heating the water. saw 5 graves altogether this morning, 2 or 3 miles this side of the hot springs was a grave by the side of the road had been dug out by the wild animals. saw the bones and clothing. he died in August 52 could not make out the name here many a one in the bloom of youth has met with an untimely death, by leaving friends and home, to die on the plains, and spend their last hours in jolting over a rocky road as we have to day we noon’d on a spring branch, and here are 7 graves all in roe, and close by them lays a dead ox looks as though it died last night. came on about 10 miles afternoon and campt on rock river a pretty gravel bottom creek with good grass here was two clever looking indians with some little fish to sell. we gave them some bread and got them so we had fish for supper, and sage hens for breakfast this morning
Thursday July 27th one of the good indians come soon this morn and was in A great way to tell us something. the way we understood him was by his signs and motions that some of the indians had stole a horse from the train that had gone on, and the indian had gone on with the horse we came on 3 or 4 miles, and met Mr Chapman coming back, and said the indians had stole one of his horses two of our men saw the indian on him going off, and James Sutton has gone on with him to try to get the horse. we are noon’d at a spring among the hills. had to leave another of our oxen to die this morning, and our team part of it is about to give out, as it is half cows come on about 6 miles, and caught up with Mr Chapmans chain of 8 wagons, and we all campt close together in A deep narrow vally, with a spring branch and pretty good grass. passed about 5 dead carcases of work cattle to every mile. the men returned from pursuit of the stolen horse, without him they got on track of him, and followd the track in different directions, until they gave it up, come back and saw the old indian that inform’d on him and told them that he would steal him from the indian and bring him to them, and they promised to give him A shirt, and the other presents if he would do so.
Friday July 28th We have concluded to lay by here to day to rest our worn out teams, and some of Mr Chapmns have gone to see more about the stolen horse. it is about 18 miles back. the boys have kill’d about 18 rabets and 4 sage hens this fore noon. the girls are washing, and baking aple and peach pies, stewing beans, and rabits and apear very happy. are all in good health and know no trouble. we have only 8 girls to do all the work this trip is fun for them, although the roads are very rocky, and mountaineous, and the creeks banks are awful frequently. yet if our teams would only hold out to get through, we have not much against it. we have lost 4 yoke of our team, and are now working 8 or 9 cows. our case is some what discourageing at present but we must only trust to providence, and hope for his blessings to rest upon us Mr Chapman has not got back to night.
Sat July 29th yoked up our teams this morning to start, and discovered one of our cows was sick turned her out, put in another and started. we had not got far until we saw one of Mr Cooks oxen was sick and could not work. turned him out, and gave them both a dose of lard and pepper, and they both died in two hours after, and one of Mr Chapmans oxen died at the same place yesterday very sudden. Mr. Cook had paid 100 dollars on snake river a few days ago for his oxen only worked him two days the Lord only knows what we are to do, if we lose any more it is all we can do now to get along, but we have the promise if we will but trust in him, he will help us out of all of our troubles. we have crossed two creeks to day, and came about 12 miles, and campt on chicken springs and have made them some scarcer since we stopt by a dosen, and have thin’d the rabits like wine. Mr Chapmans returned this evening with their horse, after spending 3 days trying to get him. they took the indians with them, and slept near the indians had the horse, and their indians got him while they were asleep. they have passed since we stopt here had the indian with them to give him some presents gave him a gun, and some cloaths. it was two days travel back here is 3 graves one is Adam C Cain aged 20 years kill’d by the indians 7 of September 1843 from adams Cy Ill. our horses have gave out to the little wagon to day, and we have hitch’d it to another wagon.
Sunday July 30 3 shawnee [Shoshone] indians come to see us before breakfast this morning. we gave them their breakfast, and they staid to see us start, as their custom is to look over a camp ground, to pick up the bacon rines, and crumbs and any thing we leave. we apeared to come 4 or 5 miles up hill this morning, and about the same distance down and noon’d on Bois river. it is a pretty gravel bottom’d river, good grass, and plenty of Balm Gilliad [poplar] trees, about the first trees we have seen in two months come on about 4 miles this afternoon, and stopt for the night on the bank of the Boise river. have very good grass, and plenty of wood once more. we have balm of Gilead here, but have no need of A physican for our bodyly health, but the physiqian that cure the sin sick is greatly needed, to give us a quantity of fortitude and patience, and teach us to trust in him and know that behind A frowning providence, he hides A smiling face.
Monday July 31th one of our best wheel oxen died before we started this morning, that worked all day yesterday. we did not know that he was sick until this morn. they had miss’d one day without any dieing, and we were in great hopes that they would not any more, but we were not so fortunate. we are to noon on the beautiful Boise River, under the balm gilead trees. this river would be call’d A creek in the states, but on this trip all the large creeks are call’d rivers, this river has rocky shores and bottom, and the prettyest banks of white coarse sand we ever saw. we think the 500 miles that we have to go, will be worse than all the way we have come. what team we have left are wore out with fatigue, and time will determine what we can do our prospect is gloomy at present. an indian has come to us on a pony with a salmon fish he gave us to understand he wanted A shirt for it. they told him, to much. he then wanted some bread. they gave him some & got the fish we dont know where he came from as we see no apearance of their residence. have come about 6 miles, and camp’t about a half mile from Boise on a branch that runs into it have most XLent grass, which is the most pleasing object with us at present, and have plenty of small wood to burn, and plenty to cook yet such as people generaly have on the plains paid 12 dollars for the last sack of flour, and 20 Cts per pound for bacon. have not see a vegetable growing this year we have not seen any rain for two months nor do we expect to see any soon, and we are nearly smother’d and covered with ashy dust and the sage among it looks as though it would set on fire without help.
Tuesday August 1 one of T Cooks oxen was dead this morning, and one of Jo Carters sick we started and drove him a mile or two and could not get him along any further, and let him alone to die. they die very soon after we notice they are sick and we never heard of one getting well. we have not determind on the cause. it is probely partly being suffocated in the hot alkily dust, and drinking bad water and exausted with the long trip. we are stopt for the night on the clear stream of Boise. 4 indians has come on ponys, to sell us some dried salmon we got them for a shirt and some powder, and caps saw some emegrants to day who had come back on the hunt of 4 horses the Indians stole from them last night they found one to day. they had sold to A white man
Wedn August 2. the indians come soon this morning with some fresh salmon. they got another shirt. if they will keep on so they need not go without as they nearly all do. we were suspicious about our horses being taken last night and tied up some of them to the wagon have noond again on Boise river, under a balm of Gilead tree 2 feet through. there is enough of such timber here to fence fields if necesary, and this bottom we think would yeild comon produce well, but it is not probeble it ever will be cultivated. it is to far away in an uncivilised land among the savage indians who know no more about work than the grasshopers and never saw such a thing as a garden vegetable growing here we leave boise to see it no more the men that were on hunt of the stolen horses pass us this eve with all their horses. found the indians on them running down rabbits. one would not give up the horse without a shirt, and they gave him one. have travel’d about 15 miles to day and campt again on Boise
Thursday aug 3 have come about 12 miles to day and ariv’d at the second crossing of snake river it is two weeks to day since we crossed it first and a sorrowful time it has been to us. we have lost 8 head of our work cattle, and one yearling it is about 140 miles and we have seen more graves and dead cattle all along the road, than all the balance of the way and we cannot get along as we are much further. we are working the last old cow to make out & get along at all, but we trust to providence, and hope for his promise. at this ferry fort Boise we have paid 6 dollars apeice for 5 wagons. have pull’d them out of the boat by hand, and camp’t for the night close to the water, and some went back and slept with the cattle. will swim them over in the morning. here is a low sod establishment they call the fort. that is all the building there is, with 1 covered wagon and 3 cloth tents, and 7 or 8 indian willow wigwams and the poorest dirtyest looking tribe we have yet seen. several are entirely naked. they do steal cattle from these traders they stay with and drive them to the mountains, and kill and eat them, and there is no way to punish them but to kill them, and they will not do that they have a garden enclosed here with poles but the grasshopers have eaten it up. it is now one hundred miles to the grand rounds and 500. & 50. to Salem Oregon. snake river is about half as wide as Illinois river, & runs into Columbia. Boise runs into snake river and is about half as wide, and a much pleasenter river, with its beautiful trees, pretty enough to stand in a Hortecultureal garden, while Snake river has nothing but bunches of small willow. can hardly make out to get a bite to eat here
Friday August 4 our folks went over soon this morning after the cattle and got them started to swim several times but with all their hardest exertions they would go back. they concluded about 10 O’clock to all come over and get their breakfast, and try it again. we had calculated we bought some salt for 60 cents per pound. sold dried peaches for the same. sold a peck of beans for two dollars to go 10 miles to day to Maleher [Malheur], and some familys are waiting there for us, but we frequently are disappointed in the same way. there was 3 or 4 indians here, & the men told them they would give them a good rifle gun if they would swim over our cattle. they said they would, and before noon got them all over but two, and we have paid an indian one dollar to fetch them over, so we gave them a gun powder & shot, and shirts, pants, coats, not a few, and some for pappoos. we are at the same spot to night as we were last night spread our table on the gravel close to the water. we have had a croud of naked indians around us all day, but as Adam and Eve in the garden, have discoverd their nakedness and have made themselves an apron, about a half yard square is every thing the most of them wear and that is often made of red flannel. here was two indians had on pants, some emegrant had give them, with their knees all out. they stood by me looking at me sew, and they haul’d of their pants and threw them down to me, and shewed me how they wanted them mended. acording to orders I pached both pair, and they come up close to me and put them on well pleased. they here all wear their hair long. some look as though they comb it and plait the sides. others hang long all over the face and eyes, and looks as though it never was comb’d & I dont suppose it ever was, as they had no comb we had one squaw with us nearly all day, with her pappoos on board, with leather fastened on it griter [garter] fashion to slip it in. she took it of and put it in the river, and wet it all over and it squalled manfuly. the next cattle they swam over had the same trouble and drownded one weak gave out one. the indians went to skinning it before it was hardly dead, and soon had the meat carried away to their wigwams friday eve after sundown here is too wagons just landed with us and two more too ferry over. I am tired of this place, here is more noise and confusion, than in the midst of A city, the innumerable indians, and the noise of swimming cattle, and so forth
Saturday August 5 left fort Boise and snake river soon this morn with the snakes and a few white skin flints, and come 15 miles without water across the most dust dry and hot bare desert that any person ever travers’d and campt for the night on the creek Maleher. here is a hut and tent ocupi’d by A Mr. Turner of Oregon a trader. we left 4 wagons of Missourians at the river who had the 4 horses by the indians. A Mr. Tipton they have been very unfortunate in loosing 50 head of cattle and one of their horses died last night that they rode to death in hunting the stole ones, and the indians rode them they had nearly to death, besides they paid another indian 70 dollars to find them and go with them. after we paid the indians one dollar, for bringing our calves he would not fetche them. said he would for a shirt, so they were swam over with some other emegrant cattle, and he kept the money. we have seen they lost another horse this morning one staid back all day looking for it and did not find it. think the indians got it several dead cattle to day, and here is 3 near our camp. here is a good cold spring, which we seldom see of late. saw some hot springs to day it has been death and distruction on cattle this year but healthy for people
Sunday Aug 6 did not start until nearly noon. have been putting oxen to the horse wagon and lighting our load by throwing away the false floor, and such as we can do without. the wife of Mr Turner came to see us this morning. this is the 2nd season she has came out from oregon with her husband to spend the summer in this savage land, far from any society but her husband and two children. she is a very lively pleasent interesting intelegent woman. they are a going to oregon this week, the new rout. we came from Maleher to sulpher spring, and campt for the night
Mon Aug 7th came about ten miles this forenoon to birch creek. here Mr Tiptons family had to stop for the night, as Mr Tipton has gone back to look for some cattle that he could not find yesterday morning, and they have to wait for him, and they were unwilling for us to go on and leave them along, and we have concluded to stop with them. we are now among they most theivish indians we have had all the way they are still the snakes and will steal all they can. we are campt for the night on birch creek in sight of snake river grass not very good. surrounded close to us with mountains
Tuesday Augt 8th we left snake river for the last time soon this morning and came to burnt river in 6 miles travel and crossd it 3 times. the road has been very mountainous and rocky to day. we have come about 12 miles to day and campt for the night on burnt river. the road is strung with dead cattle old and new. grass is pretty good the mountains are very high over our heads Mr Tipners 4 wagons are campt with us to night, and the widow Waldo with 7 negroes
Aug 9 one of Mr Greys cows and one yearling died last night, and one of Jo Carters and one of our own making it 4 to day to day we have about 15 miles to day and campt on a branch of burnt river it runs in a narrow valey with very high mountains on each side we have crossd the river 5 times to day. here is considerable small timber on this creek such as Quaken asp, balm of Gilead, Alder, Haws, Larches, birch &.c. saw a great many piles of bones and some graves, no graves yet that have died this year. it is cheering to us to have such beautiful branches of swift runing cool water several times every day, and pretty good grass.
Aug 10 came about 8 miles and noon’d on burnt river. met 3 men with about 20 pack horses and mules packed with flour and other eatables, and materials for gold diging on burnt river. they had been out here prospecting and we heard they found as much as 10 dollars per day and had gone back for provisions our boys have prospected some, and found gold. came on this afternoon, and passd a wagon and yoke of oxen dead by it. one wagon and family and 2 yoke of oxen to it, campt with us night before last. they went of and left us very lively, and it is their oxen dead, and they had fixed a cart of the 4 wheels, and gone on one of thomas cook oxen died this morning and 3 of our cows are sick this eve we are tented to night on a branch of burnt river, and pretty good many dead cattle to day that have died the last day or too, and wagons and cloathing of all kinds threw away. we are trying to get to grand rounds before we leave any. our case looks desperate but some of us have faith strong enough to beleive we shall get to Oregon. we know in whom we trust and are waiting patient for the promise
Friday Aug 11 are at the same place this forenoon one of our cows has died here to day & one of T Cooks yearlings, another train of miners has passd us to day will stop in a half days travel from here two kiouse indians have come to see us to day. they wanted some matches for salmon fish we gave them some and got it we come on about 4 miles this afternoon and campt near a spring pretty good grass, and no wood
Saty Aug 12 come about 14 miles to day have campt by a spring and some ponds pretty good grass but no wood, but little brush and chips. left one more of our cows this forenoon to die, and have two more sick we are in powder river valey. it is 3 or 4 miles wide, and on our left the mountains are coverd with tall pine trees down to the foot of them, and very rich perraries [prairies] joining and it begins to look a good deal more like getting to some place than we have seen all the way
Sabbath eve, Aug 13th When will our pilgrimage be done the worlds long week be over. The sabbath dawn that needs no sun. That day that fades no more we have travel’d about 12 miles to day and campt on powder river 3 of Mr Tiptons cattle were dead this morn all close together. we have miss’d one day without losing any. we hope and pray that providence will give us the remnent of our cattle we can barely get along with two yoke of oxen and cows to 4 wagons, and they weak and wore out. one wagon and some men pass’t us before we got started this morn said they saw the miners diging a ditch to drain a branch, and they told them they were finding as much as 8 dollars per day in the ditch. this valey is much prettyer than it was yesterday, and 7 or 8 miles wide. the mountains are high on the left and covered with timber and plenty of snow on the top of them, the river runing through it, and plenty of springs runing down the mountains. must be very cold in winter but if there Gold digings prove good, it will soon be settled here we found Governer Gaines of Oregon waiting here for his sons. here are some traders come out from Oregon with provisn to meet the sufering emegrants who have lost nearly all their cattle, and some we know have spent all their money, and others nearly all, and they only ask 35 dollars per hundred for flour and sugar 40 cents per pound, and cheese 75 we expect to get to the Grand round tomorrow, and hope to meet with a more pleasing prospect we have very good grass here good water and wood and all well, and have some thing to eat yet, but nearly out
Monday A 14th 3 more of Mr Tiptons cattle died last night and this morn we came about noon 8 miles and stopt at a cold spring saw some handsomer situations for farms than I saw in Ill. the land very rich and the side of the mountains coverd with pine and fur and beautiful place to build by scatering fur trees and springs. we have stopt for the night within 3 miles of G round on a good spring, grass good fur timber very pretty near us the hills low, but we beleive it too cold to live here as there is now frost every night.
Tuesday Aug 15 the axeltree of the wagon broke to day and we had to leave it came up a very long hill and down the longest and rockyest one we have all the way all the foot of it is the round [Grande Ronde] it resembles our large prairies in Illinois with low mountains all around it covered with pine timber. the land rich and dry with a great many cold springs and the land is flat clear up to the mountains we drove for 8 miles across the edge of it and stopt and
[Here the diary ends. See introduction to the Sarah Sutton diary to read about her death several weeks later in the Tygh Valley just east of Mount Hood.]
1The poetic quotes in Sarah Sutton’s journal seem to have been mostly from old hymns, although she may have written some of the lines herself.
2This was the Presbyterian Iowa, Sac & Fox Mission in present Doniphan Co., Kansas. Louis Barry, The Beginning of the West (Topeka, 1972), p. 1162. The Nemaha Indian Suhagency was also situated there on the St. Joseph route to the west. John D. Unruh, Jr., The Plains Across (Urbana, 1979), p. 482.
3This community at the crossing of the Nemaha in present Nemaha Co., Kansas, was founded and a bridge was built by William W. Moore, and known as Moorestown. It was very short lived. Barry, op. cit., p. 1224.
4Saleratus was water impregnated with either potassium or sodium bicarbonate.
5This was a little play on words by one who knew her King James Bible well. There are many references to “ Joshua the son of Nun ” all the way from Exodus to Nehemiah. In the book of Joshua alone there are 30 such references. Here she refers to John, her husband, and to his son, James. They had been out west before to scout out the land.
6This was a famous hymn by William Cowper, still in use in many churches. He entitled it “Light Shining out of Darkness.” William Cowper, ( 1731–1800), Poetical Works (London, 1967).
7Here the modern city of Green River, Wyoming, was aborning.
8This is a puzzling invented word. She evidently meant the overlanders themselves. She combined the word “roaming” with the biblical endings such as in Amalekites, Israelites.