Chapter 5: Settling into Denver

It’s no accident that Denver is called “the Mile High City”: When you climb up to the State Capitol, you’re precisely 5,280 feet above sea level when you reach the 13th step. Denver’s location at this altitude was purely coincidental; Denver is one of the few cities not built on an ocean, a lake, a navigable river, or even (at the time) an existing road or railroad.

In the summer of 1858, eager prospectors discovered a few flecks of gold where Cherry Creek empties into the shallow South Platte River, and a tent camp quickly sprang up on the site. (The first permanent structure was a saloon.) When militia Gen. William H. Larimer arrived in 1859, he claim-jumped the land on the east side of the Platte, laid out a city, and, hoping to curry political favors, named it after James Denver, governor of the Kansas Territory, which included this area. The plan didn’t exactly work: Larimer was not aware that Denver had recently resigned.

Larimer’s was one of several settlements on the South Platte. Three others also sought recognition, but Larimer had a solution. For the price of a barrel of whiskey, he bought out the other would-be town fathers, and the name “Denver” caught on.

Although the gold found in Denver was but a teaser for much larger strikes in the nearby mountains, the community grew as a shipping and trade center, in part because it had a milder climate than the mining towns it served. A devastating fire in 1863, a deadly flash flood in 1864, and American Indian hostilities in the late 1860s created hardship, but the establishment of rail links to the east and the influx of silver from the rich mines to the west kept Denver going. Silver from Leadville and gold from Cripple Creek made Denver a showcase city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The U.S. Mint, built in 1906, established Denver as a banking and financial center.

In the years following World War II, Denver mushroomed to become the largest city between the Great Plains and the Pacific Coast, with almost 600,000 residents within the city limits and over three million in the metropolitan area. It remains a growing city, with a booming downtown and suburbs. Denver is noted for its tree-lined boulevards, 200 city parks that cover more than 20,000 acres, and architecture ranging from Victorian to postmodern.

Orientation

Arriving

By Plane

Denver International Airport (DIA) is 23 miles northeast of downtown, usually a 35- to 45-minute drive. Covering 53 square miles (twice the size of Manhattan), DIA has one of the tallest flight-control towers in the world, at 327 feet. The airport, which has 95 gates and six full-service runways, can handle around 50 million passengers annually.

Major national airlines serving Denver include American, Continental, Delta, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest, United, and US Airways. International airlines include Air Canada, British Airways, Lufthansa, and Mexicana de Aviación.

Regional and commuter airlines connecting Denver with other points in the Rockies and Southwest include Alaska Airlines and Great Lakes Airlines.

To find out which airlines travel to Denver and Colorado Springs, please see “Airline & Car-Rental Websites.”

For other information, call the Denver International Airport information line ( 800/AIR-2-DEN [247-2336] or 303/342-2000; TDD 800/688-1333; www.flydenver.com). Other important airport phone numbers include ground transportation, 303/342-4059; lost and found, 303/342-4062; paging, 303/342-2300; parking, 303/342-7275; police, 303/342-4211; and security wait times, 303/342-8477.

Getting To & From the Airport Bus, taxi, and limousine services shuttle travelers between the airport and downtown, and most major car-rental companies have outlets at the airport. Because many major hotels are some distance from the airport, travelers should check on the availability and cost of hotel shuttle services when making reservations.

The city bus fare from the airport to downtown Denver is $10; from the airport to Boulder and suburban Park-n-Ride lots, it is about $12. The SuperShuttle ( 800/525-3177 or 303/370-1300; www.supershuttle.com) provides transportation to and from a number of hotels downtown and in the Denver Tech Center. The SuperShuttle has frequent scheduled service between the airport and downtown hotels for $19 per person each way; door-to-door service is also available for $23 and up, depending on the zip code of your point of departure. Taxi companies (see “Getting Around,” below) are another option, with fares generally in the $30-to-$50 range, and you can often share a cab and split the fare by calling the cab company ahead of time. For instance, Yellow Cab ( 303/777-7777; www.yellowtrans.com) will take up to five people from DIA to most downtown hotels for a flat rate of $45.

By Car

Denver & Environs

The principal highway routes into Denver are I-25 from the north (Fort Collins and Wyoming) and south (Colorado Springs and New Mexico), I-70 from the east (Burlington and Kansas) and west (Grand Junction and Utah), and I-76 from the northeast (Nebraska). If you’re driving into Denver from Boulder, take U.S. 36; from Salida and southwest, U.S. 285.

By Train

Amtrak serves Union Station, 17th and Wynkoop streets ( 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245] or 303/825-2583; www.amtrak.com), in the lower downtown historic district. Denver is a stop for the California Zephyr (Chicago to Emeryville, California); there is one train daily in each direction.

By Bus

Greyhound, 1055 19th St. (at Arapahoe St.; 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com), is the major bus service in Colorado, with about 60 daily arrivals and departures to communities in and out of the state.

Visitor Information

The Denver Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau operates a visitor center on the 16th Street Mall at 1600 California St. ( 303/892-1505). It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm. In summer, it is open until 6pm on weekdays, as well as on Saturdays from 9am to 5pm and Sundays from 11am to 3pm. Visitor information is also available at Denver International Airport. Ask for the Official Visitors Guide, a 150-plus-page full-color booklet with a comprehensive listing of accommodations, restaurants, and other visitor services in Denver and surrounding areas.

For advance information, contact the Denver Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1555 California St., Suite 300, Denver, CO 80202-4264 ( 800/233-6837 or 303/892-1112; www.denver.org).

City Layout

It’s tough to get lost in Denver—just remember that the mountains, nearly always visible, are to the west. Nonetheless, getting around a city of half a million people can be a challenge. One element of confusion is that Denver has both an older grid system downtown, which is oriented northeast-southwest to parallel the South Platte River, and a newer north-south grid system that surrounds the older one.

The Official Visitors Guide, available free of charge from the Denver Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau (see “Visitor Information,” above), contains a good map.

Main Arteries & Streets

It’s probably easiest to get your bearings from Civic Center Park. From here, Colfax Avenue (U.S. 40) extends east and west as far as the eye can see. The same is true for Broadway, which reaches north and south.

Downtown Denver North of Colfax and west of Broadway is the center of downtown, where the streets follow the old grid pattern. A mile-long pedestrian mall, 16th Street, cuts northwest off Broadway just above this intersection. (The numbered streets parallel 16th to the northeast, extending to 44th; and to the southwest, as far as 5th.) Intersecting the numbered streets at right angles are Lawrence Street (which runs one-way northeast) and Larimer Street (which runs one-way southwest), 12 and 13 blocks north, respectively, of the Colfax-Broadway intersection.

I-25 skirts downtown Denver to the west, with access from Colfax or Speer Boulevard, which winds diagonally along Cherry Creek past Larimer Square.

Outside Downtown Outside the downtown sector, the pattern is a little less confusing. But keep in mind that the numbered avenues that parallel Colfax to the north and south (Colfax is equivalent to 15th Ave.) have nothing in common with the numbered streets of the downtown grid. In fact, any byway labeled an “avenue” runs east-west, never north-south.

Finding an Address

North-South Arteries The thoroughfare that divides avenues into east and west is Broadway, which runs one-way south between 19th Street and I-25. Each block east or west adds 100 to the avenue address; thus, if you wanted to find 2115 E. 17th Ave., it would be a little more than 21 blocks east of Broadway, just beyond Vine Street.

Main thoroughfares that parallel Broadway to the east include Downing Street (1200 block), York Street (2300 block; it becomes University Boulevard south of 6th), Colorado Boulevard (4000 block), Monaco Street Parkway (6500 block), and Quebec Street (7300 block). Colorado Boulevard (Colo. 2) is the busiest street in the whole state, intersecting I-25 on the south and I-70 on the north. North-south streets that parallel Broadway to the west include Santa Fe Drive (U.S. 85; 1000 block); west of I-25 are Federal Boulevard (U.S. 287 N.; 3000 block) and Sheridan Boulevard (Colo. 95; 5200 block), the boundary between Denver and Lakewood.

East-West Arteries Denver streets are divided into north and south at Ellsworth Avenue, about 2 miles south of Colfax. Ellsworth is a relatively minor street, but it’s a convenient dividing point because it’s just a block south of 1st Avenue. With building numbers increasing by 100 each block, that puts an address like 1710 Downing St. at the corner of East 17th Avenue. First, 6th, Colfax (1500 block), and 26th avenues, and Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard (3200 block) are the principal east-west thoroughfares. There are no numbered avenues south of Ellsworth. Major east-west byways south of Ellsworth are Alameda (Colo. 26; 300 block), Mississippi (1100 block), Louisiana (1300 block), Evans (2100 block), Yale (2700 block), and Hampden avenues (U.S. 285; 3500 block).

Neighborhoods in Brief

Denver Neighborhoods

A 25-block area surrounding Union Station, and encompassing Wynkoop Street southeast to Market Street and 20th Street southwest to Speer Boulevard, this delightful and busy historic district was until recently a somewhat seedy neighborhood of deteriorating Victorian houses and redbrick warehouses. A major restoration effort has brought it back to life. Today it is home to chic shops, art galleries, nightclubs, and restaurants. Listed as both a city and a county historic district, it boasts numerous National Historic Landmarks; skyscrapers are prohibited by law. Coors Field, the 50,000-seat home of the Rockies baseball team, opened here in 1995.

Central Business District

This extends along 16th, 17th, and 18th streets between Lawrence Street and Broadway. The ban on skyscrapers certainly does not apply here. In this area you’ll find the Brown Palace Hotel, the Westin Hotel at Tabor Center, and other upscale lodgings; numerous restaurants and bars; plus the popular 16th Street Mall.

Far East Center

Denver’s Asian community is concentrated along this strip of Federal Boulevard, between West Alameda and West Mississippi avenues. It burgeoned in the aftermath of the Vietnam War to accommodate throngs of Southeast Asian refugees, especially Thai and Vietnamese. Look for authentic restaurants, bakeries, groceries, gift shops, and clothing stores. The Far East Center Building at Federal and Alameda is built in Japanese pagoda style.

Five Points

The “five points” actually meet at 23rd Street and Broadway, but the cultural and commercial hub of Denver’s black community, from 23rd to 38th streets, northeast of downtown, covers a much larger area and incorporates four historic districts. Restaurants serve soul food, barbecued ribs, and Caribbean cuisine, while jazz and blues musicians and contemporary dance troupes perform in theaters and nightclubs. The Black American West Museum and Heritage Center is also in this area.

Highlands

Perched northwest of downtown from 32nd to 38th avenues between Federal and Zuni streets, the historic, increasingly chic Highlands neighborhood is the most densely populated neighborhood in the city outside of Capitol Hill. Mexican and Italian eateries brush elbows with stylish boutiques and galleries. In the neighboring West Highlands neighborhood, the eclectic retail district centered on 32nd Avenue and Lowell Boulevard is one of the most vibrant in the city.

La Alma Lincoln Park/Auraria

Latino culture, art, food, and entertainment predominate along this strip of Santa Fe Drive, between West Colfax and West 6th avenues. It’s notable for its southwestern character and architecture. This neighborhood is well worth a visit for its numerous restaurants, art galleries, and crafts shops. Denver’s annual Cinco de Mayo celebration takes place here.

Uptown

Denver’s oldest residential neighborhood, from Broadway east to York Street (City Park) and 23rd Avenue south to Colfax Avenue, is best known today for two things: It’s bisected by 17th Avenue, home to many of the city’s finest restaurants, and several of its classic Victorian and Queen Anne–style homes have been converted to captivating bed-and-breakfasts (see “Where to Stay,” below).

Washington Park

A grand Victorian neighborhood centered on the lush park of its namesake, “Wash Park” is one of Denver’s trendiest and most popular neighborhoods. Bounded by Broadway east to University Boulevard, and Alameda Avenue south to Evans Avenue, it features a good deal of dining and recreational opportunities, but little in the way of lodging. It is a great place, however, for architecture and history buffs to drive or walk past the grand rows of houses.

Capitol Hill

One of Denver’s most diverse and oldest neighborhoods lies just southeast of downtown. Capitol Hill centers on the gold-domed Capitol Building, encompassing Broadway east to York, and Colfax Avenue south to 6th Avenue. The north edge is improving after years of neglect and criminal activity, and now features such attractions as the Fillmore Auditorium and a lively restaurant-and-bar scene. There are several commercial and retail districts in the area, nestled amid Victorian houses and modern lofts and apartments. Also here are the Molly Brown House Museum (see chapter 6) and several lodging options, ranging from B&Bs to luxury hotels (see “Where to Stay,” below). You’ll notice that there are no old wooden buildings here. After a disastrous fire in 1863, the government forbade the construction of wooden structures, a ban that stood until after World War II.

Cherry Creek

Home of the Cherry Creek Shopping Center and Denver Country Club, this area extends north from East 1st Avenue to East 8th Avenue, and from Downing Street east to Steele Street. You’ll find huge, ostentatious stone mansions here, especially around Circle Drive (southwest of 6th and University), where many of Denver’s wealthiest families have lived for generations.

Glendale

Denver surrounds Glendale, an incorporated city. The center of a lively entertainment district that is home to a slew of topless clubs, Glendale straddles Cherry Creek on South Colorado Boulevard south of East Alameda Avenue.

Tech Center

At the southern end of the metropolitan area is the Denver Tech Center, along I-25 between Belleview Avenue and Arapahoe Road. In this district, about a 25-minute drive from downtown, you will find the headquarters of several international and national companies, high-tech businesses, and a handful of upscale hotels heavily oriented toward business travelers.

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

The Regional Transportation District, or RTD ( 800/366-7433 or 303/299-6000, for route and schedule information; www.rtd-denver.com), calls itself “The Ride.” It operates bus routes and a light-rail system, with free transfer tickets available. It provides good service within Denver and its suburbs and outlying communities (including Boulder, Longmont, and Evergreen), as well as free parking at more than 60 Park-n-Ride locations throughout the Denver-Boulder metropolitan area. The light-rail service is designed to get buses and cars out of congested downtown Denver; many of the bus routes from outlying areas deliver passengers to light-rail stations rather than to downtown.

The local one-way fare is $2; seniors and passengers with disabilities pay $1, and children age 5 and under travel free. Regional bus fares vary (for example, Denver to Boulder costs $4.50). Exact change is required for buses, and train tickets can be purchased at vending machines beneath light-rail station awnings.

Depending on the route, the departure time of the last bus or train varies from 9pm to 2am. Maps for all routes are available at any time at the RTD Civic Center Station, 16th Street and Broadway; and the Market Street Station, Market and 16th streets. RTD also provides special service to Colorado Rockies (baseball) and Denver Broncos (football) games. All RTD buses and trains are completely wheelchair accessible.

Free buses run up and down the 16th Street Mall between the Civic Center and Market Street, daily from 6am to 1am.

The light rail is also useful for exploring downtown and the greater metro area. The C Line diverts from the main north-south D Line at Colfax Avenue, and it veers west and stops at Invesco Field at Mile High, the Pepsi Center, and Six Flags Elitch Gardens before chugging into Union Station at 17th and Wynkoop streets in lower downtown. The D Line continues along northeast through the east side of downtown before its terminus at 30th Avenue and Downing Street. The E Line runs along I-25 from Broadway to Lincoln Avenue in the south suburbs. The F Line connects 18th and California streets downtown with Lincoln Avenue. The G Line runs from Nine Mile in Aurora at I-225 and Parker Road to Lincoln; the H Line connects Nine Mile and 18th and California.

In 2010, the city installed numerous B-Cycle kiosks (www.bcycle.com), which rent bicycles for a $5 daily fee plus fees for how long you use the bike before returning it to another kiosk. Check on the website for the kiosk locations—they are often right in front of prominent attractions, making this a viable means of getting from one place to another in the city.

The open-air Platte Valley Trolley ( 303/458-6255; www.denvertrolley.org) operates year-round. From April to October between noon and 3:30pm Friday through Sunday, there’s a 25-minute “Riverfront Ride” ($4 adults, $2 children), which operates from 15th Street at Confluence Park, south to the Denver Children’s Museum along the west bank of the Platte River. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, the ride is also available on Mondays. Different routes are offered at other times.

By Taxi

The main companies are Yellow Cab ( 303/777-7777; www.yellowtrans.com), Union Taxi ( 303/321-9000; www.uniontaxidenver.net), and Metro Taxi ( 303/333-3333; www.metrotaxidenver.com). Taxis can be hailed on the street, though it’s preferable to telephone for a taxi or to wait for one at a taxi stand outside a major hotel. On weekends, hailing a taxi can be difficult when the bars close down for the night.

By Car

Because cars are not necessary downtown, visitors can save money by staying downtown while in Denver, and then renting a car to leave the area.

The Denver office of the American Automobile Association (AAA) is at 4100 E. Arkansas Ave., Denver, CO 80222-3405 ( 800/222-4357 or 303/753-8800; www.aaacolorado.com); there are several other locations in the Denver area.

Car Rentals Most major car-rental agencies have outlets in or near downtown Denver, as well as at Denver International Airport. These include Avis, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National/Alamo, and Thrifty.

Per-day rentals for midsize cars range from $35 to $70, although AAA and other discounts are often available, and weekend and multiday rates can also save money. Four-wheel-drive vehicles, trucks, and campers cost more.

Parking Downtown parking-lot rates vary from around $1 per half-hour to $20 or more per full day. Rates are higher near the 16th Street Mall, in the central business district, and in hotel lots. Keep a handful of quarters available if you plan to use on-street parking meters.

Denver

American Express The American Express travel agency, 555 17th St. ( 303/383-5050), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. It offers full member services and currency exchange. To report a lost card, call 800/528-4800; to report lost traveler’s checks, call 800/221-7282.

Area Code Area codes are 303 and 720, and local calls require 10-digit dialing.

Babysitters Front desks at major hotels can often arrange for babysitters for their guests.

Business Hours Generally, business offices are open weekdays from 9am to 5pm and government offices are open from 8am until 4:30 or 5pm. Stores are open 6 days a week, with many also open on Sunday; department stores usually stay open until 9pm at least 1 day a week. Discount stores and supermarkets are often open later than other stores, and some supermarkets are open 24 hours a day.

Banks are usually open weekdays from 9am to 5pm, occasionally a bit later on Friday, and sometimes on Saturday. There’s 24-hour access to automated teller machines (ATMs) at most banks, plus in many shopping centers and other outlets.

Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” above.

Dentists & Doctors Dentist and doctor referrals are available by calling 800/DOCTORS (362-8677). Ask-A-Nurse Centura ( 303/777-6877) provides free physician referrals and answers health questions.

Drugstores Throughout the metropolitan area, you will find Walgreens and other chain pharmacies, as well as Safeway and King Soopers grocery stores (which also have drugstores). The Walgreens at 2000 E. Colfax Ave. ( 303/331-0917) is open 24 hours a day. For the locations of other Walgreens, call 800/925-4733.

Emergencies Call 911. For the Colorado Poison Center, call 303/739-1123. For the Rape Crisis and Domestic Violence Hotline, call 303/318-9989.

Eyeglasses One-hour replacements and repairs are available at LensCrafters, in the Cherry Creek Shopping Center ( 303/321-8331).

Hospitals Among Denver-area hospitals are St. Joseph Hospital, 1835 Franklin St. ( 303/837-7111), just east of downtown, and Children’s Hospital, 13123 E. 16th Ave. ( 720/777-1234).

Maps The flagship REI, 1416 Platte St., Denver ( 303/756-3100), offers USGS and recreation maps, along with some state maps and travel guides.

Newspapers & Magazines The Denver Post (www.denverpost.com) is Colorado’s largest daily newspaper, and Denver’s only daily since the Rocky Mountain News folded in 2009. A widely read free weekly, Westword (www.westword.com) is known as much for its coverage of local politicians and celebrities and its entertainment and dining listings. National newspapers such as USA Today and the Wall Street Journal can be purchased at newsstands and at major hotels.

Photographic Needs For photographic supplies, equipment, 1-hour processing, and repairs, visit Wolf Camera at one of its 18 Denver locations; the downtown branch, at 1545 California St. ( 303/623-1155; www.wolfcamera.com), claims to be the biggest single-floor camera store in the world. Another good source for photo supplies and film processing is Mike’s Camera, 759 S. Colorado Blvd. ( 303/733-2121; www.mikescamera.com).

Post Office The main downtown post office, 951 20th St., is open Monday through Friday from 7am to 10:30pm, Saturday and Sunday from 8:30am to 10:30pm. For full 24-hour postal service, go to the General Mail Facility, 7500 E. 53rd Place. For other post office locations and hours, check with the U.S. Postal Service ( 800/275-8777; www.usps.com).

Safety Although Denver is a relatively safe city, it is not crime-free. Safety is seldom a problem on the 16th Street Mall, but even streetwise Denverites avoid late-night walks along certain sections of Colfax Avenue, just a few blocks away. If you are unsure of the safety of a particular area you wish to visit, ask your hotel concierge or desk clerk.

Taxes State and local sales tax in Denver is about 7.75% (it varies slightly in neighboring counties and suburbs). The hotel tax is 10.75%, bringing the total tax on accommodations to about 18.5%.

Useful Telephone Numbers For a weather report, time, and temperature, call 303/337-2500. Statewide road condition reports are available at 303/639-1111. For information on possible road construction delays in the Denver area and statewide, see www.cotrip.org.

Where to Stay

Denver Accommodations

Although most hotels and motels in the Denver area do not have seasonal rates (as you’ll find in many other parts of Colorado), hotels that cater to business travelers, such as the Brown Palace and the Warwick (see below), often offer substantial weekend discounts, sometimes as much as 50% off the regular rates. Rates listed below do not include the 18.5% accommodations tax.

The lodging industry is catching up with the construction of Denver International Airport, and you’ll find that many of the major chains and franchises have built or are in the process of constructing facilities near the airport—there’s also a proposed hotel at the terminal itself. Among those now open are Courtyard by Marriott at DIA, 6901 Tower Rd., Denver, CO 80249 ( 800/321-2211 or 303/371-0300), with rates of $219 to $249 for a double, lower on weekends; and Hampton Inn DIA, 6290 Tower Rd., Denver, CO 80249 ( 800/426-7866 or 303/371-0200), with a rate of $119 to $159 for a double.

Reliable (and relatively inexpensive hotels) in the downtown area include Comfort Inn, 401 17th St., Denver, CO 80202 ( 800/228-5150 or 303/296-0400), with a convenient location and rates of $149 for a double and $189 and up for a suite; Hilton Garden Inn Downtown, 1400 Welton St., Denver, CO 80202 ( 800/782-9444 or 303/603-8000), which charges $99 to $199 for a double; and immediately adjacent to the Broncos home, Invesco Field, Hotel VQ, 1975 Mile High Stadium Circle (at I-25, exit 210B), Denver, CO 80204 ( 800/388-5381 or 303/433-8331) offers rates of $99 for a double.

These official, or “rack,” rates, do not include any discounts, such as those offered to members of AAA or AARP. Be sure to ask if you qualify for a reduced rate. Because a chain hotel’s national reservation service may not be able to offer discounts, your best bet may be to call the hotel directly.

Downtown

Hotels in downtown Denver, “the central business district of the Rocky Mountain West,” generally cater to businesspeople, with high-tech amenities and locations convenient to the Convention Center or the financial district. These properties are more than adequate for leisure travelers, and especially enticing on weekends when they lower their rates.

Very Expensive

Brown Palace Hotel & Spa ★★ Operating continuously for more than 100 years, the city’s finest hotel has been the place to stay for anyone who is anyone. It combines elegant and comfortable rooms and a nice list of amenities with all the intangibles: interesting history, romantic atmosphere, regional personality, and impeccable service. Designed with a unique triangular shape by the renowned architect Frank Edbrooke, it was built of Colorado red granite and Arizona sandstone. The lobby’s walls are paneled with Mexican onyx, and elaborate cast-iron grillwork surrounds six tiers of balconies up to the stained-glass ceiling. Just about every president of the last century has visited the hotel, and Dwight Eisenhower made the Brown his home away from the White House. His former room, now known as the Eisenhower Suite, is a vision of stately elegance, with a preserved dent in the fireplace trim that is the alleged result of Ike’s errant golf swing. There are also lavish, unique suites named after Teddy Roosevelt, Ronald Reagan, and the Beatles.

Standard rooms are also classic and comfortable, either Victorian or Art Deco in style with reproduction furnishings and fixtures. Each has a desk, a duvet, and a flatscreen TV. The clientele is a mix of leisure travelers and businesspeople with a taste—and a budget—for luxury. The staterooms on the eighth and ninth floors, dubbed “The Top of the Brown,” are especially enticing, with all sorts of extra perks. The water is great here: The Brown Palace has its own artesian wells that feed not only the fountains and taps but the resident spa!

321 17th St., Denver, CO 80202. 800/321-2599 or 303/297-3111. Fax 303/312-5900. www.brownpalace.com. 241 units. $170–$410 double; $240–$1,400 suite. Lower weekend rates. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $26. Pets up to 20 lb. accepted. Amenities: 3 restaurants (all American; see “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter); 2 lounges; concierge; exercise room; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free in lobby only). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi ($10 per day).

On the Hoof

If you’re in town for the National Western Stock Show, make sure to visit the Brown Palace Hotel for a study in contrasts—the champion steer is traditionally corralled in the lobby during one of the event’s final mornings.

Four Seasons Hotel Denver ★★★ The long-awaited Four Seasons joined the upper echelon of downtown Denver’s lodging market the moment it opened in fall 2010. Eschewing Western elegance for contemporary style, the hotel, occupying the first 16 floors of a gleaming new 45-story tower, exudes class in every detail, from the grained wood paneling to the stacked slate and shiny marble, not to mention 1,200 works of art, 90% of it by local artists. The corner rooms are larger, with oval tubs in the memorable bathrooms, but even the standard rooms offer plenty of comfort and luxury, with mellow hues and sleek furnishings. Among the standout perks: the lushly landscaped third-floor pool terrace, a sizable spa, and massive guest room windows showcasing terrific views of the city. Then there’s the trademark Four Seasons service, among the best in the industry.

1111 14th St., Denver, CO 80202. 303/389-3000. Fax 303/389-3333. www.fourseasons.com/denver. 239 units. $335–$395 double; from $475 suite. Lower weekend rates. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $28. Small pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (steaks); lounge; concierge; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking stations, Wi-Fi (fee-based usage).

Hotel Monaco ★★ Billing itself as “Denver’s hippest high-style luxury hotel,” the Hotel Monaco is a standout for Kimpton Hotels. With eye-catching interiors inspired equally by Art Deco and French design, the hotel occupies a pair of renovated historic buildings in the heart of the central business district. This is one of the few downtown hotels that is 100% pet-friendly—the staff even delivers guests a named goldfish upon request. Rooms have a rich style, equal parts sinful red and snazzy yellow, with perks such as CD stereos; plush, animal-print robes; and Starbucks coffee. With jetted tubs and wet bars, the generously sized suites are even more luxurious. You might bump into a celebrity here—the Monaco is a favorite of pro sports teams, rock bands, and Hollywood types. Another perk is the nightly “Altitude Adjustment Hour” in the lobby, where guests enjoy complimentary wine and munchies along with free chair massages from employees of the resident spa and appetizers from Panzano.

1717 Champa St. (at 17th St.), Denver, CO 80202. 800/397-5380 or 303/296-1717. Fax 303/296-1818. www.monaco-denver.com. 189 units. $170–$310 double; from $260 suite. Call for weekend rates. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $28 (hybrids $14). Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (Panzano; see “Where to Dine,” later in this chapter); lounge; concierge; exercise room; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Teatro ★★ Hotel Teatro is one of Denver’s most luxurious hotels. It’s also the most dramatic: The Denver Center for the Performing Arts (across the street) inspired the decor, which features masks, playbills, and wardrobes from past productions of its resident theater company. The hotel caters to both business and leisure travelers with light and airy guest rooms that hold Indonesian sandstone, cherrywood desks and fixtures, and comfy, marshmallow-like mattresses. The nine-story building is a historic landmark, constructed as the Denver Tramway Building in 1911. Cutting-edge perks include MP3 player docking stations and 36-inch plasma-screen TVs in each room. All rooms feature Aveda amenities and a rainforest shower head. Kevin Taylor, one of Denver’s best-known chefs, runs both restaurants and the room service.

1100 14th St. (at Arapahoe St.), Denver, CO 80202. 303/228-1100. Fax 303/228-1101. www.hotelteatro.com. 110 units. $200–$310 double; $290–$480 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $24 overnight. Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 restaurants (Italian, French); lounge; concierge; fitness center; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Hyatt Regency Denver ★★ The 37-story Hyatt Regency is the city’s crisp new convention center hotel, one of the biggest and best such properties in the Rockies and the first skyscraper to rise in downtown Denver since the early 1980s. With an ideal location—adjacent to the newly expanded Colorado Convention Center and its trademark “Blue Bear” sculpture—and a thorough, modern list of amenities, the Hyatt immediately emerged as the top convention hotel in the Rockies. Showcasing a terrific contemporary art collection with a local bent, the sleek lobby features automated check-in kiosks, the Altitude restaurant, and the Strata bar. On the 27th floor, another bar, Peaks Lounge, offers the best views downtown. In between, the hotel’s guest rooms are contemporary but comfortable, with plush furnishings and an ergonomic workstation. The suites are the biggest downtown, ranging from 500 square feet all the way up to 3,000 square feet.

650 15th St., Denver, CO 80202. 800/233-1234 or 303/436-1234. Fax 303/436-9102. www.denverregency.hyatt.com. 1,160 units. $125–$430 double; $550–$5,000 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Underground valet parking $24; self-parking $20. Amenities: Restaurant (steaks/seafood); 2 lounges; concierge; health club (weight room, cardiovascular machines); outdoor Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, fridge, Wi-Fi (free).

Ritz-Carlton, Denver ★★ The existing hotel near Coors Field and the business district was rebuilt to the exacting standards of the Ritz-Carlton, which opened in early 2008. It now features the brand’s distinctive style and a long list of perks for guests. The plush rooms—at 550 square feet—feature such amenities as steam-free mirrors, MP3-compatible clock radios, down comforters, and combination coffee/tea/cappuccino makers. Beyond the rooms, the lavish common areas lead the way to Elway’s, the downtown sibling to the Denver quarterbacking legend’s Cherry Creek steakhouse, a spa, and a fully equipped business center.

1881 Curtis St., Denver, CO 80202. 303/312-3800. Fax 303/312-3801. www.ritzcarlton.com. 250 units. $310–$430 double; $410–$1,200 suite. Weekend rates from $210. AE, DISC, MC, V. Underground valet parking $28; self-parking $15. Amenities: Restaurant (steaks); lounge; concierge; executive level; health club (weight room, cardiovascular machines, basketball court); indoor heated lap pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet ($10 per day).

Expensive

Burnsley All Suite Hotel ★★ Built as an apartment in 1963 but converted into a lodging by an ownership group that included Kirk Douglas and Ella Fitzgerald, this small, elegant hotel offers suites with private balconies and separate living, bedroom, dining, and fully stocked kitchen areas. The units are handsome, featuring marble entrance floors and antiques. The suites are expansive (averaging 700 sq. ft.) and popular with travelers who prefer to be a bit away from the hubbub of downtown. The hotel sits on a relatively quiet one-way street a few blocks southeast of the State Capitol. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner on weekdays, and breakfast and dinner on weekends. The lounge is a local favorite, a swank space with live jazz Friday and Saturday. The hotel is conveniently situated near the Cherry Creek shopping areas and is only 5 blocks from downtown.

1000 Grant St. (at E. 10th Ave.), Denver, CO 80203. 800/231-3915 or 303/830-1000. Fax 303/830-7676. www.burnsley.com. 80 suites. Summer $120–$220 double; winter $99–$199 double. Lower weekend rates available. AE, MC, V. Free covered parking. Amenities: Restaurant (Continental); lounge; outdoor heated pool (seasonal); room service. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

The Curtis, A Doubletree Hotel ★ A convention center lodging reimagined as a pop-culture-themed hotel, the Curtis reopened in 2007, with nostalgic board games in the lobby, floors with various themes (from “The Big Hair Floor” with art of oversize hairdos to “The 13th Floor,” the hallway graced by Jack Nicholson’s leering mug from The Shining), and wake-up calls by Darth Vader and Austin Powers sound-alikes. Featuring a toned-down version of the theme in the hallway, the rooms are modern and outfitted with techie perks like iPod-friendly speaker systems and flatscreen TVs. The staff has a sense of humor and there is a “5 & Dime” store selling toys and candy in the lobby. Corner rooms have fridges and great downtown views.

1405 Curtis St., Denver, CO 80202. 800/525-6651 or 303/572-3300. Fax 303/825-4301. www.thecurtis.com. 338 units. $180–$230 double; from $350 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $24; self-parking $15. Amenities: Restaurant (seafood); lounge; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Jet Hotel ★ This contemporary boutique hotel is one of the few lodging options in the lively LoDo neighborhood. Located in a historic redbrick, the property has undergone a metamorphosis in the new millennium: It’s sleek, smart, and contemporary, combining the personal service of a B&B with the conveniences of a full-service hotel. The guest rooms are studies in spare efficiency, with such amenities as CD and DVD players, unique art prints, and large armoires. Some rooms have private balconies and others have jetted tubs; the suite has a copper-topped table and a small kitchen. On weekend nights, the lobby morphs into a popular nightspot. The hotel is entirely nonsmoking.

1612 Wazee St., Denver, CO 80202. 303/572-3300. Fax 303/623-0773. www.thejethotel.com. 18 units. $99–$190 double; $200–$240 suite. Rates include complimentary continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10 and up in surrounding lots. Amenities: Restaurant (Thai); lounge; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Oxford Hotel ★ Designed by the architect Frank Edbrooke and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this is one of Denver’s few hotels to have survived from the 19th century (another being the Brown Palace, described above). The facade is simple red sandstone, but the interior boasts marble walls, stained-glass windows, frescoes, and silver chandeliers, all of which were restored between 1979 and 1983 using Edbrooke’s original drawings.

Antique pieces imported from England and France furnish the large rooms, which were created by combining smaller rooms during the restoration. No two units are alike (they’re either Art Deco or Western Victorian in style), but all are equipped with one king-size or queen-size bed, individual thermostats, dressing tables, and large closets.

An Art Deco gem, the Cruise Room Bar boasts perhaps the swankest cocktail atmosphere in Denver, and the spa is the largest in the area.

1600 17th St. (at Wazee St.), Denver, CO 80202. 800/228-5838 or 303/628-5400. Fax 303/628-5413. www.theoxfordhotel.com. 80 units. $180–$240 double; $280–$400 suite; presidential suite from $1,000. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $26. Amenities: Restaurant (McCormick’s Fish House & Bar; see “Where to Dine,” below); 2 lounges; exercise room; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

The Warwick ★★ One of five Warwicks in the United States (the others are in New York, San Francisco, Dallas, and Seattle), this handsome midsize choice boasts an exterior and rooms reminiscent of hotels in Paris, where the corporate office is located. In contrast, the earth-tone lobby stylishly reflects the region, with classic European design, contemporary Western furnishings, and slate and red-stone stonework. Similarly stylish, many rooms feature a full private balcony with a great city view, and all are equipped with a wet bar. Each has one king- or two full-size beds, contemporary mahogany furniture, floral prints on the walls, and plenty of space, with standard rooms averaging 450 square feet each. The 60 suites, which range from two-room parlor suites to grand luxury suites, are even more so.

1776 Grant St. (at E. 18th Ave.), Denver, CO 80203. 800/525-2888 or 303/861-2000. Fax 303/832-0320. www.warwickdenver.com. 279 units. $119–$229 double; $249–$1,000 suite. Lower weekend and winter rates. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $26. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; rooftop heated pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($11 per day).

Bed & Breakfasts

Those seeking an alternative to a hotel or motel might consider one of Denver’s many bed-and-breakfast inns. Often located in historic 19th-century homes, bed-and-breakfasts offer a more personalized lodging experience than you could expect in all but the very best hotels, because you rarely find more than 10 rooms in a B&B, and you are literally a guest in someone’s home.

Capitol Hill Mansion Bed & Breakfast ★★ Located on Denver’s “Mansion Row” just southeast of the State Capitol, this turreted B&B exemplifies Richardsonian Romanesque design with its ruby sandstone exterior and curving front porch. Built in 1891, the mansion is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and has the original woodwork and stained glass.

Recently enjoying a restoration of its distinctive exterior, the inn is outfitted for the 21st century, with refrigerators, color TVs, and Wi-Fi. Each individually decorated room is named after a Colorado wildflower; some feature two-person Jacuzzi tubs, fireplaces, and private balconies. The elegant Elk Thistle Suite, on the third floor, features a panoramic view of the Rockies, a claw-foot tub, and a kitchen. Honeymooners might enjoy the second-floor Shooting Star Balcony Room, which has a separate whirlpool tub and shower, and a private balcony with a city view.

Breakfasts include such items as crème brûlée French toast and jalapeño egg soufflé. Smoking is not permitted inside the inn.

1207 Pennsylvania St., Denver, CO 80203. 800/839-9329 outside 303 and 720 area codes, or 303/839-5221. www.capitolhillmansion.com. 8 units. $114–$199 double; $159–$199 suite. Rates include full breakfast and evening wine and refreshments. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Castle Marne Bed & Breakfast ★★ A National Historic Landmark, Castle Marne is an impressive stone fortress designed and built in 1889 by the renowned architect William Lang for a contemporary silver baron. It was so named because a subsequent owner’s son fought in the Battle of the Marne during World War I.

The inn is furnished with antiques, fine reproductions, and family heirlooms. Three rooms have private balconies with hot tubs. Three rooms have old-fashioned bathrooms with pedestal sinks and cast-iron claw-foot tubs. A gourmet breakfast (two seatings) is served in the original formal dining room, and a proper afternoon tea is served daily in the parlor. There are also a computer and printer for guest use. Smoking is not permitted, but well-behaved kids 11 and older are welcome.

1572 Race St., Denver, CO 80206. 800/92-MARNE (800/926-2763), or 303/331-0621 for reservations. Fax 303/331-0623. www.castlemarne.com. 9 units. $100–$250 double; $270 suite. Rates include full breakfast and afternoon tea. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. In room: A/C, Wi-Fi (free).

Lumber Baron ★ After buying this turreted mansion in Denver’s Highlands neighborhood on April Fools’ Day 1991, Walt Keller began a 4-year, $1.5-million renovation. Built in 1890 by lumber baron John Mouat (hence the name), the 8,500-square-foot house held many surprises: a myriad of ornate wood fixtures (cherry, poplar, maple, and oak, to name a few) and a once-hidden third-story ballroom under an ornate pyramidal dome. Featuring flatscreen TVs and jetted tubs, the rooms have antique furnishings from around the world and unique themes: The Honeymoon Suite has a neoclassical bent, a four-poster mahogany queen-size bed, and a gargantuan mirror; the Valentine Suite has a Far East motif, complete with historical photos and Persian wallpapering. For those seeking entertainment, the Lumber Baron hosts 50 “murder mystery parties” annually for $37 (dinner included; two-for-one pricing for guests), comedic events with a handful of actors among the 50 to 100 partygoers.

2555 W. 37th Ave., Denver, CO 80211. 303/477-8205. Fax 303/477-0269. www.lumberbaron.com. 3 units. $149 double; $199–$239 suite. Much lower weekday rates. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Queen Anne Bed & Breakfast Inn ★★ Under new ownership as of 2008, the Queen Anne consists of two Victorian houses: one built by the well-known architect Frank Edbrooke in 1879, and the other built in 1886. The inn now features a green bent with eco-friendly policies, local ingredients in the breakfasts, and sunny artworks. Each of the 10 double rooms in the 1879 Pierce-Tabor House is decorated with period antiques. Three rooms have original murals: All four walls of the Aspen Room are filled with (what else?) aspen trees; the third-floor Park Room overlooks a park and has a mural depicting the view that visitors would have seen in 1879; and the Rooftop Room has an outdoor hot-tub deck with a superb skyline view. Each of the four two-room suites in the adjacent 1886 Roberts house is dedicated to a famous local artist. The suites have deep soaking tubs, and the Remington suite has a hot tub. Half of the rooms have cable television. Located in the Clements Historic District, the Queen Anne borders downtown Denver and is within easy walking distance of the major attractions. Smoking is not permitted.

2147–51 Tremont Place, Denver, CO 80205. 800/432-4667 or 303/296-6666. Fax 303/296-2151. www.queenannebnb.com. 14 units. $135–$185 double; $215 suite. Rates include hot breakfast and Colorado wine each evening. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. In room: A/C, Wi-Fi (free).

Family-Friendly hotels

Hotel Monaco Kids get a kick out of the colorful decor, not to mention the complimentary goldfish.

JW Marriott This Cherry Creek hostelry is right in the vicinity of the bike trail, the mall, and other kid-friendly attractions, and has plenty of perks to keep the kids occupied when they’re in their rooms.

Loews Denver Hotel Kids get a teddy bear and coloring books when they arrive; the Tuscany Restaurant has a special children’s menu.

Outside Downtown

Very Expensive

JW Marriott ★★ Opened in 2004, the high-end JW Marriott was the first hotel in the Cherry Creek neighborhood, and it was well worth the wait. Sumptuous interiors and bold primary colors make for a distinctive ambience, and the attention to detail is excellent. The little touches are what this hotel is all about: jumbo flatscreen, high-definition TVs with DVD players, spectacular views, big bathrooms with granite aplenty, user-friendly thermostats, and excellent service. For shoppers, it’s beyond ideal, a block from the Cherry Creek Mall and surrounded by chic retailers of all stripes. The standout amenities: Second Home Kitchen and Bar, a sleek eatery; a huge exercise room; a 9,300-square-foot day spa; and an upscale shopping arcade. The hotel is also very close to the Cherry Creek bike path.

150 Clayton Lane, Denver, CO 80206. 866/706-7814 or 303/316-2700. Fax 303/316-4697. www.jwmarriottdenver.com. 196 units. $299–$359 double; $599–$1,200 suite; weekend rates from $199. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; executive level; exercise room; 2 outdoor Jacuzzis; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, minibar, hair dryer, Internet (free).

Expensive

Loews Denver Hotel ★★ Located just east of Colorado Boulevard and south of Cherry Creek, the Loews Denver’s sleek, towering exterior is black steel with a reflecting glass tower. Inside, it’s bella Italia, with columns finished in imitation marble, and Renaissance-style murals and paintings that look 500 years old. The location, about a 15-minute drive from downtown, is good for those who want access to scattered attractions or the Denver Tech Center. Throughout the hotel, much use has been made of floral patterns, Italian silk wallcoverings, and marble-top furnishings. All the spacious rooms have elegant decor, and they include all the business perks any traveler could want: at least three phones, Wi-Fi, and a fax machine. The resident eatery, the Tuscany, is excellent.

4150 E. Mississippi Ave., Denver, CO 80246. 800/345-9172 or 303/782-9300. Fax 303/758-6542. www.loewshotels.com. 183 units. $120–$240 double; $240–$390 suite; weekend rates from $99. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free valet and self-parking. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant (Mediterranean); lounge; concierge; exercise room; access to nearby health club; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($11 per day).

Moderate

The Timbers Hotel ★ About midway between the Colorado State Capitol and Denver International Airport, the Timbers is my pick for a slick place to hang your hat east of downtown. That means the rates are lower than in central Denver, but the style is just as high: The place exudes contemporary Western ambience, hitting the right notes between colorful and comfortable. Each room is dubbed a suite, but only the one-bedroom suites actually have separate bedrooms and living areas. Done up in earth tones and plenty of hardwood, the executive studio suites have kitchens, but they are smaller one-room units without a separate bedroom; the studio suites are one-room units with one king or two queens and a fridge and a microwave. Most rooms have private patios or balconies.

4411 Peoria St., Denver, CO 80239. 800/844-9404 or 303/373-1444. Fax 303/373-1975. www.timbersdenver.com. 127 units. $109–$139 double; $139–$169 suite. Rates include complimentary continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free self-parking. Amenities: Restaurant (American); lounge; free airport transfers; exercise room; 2 Jacuzzis; indoor and outdoor pools; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, kitchens, minibar, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Innkeeper of the Rockies This centrally located hostel, about 2 miles east of downtown, is housed in a converted 1905 apartment building. Relatively clean and conveniently located, the hostel includes such facilities as a community kitchen, laundry machines, Internet access, and barbecue grills. There are two men’s rooms, two women’s rooms, and two coed rooms, each with six bunks, as well as a few private rooms.

1717 Race St., Denver, CO 80206. 303/861-7777. Fax 720/225-9321. www.innkeeperrockies.com. 36 beds, 4 private units. $22 per person; $30 per person private room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free street parking. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free). In room: No phone.

Camping

Chatfield State Park ★ On the south side of Denver, 1 mile south of the intersection of Colo. 121 (Wadsworth) and Colo. 470, Chatfield has a 1,550-acre reservoir with ample opportunities for boating, water-skiing, fishing, and swimming, plus around 20 miles of trails for horseback riding, mountain biking, and hiking. Facilities include hot showers, picnic areas, a dump station, boat ramps and rentals, and full hookups.

11500 N. Roxborough Park Rd., Littleton, CO 80125. 303/791-7275, or 800/678-2267 for state park reservation service (outside Denver) or 303/4170-1144. www.parks.state.co.us. 197 sites. $20–$24, plus $7 day-use fee. MC, V only for advance reservations.

Chief Hosa Campground Those seeking the amenities and easy accessibility of a commercial campground close to Denver will find a nice (but often quite busy) campground at this long-standing establishment 20 miles west of Denver. There are tent and RV sites, and most of the latter have electric and water hookups. When it opened in 1913, the south campground here was dubbed “America’s First Motor-Camping Area.” The campground is open year-round. The amenities include showers, grills, and a volleyball court.

27661 Genessee Dr., Golden, CO 80401. 303/526-1324. www.chiefhosa.org. 61 sites. $23–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Just off I-70, exit 253, 20 miles west of Denver.

Where to Dine

Denver Dining

Denver abounds with Mexican holes in the wall, chain eateries, steak joints, and even a few bison joints, and the restaurants in LoDo and Cherry Creek become more like those in Los Angeles and Manhattan every year. Below, I’ve listed primarily independent restaurants, unique to this area and a cut above others in their price ranges.

If you’d like to get a taste of several restaurants, Culinary Connectors ( 303/495-5487; www.culinaryconnectors.com) leads walking tours of Denver on Friday and Saturday afternoons, as well as other tours in both Denver and Boulder. Pricing is typically $99 per person.

Downtown

Very Expensive

Buckhorn Exchange ★★ STEAKS/REGIONAL In the same rickety premises where it was established in 1893, this landmark restaurant displays its Colorado Liquor License No. 1 above the 140-year-old bar in the upstairs saloon. On the first level, the densely decorated dining room, dominated by a daunting menagerie of taxidermy, will alarm vegetarians, but meat lovers will not be disappointed. The Buckhorn’s game dishes (slow-roasted buffalo prime rib, lean and served medium rare, elk, and quail) are the best in the city. The beefsteaks, ranging from 8-ounce tenderloins to 64-ounce table steaks for five, are also quite good. With fried alligator tail, Rocky Mountain oysters, and smoked buffalo sausage among the options, the appetizers will surely broaden one’s palate. My recommendation: rattlesnake, served in cream cheese–chipotle dip with tricolor tortilla chips. For dessert, try a slab of hot Dutch apple pie—if you have room. Lunch is lighter and more affordable, with an assortment of charbroiled meat entrees, sandwiches, and hearty homemade soups. A mile southwest of the State Capitol, the Buckhorn has its own light-rail stop, making it a fun and easy trip from downtown.

1000 Osage St. (at W. 10th Ave.). 303/534-9505. www.buckhorn.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$18 lunch, $22–$49 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm. Bar open all day. Light rail: Osage.

Palace Arms ★★ CONTINENTAL Despite its dramatic Napoleonic decor—antiques dating from 1700s include a dispatch case and a pair of dueling pistols that may have belonged to Napoleon—the Palace Arms’s cuisine is a combination of traditional American, contemporary regional, Mediterranean, and Japanese influences. To begin, the Caesar salad is superb, prepared tableside for two. For an excellent main course try the Wagyu New York steak, Loch Duart salmon, or truffled Colorado bison. The wine list has received Wine Spectator’s “Best of” award.

In the Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th St. 303/297-3111. www.brownpalace.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$24 lunch, $36–$56 dinner, $105 prix-fixe dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–1:30pm; Tues–Sat 5:30–9pm.

Expensive

Bistro Vendome ★★ FRENCH Across the street from sister eatery Rioja (see below), Bistro Vendome serves splendid interpretations of Gallic standbys (dubbed “French soul food”) in an intimate space on Larimer Square. The house interpretations of lamb, poultry, and veal dishes mix tradition and invention, and there is always a vegetarian plate on the menu. The pomme frites (aka french fries) are also beloved by locals, and the side dishes and desserts don’t disappoint. Brunch brings crepes, quiches, and eggs Benedict. The patio is one of the best in Denver.

1424-H Larimer Sq. 303/825-3232. www.bistrovendome.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $7–$13 brunch, $16–$23 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9pm; brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2pm.

Denver ChopHouse & Brewery ★ STEAKS A LoDo mainstay since it opened alongside Coors Field in 1995, this is one of the Mile High City’s best places for carnivores. Set in the steeped brick-and-wood atmosphere of a restored early-19th-century train depot, the ChopHouse does classic meat and potatoes (not to mention microbrews) as well as anybody in town. My picks are always juicy steaks, from filet mignon to New York strip, and the other hearty classics, such as bone-in pork chops and herb-crusted racks of lamb; white cheddar mashers are my side of choice. The restaurant also serves a nice selection of fresh seafood and some less-expensive sandwiches and pizzas, and even a few vegetarian items.

1735 19th St. 303/296-0800. www.chophouse.com. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses $10–$20 lunch, $10–$34 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–10pm.

Family-Friendly restaurants

Casa Bonita If the kids aren’t concentrating on the tacos, the puppet shows, high divers, fun house, and video arcade will enthrall them.

Wynkoop Brewing Company With a dining area separate from the bar, this pub and restaurant has a loud, bustling atmosphere and plenty of kid-friendly menu options.

Panzano ★★ ITALIAN The Hotel Monaco’s resident eatery is one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Served in a densely decorated dining room with a busy open kitchen, Chef Elise Wiggins’s menu changes regularly but employs both traditional preparations and inventive variations of Italian plates. You’ll likely find capesante, pan-seared scallops with polenta and Mediterranean salsa; melanzane fritte, breaded eggplant with rustic tomatoes, fresh basil, and local goat cheese; and an array of pastas prepared fresh in-house daily. There are also innovative variations on steak, poultry, soups, and salads, which change according to available local ingredients: In the summer, for example, a sweet-corn soup appears on the menu. For dessert, don’t pass on the tiramisu, which manages to be heavenly and sinful at once. With lighter, similar fare (including some truly delectable salads), lunch attracts power meetings. Happy hours are good for getting small portions of the dinner specialties.

In Hotel Monaco, 909 17th St. 303/296-3525. www.panzano-denver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $6–$20 breakfast and brunch, $9–$23 lunch, $17–$30 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10am and 11am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sat–Sun 8am–2:30pm; Sun 4:30–9:30pm.

Rioja ★★★ MEDITERRANEAN Chef-owner Jennifer Jasinski emerged as Denver’s most creatively inspired restaurateur since opening Rioja in 2004. Since then, the slick Larimer Square eatery has become a national standout, a critical darling, and my pick for dinner in downtown Denver. With a copper-topped bar and an atmosphere that’s formal without being stuffy, Rioja is the perfect vehicle for Jasinski’s menu of contrasting flavors and textures. Menu items range from fresh bacon and cardamom-spiced pork belly to beet or watermelon salad to grilled Colorado lamb. Jasinski keeps the menu fresh, but you’ll always get a selection of her delectable handmade pastas for dinner—the artichoke tortellini is my pick—and truly transcendent beignets for dessert.

1431 Larimer Sq. 303/820-2282. www.riojadenver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$20 brunch and lunch, $16–$30 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm.

Strings ★★ NEW AMERICAN Open for more than 20 years in Denver’s Uptown neighborhood, Strings attracts a hip crowd of loyal locals, as well as visiting celebrities who contribute to a wall of autographed photos. Popular and typically crowded, the restaurant welcomes guests in T-shirts as well as tuxedos; it’s especially busy during the before- and after-theater hours. The menu focuses largely on Mediterranean-tinged cuisine, creative noodle dishes, and fresh seafood—such as cashew-crusted sea bass with saffron couscous and vanilla bean butter. Lunch and dinner specials change weekly to match the season and the mood of the chef. Strings has an outdoor patio for summer dining.

1700 Humboldt St. (at E. 17th Ave.). 303/831-7310. www.stringsrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$25 lunch, $14–$35 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat 5–10:30pm; Sun 5–9pm.

Zengo ★ LATIN/ASIAN With a menu that runs the gamut from dim sum and sushi to empanadas and seviche, Zengo—Japanese for “give and take”—is the standout eatery in the booming Riverfront area just west of LoDo. Under the guidance of Chef Richard Sandoval (who also owns restaurants in New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas, and elsewhere, as well as Tamayo in Denver), the restaurant is a favorite of the young and hip, and just the place to see and be seen. The colorful contemporary decor matches the lively social scene and the vibrant dishes. Entrees are often Latin-Asian fusions, such as miso-chipotle soup, achiote barbecue salmon, and Szechuan-grilled pork loin with sweet corn salsa. Lunch includes dim sum, sushi, ensaladas, and tortas. There are also numerous vegetarian options.

1610 Little Raven St. 720/904-0965. www.modernmexican.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Bar open later.

Moderate

Appaloosa Grill NEW AMERICAN The employee-owned Appaloosa features an eclectic menu, merging Mediterranean, southwestern, and bar grub. The bison and beef steaks are a good bet, as is the spicy fettuccine Diablo and the Colorado-raised lamb chops. The lunch menu includes salads, sandwiches, and assorted lighter entrees. With a casual, semi-intimate atmosphere and a handsome antique bar, this is a good place for dinner to morph into a night on the town. The bar menu is available until 1am and there is live musical entertainment nightly.

535 16th St. Mall (at Welton St.). 720/932-1700. www.appaloosagrill.com. Main courses $9–$20 lunch, $9–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bar open later.

Jonesy’s Eat Bar ★★ GASTROPUB Opened in summer 2008, Jonesy’s is housed in a former 1950s soda fountain just east of downtown, complete with pressed tin ceiling and a great bar. With 30 local beers, the dinner menu focuses on comfort and flavor, and it works quite well. There are four kinds of fries—Thai ginger, mac and cheese, buffalo, and truffle—and four varieties of sliders—falafel, bacon–blue cheese on beef, shrimp salad, and lamb—as well as a rotating cast of more intricate entrees like pork tenderloin with green chile agro-dolce and onion rings and meatless loaf with mushroom and quinoa. The vibe is casual and friendly, the crowd is eclectic, and there’s pool and darts in the back—difficult to beat for an easy but tasty night out.

1970 Pennsylvania St. 303/863-7473. www.jeatbar.com. Main courses $6–$11 brunch, $9–$18 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sat–Sun 10am–3pm.

Le Central ★ FRENCH Seven blocks south of the Colorado State Capitol, Le Central is a romantic restaurant that since 1981 has prided itself on creating French dishes that are both top quality and affordable. Housed in an aged urban structure with a distinctive European vibe, the restaurant changes its menus daily, but you can always expect to find a selection of fresh chicken, pork, beef, lamb, and seafood. They’re available grilled, sautéed, or roasted, and finished with some of the tastiest sauces this side of Provence. Bouillabaisse and paella are usually available, and every menu features a vegetarian dish. Shellfish fanatics, take note: Le Central’s mussel menu is legendary, and served with all the french fries you can eat.

112 E. 8th Ave. (at Lincoln St.). 303/863-8094. www.lecentral.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$10 lunch, $10–$20 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:15pm; Sat–Sun 10am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm.

McCormick’s Fish House & Bar ★ SEAFOOD In lower downtown’s historic Oxford Hotel, McCormick’s maintains a late-19th-century feel with stained-glass windows, oak booths, and a fine polished-wood bar. Come here for the best seafood in town—it’s flown in daily, and might include Alaskan salmon and halibut, mussels from Florida, lobsters from Maine, Hawaiian mahimahi, red rockfish from Oregon, and trout from Idaho. The menu also offers pasta, chicken, and a full line of prime beef. Across the hall, the Corner Bar’s happy hour (served 3–6pm every day and 10pm–midnight on Fri–Sat) is legendary, featuring $2-to-$5 crab cakes, cheeseburgers, and steamed mussels. There is breakfast service from the same kitchen at the adjacent bar from 7am until 10:30am daily.

In the Oxford Hotel, 1659 Wazee St. 303/825-1107. www.mccormichandschmicks.com. Reservations recommended. Lunch and light dishes $7–$15; dinner $15–$35. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm.

Red Square Euro Bistro ★★ RUSSIAN/NEW AMERICAN After the Little Russian Café closed in 2003, its all-Russian staff reunited under owner Steve Ryan and opened Red Square. They did their old place one better, with a rich red interior, tucked-away patio, contemporary Russian art, and a vodka bar stocked with infusions made in-house (ranging from raspberry to garlic) and about 100 brands from 17 countries, including Russia, Holland, Poland, Sweden, and even Mexico. The excellent entrees are not purely Russian: The steak stroganoff has a salmon counterpart, the menu has Asian and French influences, and the appetizers include pâté and gnocchi. But there is borscht (cold in summer, hot in winter), a roasted Russian wild boar chop on Wednesdays, and of course the vodka—lots and lots of vodka.

1512 Larimer St. at Writer Sq. 303/595-8600. www.redsquarebistro.com. Main courses $16–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Bar open later.

Wynkoop Brewing Company ★ REGIONAL AMERICAN/PUB Denver’s biggest and best brewpub took on an even more esteemed significance in 2003 when founder John Hickenlooper took office as the mayor of Denver. (“Hick” sold his restaurants to an employee group after taking office.) Occupying a renovated warehouse across from Union Station and close to Coors Field, the Wynkoop is one of the country’s model microbreweries, and even served as a catalyst for the rebirth of surrounding LoDo. The menu offers pub fare, sandwiches, soups, and salads, plus dinners of steak, chicken burritos, bangers and mash, and buffalo meatloaf—not to mention a nice variety of beers on tap, including a spicy standout in Patty’s Chile Beer. See also “Denver After Dark,” in chapter 6.

1634 18th St. (at Wynkoop St.). 303/297-2700. www.wynkoop.com. Reservations recommended for large parties. Main courses $9–$22. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–10pm. Bar open later.

Inexpensive

In addition to the options listed below, there are a number of great breakfast spots in the downtown area. Snooze, 2262 Larimer St. ( 303/297-0700), is a great breakfast and lunch spot in the Ballpark neighborhood, serving delicacies like pineapple upside-down pancakes and bison meatball subs. Established in 1942, Pete’s Kitchen, 1962 E. Colfax Ave. ( 303/321-3139), is a prototypical urban diner, with checkerboard floors, a breakfast bar, booths, plenty of local color, and killer breakfast burritos. Pete’s is open 24 hours on weekends, making it a favorite of the barhopping crowd. And there is perhaps no more remarkable value-oriented restaurant than the nonprofit SAME Cafe, 2023 E. Colfax Ave. ( 720/530-6853), where there is no cash register: Customers pay donations of their own choosing for a healthy lunch. The socially conscious proprietors are committed to alleviating hunger and promoting healthy eating for all.

Paramount Cafe AMERICAN Housed in the restored lobby of Denver’s historic Paramount Theatre on the 16th Street Mall, this bar and grill is popular, lively, but can be a bit noisy. A plethora of televisions, a poolroom with five tables plus satellite trivia games, and a year-round patio on the mall make this a good choice for people-watching. The menu features exotic subs, burgers (including elk, ahi, and a Kobe burger served on a pretzel), smoked pork, and some Latin-tinged dishes like pupusas. But it’s just as much a bar as a restaurant, so be prepared for the carousers.

519 16th St. (at Glenarm St.). 303/893-2000. www.paramountcafe.com. Main courses $6–$10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–1am. Bar open until 2am.

Wazee Supper Club ★ PIZZA/SANDWICHES A former plumbing-supply store in lower downtown, the Wazee is a Depression-era relic with a black-and-white tile floor and a bleached mahogany burl bar—a magnificent example of 1930s Art Deco. It’s been popular for more than 30 years with artists, architects, theatergoers, entertainers, businesspeople, and just about everybody else. Pizza lovers throng to the place (some believe the pizza here is the best in town, if not the world), but you’ll also find an array of overstuffed sandwiches, from New York Reubens to Philly cheese steaks, plus buffalo burgers, and more than 20 draft beers. Don’t miss the dumbwaiter used to shuttle food and drinks to the mezzanine floor—it’s a converted 1937 garage-door opener.

1600 15th St. (at Wazee St.). 303/623-9518. www.wazeesupperclub.com. Most menu items $6–$10; pizzas $9–$21. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–11pm. Bar open until 2am.

A Good City for green chile Fiends

Green chile (green chil-ay) n. a fiery-sweet stew made of chile peppers and other ingredients, often but not always including chunks of pork, tomato, and onion. Denver’s eateries serve bowl after bowl of good green chile, stuff that ranges from merely spicy to flat-out nuclear. If you have a serious weakness for a bowl of green (as I do), here are six hot spots in the Mile High City, in no particular order:

1. Brewery Bar II, 150 Kalamath St. ( 303/893-0971): Inconspicuously nestled in a warehouse district, the Brewery Bar serves some of the hottest green chile in Denver. It also happens to be some of the tastiest. There are also two Brewery Bars in the south suburbs.

2. El Tejado, 2651 S. Broadway ( 303/722-3987): This locals’ favorite in the southern reaches of the city serves a unique thick green chile plate as well as some of the best authentic Mexican dishes in the Rockies.

3. Jack-N-Grill, 2524 N. Federal Blvd. ( 303/964-9544): Sweet and typically served in a bowl with beans, Jack Martinez’s green chile is excellent, as is his red. There is a second location in Littleton.

4. Las Delicias, 439 E. 19th Ave. ( 303/839-5675): A Denver tradition, Las Delicias serves some of the city’s best green chile from its downtown location among its four metro-area eateries.

5. Little Anita’s, 1550 S. Colorado Blvd. ( 303/691-3337): Relatively new in Denver, this longtime Albuquerque eatery offers wicked green chile from a strip mall in southeast Denver and three other metro-area locations.

6. Lime, 1414 Larimer St. ( 303/893-5463): Almost too hip for its own good, Larimer Square’s Lime eschews pork for chicken and dresses up the bowl with tortilla strips. Defying tradition tastes pretty good.

Outside Downtown

Very Expensive

Elway’s ★★ STEAKS/SEAFOOD Owned by retired Denver Broncos quarterback John Elway, this popular Cherry Creek eatery—unlike many celebrity restaurants—is no flash in the pan. Dim but lively, the restaurant is a model of “New West” design, with a menu that melds swank and comfortable. On the swank side: crab cakes, hand-cut USDA prime steaks, Alaskan halibut, and veggies served a la carte. And the comfy: burgers, enchiladas, and mac and cheese. But it’s the little details, such as buttonholes in the napkins, milk bottles full of water, and delectable desserts, that won me over in the end. Service is smooth and business is brisk, in both the cavernous dining room and the bustling bar. If you’re lucky, you might bump into Elway himself here—he’s not just the owner, but a regular, too. There is also an Elway’s Downtown in the Ritz-Carlton Denver, 1881 Curtis St. ( 303/312-3107), that opened in 2007.

2500 E. 1st Ave. (immediately west of the Cherry Creek Shopping Center). 303/399-5353. www.elways.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$33 lunch and brunch, $16–$50 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–9pm.

The Fort ★★★ REGIONAL There are several reasons to drive 18 miles southwest (and 800 ft. up) from downtown to the Fort in Denver’s foothills. First: the atmosphere. The building was hand constructed of adobe bricks in 1962 as a full-scale reproduction of Bent’s Fort, Colorado’s first fur-trading post. The equally authentic interior boasts striking views of Denver’s city lights. Second: the Fort’s impeccable, gracious service, which might just be the finest in town. The third and best reason to go is the food. The Fort built its reputation on high-quality, low-cholesterol buffalo, of which it claims to serve the largest variety and greatest quantity of any restaurant in the world. There’s roast bison marrow, braised bison tongue, and even “bison eggs”—hard-boiled quail eggs wrapped in buffalo sausage. My pick is the game plate, with elk chop, teriyaki-style quail, and buffalo filet, served with a salad (and extraordinary homemade dressings), rice, and vegetables. Other house specialties include Rocky Mountain Oysters and elk chops with wild-huckleberry sauce. Die-hards can get good ol’ beefsteak.

19192 Colo. 8 (just north of the intersection of Colo. 8 and W. Hampden Ave./U.S. 285), Morrison. 303/697-4771. www.thefort.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $22–$52. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5:30–9:30pm; Sat 5–9:30pm; Sun 5–9pm. Call for special holiday hours.

Fruition ★★★ NEW AMERICAN Getting named one of the country’s best new chefs in 2010 by Food & Wine magazine didn’t faze Alex Seidel much. The “new” didn’t necessarily apply either: He’s been at this for some time, most recently at Denver’s Mizuna. Hype aside, Seidel has simply continued to apply the same workmanlike but counterintuitive attitude to his craft, and continued to achieve the same phenomenal results. Open since 2007 about a mile south of downtown, his Fruition offers a regularly changing menu based on fresh, seasonal, and sustainable ingredients, plating up such revelations as pork tenderloin with ham-hock polenta and pan-roasted walleye with garlic potato en croûte and escargot. A two-course vegetarian option is always offered, as are a slate of delectable desserts. The wine list is similar: eclectic and superb.

1313 E. 6th Ave. 303/831-1962. www.fruitionrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $24–$35. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–8pm.

Moderate to Expensive

Bones ★★ NOODLES Longtime Denver restaurateur Frank Bonanno’s latest venture is a casual noodle house in Bones, inspired largely but not entirely by the flavors of the Far East. The menu is devised based on seasonally available ingredients and Bonanno’s whims. A recent menu included such noodle bowls as ba mee, roasted squash, greens, and horseradish mascarpone cream; and poached lobster ramen with edamame. Nonnoodle dishes include ahi burgers, killer steamed buns, and steaks. Beyond the superlative food, the place is hip but not pretentious, the space small but not claustrophobic, the prices affordable, and the service impeccable.

701 Grant St. 720/860-2929. www.bonesdenver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$18 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; daily 5–9:45pm.

Duo ★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Nestled in the back of a very homey and warm room with brick, worn wood, and a wall of suspended old window frames, Duo’s open kitchen plates up a variety of dishes that start with tradition but exude creativity in terms of both presentation and flavor. The menu changes seasonally, but you might find expertly grilled pork chops, buttery buttermilk-fried chicken, or sweet corn risotto. There’s always a steak, be it beef or bison. Appetizers are similarly remarkable, my favorite being the leek tart, topped with the transcendental contrast of creamy goat cheese and salty pancetta. For dessert, the house-made ice cream will leave you wanting more.

2413 W. 32nd Ave. 303/477-4141. www.duodenver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$24 dinner, $8–$12 brunch. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm; Sat–Sun 10am–2pm.

Encore ★ NEW AMERICAN This smart and hip eatery adjoins the Tattered Cover bookstore and an art cinema, and is a good pick for lunch or dinner east of downtown. With black-and-white tiled floors, great happy-hour deals, and excellent service, Encore is a nice fit for a variety of options, from vegetarian (falafel burgers) to carnivorous (bison flank steak). In between are great appetizers, shrimp tacos, wood-fired pizzas, mussels, pastas, and big salads. To finish, the cinnamon-ginger churros and chocolate-banana pudding pie are hard to resist.

2250 E. Colfax Ave. 303/355-1112. www.encoreoncolfax.com. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$15 lunch, $9–$22 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 10am–3pm and 4–9pm. Bar open later.

Lola ★★ SEAFOOD/MEXICAN Located in the hip Highlands neighborhood west of downtown, Lola regularly fills to the rafters. It’s easy to see why: The place has lots of pizazz, in terms of both its art and its airy design—complete with a killer patio with an indoor/outdoor bar and great city views—and the spicy savory dishes on its menu. Start off with some guacamole, prepared fresh tableside, before moving on to a bowl of shellfish, say, rock shrimp seviche or clams and chorizo, and an inventively prepared steelhead or snapper. Most entrees use creative Mexican preparations on fresh seafood with terrific results. Served Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 2pm, the brunch favorite is chicken-fried steak and eggs served with sweet-potato hash and chorizo gravy. Lola’s margaritas and sweet Brazilian caipirinhas are also hard to beat, as is the happy hour 4 to 6pm most nights and all night Monday. Below the restaurant is a hip, aptly named lounge, Belola.

1575 Boulder St. 720/570-8686. www.loladenver.com. Main courses $9–$14 brunch, $18–$24 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 4–10pm; Fri 4–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–9pm. Bar open 1 hr. later.

Root Down ★★ NEW AMERICAN The concept behind Root Down is almost too good to be true: an eatery so green it uses reverse-osmosis water, wind power, and it is built from 70% recycled materials in a reclaimed garage on the edge of the Highlands neighborhood. Featuring outdoor seating, an open dining room, and a retro-looking bar, Root Down’s menu mashes up all sort of flavors from this superlative staring point, ranging from veggie and duck confit sliders to more sophisticated dishes, like scallops with plantain hash and lemon-habanero tartar sauce or a pork chop with potato-mozzarella ravioli or country-fried tofu. The sweet-potato fries are quite tasty, especially when dunked in lime-curry dipping sauce. The cocktails are as inventive as the food menu, the wine list is excellent, and the skyline views from the patio are, well, sometimes too good to be true.

1600 W. 33rd Ave. 303/993-4200. www.rootdowndenver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$27. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9pm. Bar open later.

Sushi Den ★★ SUSHI/JAPANESE The long-standing Sushi Den is not only the best sushi restaurant in Denver; it’s on the short list of the top sushi restaurants in the country. Owned by three Kizaki brothers—one of whom is based in Japan and sends a daily shipment of ingredients—the Sushi Den’s landlocked location is incidental: This is some of the freshest fish you’ll find anywhere. The formidable sushi menu, running the gamut from squid and salmon to smoked trout, is complemented by lunch and dinner menus with a wide variety of Japanese fare and sushi and sashimi combination plates. Located in south Denver in the charming Old South Pearl Street retail district near two sister restaurants, Izakaya Den and the Den Deli, the Sushi Den is one of two locations worldwide—its sister restaurant is in Fukuoka, Japan.

1487 S. Pearl St. 303/777-0826. www.sushiden.net. Main courses $8–$18 lunch, $9–$28 dinner; sushi rolls $4.50–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 4:45–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 4:45–11:30pm; Sun 5–10:30pm.

Table 6 ★★ CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN A bistro with a bit of southern comfort, Table 6 balances a hip but unpretentious sensibility, great food, and one of the best wine lists in town, offered on a tableside stand in an antique photo album. Directed by Chef Scott Parker, the open kitchen plates up such tantalizing dishes as mushroom risotto, crisp duck confit, and inventively prepared spaghetti. The atmosphere is lived-in and homey, with rough hardwood floors, brick walls, and ceiling fans, with a blackboard showcasing the day’s specials. The desserts are hard to turn down, especially the chocolate and raspberry beignets.

609 Corona St. 303/831-8800. www.table6denver.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$24. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 10:30am–2pm and 5–8:30pm.

Inexpensive

For burrito aficionados, the world’s first Chipotle is located near the University of Denver, at 1644 E. Evans Ave. ( 303/722-4121).

Casa Bonita MEXICAN/AMERICAN A west Denver landmark, Casa Bonita is more of a theme park than a restaurant. A pink Spanish cathedral-type bell tower greets visitors, who discover nonstop action inside: divers plummeting into a pool below a 30-foot waterfall, puppet shows, a video arcade, “Black Bart’s Cave,” and strolling mariachi bands. The 52,000-square-foot restaurant is said to be the largest restaurant in the Western Hemisphere. There’s standard Mexican fare—enchiladas, tacos, and fajitas—along with country-fried steak and fried chicken dinners. Although the food is average at best, many plates are all-you-can-eat, and patrons need only raise a miniature flag to get another round of tacos. Meals include hot sopaipillas (deep-fried sweet dough), served with honey.

In the JCRS Shopping Center, 6715 W. Colfax Ave., Lakewood. 303/232-5115. Reservations not accepted. All-you-can-eat dinners $12–$22; children’s meals around $5. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm. Closed Sun.

Jack-N-Grill ★ NEW MEXICAN “we are not fast food,” reads a sign at Jack-N-Grill, and it’s spot on: This is clearly a restaurant that takes its time, and its food is worth the wait. Named for Jack Martinez and his ever-present grill, the food reflects Jack’s father’s motto: “Comida sin chile, no es comida,” or “A meal without chile is not a meal.” Not surprisingly, just about everything at Jack-N-Grill has chilies in it, roasted on-site by the Martinez family. Both the green and the red chile are top-notch, as are the Mexican dishes and the fresh homemade salsa. Also popular: Frito pies and calabasitas, bowls with squash, zucchini, corn, green chilies, and onions. Don’t expect Jack to add any chile-free dishes to the menu. “What’s the use?” he says.

2524 N. Federal Blvd. 303/964-9544. www.jackngrill.com. Main courses $7–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7am–9pm; Fri–Sat 7am–10pm. There is another location at 2630 W. Belleview Ave. in Littleton ( 303/474-4242).

T-Wa Inn VIETNAMESE Denver’s oldest Vietnamese restaurant is still the best. With simple, pleasant decor and relics from the Far East on display, it looks the part, but the food is what makes it work. Everything is excellent, but I especially like the succulent shrimp, the spicy pork tenderloin, and the attention to authentic Vietnamese flavors. T-Wa also serves several spicy Thai dishes, as well as Asian beers and a whole rainbow of neon-colored specialty drinks.

555 S. Federal Blvd. (2 blocks south of Alameda Ave.). 303/922-2378. www.twainn.com. Main courses $6–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

WaterCourse Foods ★ VEGETARIAN Beloved by local vegetarians and vegans, WaterCourse is a bustling restaurant in the Uptown neighborhood that emphasizes fresh ingredients and healthful eating. Breakfast is served all day—the menu includes scrambles (cage-free eggs or tofu with tomatoes, chilies, cheese, and other ingredients) and banana-bread French toast—and there is also a selection of sandwiches, pasta dishes, salads, and other inventive and tasty vegetarian and vegan specialties—think barbecued tofu and seitan fajitas. Beer and wine, largely organic and local, are available.

837 E. 17th Ave. 303/832-7313. www.watercoursefoods.com. Main courses $5–$9 breakfast, $7–$13 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–10pm; Sat–Sun 8am–10pm.