Martha Missouri Moore
INTRODUCTION
On June 1, 1860, while traveling upstream along the Republican River in Kansas, Martha Missouri Moore wrote in her diary, ‘‘The anniversary of our wedding day. One year ago to day we were married… Few have been the trials of my wedded life, few the sorrows that have crossed my path. There has been a loving hand that would chase away all gloom from my brow and hold it close to his bosom in moments of despondency.”
Her maiden name had been Martha Missouri Bishop, daughter of James Jefferson and Frances (Brown) Bishop. She had been born in Benton County, Missouri, on October 18, 1837, so was 22 years old at the time of her 1860 journey. The wedding took place in Missouri’s Dade county.
The man she married on that June 1st, James Preston Moore, was also a birthright Missourian having been born in Dade County on October 28, 1828. He was a farmer and stockman. According to family tradition he had already been to California and back several times, often acting as a guide.
With the following words, almost an afterthought, Martha wrote in her diary on May 6th, “I had forgotten to state that we had a drove of 5100 head of sheep.” They had made the decision to drive the livestock to California, thinking that this would be no more difficult than caring for them over a Missouri winter.
“This seemed to us to be an incredible experience, so we talked to some of our sheep men friends about it. None of them showed much surprise as if to say, ‘No problem.’ One said with a shrug, ‘You’d need three good dogs and one good man for every thousand sheep.’ Another pointed out, ‘You’d have to shear them just before starting so that their wool was short. Heavy wool would be a problem in crossing streams because it would absorb water and add to the weight of the sheep. With more wool they’d be more likely to drown.’”
Martha wrote in her diary on May 9th, “It is almost impossible to force sheep across water.” On Monday, May 14th, she told of buying a shepherd dog named Chloe, “quite a pretty bitch.” The next day they purchased another dog. The cost for the two was $33.00. Dogs would be the key to success of the drive. As for shepherds, they had accompanying their wagon train several young men, undoubtedly experienced sheep herders.
James Moore sold off a thousand sheep on June 7th according to Martha’s diary entry for that day. This was at Fort Laramie.
By 1860 there had been a number of huge bands of sheep traveling over the California Trail.1 They waited until after most of the other wagon trains had left as sheep tended to leave very little forage after they passed through.
What one learns from the literature of the day is that James Preston Moore had earlier taken a flock of sheep from Missouri to Tehama County, California, and had a ranch waiting for them there. Louise Barry in her classic book about the jumping-off places of the overland exodus, The Beginning of the West,2 quotes from one George E. Blodget, a mail carrier, who had just returned from Fort Laramie, that he had met James Moore of Missouri “about 5 miles this side of Fort Laramie, driving about 10,000 head of sheep, which from bad water and continued travel, were dying at the rate of 40 or 45 daily.” He arrived in California that year, 1852, with something over 4500 animals, having suffered a dreadful loss.3
Moore evidently thought, however, that the journey could be done with more success, for he returned to Dade County with plans to take another flock of sheep overland. This journey was put off until 1860. He accumulated a great many of the animals and also bought up horses and cattle in numbers for the overland drive.
In crossing the country they did their best to minimize the number of stream crossings. They followed the traditional California Trail, turning off the Humboldt section of the trail in present Nevada to cross over the Nobles’ Route just north of Mt. Lassen to enter the northern Sacramento Valley. They settled on Reed’s Creek, near Vina, some twenty miles south of Red Bluff. There they were visited by the United States census taker in 1870. That person recorded that Moore was a “Stock Dealer” worth some $10,000. There were by then four children: Nancy, age 9; Lee, age 7, Martha, age 6; and Guy B. age 2. There would follow two more children, Fell, b. 1871, and Ray, b. 1874.
John Quincey Adams Warren, editor of the American Stock Journal, visited the Moore ranch in 1862 and described in a letter to that periodical in the August issue what he saw: “J.P. Moore, Reed’s Creek, has 2,800 American sheep. He is crossing with ½ breed Cotswold, Merino, and South Down. The fleeces averaged 4 lbs., and the clip 9,000 lbs. He also has a few American horses and mules, and 40 to 50 head of cattle, under improvement. The land is composed of rolling hills, or what is called ‘Bald Hills,’ and the grazing is clover and wild oats, which are considered very nutritious for the stock.”4
James Preston Moore died on October 18, 1880, his wife’s 43rd birthday. His obituary appeared on Wednesday, October 20th, in the Red Bluff Daily People’s Choice saying that death was caused by “a rupture of the right ventricle of the heart near the root of the pulmonary artery.” The newspaper pointed out that he had “devoted his attention to growing alfalfa and pasturing stock, which made his name famous among stock men throughout the adjoining counties.”
Martha Missouri Moore, who wrote the very special diary of the overland sheep drive, died only a few months after the death of her husband, on February 7, 1881. We have found so far no obituary attesting to her death. Martha’s niece, Frances Bishop Sweaney, wrote many years later after having typed out a copy of the diary, “As I sit at a typewriter copying from the yellowed pages, I seem to sink into a reverie and out of the shadows there comes a small, dark figure of a lady dressed in the style of the ’60s, who seems to beckon to me and urge me to set out again on the old trail. I wish I might; and perhaps I may.”5 So say we all.
On May 8th Martha wrote in her diary, “Mr. Dicus & Lady came up in the evening they belong to our crowd but haven’t been with us until today.” These were Samuel Calvin and Margaret (Maggie) J. Dicus (pronounced Dy-cus). They were old friends who had decided to go with the Moores to California. Mrs. Discus must have been pregnant for much of the journey, for their first son, William H. was born in 1860 in California. They would have two more boys, Charles, b. 1863, and George, b. 1886. The Dicus family settled in Butte County on arriving in California. They moved to Vina, Tehama County, to become neighbors of the Moores in 1870. They operated a general store in Vina for fourteen years. They ranched and raised stock. Samuel Dicus is listed as a farmer in the 1870 federal census of Tehama County.
The Martha Missouri Moore diary is in the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library at Yale University. We gratefully acknowledge the kindness shown to us by that library in supplying us with a microfilm of the manuscript and in giving us permission to use it.
We also gratefully acknowledge the indispensible help given us by two Tehama County local historians, Ruth Hughes Hitchcock and Andrew J. Osborne, both of Red Bluff. They have both shared with us their knowledge of the history of their county and especially of the Moore and Dicus families. Ruth Hitchcock has prepared a book entitled Leaves of the Past, which has been made available to the reading public by the Records and Research Department at the California State University at Chico. This is a major source on the history of individuals and families of the Tehama County area. The Moore and Dicus family information referred to in the above introduction came mostly from these sources.
MARTHA MOORE’S JOURNAL
1860 May 2nd Wednesday. After bidding home & friends farewell we started on our trip to Cal. We overtook the train at Mr. Doughertys where there were quite a number of persons gathered to bid us good bye. Pa, Ma, Nan, Tommy, George & Zeb come to Mr. Simpson’s our first camping place with us. It was a sad parting when the time came to bid them good bye and may God speed the day when we shall meet again.
May 3rd Still camped at Simpsons. Mr. Moore absent hunting horses that ran away from us this morning. Uncle Billy Snadon, Tom Snadon and brother Zeb left for home at nine. We struck the camp at 11 o’clock and went up to Simpson’s pasture where the hardest storm overtook us I have ever felt It pelted us two hours when it as suddenly ceased as it came upon us. I went up to Mr Simpsons wet and muddy and spent the night Mr. Moore came home in the evening but did not bring the horses, John Biddle having brought them before 11 in the morning.
May 4 Had a fair start the day being mild and pleasant we traveled over some beautiful country thickly settled with fine farms. Camped on a slew at the side of the road Made 33 miles. I rode Jim this morning for the first time.
Saturday 5th Come to Roops Point in Benton Co [Missouri] a distance of 13 miles. Carried water 1½ miles to cook with, not good at that. The season is very dry everywhere.
Sunday 6th I rode Fan over to Drywood where we camped during the day we passed a little place called Shanghai. I had forgotten to state that we had a drove of 5100 head of sheep. Found some gooseberries at the roadside, which I cooked for supper They were quite a treat.
Monday 7th Mr. John Renfro & Dicus rode into camp this morning with the startling news that we had let 1000 head of sheep get away from us at Simpsons and we must wait until they could catch up with us again. The weather is very unpleasant The wind blew harder today than I ever felt it. camp life isn’t very agreeable when the wind blows a hurricane.
Tuesday [May] 8th Still waiting for the sheep. It was cold all day no fire to warm by nor wood to make any. The wind blew so very hard I could not get out of the wagon for fear of being blown away. Mr. Dicus & Lady came up in the evening they belong to our crowd but haven’t been with us until today. Also Brother Frank & Zeb. I was glad to see them, it seemed like home again.
Wednesday 9th Left Little Drywood with 4800 head of sheep having experienced the loss of some three hundred. Pa overtook us today before noon Crossed Big Drywood it took us three hours. It is almost impossible to force sheep across water. They wont go by good nor foul means. We camped in a fine valley of grass. Pa took supper with us and stayed all night.
Thursday 10th The road very rough in many places the day intensely warm, come through Fort Scott in the afternoon. Pa treated us to a glass of iced Lemonade which was really good. Camped this side of town on the Mormiton [Marmaton].
Friday 11th Pa left for home this morning takingZeb with him. I disliked to part with them and more especially to go away without one. but then the best of friends must part and I am no exception to the general rule.
Saturday 12th Left Mormiton and came to Clear Creek when we stopped for the day. This creek is literally covered with cedar and is very good water. I wove Mag [Dicus] a cedar wreath while sitting on the ox yokes this evening. The weather quite pleasant.
Sunday May 13th Left camp early Traveled over a barren scope of country 20 miles from where we camped to Deer Creek found fine grass & water hole fish for supper. Everybody mad because it was late when we got into camp
Monday 14th Called a few minutes to see Hannah Flinn and her babe They live close by the road side Saw Frank Flinn and some more of our acquaintances Camped on another fork of Deer creek. Today Mr. Moore got a Shepherd dog Chloe. quite a pretty bitch.
Tuesday 15th Passed through Leroy [LeRoy, Kansas] very pretty little place. Mr. Moore got another large shepherd dog today, the two cost him $33. Saw the wonderful phenomoma Mirage today west of Leroy where small cottages look like two story houses Nooned on a little creek in the prairie and camped on the Neosho river. We have traveled over some beautiful country and very thickly settled considering five years ago it was the home of the savage and wild beast.
Wednesday 16th Left Indian creek in the morning passed through Geneva a small town Camped on the Neosho. Distance 10 miles.
Thursday 17th Waited some time in camp for lost cattle Mag & I went to see the river after wandering around some time we found the desired place. Bought some butter from two little girls iced and very nice Come through Ottumwa [Kansas] it rained nearly all day camped on a little bottom in the prettiest kind of place.
Friday 18th Were moving early, passed through two small places did not learn the name of either camped on the Neosho.
Saturday 19th were moving at ½ 7 Crossed a small creek when the sheep got separated from the wagons causing no little trouble. camped in a hollow.
Sunday [May] 20th Left camp at ½ past 8 crossed two streams of running water. The sheep drove slowly. This is Sunday but we observe no rest here. May the Heavenly Father remember his erring children in mercy. Mag & I gathered some gooseberries to stew. Some Indians came to camp tonight the first we have seen. To the boys who have never seen any they are objects to me a nuisance Camped on Bull creek.
Monday 21st Passed through Council Grove crossed the Neosho river with out little trouble. Had quite a conversation with a strange lady. I found her very pleasant Nooned on a small creek The weather is very hot. Camped on the river again tonight, the sun has set in beauty. Distance 11 miles.
Tuesday 22nd Left the Neosho traveling over a barren scope of country with no settlements, the dividing ridge between the Missouri and Arkansas rivers We struck Clark’s Creek in the afternoon traveled down a lovely valley passed a few settlements camped on the same stream. The water is slightly impregnated with sulphur and the best creek water I ever drank. The night bids fair for rain.
Wednesday 23rd The rain we expected came and kept everyone busy until 12 oclock I got up and dressed to get the hands some brandy. Left camp at ½ 7 Crossed the creek in a beautiful bottom After crossing the road wound over the hills. This little valley is hedged in by hills and the inhabitants see nothing beyond their own little world. Camped on Caw [Kaw] river in sight of Fort Riley.
Thursday 24th Lay over intending to overhaul some meat & other things. Mag & I did up our washing. I blistered my hands & arms so much for my first experience. The sun shone intensely hot and the wind so very high it was impossible to get about. Walked two miles for a drink of water.
Friday 25th Waited on the river bank in the broiling hot sun expecting every moment the sheep would cross the river, but the sheep were very contrary and there was no getting them across. Was visited by Mrs. Perry who spent the morning quite pleasantly with us. Mag & I called at Mrs. Toppins camp, a whole lot of East Canada folks were there.
Saturday 26th Left camp early, crossed Kaw river on a bridge of boats and come up through Fort Riley a more beautiful place I never beheld Situated in a valley surrounded by hills, the houses are all built of stone, presenting a neat and lovely appearance. Stopped at the Settler’s to purchase some things as we ascended the hills on leaving I looked back upon the Fort nestled in that lovely vale. The scene was enchantingly beautiful, imagination could have pictured it the work of fairies, not of human hand. Lo! in the distant hills or above every thing else arose a tomb a land mark for the nation.
Soldier rest, thy warfare o’er
Sleep the sleep that knows no waking,
Dream of battlefields no more1
Camped at a large spring of good water, found plenty gooseberries. At Fort Riley we took the road up the Republican, it being nearer and better.
Sunday [May] 27th Were detained in camp until 2 oclock P.M. on account of missing horses. Two young men brought Jim the black horse in and we sent and got the ponies. It looked very much like stealing. Camped in a lovely valley on the Republican Fork of Kaw river.
Monday 28th The wind was very high this morning one will certainly get their share of dirt that leads this life. Nooned on the prairie a drove of horses passed us while nooning they looked very nicely Two splendid match grays how I wish they were mine. Camped on the river. made 12 miles.
Tuesday 29th Morning cloudy & cool. Of all the nights I ever spent last night was the worst. The wind rocked my wagon so much there was danger of tilting it over In vain I wooed the goddess sleep she would sit lightly on my eyelids for a few minutes when a sudden jerk would make one as wide awake as ever. The day was very unpleasant and we were all glad when night come. Camped on a little creek found gooseberries also plenty of wood, water & grass. Made 12 miles
Wednesday 30th Detained in camp for lost horses Did anyone ever see such a time as we have with our horses. It is enough to worry out the patience of Job. The sun shines out like the face of an old friend this beautiful morning. Camped on the Republican found plenty of wood, water & grass, distance 10 miles.
Thursday [May]31st a rainy day everything goes wrong lost 7 head of sheep. Passed a new made grave. What a train of sad reflections it awakened on a trip like this. Left home with bright anticipations and glowing hopes of a future, only to find a grave by the roadside. This is the end of man “dust thou art and unto dust thou shalt return.”2 is the irreversable sentence against all material matter.
Friday June 1st The anniversary of our wedding day. One year ago today we were married. Have the joyful anticipations of that bright morning been realized? Has the canvas which was extended in glowing and ornate colors faded from view & left heart sickening desolation? or has the way been strewed with flowers and the paths along the way leading into channels of pleasure. Few have been the trials of my wedded life, few the sorrows that have crossed my path. There has been a loving hand that would chase away all glooms from my brow and hold me close to his bosom in moments of despondency. I passed on the sweetly gliding stream whose course has been through life’s sunniest vales, no dark sands have marred its limpid beauty, or adverse winds disturbed its peaceful flow. May kind Heaven add her protecting care and direct our way through paths of peace and pleasantness giving us at last a final admittance into the abode of light
Where the wicked cease from toubling
And the weary are at rest.3
Camped on a branch of the Republican plenty of wood water and grass. Made 14 miles.
Saturday 2nd Left the Republican today after traveling up it one week. The day exceedingly warm, camped on the high prairie without any water, Thought the times very hard. Made 14 miles.
Sunday [June] 3rd Sabbath on land & sea! And its influence is not entirely lost on man out in the wilds of civilization. he forgets his reverence for God’s holy day; yet the thought of it coming over him causes him to pause and reflect and for a moment worldly cares are forgotten and Sunday in all its quiet happiness streams upon his heart. Left camp 10 minutes after 4 A.M. Come to water at ½ past 6, when we stopped and got breakfast & watered our stock. Come 6 m. farther to Salt Creek where we camped for the night got some good spring water and gooseberries.
Monday 4th A beautiful morning. The birds sing sweetly among the trees. Mr. Moore rode in the wagon all day a little indisposed. Camped on tributary of the Blue, wood water & grass, found a great many gooseberries Made 14 miles.
Tuesday 5th Crossed the Blue without any trouble & came into the main California road. Quite a hurricane come up in the evening and the weather from intensely hot became suddenly cool, so much so I had to put my shawl on and was cold at that. Had a shower in the evening. Camped on the Blue.
Wednesday 6th Mr. Moore and I rode a head of the sheep to the station where we met some very pleasant folks, had a good rest. Camped out on the prai rie without water excepting what we hauled.
Thursday 7th Left camp by daylight and got into Platte river valley by 9 A.M. The river is a perfect curiosity, it is so different from our own streams that it is hard to realize that river should be running so near the top of the ground without any timber and in no bank at all. Wrote to Mat Nevill, Mat Moore & home. Camped on the Platte some distance from the Fort.
Friday 8th Today we come through Fort Kearney it is not much of a place. mud & adobi houses constitute the fortifications. I purchased a dress at Kearney City, paid 20 cents a yard. Went to the fort and camped.
Saturday 9th A dismal morning the weather cold & chilly. We concluded to wait fora better time to cross Platte. Made part of my dress, found poor Mag crying to go home. Had rather a pleasant time while camped there, but I can enjoy my self any where what would make any one else fret & scold I am content with.
Sunday [June 10th] Still raining every thing is completely soaked through. It is said Abraham dwelt in tents, he must have had more of the ambitious nature about him than I have, ora very unpleasant life Left camp at noon and come up to the 17 mile point where we camped again. It cleared off nicely in the evening.
Monday 11th Cool & pleasant all day. Had a nice ride on Jim. The scenery along this river is very beautiful. It is true there are no Alpine heights to strike with awe the beholder but one perfect scene of rural loveliness. The country is fast settling up. The inhabitants build themselves sod houses and manage to live on nothing. The roads are quite muddy. Camped on Plum Creek.
Tuesday 12th Weather very warm we had to go some two miles back across a bridge Plum creek being so much swollen we could not ford. Made only a half a day’s travel. Get no wood here excepting what we haul. It was a beautiful sight to see the sand hills in the distance and the dark clouds across whose bosoms the forked lightening plays, looming up behind them threateningand pregnant with wrath to man. It rained nearly all night. Mr. Moore got little or no rest.
Wednesday 13th Cleared off this morning the weather intensely warm. The same scenery still presents itself to our view, the broad river stetching as far way as eye can reach, lifting its bosom to heaven now circled with foam, now eddying sweeping majestically along. Camped on the Platte. It was was quite cool in the evening and everybody seemed to be in good humor, something unusual in our camp.
Thursday 14th The morning very unpleasant, the atmosphere is heavily saturated with moisture, and the bosom of the river flaked with foam. This is a beautiful river and one would scarcely grow tired of looking at it. Were visited by some Sioux Indians they were inclined to be troublesome.
Friday 15th Rainingagain This morning we had quite a hailstorm. passed several dwellings and Cottonwood springs. Visited some graves on a rising mound just in the distance. Death is the great fate from which there is no escape and it comes alike to all men. even out in this wilderness where there are so few and often passing strangers.
Saturday 16th The blue sky is dotted with white clouds the dew drop hangs from every leaf and blade of grass the birds sing enchantingly in yonder leafy spray the wind fans my cheek refreshingly and all tends to make a scene of rural loveliness. Mr. Moore & I went to the top of Fremonts peak, we could see far away in the distance. the river lay calm as a babe in its untroubled slumber while the South Platte poured its turbid waters into its depths. Camped on a slough. Walked two miles for a drink of spring water.
Sunday [June] 17th The wind blew a hurricane last night I certainly thought it would blow the wagon over. I found my clothes out of doors when I went to dress. The day was calm & cool and we nooned on the prairie. I lost my watch key I felt bad enough about it to cry. Stopped at Fremont Springs and got a good drink of water. We camped at the ford on the South Platte.
Monday 18 th Commenced crossing the sheep this morning and succeeded in getting them all over in one day. We considered ourselves quite lucky only drowned four. Were visited by some Sioux Indians. Camped on the north side of S.P.
Tuesday 19th Morning chill & murky but it cleared of in the forenoon and the sun was intolerably hot. A great many of the sheep are lame and some dying of poison from drinking water out of Alkali holes discouraging. Camped on the S. side of North P. Water much better but no wood yet.
Wednesday 20th Morning very pleasant the sand hills stretch far away in the distance and the turbid Platte moves on in its untroubled way. The road monotonous as ever. We lay over half the day The boys did up their washing and I finished my dress Found wood on an island in the river and swam it over. Made 6 miles.
Thursday 21st Started early to Ash Hollow Struck the sand hills at noon and traveled some ten miles in them but we found no Hollows had to camp in the hills 3 miles from wood or water. Mr Moore packed water on a mule it did not come till after dark and I was very thirsty. We saw five antelope in one evening ride two of them quite near us.
Friday 22nd The sky thick clouded and the air very chill. Left camp at ¼ past 7 came to the river at ½ past 10 we came over the sand hills all day. Camped on the bank of the river. got a cedar tree out of the river that the beavers had cut down, for fuel. made 14 miles
Saturday 23rd We struck the sand hills at noon & after laying in a supply of Cedar wood we come into Ash Hollow at ½ past 5. Passed the spring but did not get any water. I was bitterly disappointed. The Hollows have always been associated with dread in my mind, lurking savages sulking coyotes and deeds of crime which made my blood chill. I was therefore surprised to find them as they are a scene with which no one would connect a remembrance of the murders said to have been committed here. After supper we visited Gen. Harney’s4 fortifications which were thrown up in haste to protect them against the Sioux Indians The river has caved in and taken with it part of the wall while the rest are fast tumbling to decay. It is hard to realize that the tramp of six hundred men has been heard here where everything is now so very quiet nothing is heard excepting the shrill scream of the Kildee and the murmering of the Platte.
Sunday [June] 24th Mrs. Dicus and I clambered over the hills hunting curiosities and looking at the beautiful scenes. It is Sunday but there cometh no rumor of peace here. It is Woa, go on there, gee here with all the noise and bustle of camp life. A very hard rain come up in the evening, unless one has witnessed a thunder storm on the Platte one can have no idea of its pitiless fury.
Monday 25th This morning cloudy and very wet. we have certainly had no dust to contend with since we come upon the Platte, for it has rained upon us every few days. The road was very sandy all day and the recent rains had filled the road full of Alkali water Camped on the bank of the river.
Tuesday 26th The gnats and mosquitoes are innumberable along here Mr. Moore reports Court House Rock in the distance. Camped on the Platte made 12 miles.
Wednesday 27th The sun arose this morning o’er as lovely a landscape as I ever beheld. rode horse back all day A large freight train passed us at butte creek. We struck the mail route again today not having been on it since crossing South Platte. We came 60 miles from the Hollows in four days. Come in sight of Court House Rock and camped opposite it tonight.
Thursday 28th The Court House Rock looked beautifuly this morning pictured against the dark cloud that loomed up behind it. The Chimney rock appears in the distance like a steeple tall and slender. Camped opposite this noted rock tonight. Distance 15 miles.
Friday 29th Visited the Chimney Rock this morning in company with Mrs. Dicus and Mr. Moore. We ascended the rock to where the chimney sets off and could get no higher The boys went up the shaft they looked like mere doll babies up so far. The rock is composed of a kind of clay easily broken & will soon all crumble to pieces. Camped two miles above the stage station everybody mad and swearing.
Saturday 30th The roads were fine today not being troubled much with sand. We are camped tonight in Scotts Bluffs. This is the most beautiful scenery we have been among. The valley surrounded by mountains whose sides & tops are covered with pines and cedars the rippling stream make up a scene enchantingly lovely. I thought if there is peace to be found in the world the heart that was humble might hope for it here. Made 15 miles The sheep were scattered all over the canons
Sunday July 1st Passed an excellent spring of water how I wished I could take the fountain with me. Come in sight of Laramie’s Peak at noon Had quite a shower in the afternoon which was very refreshing. Got into camp late everybody was mad as usual. Made 15 miles
Monday 2nd Crossed Horse Creek this morning passed the stage station, a white man living with an Indian squaw Camped on the Platte again tonight the water is much colder and better than it was before. Made 8 miles.
Tuesday 3rd Come over the sand hills this morning into a lovely bottom where we nooned. found excellent spring water & fine grass. camped at the head of the bottom.
Wednesday 4th This is our glorious Independence Day. In the stillness of the morning methinks I hear the notes of the star spangled banner floating upon the breeze but stars and stripes unfurl not their soft folds here The only music heard is the mad wind soughing and sighing through the sand hills. camped on a slough found plenty of wood water & grass. Got some excellent spring water at the station.
Thursday 5th Laid over to wash. I don’t believe I was ever so tired in all my life. I am so sore all over I can scarcely move. We had a pleasant place under the trees and soft water to wash with. Come 4 miles to the next bottom where we camped for the night.
Friday 6th Were visited this morning by Mr. Low,5 one of Mr. Moore’s old acquaintances, come 4 miles to Laramie’s Fort. Had an awful time crossing the sheep. Wrote to Ma. The stream is very swift and when up very dangerous. Camped one mile ahove the Fort in short grass plenty of wood and water.
Saturday 7th Laid over today while Mr. Moore disposed of a thousand head of sheep at five dollars a head. Wrote to Uncle Mat, Nevill, sister Temp & cousin Agnes Tried to bake some light bread, but did not succed very well. The day was spent quite pleasantly.
Sunday [July] 8th Left camp early, the road rough and hilly through the Black Hills the weather much cooler than usual. Nooned under a cottonwood in a small bottom on the river just above Mr. Low’s train. Several of the Sioux Indians were around begging as usual. camped on the river 1 mile above the stage station. plenty of wood & water grass poor. Made 12 miles
Monday 9th Left camp at ½ past 7 come 1 mile and a ½ to Lime Kiln Springs to the right of the road. Had some fine mountain scenery today in many places we could see as far as the eye could reach. Laramies Peak rose beautifully in the distance. Camped on Little Cottonwood Raining and very unpleasant underfoot. I forgot to mention that at Laramie we took what is called the river road.
Tuesday 10th Left camp at ½ past 8 were passed by Mr. Low’s train in the morning. Crossed a small branch 2 miles from where we camped took a left hand road through the hills. The road was hilly but smooth came to water at three P.M. and crossed another little branch at 5. Camped at two fine springs by the roadside, grass scarce. Were passed by two Indian chiefs who asked for a drink.
Wednesday 11th Left 10 dead sheep this morning poisoned by wild cherry bushes. Come 3 miles to the stage stations on a small creek. Took a left hand road, crossed a spring branch in a steep canon twice Nooned on the side of the hill below some groves of pine & cedar. Were passed by the stage and pony express.6 Passed a small ravine in which there was water at 3 in the afternoon. Camped on a dry creek water and grass scarce.
Thursday 12th Left camp at ½ past 8 come into the old road at 10 A.M. There is some delightful scenery among these hills. Nooned on the dividing ridge grass scarce. The pine trees that so luxureantly covered these hills grow less and less every day. Come 5 miles to a little creek where we camped for the night plenty of wood & water no grass at all, this is the barest camp ground we have had. Made 14 miles.
Friday 13th The morning comes in intensely hot were it not for the clouds which generally over shadow the sun in the afternoon we would certainly melt. Will this interminable travel never end? But why complain? Man’s days are few and full of trouble as a morning flower he flourisheth. This is one way of getting rid of time. Crossed a stream in the morning another at 10. Come through an everlasting chain of hills whose sides are as bare of verdure as the great Sahara desert. Many of these hills are composed of red clay & tall cliffs of rock. What wonderful workings of Nature could have produced this phenomenon God is mysterious in all His ways His wonder working wisdom. Camped in a narrow wood & spring water, good grass on the knolls made 15 miles.
Saturday 14th Left camp at ½ past 8 and come to water at 10 A.M. a small branch, Come 1 mile farther to a fine stream of water where we nooned. Camped on the prairie at ½ past 4 P.M. good grass but no water hauled wood. Saw a lovely apparition in the shape of a woman riding horse back. She was very pretty and prettily dressed. Made 10 miles.
Sunday [July] 15th Left camp ¼ to 7 and come to a fine spring branch before 8, crossed Box Elder at ½ past 9 & come out on the prairie to noon One of the largest steers died today of murrain.7 We are now through the Black Hills having been just one week among them. As I look back they rise with bristling ruggedness as if to shut out forever from my sight the home of my childhood and those friends whom I love so well. And when I look down upon the turbid Platte as swiftly within its crumbling banks rolls on to join its gray flood with that of the King of waters. I sigh to think that it of all I see is moving toward the home & friends of my youth. Camped on the bank of the Platte, wood and water, grass poor. Made 12 miles. Heard a wolf howling over the river the first I have heard since leaving home. The sound was dreary and dismal and Campbell’s lines soon came to memory.
And waft across the waves tumultuous roar
The wolf’s long howl from Onalaska’s shore.8
Monday 16th Came to Deer Creek at 8 oclock A.M. where Mr. Moore did up his shopping.
Distant lands enchantment to the view
And robes yon mount in its asure hue.9
No where is this so truly realized as on the broad prairies of the west where one can see as far as vision can penetrate Camped on the bank of the Platte under some beautiful shade trees. plenty of wood, water, & grass. Made 4 miles.
Tuesday 17th Moving at 7 A.M. Were passed by Mr. Ross’10 sheep train having the same number that we have. Rained in the evening and we camped below Mr. Ross on the river. Found plenty of currants but it was too wet to gather any.
Wednesday 18th Left camp at ½ past 6 A.M. came 4 miles to the bridge crossed at 10 Had some excellent ice water. Nooned on a little bottom had fine grass. Camped on the bank of the Platte just above the upper bridge. Fan & the grey horse very sick all night. Made 17 miles.
Thursday 19th Over sand hills & hollows until noon certainly the roughest country I ever saw, bare & desolate a fit habitation for the home of the red man and the sulking coyote. At 3 P.M. we left the Platte having traveled up it 1 month & 11 days. It was like parting with an old friend to leave the river. Camped on the sand hills between the river & Willow Springs No wood, water, nor grass. Made 15 miles.
Friday 20th Were moving early came to the Willow Spring branch at 9 A.M. where we nooned. This is quite a pretty place. Came to the Willow Springs at 1 P.M. We did not stop only to wait on the sheep as there was a rain coming up. Camped on a little creek 7 miles from the springs. Had tolerable grass & fine water sage for fuel Made 15 miles
Saturday 21st It rained incessantly all fore noon having rained all night before We had rather a gloomy time Struck camp at 12 & come some 8 or 9 miles out on the prairie, had fine grass, no wood nor water excepting what we hauled. Camped in sight of Independence rock & Devil’s Gate.
Sunday [July] 22nd It is a Sabboth morning but we were moving early. Passed Independence rock at 10 A.M. & crossed Sweetwater soon after. I think this rock much prettier than Chimney Rock & one thing certain it is going to stand as long as time lasts. Passed the Devil’s Gate at 5 P.M. and camped just above it on fine grass & good water. Made 15 miles.
Monday 23rd Were detained in camp some time to get wood this morning. Visited the Devil’s Gate the most noted curiosity along this road. This is indeed wonderful to look at and one stands in awe of Him Who tore asunder the mountains and holds the winds in the hollow of His hands. But why attempt a description. All that I could say would not add to the sublimity of the scene. It speaks for itself. Passed a great deal of Alkali water this morning. Nooned on Muddy Creek had Alkali all round us but the grass was very fine Camped on the bank of Sweetwater fine grass & willow wood made 16 miles.
Tuesday 24th Passed the stage station 1 mile from camp Plenty of Alkali everywhere. the road very rough and unpleasant to travel over. Nooned on Sweetwater in the bend of the river. Nothing new or strange, the mountains look bare & cheerless, and the days are intensely hot. Camped opposite a mountain two miles from the entrance to Three crossings Had plenty of wood water & grass. Made 15 miles.
Wednesday 25th Mag & I took a ramble over the mountains, there were many strange things and many to excite our curiosities, and it afforded us a pleasant relief from the monotonous jogging of the wagons. Crossed the river three times this morning saw plenty of names cut upon the rocks, but none that I knew. Those that have gone across in earlier years friends & acquaintances have left no trace of their footsteps here. Nooned above the third crossing came over the mountains in the evening, were overtaken by a very hard rain Camped on the bank of Sweetwater. Quite a number of trains are camped along Made 12 miles
Thursday 25th [26th] Rainingagain this morning. Crossed the river 1 mile after starting. Come to the ice springs 3 or 4 miles after leaving the river. The water along the road is very poisonous. Came in sight of the Wind river mountains after leaving the river. These mountains are covered with snow the year round. Passed a warm spring in the evening. Camped 1½ miles from the river on the sand hills Made 15 miles.
Friday 27th Over mountains and canyons until we reached the river at 9 A.M. where we nooned. The boys caught a fine mess of fish with a seine. Left the river at 3 P.M. over mountains all evening until I am sick and tired. Camped at some springs to the right of the road in the mountains, heard the wolves howling all night. Made 12 miles.
Saturday 28th Were moving early over a mountainous country. crossed several branches Passed an old blacksmith shop where we found a lot of newspapers, though dates in February and March they were eagerly gathered by the boys. Nooned on Strawberry creek, found grass & water plenty. Crossed Rock Creek at 4 and camped on Willow Creek at 5 P.M. Made 15 miles.
Sunday [July] 29th Found a nice mess of strawberries this morning. The weather is quite cold so much so as to be very unpleasant. Struck the river at 9 A.M. here we nooned. Took the Lander route11 at starting and come 6 miles to Willow Creek. Plenty of wood, water & grass some of the prettiest flowers I ever saw.
Monday 30th The weather cold, crossed a spring branch soon after starting, come to the river some 10 miles after leaving camp crossed it and camped on a little creek after 5 P.M. plenty of wood, water & grass. Made 13 miles
Tuesday 31st Traveled up the creek we camped on until noon when it suddenly disappeared, passed a slight ascent over a rocky ridge and we were through the South Pass. Crossed Sandy whose foaming & dashing torrent was rushing to join its mad waters with those of the Pacific Camped on a little branch fine grass and good water.
August Wednesday 1st It rained during the night and the morning was damp & chill it continued showery all day. Come over mountains to Big Sandy where we nooned found a nice mess of strawberries. Passed a grove soon after starting, over a barren desolate country stopped at the first grass we saw some distance from the road no water.
Thursday 2nd Ice in the wash pan and great demand for shawls and over coats. Come 1 and ½ miles to Little Springs where we laid over until noon. Started on the 18 mile desert come 9 miles and found plenty of water & grass, sage for fuel to the left of the road.
Friday 3rd The weather cold enough for December over a desert country to the No Fork of Green River. Crossed it safely & nooned on the stream caught some fine fish out of its pearly depths. Drove 5 miles to the main river where we camped for the night. Made 14 miles.
Saturday 4th Crossed the main river with but little trouble. Nothing about the stream to excite terror though so many sad accidents have happened here. The water is so very clear & cold. Camped on Clover Creek 12 miles from Green river. Raining and wet all evening, another of our best steers died this evening. Mr. Moore was very unwell.
Sunday [August] 5th Came 9 miles to Big Spring Creek where we camped for the day it being Sunday. So unwell all day I could not enjoy anything found some strawberries Plenty of willow wood, water & grass.
Monday 6th Crossed a little creek soon after starting and come into the mountains at 9 A.M. Traveled up Beaver Creek some 2 or 3 miles where we nooned found plenty of gooseberries. Camped at the Block House built by the company that worked on the road. It is situated at the head of a most lovely valley and would make a fine summer residence. Made 13 miles.
Tuesday 7th Over mountains, down canons on heights that make one dizzy to look down such has been our road all day & tonight watchworn & weary we are camped in a valley where there are plenty of strawberries but not much else. Made 10 miles.
Wednesday 8th The heaviest kind of frost lay upon the ground this morning yet the flowers & strawberries lift their heads lovingly to the sun untouched by the cold. The road very much as it was yesterday the scenery in many places delightful, but everyone is getting very tired. Camped on Smith’s Fork at the head of the canon No grass plenty of wood & water.
Thursday 9th Waited in camp for lost horses. The Indians attacked us while there every cheek was blanched white as driven snow, and we were running everywhere to get out of the way. They shot Hunter one of the teamsters through the arm, thigh and ankle. Mrs. Dicus and I ran to the willows where we hid until Mr Moore sent us word he was starting the teams. We hastened away thankful that our lives have been spared, but the roads were miserable and to mend the matter Dawn upset my wagon. We stopped to put everything in which detained us one hour longer. Camped on Salt river at dusk. Mr. Moore stood guard all night.
Friday 10th Down Salt river to the trading post where we nooned. They gave us some fresh bear meat which was very good. Camped on Salt river everyone on the lookout for Indians Plenty of wood, water & grass
Saturday 11th Passed over the lovely bottom of Salt river entered the mountains in the afternoon, the way rough & tedious Camped on Salt Springs. The salt is quick thick every where and we laid in a supply made 14 miles
Sunday [August] 12th Were moving early, nooned at the entrance of Kinnikinnik canon12 commenced the ascent in the evening. The mountains were steep and precipitous on both sides and we were till late in the night getting through. Camped among the pine everyone frightened at the idea of staying all night in such a place. A storm come up in the night making the dead pine creak and grown adding misery to our already miserable situation. Went to bed supperless.
Monday 13th Started at 4 A.M. and come into grass valley by 9 when we got to breakfast, staid until afternoon and come to large grass valley where there is a lake several miles long. Camped on a small tributary of the lake weather cold enough for winter, plenty of mosquitoes
Tuesday 14th Were moving by 5 A.M. come up by the lake in which there were plenty of ducks, did not succeed in getting any. Were met by the soldiers going out on their scout. Nooned on Thistle creek and I did up my washing. Camped on the open prairie 2 miles from water. Made 12 miles.
Wednesday 15th Traveled through an open country, crossed a small creek in the evening camped on a little branch of clear, cold water.
Thursday 16th Sent poor Hunter13 to the fort this morning. Nooned on Thistle creek. Mr. Moore traded for some new cows. Crossed the Portneuf River on a bridge. camped at a spring branch at the mouth of the canon.
Friday 17th Come through the canon I was scared all the time had a rough road all day. Crossed Rosses fork at 3 P.M. Camped on one of its tributaries, plenty of water & grass.
Saturday 18th Come into Snake river valley soon after starting, nooned on a small creek the weather very warm and the dust almost intolerable. Camped on a tributary of the Portneuf, had the nicest campground since leaving Platte. Made 15 miles.
Sunday [August] 19th Come upon Coin. Howe’s14 camp at 9 A.M. It looked very nicely nestled under the hill on the banks of the Portneuf river. It had an air of comfort about it and one could almost imagine that a home in the wilderness was a pleasant one. We camped below them at a nice spring and fine grass. Received an invitation to [go] over & hear the band play and take tea with Howe, which we gladly accepted the evening passed pleasantly and the tea and roast beef were fine. Went back to camp very much refreshed.
Monday 20th Laid over today expecting to get an escort of soldiers to travel with tomorrow. I wrote to Pa & sister Temp. Col Howe called this morning. My wagon was very much turned up and Mag was washing. Went over and spent the evening very pleasantly with him.
Tuesday 21st Left camp at ½ past 7 did not get the escort of soldiers as we expected I dread going off alone in this wild country but we can only appeal to God for protection and hope for the best. Nooned on the Portneuf river, weather intensely warm. Crossed the Banok [Bannock] at 3 P.M. Camped on the banks of Snake river valley once more and drove our stock down to graze.
Wednesday 22nd Left camp at 20 minutes after 6 A.M. Come some 4 miles to where the Harrington15 party were killed by Indians & Mormons last year. Oh! God protect us from such a fate. There were nine persons buried in one grave the wolves had torn it open and several pieces of bone were scattered round. Old clothes, broken dishes & parts of the wagon were there. With a saddened heart I turned away glad to escape from a scene to horrible to picture. Nooned at a sink hole spring fine grass. Passed the American Falls on Snake river they were quite a curiosity. Camped on a small creek 3 miles from the Falls. Made 15 miles.
Thursday 23rd Were movingat 6 A.M. over the roughest country imaginable. Nooned on the bank of snake river plenty of grass. Camped in a little valley after crossing Fall creek at 4 P.M. Made 3 miles from the Falls. Made 15 miles.
Friday 24th Left Snake river 1 mile after starting come to Raft river at 11 A.M. where we nooned Come down Raft river to fine grass where we camped. Made 12 miles.
Saturday 25th Up Raft river to the third crossing where we nooned. left it and come to the junction of this road and the Hudspeth cut off.16 Camped at the mouth of the canon after dark. Made 17 miles.
Sunday [August] 26th Come up through a canon to the last crossing on Raft river where we nooned. This is the noted Mormon range where most of the their deeds of horror have been transacted and one holds their breath while traveling here. Mr. Moore lost his watch Camped at the head of Raft river fine grass. Made 5 miles.
Monday 27th Over hills & hollows to a lovely valley where we nooned. crossed several streams of water in the afternoon and camped 3¼ miles from City Rocks plenty of wood, water & grass
Tuesday 28th Entered the canon soon after starting held my breath while there. Here is much for Natures admirers to study out and muse among for hours but so many deeds of horror have been perpetrated here it afforded me no pleasure to be among them. Camped at Granite Springs, plenty of wood & grass [blot] much Made 15 miles.
Wednesday 29th Had an awful rough road over to Goose Creek where we nooned. Traveled up Goose Creek in the evening Camped in a lovely valley grass fine, thought of Indians all night. Made 14 miles.
Thursday 30th Were moving early crossed two prongs of the creek in the forenoon and come to the canon at 3 P.M. Mr. Moore saw a dog, heard some one talking and went to examine before we entered. We saw nothing but a frightful looking place and were glad to get through. Camped in a valley near the head waters of the creek Made 15 miles.
Friday 31st Were awakened at midnight by Indians rolling down rocks trying to stampede the horses. Every body was in a short time trying to get a sight of them but the scamps ran off in the mountains and after firing twice troubled us no more. Passed Rock Spring at 3 P.M. and camped in an narrow valley some 5 miles from Thousand Spring valley. Made 15 miles.
Saturday September 1st Were moving early. Come to Thousand Spring valley at 9 A.M. Nooned at the first water. Camped at the Rush Springs water & grass weather cold enough for December. Made 15 miles.
Sunday 2nd. Had quite a rest in camp and come to the Boiling springs where we nooned. The water is hot enough to cook an egg from 3 to 5 minutes. I could only bear my hand in it a second. This is a strange country made up of strange things and inhabited by beings stranger still. Camped some 8 miles from the springs at the foot of the mountain at some springs to the left of the road. Plenty of water & grass. Were visited by some Shoshoney Indians at the springs.
Monday 3rd Moving early through the divide between the Thousand Spring valley and Humboldt river down hill until we struck a small branch where we nooned the headwaters of Humboldt. Camped on the same branch. Kept a sharp lookout for Indians.
Tuesday 4th Over sand hills all morning had a rough time. Nooned at sink hole on the left hand road having taken this road to avoid going through the canon. Camped in a lovely valley plenty of sage, water and grass. Were visited by a band of Shoshone Indians, all friendly and begging. Made 15 miles
Wednesday 5th Took a wrong road in the morning and were winding around all day. Nooned in a wide bottom some 3 miles from Bishop’s Creek. Crossed Bishop’s creek at 3 P.M. Camped on Humboldt river some 4 miles from the creek. Had fine grass it was more than waist high. Met with bad luck this afternoon Will Hudspeth’s17 revolver fell from the holster and fired. The ball entered his horse’s side killing him in some three hours. Made 15 m.
Thursday 6th We are now to try the dread realities of this river famous for frogs, Alkali & Indians. Nooned on the bank of the river the weather very warm. Traveled down a lovely valley which would be delightful indeed were it not for the dust that rises in such dense clouds as to almost suffocate one. Camped on the bank of the river, two Indians staid with us over night. Made 15 miles.
Friday 7th Crossed North Fork some 2 miles after starting the road was rough all day, and very dusty. The ground was covered with frost this morning and the weather quite cool. Nooned on the river had a warm place. I bought some Mountain Trout from an Indian, which were quite a treat. Camped on bank of river. The guard thought they heard Indians in the night. Made 18 miles.
Saturday 8th Passed some Boiling Springs soon after starting. The smoke from them rose up so thick & fast we thought it was the dust from another train. Had a fine road all morning over a level country. Haven’t seen any Indians all day I presume they are keeping dark for night atrocities. Nooned on the bank of the river. Crossed the river and camped at the entrance of the canon fine grass and plenty of it. Made 16 miles.
Sunday [September] 9th Crossed the river again at the entrance of the canon, crossing it three times while in there. The way was rough and the sides steep and precipitous and I for one was glad to get through. Nooned below Moga Creek.18 Crossed Moga in evening and camped below the hot springs at the foot of the mountain The grass was short and wood scarce. Made 14 miles.
Monday 10th Commenced to ascend the mountains early, the march was toilsome and fatiguing. Nooned in a small valley and I procured some fresh venison from a Shoshonee. Passed some springs to the right and left of the road in the afternoon. We had a rough road to trabble over down Gravelly Ford. Camped at the ford were visited by a lot of Indians. Made 17 miles.
Tuesday 11th 10 miles over the hills into the valley again here we nooned. The road was rough all evening and we camped by the river side more or less Indians at camp all the time. The night is very cool. made 16 miles.
Wednesday 12th Nothing new or interesting this river is very much like the Platte, low hills in the distance, the river fringed by willows with Alkali bottoms. Camped 2 miles above Stoney Point & had a good camping place at least the Indians didn’t trouble us. Made 14 miles.
Thursday 13th Passed Stoney Point early and we were glad to get by, took the hill road which took us some distance out of the way so we did not noon but took the first camp road to the river. The day was raw and very disagreeable. Camped at 3 P.M. Plenty of Indians around and I procured a fine mess of fish. Made 14 miles.
Friday 14th Moving early down the river. drowned 11 sheep in an Alkali slough nooned on the river. Indians round what a nuisance they are! Camped on the river our road lay over the hills in the afternoon. Made 15 miles.
Saturday 15th Still down the river how I did wish it would give out nooned in the bend of the river a short distance from the hills the day very warm. Camped on the river at the foot hills on the Piute [Paiute] line Made 10 miles.
Sunday [September] 16th Made 6 miles over the hills into the valley again, where we nooned. It is Sunday but there cometh no rumor of peace here. Camped on the bank of the river in a pretty place. Two suspicious looking men rode into camp after night telling us the Shoshonee were killing a train behind us.
Monday 17th Passed those suspicious characters early they gave us a good deal of information about California but who can believe anyone out in this wilderness. Nooned beside the lagoon some Piute Indians round. Our road lay over the hills in the evening and it was late when we camped in the valley. Aroused in the night by Mr. Qualls riding into camp at midnight and desiring us to remain where we were encamped until he could catch up with us. They had got into trouble with the Indians and wanted more company. Made 18 miles
Tuesday 18th Lay over today and we spent it clearing up everything generally. Every body was tired when night come.
Wednesday 19th Were moving early over sand hills nooned on the bank of the river. Had a very sandy road all afternoon camped at the lower end of a little bottom, grass scarce made 14 miles.
Thursday 20th Road hilly and very sandy in many places nooned on the river. Left the river come three miles after starting Camped in the desert without wood water or grass made 15 miles
Friday 21st Moving by daylight struck the river at ½ past 8 A.M. where we rested an hour. Come to Lassen’s Meadow at noon where we encamped for the night. Made 8 miles.
Saturday 22nd Bid the Humboldt a final farewell this morning glad to leave in safety a river so noted for peril. Started on the desert to try its dread realities stopped long enough to eat dinner and arrived at Antelope Springs by 2 P.M. These springs have been nicely fitted up for emigrants and much pains taken with them. Mag and I visited some graves on the hillside two women buried near the same time, it seems hard to [bid] earth & friends farewell so near the land of gold yet “He doeth all things well.” Drive 2 miles to grass where we encamped for the night. Made 14 miles.
Sunday [September] 23rd. Left camped after 8 A.M. had a hilly road all morning and in the evening very dusty through the barrens, arrived at Rabbit Hole springs at 4 P.M. This is a beautiful country place and were it surrounded by good country would be a noted place of resort. As it is there is nothing but a barren sandy desert uninviting to man or beast. Took supper and left at 8 P.M. to the Hot Springs. Stopped at midnight and rested until morning. Made 22 miles.
Monday 24th Moving by daylight, took breakfast at 11 A.M. rested some three hours and arrived at Hot Springs at 4 P.M. We were bitterly disappointed when we arrived here finding neither grass nor water fit to use. Left at midnight.
Tuesday 25th The breaking of morn found us at Granite Creek having drove constantly since midnight Here we took breakfast and rested until 2 P.M. We found no water fit to drink, and arrived at the Boiling Springs at 4 P.M. here we encamped for the night. These springs are some of nature’s most wonderful works, while they seethe and hiss in their caldrons man stands and trembles at the mighty works of God. You can peer faraway in the depths of the water, see the jutting rocks and hear the gurgling of water, yet one feels a relief when they turn away from a vision so terrible, a feeling of security comes over them that they did not feel while gazing into their boiling depths. Made tea & coffee of the water but no one could drink it it was so very salty.
Wednesday 26th En route for Deep Hole Springs by daylight arrived there at 9 A.M. distance 7 miles over a rough barren country. Took breakfast and I am sure everybody did it justice having had little or nothing since leaving Granite Creek. There is excellent water here and a nice camp ground for tired and worn out stock and wearied man.
Thursday 27th Left camp early for Buffalo Springs. Struck the desert soon after starting. Nooned at Moore’s cut off. The road was rough in the afternoon and cold winds accompanied by rain blew in our faces all evening rendering every thing very disagreeable Camped in swale to the left of the road plenty of grass but no water Made 14 miles.
Friday 28th Drove some 2 miles to Buffalo springs where we watered everything, nooned at the foot of the mountains on Smoke Creek. Our road lay over mountains, some heavy sand hills and a good many stones in the road. Come into the canon where the sides of the mountains were steep and almost perpendicular it made me think of where I dreaded canons and the feeling of dread still come over me for there was only a narrow road wide enough for one wagon. Camped in a valley surrounded by mountains. Two Piute Indians stayed all night with us Made 14 miles.
Saturday 29th Morning chill and murky made 4 miles to Rush Creek where we nooned. Over the mountains into Rush Creek canon a rough road into the valley where we encamped for the night. Made 8 miles.
Sunday [September] 30th The sun rose beautifully clear this morning and we were moving early for Mud Springs the road in many places rough arrived there at 10 A.M. Tomorrow we expect to get to Honey Lake and we will be coming out of the wilderness sure enough I for one will be very much rejoiced The roughest road I ever come over, I never was so tired of jolting in all my life, camped among the sage without grass or water. Made 16 miles.
Monday October 1st Were moving before daylight the morning very cold, ice in the wash pan. this is October sure enough. The road rough and tiresome I was glad to see Honey Lake Valley in the distance. It is a beautiful place.
Note written on a separate sheet of paper— As if to describe a photograph:
Adobe house, on Grandfather [?] Moore’s land near Vina Arrows in walls.
Editor’s note: The diary ends with their arrival at Honey Lake. The way followed from there was the Nobles’ Route over the Sierra, through the Nobles’ Pass and around the north slope of Mount Lassen to the headwaters of the Sacramento River. They settled near Vina just south of Red Bluff.
1Edward Norris Wentworth, America’s Sheep Trails (Ames, Iowa, 1948), pp. 138, 169.
2(Topeka, Kansas, 1972), p. 1095.
3Wentworth, op. cit.
4Quoted in Paul W. Gates, (California Ranchos anti Farms, (Madison, Wise., 1967), p. 190.
5This comment is found in a typescript accompanying the handwritten diary in the Vale collection.
1Walter Scott, “The Lady of the Lake,” Canto 1.”
2Genesis 3:19.
3Thomas Campbell, “Pleasures of Hope.”
4Brigadier General William Shelby Harney was in charge of the Department of Oregon from 1858 to 1860, when he was given charge of the Department of the West, stationed in St. Louis. Dictionary of American History, VIII (New York, 1932 ), pp. 280-281. Howard McKinley Corning, Dictionary of Oregon History (PortIand, 1956), p. 107.
5Unidentified
6This was the first year of the Pony Express, the life-span of which was only 18½ months. The classic reference for the Pony Express is Waddell F. Smith’s The Story of the Pony Express, published by the Pony Express History and Art Gallery (San Rafael, CA, 1964). See also Rowe Findley,” A Bukaroo Stew of Fact and Legend, The Pony Express,” National Geographic, Vol. 158, No. 1 (July, 1980 ) pp. 45–71. Fred. Reinfield, Pony Express (Lincoln N E, 1966).
7This was the current term for anthrax.
8Campbell, op. cit.
9Ibid.
10Unidentified.
11Colonel Fredrick West Lander had surveyed and put in a great deal of work on a road from South Pass to City of Rocks during his service with the Army Engineers from 1857–1859. His description of the route in an Emigrants Guide in 1859 is quoted as follows in W. Turrentine Jackson, Wagon Roads West (Berkeley, 1952), pp. 207–208:
You must remember that this new road has been recently graded, and is not yet trodden down; and, with the exception of the grass, water, wood, shortened distance, no tolls, fewer hard pulls and descents, and avoiding the desert, will not be the first season as easy for heavily loaded wagons as the old road, and not until a large migration has passed over it.
All stock drivers should take it at once. All parties whose stock is in bad order should take it, and I believe the migration should take it, and will be much better satisfied with it, even the first season, than with the old road.
See also E. Douglas Branch, “ Frederick West Lander, Road-Builder” Mississippi Valley Hist. Rev. XVI (Sept., 1929), pp. 172–187.
12Kinnikinnick is an eastern Indian word meaning something that can be smoked. It could be tobacco, sumac bark, red dogwood bark. There is a plant called by that term, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, a small trailing shrub with reddish bark and leathery leaves. It is related to the manzanita. Leslie L. Haskin, Wild Flowers of the Pacific Coast (Portland, 1934 ), pp. 261–263.
13Unidentified.
14Col. Marshall Saxe Howe of the 2nd Dragoons had been stationed at several forts in the West over a number of years. In the late 1840’s as a Major he was in charge of the American fort at Albuquerque, and during the late 1850’s was, as a Colonel, in charge of Camp Floyd near Provo, Utah. He was now stationed at Fort Hall near the confluence of the Portneuf and Snake River. Frank McNitt, Navaho Expedition, the Journal of a Military Reconnaissance from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to the Navaho Country Made in 1849 by Lieutenant James H. Simpson (Norman, OK, 1964), pp. 151–154 ; Harold D. Langley, To Utah with the Dragoons (Salt Lake City, 1974), pp. 111–113.
15The Harrington party was another name for the Miltimore company; 19 persons led by Edwin A. Miltimore and Milton S. Harrington. There were six men, three women, and ten children. On A ugust 31, 1859, they were attacked about 25 miles west of Fort Hall. Martha Moore says that nine of them were killed. According to Brigham D. Madsen, in The Shoshoni Frontier and the Bear River Massacre (Salt Lake City, 1985), pp. 105–6 , 249, eight died in the melee. There is some evidence that a few renegade white men took part in the attack, although it is doubtful that any of them were Mormons. Milton S. Harrington survived and later made a deposition telling of the attack. Those who survived turned back and returned to their home state, Wisconsin. Larry R. Jones, Historian of the Idaho Historical Society, Boise, has been helpful in pointing out this reference to us. Madsen’s shook is exceptional as a source on Indian-White conflict in Southern Idaho.
16They did not turn off onto the Hudspeth cut-off, which had been used and named by Benoni Morgan Hudspeth and his brothers in 1849. Mrs. Paul Campbell, “ Benoni Morgan Hudspeth,” Idaho Yesterdays, Vol. 12 , No. 3 (Fall 1968), pp. 9–13.
17Will Hudspeth was a cousin of Benoni Hudspeth, for whom see footnote 16 above.
18We have corresponded with and talked on the telephone with Thomas H. Hunt, the author of Ghost Trails to California (Palo Alto, 1974), about the meaning of this word and agree with him that she means "Maggie Creek.” Whether she heard it wrong or saw it in writing that was incorrect we don’t know.