Chapter 6: What to See & Do in Denver

Denver, an intriguing combination of modern American city and overgrown Old West town, offers a wide variety of attractions, activities, and events. Thanks to its geographic isolation, it’s a true cultural hub for a significant chunk of the country: You’ll discover art, history, sports, recreation, shopping, and plenty of nightlife. It is quite easy to spend an entire week of vacation in the city, but Denver also makes a convenient base for trips to Boulder, Colorado Springs, and the mountains.

The Top Attractions

Denver Attractions

Colorado State Capitol ★★ Built to last 1,000 years, the capitol was constructed in 1886 of granite from a Colorado quarry. The dome, which rises 272 feet above the ground, was first sheathed in copper and then replaced with gold leaf after a public outcry: Copper was not a Colorado product.

Murals depicting the history of water in the state adorn the walls of the first-floor rotunda, which offers a splendid view upward to the underside of the dome. The rotunda resembles the layout of the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. South of the rotunda is the governor’s office, paneled in walnut and lit by a massive chandelier.

On the first floor, the west lobby hosts revolving temporary exhibits. To the right of the main lobby is the governor’s reception room. The second floor has main entrances to the House, Senate, and old Supreme Court chambers. On the third floor are entrances to the public and visitor galleries for the House and Senate (open to the public during legislative session from Jan to early May).

Lincoln St. and Colfax Ave. 303/866-2604. Free admission. 45-min. tours offered year-round (more frequently in summer), Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Fri 9am–3:30pm; rest of year Mon–Fri 9:15am–2:30pm. Bus: 0, 2, 7, 12, 15, or 16.

Denver Art Museum ★★ Founded in 1893, this seven-story museum has two distinct buildings. The main 1972 building, designed by Gio Ponti, is wrapped by a thin 28-sided wall faced with one million sparkling tiles. The second, a jagged, avant-garde addition, designed by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind, opened in fall 2006, doubling the size of the museum and giving Denver a unique architectural highlight in the process.

The museum’s collection of Western and regional works is its cornerstone. Included are Frederic Remington’s bronze The Cheyenne, Charles Russell’s painting In the Enemy’s Country, plus 19th-century photography, historical pieces, and works by Georgia O’Keeffe. In 2001, Dorothy and William Harmsen, longtime Colorado residents and founders of the Jolly Rancher Candy Company, donated their prestigious Western art collection to the museum. Assembled over 40 years, the collection immediately made the museum’s inventory of Western art one of the most impressive in the nation. The American Indian collection is also excellent, consisting of more than 18,000 pieces from 150 tribes of North America, and spanning nearly 2,000 years. The collection is growing through the acquisition of historic pieces as well as the commissioning of works by contemporary artists. Other collections include architecture and design; graphics; Asian, African, Oceanic, European, and American painting and sculpture; and modern, contemporary, pre-Columbian, Spanish Colonial, and textile art.

Overview tours are available weekdays at 11am and a variety of child-oriented and family programs are scheduled regularly. There are gift shops in both buildings. Allow 2 to 3 hours.

100 W. 14th Ave. Pkwy. (at Civic Center Park). 720/865-5000. www.denverartmuseum.org. Nonresident admission $13 adults, $10 college students and seniors 65 and over, $15 children 6–18, free for children 5 and under; free for Colorado residents the 1st Sat of each month. Tues–Wed and Sat 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–7pm; Fri 10am–10pm; Sun noon–5pm. Bus: 0, 2, 6, 7, 12, 15, 16, or 52.

Impressions

Cash! Why, they create it here.

—Walt Whitman, on Denver in Specimen Days, 1881

robbery at the Mint

A daring armed robbery took place at the Denver Mint in 1922, just 1 week before Christmas, and although police were certain they knew who the culprits were, no one ever served a day in jail for the crime. The most secure building in Denver, the Mint seemed an unlikely target for a robbery. In fact, the thieves did not rob the Mint itself—they simply waited for guards to carry the money out the front door.

A Federal Reserve Bank truck was parked outside the Mint on West Colfax Avenue at about 10:30am on December 18. It was being loaded with $200,000 worth of brand-new $5 bills, which were to be taken to a bank about 12 blocks away, when a black Buick touring car pulled up. Two men jumped out and began firing sawed-off shotguns, killing one guard and spraying the Mint and nearby buildings, while a third robber grabbed the bags of money. Guards inside the Mint quickly pulled their guns and returned fire, but within a minute and a half the robbers were gone—$200,000 richer.

Mint guards were certain they had hit one of the thieves, and 4 weeks later the Buick turned up in a dusty Denver garage. Lying in the front seat was the frozen, bloody body of Nick Trainor, a convicted criminal who had recently been released on parole from the Nebraska State Penitentiary. Trainor had been shot several times.

Secret Service agents recovered $80,000 of the missing loot the following year in St. Paul, Minnesota, but no arrests were made, and little more was mentioned until 1934, when Denver police announced that they knew the identities of the other men involved. Still, no charges were filed. Two of the suspects were already serving life sentences for other crimes.

At the time, police said a Midwest gang had pulled off the robbery and immediately fled to the Minneapolis–St. Paul area. The robbers gave the money to a prominent Minneapolis attorney, who also was never charged.

Denver Museum of Nature & Science ★★ The largest museum of its kind in the Rocky Mountain region, the Denver Museum of Nature & Science features scores of world-renowned dioramas, an extensive gems and minerals display, a pair of Egyptian mummies, a terrific fossil collection, and several other award-winning exhibitions. The museum focuses on six areas of science: anthropology, health science, geology, paleontology, space science, and zoology.

At “Space Odyssey,” visitors experience a carefully crafted mix of exhibits, live programming, digital multimedia, and interactive modules that engage them in contemporary stories of space exploration. The state-of-the-art Gates Planetarium has an advanced computer graphics and video system, unlike any other in the world. “Prehistoric Journey” traces the history of life on earth through 3.5 billion years with dinosaur skeletons, fossils, interactive exhibits, and dioramas of ancient ecologies. New in 2009, “Expedition Health” is a state-of-the-art exhibit that allows visitors an eye-opening look at the workings of their own bodies, gathering information on themselves as they move through the exhibits, and getting a printout about their own physical condition at the end.

An IMAX theater presents science, nature, or technology-oriented films with surround sound on a screen that measures four and a half stories tall. Allow 2 to 4 hours.

City Park, 2001 Colorado Blvd. 303/370-6000. www.dmns.org. Admission to museum $11 adults, $6 children 3–18 and seniors 65 and older, free for children 2 and under; IMAX $8 adults, $6 children and seniors; museum and IMAX $16 adults, $10 children and seniors, planetarium $5 additional for adults, $4 additional for children and seniors. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 32 or 40.

U.S. Mint ★★ Whether we worship it or simply consider money a necessary commodity, we all have to admit a certain fascination with the coins and bills that seem to make the world turn. There are four mints in the United States, but the Denver Mint is one of only two (the other is the Philadelphia Mint) where we can actually see the process of turning lumps of metal into shiny coins.

Opened in 1863, the Mint originally melted gold dust and nuggets into bars. In 1904 the office moved to this site, and 2 years later began making gold and silver coins. Copper pennies were added a few years later. The last silver dollars (containing 90% silver) were coined in 1935. In 1970, all silver was eliminated from dollars and half dollars (today they’re made of a copper-nickel alloy). The Denver Mint stamps billions of coins each year, and each has a small d on it.

Although visitors today don’t get as close as they once did, a self-guided tour along the visitors’ gallery provides a good look at the process, with a bird’s-eye view from the mezzanine of the actual coin-minting process. A variety of displays help explain the minting process, and an adjacent gift shop on Cherokee Street ( 303/572-9500) offers a variety of souvenirs. Allow 1 hour.

320 W. Colfax Ave. (btw. Cherokee and Delaware sts.). 303/405-4761 or 303/572-9500 for gift shop. www.usmint.gov. Free admission. Tours Mon–Fri 8am–2pm. Gift shop 8am–3pm. Reservations recommended; online reservations available. Closed 1–2 weeks in summer for audit; call for exact date. Bus: 2, 7, or 16L.

More Attractions

Historic Buildings

Denver encompasses 17 recognized historic districts, including Capitol Hill, the Clements District (around 21st St. and Tremont St., just east of downtown), and 9th Street Park in Auraria (off 9th St. and W. Colfax Ave.). Historic Denver ( 303/534-5288; www.historicdenver.org) offers publications covering many of these areas and organizes several annual events. For additional information on some of Denver’s historic areas, see the “Neighborhoods in Brief” section in chapter 5.

Byers-Evans House This elaborate Victorian home, built by Rocky Mountain News founding editor William Byers in 1883, has been restored to its appearance of 1912–24, when it was owned by William Gray Evans, son of Colorado’s second territorial governor, John Evans. (The Evans family continued to reside here until 1981.) Guided tours describe the architecture and explain the fascinating lives of these prominent Denver families. There is a gift shop. Allow 45 minutes.

1310 Bannock St. (in front of the Denver Art Museum). 303/620-4933. www.coloradohistory.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; guided tours every half-hour 10:30am–2:30pm. Closed state holidays. Bus: 7, 9, or 12.

Larimer Square ★ This is where Denver began. Larimer Street between 14th and 15th streets was the entire community of Denver City in 1858, with false-fronted stores, hotels, and saloons to serve gold-seekers and other pioneers. In the mid-1870s it was the main street of the city and the site of Denver’s first post office, bank, theater, and streetcar line. By the 1930s, however, this part of Larimer Street had deteriorated so much that it had become a skid row of pawnshops, gin mills, and flophouses. Plans had been made to tear these structures down, when a group of investors purchased the entire block in 1965.

The Larimer Square project became Denver’s first major historic preservation effort. All 16 of the block’s commercial buildings, constructed in the 1870s and 1880s, were renovated, providing space for street-level retail shops, restaurants, and nightclubs, as well as upper-story offices. A series of courtyards and open spaces was created, and in 1973 it was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Allow at least a half-hour—but this is a great spot for a meal if you have more time. In June, Larimer Square hosts La Piazza dell’Arte, featuring hundreds of artists creating pastel masterpieces on the street. In September, Oktoberfest is the big event.

1400 block of Larimer St. 303/534-2367. www.larimersquare.com. Bus: 2, 10, 12, 15, 20, 28, 32, 38, or 44.

Molly Brown House Museum ★★ Built in 1889 of Colorado rhyolite (a type of volcanic rock) with sandstone trim, this was the residence of J. J. and Margaret Brown from 1894 to 1932. The “unsinkable” Molly Brown became a national heroine in 1912 when the Titanic sank. She took charge of a group of immigrant women in a lifeboat and later raised money for their benefit. (Interestingly, it was Broadway that nicknamed her Molly; she was actually known as Maggie.)

Restored to its 1910 appearance, the Molly Brown House has a large collection of early-20th-century furnishings and art objects, many of which belonged to the Brown family. There are also temporary exhibits (recent ones detailed the lives of servants in Brown’s day and trends in Victorian undergarments), and a carriage house with a museum store at the rear is open to visitors. The house can be seen on guided tours. Allow 1 hour.

1340 Pennsylvania St. 303/832-4092. www.mollybrown.org. Guided tour $8 adults, $6 seniors 65 and older, $4 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. June–Aug Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; Sept–May Tues–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm. Guided tours every 30 min.; last tour of the day begins at 3:30pm. Bus: 2 on Logan St. to E. 13th, and then 1 block east to Pennsylvania.

Museums & Galleries

The Colorado History Museum closed in 2010 to make way for the new History Colorado Center, a block south of the old museum at 12th Avenue and Broadway. Construction was underway at press time; officials expect the new museum to open by the end of 2011. Consult www.coloradohistory.org for up-to-date news on the opening date.

Delayed but also slated to open by the end of 2011, the Clyfford Still Museum (www.clyffordstillmuseum.org) will house 2,400 of the late abstract expressionist works in a “bold and iconoclastic building” adjacent to the Denver Art Museum.

Black American West Museum & Heritage Center ★ Nearly one-third of the cowboys in the Old West were black, and this museum chronicles their little-known history, along with that of black doctors, teachers, miners, farmers, newspaper reporters, and state legislators. The extensive collection occupies the Victorian home of Dr. Justina Ford, the first black woman licensed to practice medicine in Denver. Known locally as the “Lady Doctor,” Ford (1871–1951) delivered more than 7,000 babies—most of them at home because she was denied hospital privileges—and consistently served the disadvantaged and underprivileged of Denver.

The museum’s founder and curator emeritus, Paul Stewart, loved to play cowboys and Indians as a boy, but his playmates always chose him to be an Indian because “There was no such thing as a black cowboy.” He began researching the history of blacks in the West after meeting a black cowboy who had led cattle drives in the early 20th century. Stewart explored almost every corner of the American West, gathering artifacts, memorabilia, photographs, oral histories—anything to document the existence of black cowboys—and his collection served as the nucleus for this museum when it opened in 1971. Allow 1 hour.

3091 California St. (at 31st St.). 303/482-2242. www.blackamericanwestmuseum.com. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors, $6 children 12 and under. June–Aug Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; Sept–May Tues–Sat 10am–2pm. Light rail: 30th and Downing.

Denver Firefighters Museum The history of the Denver Fire Department is preserved and displayed here, in historic Fire Station No. 1. Built in 1909 for Engine Company No. 1, it was one of the largest firehouses in Denver, occupying 11,000 square feet on two floors. In its early years, it lodged men, fire engines, and horses. Motorized equipment replaced horse-drawn engines by 1923, and in 1932 the firehouse was “modernized.” Concrete replaced the wooden floor, the stables and hayloft were removed, and the plumbing was improved. Visitors today see firefighting equipment dating from 1866, as well as historical photos and newspaper clippings. Allow 45 minutes.

1326 Tremont Place. 303/892-1436. www.denverfirefightersmuseum.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 students and seniors, $4 children 12 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed major holidays. Located 2 blocks west of Civic Center Park just north of Colfax. Bus: 7.

Denver Museum of Miniatures, Dolls & Toys This late-19th-century property is home to an intriguing collection of antique and collectible dolls, from rag and wood to exquisite German and French bisque. Also on display are dollhouses, from a Santa Fe adobe with hand-carved furniture to a replica of a 16-room home in Newport, Rhode Island. The museum also displays wonderful old toys, from teddy bears to unusual vintage board games, and temporary exhibits that change every 3 months. The gift shop is equally delightful. Allow 45 to 60 minutes.

1880 Gaylord St. (just west of City Park). 303/322-1053. www.dmmdt.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 children 5–16, free for children 4 and under. Wed–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm.

Four Mile Historic Park ★ Four miles southeast of downtown Denver—thus the name—the city’s oldest extant log home (1859) serves as the centerpiece for this 12-acre open-air museum. Everything is authentic to the period from 1859 to 1883, including the house (a former stagecoach stop), its furnishings, outbuildings, and farm equipment. There are draft horses and chickens in the barn, and crops in the garden. Weekend visitors can enjoy horse-drawn carriage rides ($2), weather permitting. Seasonal “Heritage Events” feature pioneer-era musicians and actors as well as many food and craft demonstrations. Big events include July 4th and an outdoor theater series. Allow 1 hour.

715 S. Forest St. (at Exposition Ave.). 303/399-1859. www.fourmilepark.org. Admission and museum tour $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 children 7–17, free for children 6 and under. Apr–Sept Wed–Fri noon–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–4pm; Oct–Mar Wed–Sun noon–4pm.

Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Art ★★ This terrific museum covers Colorado’s most illustrious artist, Vance Kirkland (1904–81), in grand fashion, while also presenting a world-class collection of decorative arts. Kirkland was a watercolor painter focused on Western landscapes when he started experimenting, combining oils and watercolors on one canvas. The Denver arts establishment discounted his modern ideas, but Kirkland later won accolades for creating his own artistic universe in his stunning paintings, about 60 of which are on display here. First built in 1911, his preserved brick studio has an unusual harness he used for painting on flat canvases facedown (dating from his “dot” period). The museum’s decorative-arts collection, located here and in a separate gallery across the street, includes more than 3,300 pieces ranging from teacups to armchairs, and there are also more than 700 works by notable Colorado artists other than Kirkland.

1311 Pearl St. 303/832-8576. www.kirklandmuseum.org. Admission $7 adults, $6 students, teachers, and seniors. Children 13–17 must be accompanied by an adult. Children 12 and under are not permitted due to the fragile nature of the collection. Tues–Sun 11am–5pm. Guided tour Wed–Sat at 1:30pm. Closed major holidays.

Lakewood’s Heritage Center at Belmar Park In Denver’s early days, many wealthy residents maintained summer estates in the rural Lakewood area, and this historic village tells their story as well as that of others who lived and worked here. For an introduction to the museum, your first stop should be the visitor center; you can begin a personalized guided or self-guided tour here. The village includes an 1870s farmhouse, a 1920s one-room school, a 1950s variety store, and the Barn Gallery. There’s an exhibit on “Lakewood People and Places,” antique and vintage farm machinery, self-guided history walks through the surrounding 127-acre park, changing art exhibits, and a picnic area. Also on-site are an amphitheater and festival area, which hosts a summer concert series and a slate of seasonal fairs and celebrations. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

801 S. Yarrow Blvd. (near Wadsworth and Ohio), Lakewood. 303/987-7850. Free admission; guided tours $5 adults, $4 seniors, $2.50 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; guided tours at 11am, 1pm, and 3pm. Closed Sun–Mon.

Museo de las Americas ★ Billed as the only museum in the Rocky Mountains focusing exclusively on the art, culture, and history of Latinos, the Museo is worth a stop, as is a stroll through the colorful surrounding gallery- and taquería-laden neighborhood. The exhibits here change regularly, and a semipermanent exhibit tells the story of pre-Columbian Latin America, with a replica of an ornate sunstone and exhibits on Tenochtitlán, the Aztec metropolis (on the site of present-day Mexico City) destroyed by invading Spaniards in the 16th century. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

861 Santa Fe Dr. 303/571-4401. www.museo.org. Admission $4 adults, $3 seniors and students, free for children 12 and under. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Open with free admission 5–9pm on the 1st Fri of the month.

Museum of Contemporary Art Denver ★ Having moved in 2007 into a translucent new LEED-certified structure in LoDo (actually three buildings wrapped in glass), this is a stark canvas for the artists who are on center stage here. Five galleries are dedicated to five different disciplines (photography, paper works, large works, new mediums, and projects), and only one artist at a time occupies a given gallery; most works were created for their exhibition or are a year or two old. An interesting library showcases influences of the artists currently on display. There is also a small gift shop full of books and oddball knickknacks. Free guided tours are available at 11:30am and 3pm, and numerous special events are held in the evening. Allow 1 hour.

1485 Delgany St. 303/298-7554. www.mcadenver.org. Admission $10 adults, $5 seniors and students, free for children 5 and under. $1 discount for those who come by public transportation, foot, or bike. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm (until 10pm Fri).

The Wildlife Experience ★ Located near the Denver Technological Center, this impressive museum has three focuses: natural history, nature films, and wildlife art, with nine galleries of paintings, sculptures, and photography. The museum’s aim is to educate visitors about conservation and the delicate balance between people and the environment, and to do it in an aesthetically pleasing fashion. It accomplishes the task with such highlights as a National Geographic Channel screening room, the two-story 3-D and animatronic Globeology, and an interactive Children’s Gallery. Also here are a 315-seat Iwerks Extreme Screen Theater, a restaurant, and a gift shop. Allow 1 hour.

10035 S. Peoria St. 720/488-3300. www.thewildlifeexperience.org. Admission $10 adults, $9 seniors, $6 children; theater tickets combination museum/theater tickets $14 adults, $13 seniors, $9 children. Tues–Sun 9am–5pm. Closed major holidays and nonholiday Mon. Located 1 mile east of I-25 via Lincoln Ave. (exit 193).

Wings Over the Rockies Air & Space Museum ★ More than 40 planes and spacecraft occupy cavernous Hangar No. 1, which became a museum when Lowry Air Force Base closed in 1995; now it’s a burgeoning residential area about 6 miles southeast of downtown. On display are antique biplanes, a search-and-rescue helicopter, a B-52 Stratofortress, a massive B-1A bomber—one of only two in existence—and most of the F-100 fighter series. You can also see a World War II uniform collection, a Norden bombsight, U3A Blue Canoe, and the Freedom space module, plus seasonal exhibits. On each month’s second Saturday the museum hosts “Demo Cockpit Day,” when visitors get to climb into the planes’ cockpits from 10am to 2pm. Sci-fi fans take note: A full-size X-Wing prop used in the filming of Star Wars is on permanent display. The store is filled with aviation- and space-oriented souvenirs. Allow 1 1/2 hours.

7711 E. Academy Blvd., Hangar No. 1. 303/360-5360. www.wingsmuseum.org. Admission $9 adults, $8 seniors, $6 children 4–12, free for children 3 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun noon–5pm. Bus: 65.

Parks, Gardens & Zoos

Butterfly Pavilion ★★ A walk through the butterfly conservatory introduces the visitor to a world of grace and beauty. The constant mist creates a hazy habitat to support the lush green plants that are both food and home to the 1,200 butterfly inhabitants representing 50 species at any given time. If you stand still for a few minutes, a butterfly might land on you, but don’t try to pick up the butterflies—the oils on your hands contaminate their senses, interfering with their ability to find food. One display describes the differences among butterflies, moths, and skippers, and color charts help with identification.

In the “Crawl-A-See-Um,” meet arthropods (the scientific name for insects) that are native to Colorado, and see exotic species from around the world. A fascinating “touch cart” allows you to get up close to a cockroach or tarantula, assuming that you really want to. Also on the premises are a large gift shop and a snack bar. Outside, a.5-mile nature trail meanders amid cactuses and other desert-friendly plants. Allow 2 to 3 hours.

6252 W. 104th Ave., Westminster. 303/469-5441. www.butterflies.org. Admission $9 adults, $7 seniors, $6 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Daily 9am–5pm. Take the Denver-Boulder Turnpike (U.S. 36) to W. 104th Ave. and go east for about a block. The pavilion is on your right.

City Park Denver’s largest urban park covers 330 acres on the east side of uptown. Established in 1881, it retains Victorian touches. The park encompasses two lakes (with boat rentals and fishing), athletic fields, jogging and walking trails, a free children’s water feature, playgrounds, tennis courts, picnic areas, and an 18-hole municipal golf course. In summer, there are concerts and other special events. The park is also the site of the Denver Zoo (see below) and the Denver Museum of Nature & Science, including its IMAX Theater.

E. 17th to E. 26th aves., btw. York St. and Colorado Blvd. Free admission to park. Separate admission to zoo, museum, golf course, and other sites. Bus: 24 or 32.

Denver Botanic Gardens ★★ Twenty-three acres of outstanding outdoor and indoor gardens display plants native to the desert, plains, mountain foothills, and alpine zones. There’s also a traditional Japanese garden, an herb garden, a water garden, a fragrance garden, and a garden inspired by the art of Monet. Even in the cold of winter, the greenhouses house thousands of species of tropical and subtropical plants. Huge, colorful orchids and bromeliads share space with a collection of plants used for food, fibers, dyes, building materials, and medicines. New is a kid’s garden, complete with Marmot Mountain; a Science Pyramid is in the works. The Botanic Gardens also have a gift shop, a library, and an auditorium. Special events, scheduled throughout the year, range from garden concerts in summer to a spring plant sale to a cornfield maze southwest of Denver in the fall. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

1005 York St. 720/865-3500. www.botanicgardens.org. Admission $13 adults, $9.50 seniors, $9 children 4–15 and students with ID, and free for children 3 and under. May–Sept daily 9am–9pm; Oct–Apr daily 9am–5pm. Bus: 2, 10, or 24.

Denver Mountain Parks ★★ Formally established in August 1913, the city’s Mountain Parks system immediately began acquiring land in the mountains near Denver to be set aside for recreational use. Today it includes more than 14,000 acres, with 24 developed mountain parks and 22 unnamed wilderness areas that are wonderful places for hiking, picnicking, bird-watching, golfing, or lazing in the grass and sun.

The first and largest, Genesee Park, is 20 miles west of Denver off I-70, exit 254; its 2,341 acres contain the Chief Hosa Lodge and Campground (the only overnight camping available in the system), picnic areas with fireplaces, a softball field, a scenic overlook, and an elk-and-buffalo enclosure.

Among the system’s other parks is Echo Lake, about 45 minutes from downtown Denver on Colo. 103. At 10,600 feet elevation on Mount Evans, the park has good fishing, hiking, and picnicking, plus a restaurant and curio shop. Other parks include 1,000-acre Daniels Park (23 miles south of Denver; take I-25 to Castle Pines Parkway, and then go west to the park), which offers picnic areas, a bison enclosure, and a scenic overlook; Red Rocks Park, just southwest of Denver in Morrison, featuring the famed amphitheater, a trading post, a museum that covers both natural history and rock ’n’ roll, and hiking trails amid the red sandstone formations (see www.redrocksonline.com); and Dedisse Park (2 miles west of Evergreen on Colo. 74), which provides picnic facilities, a golf course, a restaurant, a clubhouse, and opportunities for ice-skating, fishing, and volleyball.

Dept. of Parks and Recreation. 303/697-4545. www.denvergov.org. Free admission.

Denver Zoo ★★ More than 700 species of animals (nearly 4,000 individuals) live in this spacious zoological park, home to the rare deerlike okapi as well as to Siberian tigers, Komodo dragons, and western lowland gorillas. The newest (and most ambitious) habitat here is Predator Ridge, a re-created African savanna with lions, hyenas, and other African predators. The exhibit is modeled after a Kenyan preserve, complete with artificial termite mounds that dispense insects for the banded mongoose that live here. The zoo has long been an innovator in re-creating realistic habitats: Bear Mountain, built in 1918, was the first animal exhibit in the United States constructed of simulated concrete rockwork.

The zoo is home to the nation’s first natural gas–powered train ($2). An especially kid-friendly attraction is the Conversation Carousel ($2), featuring wood-carved renditions of such endangered species as okapi, polar bears, Komodo dragons, and hippos. A cafeteria with an outdoor eating area serves full meals, and picnicking is popular, too. Feeding times are posted near the zoo entrance so you can time your visit to see the animals when they are most active. Allow from 2 hours to a whole day.

City Park, 2300 Steele St. (main entrance btw. Colorado Blvd. and York St. on 23rd Ave.). 303/376-4800. www.denverzoo.org. Admission $13 adults summer, $10 adults winter; $10 seniors 62 and over summer, $8 seniors winter; $8 children 3–12 (accompanied by an adult) summer, $6 children winter; free for children 2 and under. Apr–Sept daily 9am–5pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–4pm. Bus: 24 or 32.

Downtown Aquarium Denver’s state-of-the-art aquarium—the largest between Chicago and Monterey, California—opened in 1999 as a nonprofit, went belly-up, and in 2003 was sold to the for-profit Landry’s seafood restaurant chain. The sale brought the aquarium stability, not to mention new exhibits and a theme restaurant and lounge on-site. Residents include greenback cutthroat trout (the Colorado state fish), river otters, tigers, nurse sharks, sea turtles, and moray eels. Among the other exhibits: a flash-flood simulation, a gold-panning and mining display, “Stingray Reef” (visitors can pet and feed the slippery denizens), and a lifelike animatronic orangutan. On Saturdays, licensed divers and novice snorkelers can swim in the big tanks for a fee (about $175 for divers, $75 for snorkelers). Allow 2 hours.

700 Water St., just east of I-25 via 23rd Ave. (exit 211). 303/561-4450. www.aquariumrestaurants.com. Admission before 6pm $16 adults, $15 seniors, $10 children 3–11, free for children 2 and under. Discounts available after 6pm or with receipt from restaurant. Sun–Thurs 10am–9pm; Fri–Sat 10am–9:30pm. Closed Dec 25. Bus: 28. Light rail: Pepsi Center/Elitch Gardens.

Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge Once a site where the U.S. Army manufactured chemical weapons such as mustard gas and GB nerve agent, and later leased to a private enterprise to produce pesticides, the Rocky Mountain Arsenal has become an environmental success story. The 27-square-mile Superfund cleanup site, an area of open grasslands and wetlands just west of Denver International Airport, is home to more than 330 species, including deer, coyotes, prairie dogs, birds of prey, and, since 2007, bison. This is one of the country’s largest eagle-roosting locales during the winter.

The Rocky Mountain Arsenal Wildlife Society Bookstore is at the visitor center, and there are about 15 miles of hiking trails as well as catch-and-release fishing. Allow at least an hour.

56th Ave. at Quebec St. 303/289-0930. www.fws.gov/rockymountainarsenal. Free admission. Tues–Sun 6am–6pm. Bus: 88.

Amusement Parks & Places Especially for Kids

Denver abounds in child-oriented activities, and the listings below will probably appeal to young travelers of any age. In addition, some sights listed in the previous sections may appeal to families. They include the Butterfly Pavilion and Insect Center, Colorado History Museum, Downtown Aquarium, Denver Art Museum, Denver Museum of Miniatures Dolls & Toys, Denver Museum of Nature and Science, Denver Zoo, Four Mile Historic Park, and the U.S. Mint.

Children’s Museum of Denver ★ Denver’s best hands-on experience for children, this intriguing museum is both educational and just plain fun. Focusing on children 8 years old and younger, the museum uses educational “playscapes” to entertain and activate young minds. These exhibits include “CMD Fire Station No. 1,” which teaches fire safety, and “My Market,” a faux supermarket that allows kids to role-play as shoppers and clerks. There are several other playscapes with themes ranging from biology to engineering. There’s also a resource center that provides parenting information to adults, and a cafe that serves sandwiches, snacks, and beverages. Allow at least 2 hours.

2121 Children’s Museum Dr. 303/433-7444. www.mychildsmuseum.org. Admission $8 ages 2–59, $6 for 1-year-olds and seniors 60 and over, free for children under 1. Mon–Fri 9am–4pm (until 7:30pm Wed); Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Take exit 211 (23rd Ave.) east off I-25; turn right on 7th St., and again on Children’s Museum Dr. Bus: 28.

The Big Blue bear

Denver has a new face to the world, and it’s peering into the second floor of the Colorado Convention Center. Known popularly as “The Big Blue Bear,” the 40-foot blue ursine immediately became Denver’s most photogenic piece of public art when it was installed in 2005. Sculptor Lawrence Argent designed the big fella—officially named I See What You Mean—and then a California-based fabricator shaped him out of 5 tons of steel, fiberglass, and cement; transported him to Colorado in sections; and bolted him into place.

The sculpture is located right by the convention center’s 14th Street entrance, and can be photographed from inside or out. For a Denver souvenir, it’s hard to beat the little blue bear replicas available at the Denver Art Museum, inside the Colorado Convention Center, and at the visitor information center at 16th and California streets.

Elitch Gardens Theme Park ★ A Denver tradition established in 1889, this amusement park moved to its present downtown site in 1995. The 45-plus rides include Twister II, an unbelievable 10-story roller coaster with a 90-foot drop and dark tunnel; the Mind Eraser, a coaster where your feet dangle as you’re harnessed in at the shoulders; the Halfpipe, a snowboarding-themed thrill ride that involves 16 passengers on a 39-foot board; the 220-foot, free-fall Tower of Doom; and a fully restored 1925 carousel with 67 hand-carved horses and chariots. Patrons of all ages can enjoy the Island Kingdom Water Park while the little ones have fun on pint-size rides in their own area. There are also musical revues and stunt shows, games and arcades, food, shopping, and beautiful flower gardens. Allow 3 hours.

Speer Blvd., at I-25, exit 212A. 303/595-4386. www.elitchgardens.com. Gate admission with unlimited rides $39 for those taller than 4 ft., $28 for those 4 ft. and under, free for children 3 and under and seniors 70 and older. Online ticket specials available. Parking $10. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 10am–9pm; Apr to late May and early Sept to Oct weekends (call for hours). Light rail: C Line, Pepsi Center/Elitch Gardens.

Lakeside Amusement Park Among the largest and most historic amusement parks in the Rocky Mountains, Lakeside has about 40 rides, including a Cyclone roller coaster, a midway with carnival and arcade games, and a rare steam-powered miniature train from the early 20th century that circles the lake. There are also food stands and picnic facilities, plus a separate Kiddie’s Playland with 15 rides. Allow 3 hours.

4601 Sheridan Blvd. (just south of I-70, exit 271). 303/477-1621. www.lakesideamusementpark.com. Admission $2.50. Ride coupons 50¢ (rides require 1–6 coupons each); unlimited rides $14 Mon–Fri, $20 Sat–Sun and holidays. May Sat–Sun and holidays noon–10pm; June to Labor Day Mon–Fri 6–10pm, Sat–Sun and holidays noon–10pm. Kiddie’s Playland Mon–Fri 1–10pm, Sat–Sun and holidays noon–10pm. Closed from the day after Labor Day to Apr.

Tiny Town and Railroad Originally built by George Turner for his daughter in 1915 at the site of a Denver-Leadville stagecoach stop, Tiny Town is exactly what its name implies—a one-sixth-scale Western village. Nestled in a scenic mountain canyon about 20 miles southeast of downtown Denver, Tiny Town is made up of 100 colorful buildings and a steam-powered locomotive that visitors can ride for an additional $1. Allow 1 hour.

6249 S. Turkey Creek Rd., Tiny Town. 303/697-6829. www.tinytownrailroad.com. Admission $5 adults, $3 children 2–12, free for children 1 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 10am–5pm; May and Sept Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Oct–Apr. Located 20 miles southeast of downtown via U.S. 285 (Hampden Ave.).

Water World ★ This 64-acre complex, billed as America’s largest family water park, has two ocean-like wave pools, river rapids for inner tubing, twisting water slides, several kids’ play areas, a gondola to the country’s first water-based fun house, plus other attractions—more than 40 in all—as well as food service and other amenities. Allow at least 4 hours.

88th Ave. and Pecos St., Federal Heights. 303/427-SURF (7873). www.waterworldcolorado.com. Admission $35 for those 48 in. and taller, $30 for those 40–47 in., free for seniors and children 39 in. and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 10am–6pm. Closed rest of year and some school days in Aug. Take the Thornton exit (exit 219, 84th Ave.) off I-25 north.

Walking Tour: Downtown Denver

Walking Tour: Downtown Denver

Start: Denver Information Center, Civic Center Park, on West Colfax Avenue at 14th Street.

Finish: State Capitol, Civic Center Park.

Time: 2 to 8 hours, depending on how much time you spend shopping, eating, and sightseeing.

Best Times: Any Tuesday through Friday in late spring.

Worst Times: Monday and holidays, when the museums are closed.

Begin your tour at:

1 Civic Center Park

This 2-square-block oasis features a Greek amphitheater, fountains, statues, flower gardens, and 30 different species of trees, two of which (it is said) were originally planted by Abraham Lincoln at his Illinois home.

Overlooking the park on its east side is the State Capitol. On its south side is the:

2 Denver Public Library

The multihued 1990s building by architect Michael Graves is considered a great example of postmodern architecture, with different shapes and colors emerging from the main building.

On the south side of the Denver Public Library, you’ll find the:

3 Denver Art Museum

With buildings designed by Gio Ponti of Italy and Daniel Libeskind of Germany, the art museum is an architectural wonder. Inside are more than 35,000 works of art, including renowned Western and American Indian collections.

On the west side of Civic Center Park is the:

4 City & County Building

During the Christmas season, a rainbow of energy-efficient LED lights decorates it in spectacular fashion.

A block farther west is the:

5 U.S. Mint

Modeled in Italian Renaissance style, the building resembles the Palazzo Riccardi in Florence. More than 60,000 cubic feet of granite and 1,000 tons of steel went into its construction in 1904.

Cross over Colfax and go diagonally northwest up Court Place. Two blocks ahead is the:

6 Denver Pavilions

The city’s newest retail hot spot sits at the south end of the 16th Street Mall, featuring a Hard Rock Cafe, a 15-screen movie theater, and a Barnes & Noble Superstore.

Three blocks up the 16th Street Mall, head southwest 2 blocks on California Street past the Colorado Convention Center and turn right on 14th Street. Walk 2 blocks to the:

7 Denver Performing Arts Complex

The complex covers 4 square blocks between 14th Street and Cherry Creek, Champa Street, and Arapahoe Street. The entrance is under a block-long, 80-foot-high glass archway. The center includes seven theaters, a symphony hall in the round, a voice research laboratory, and much more. Free tours are offered.

Two more blocks up 14th Street, past the arts center is:

8 Larimer Square

This is Denver’s oldest commercial district. Restored late-19th-century Victorian buildings accommodate more than 30 shops and a dozen restaurants and clubs. Colorful awnings, hanging flower baskets, and quiet open courtyards accent the square, once home to such notables as Buffalo Bill Cody and Bat Masterson. Horse-drawn carriage rides originate here for trips up the 16th Street Mall or through lower downtown.

9 TAKE A BREAK

Stop at Rioja, 1431 Larimer St., between 14th and 15th sts. ( 303/820-2282), or one of the patios on Larimer Square for a drink and people-watching. (See review.)

A walkway at the east corner of Larimer and 15th leads through:

10 Writer Square

Quaint gas lamps, brick walkways, and outdoor cafes dot this shopping-and-dining complex.

At 16th Street, cross to the:

11 Tabor Center

The glass-enclosed shopping-and-entertainment complex spreads over three levels, in effect a 2-block-long greenhouse.

To the east, the Tabor Center is anchored by the:

12 D&F Tower

The city landmark was patterned after the campanile of St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice, Italy, in 1910. In the basement is a performing arts venue, Lannie’s Clocktower Cabaret.

Head northwest along 16th Street, then turn right on Wynkoop Street and go 4 blocks to LoDo’s centerpiece:

13 Coors Field

The anchor of the vital LoDo (“Lower Downtown”) neighborhood and the home of baseball’s Colorado Rockies, the stadium is right at home amid the Victorian redbricks. There are plenty of eateries and bars in the area, as well as transportation hubs in Union Station and Market Street Station, plus a few shops.

Here, head southeast to 16th Street and begin a leisurely stroll down the:

14 16th Street Mall

This picture-perfect urban pedestrian-only stretch of 16th affords the finest people-watching spot in the city. You’ll see everyone from street entertainers to lunching office workers to travelers like yourself. Built of red and gray granite, it is lined with 200 red oak trees, a dozen fountains, and a lighting system straight out of Star Wars. You’ll also see outdoor cafes, restored Victorian buildings, modern skyscrapers, and hundreds of shops—with an emphasis on sports—plus restaurants and department stores. If you are done with walking, sleek natural gas-powered shuttle buses run through, offering free transportation up and down the mall as often as every 90 seconds.

You’ll walk 7 blocks down 16th Street from the Tabor Center before reaching Tremont Place. Turn left, go 1 block farther, and across the street, on your right, you’ll see the:

15 Brown Palace Hotel

One of the most beautiful grande dame hotels in the United States, it was built in 1892 and features a nine-story atrium lobby topped by a Tiffany stained-glass ceiling. Step into the lobby for a look. On Wednesdays and Saturdays at 3pm, historical tours ($10) are offered.

Continue across Broadway on East 17th Avenue. Go 2 blocks to Sherman Street, turn right, and proceed 2 blocks south on Sherman to East Colfax Avenue. You’re back overlooking Civic Center Park, but this time you’re at the:

16 State Capitol

If you stand on the 13th step on the west side of the building, you’re exactly 5,280 feet (1 mile) above sea level. Architects modeled the Colorado capitol after the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C., and used the world’s entire known supply of rare rose onyx in its interior wainscoting.

Organized Tours

Visitors who want to be personally guided to the attractions of Denver and the surrounding areas by those in the know have a variety of choices. In addition to the following, see “Escorted General-Interest Tours” and “Special-Interest Trips,” in chapter 3.

Half- and full-day bus tours of Denver and the nearby Rockies are offered by the ubiquitous Gray Line, P.O. Box 17646, Denver, CO 80217 ( 800/348-6877 or 303/289-2841; www.grayline.com). Fares for children 12 and under are half the adult prices listed below. Prices include entry fees but usually no food. Tours depart from the Cherry Creek Shopping Center at 1st Avenue and Milwaukee Street, as well as from local hotels and hostels on a reservation basis.

A 4-hour tour (no. 27), leaving at 1:30pm, takes in Denver’s mountain parks: Red Rocks Park, Bergen Park, and Buffalo Bill’s grave atop Lookout Mountain. It costs $40 for adults. The 3 1/2-hour Denver city tour (no. 28), which departs daily at 8:30am and 1:30pm, gives you a taste of both old Denver—through Larimer Square and other historic buildings—and the modern-day city. It’s $35 for adults. The city tour combined with the mountain-parks tour costs $70. Gray Line also offers tours of Rocky Mountain National Park, Golden and Morrison, and the Colorado Springs area; call or check the website for information.

The Colorado Sightseer, 7290 Samuel Dr., Suite 150, Denver, CO 80221 ( 800/255-5105 or 303/423-8200; www.coloradosightseer.com), leads guided tours of Denver and environs. The Historic Denver tour includes a visit to LoDo and some of the city’s earliest buildings, the State Capitol, the Molly Brown House, and Four Mile Historic Park. It lasts about 4 hours and costs $45 per person. A Rocky Mountain National Park tour, lasting about 9 1/2 hours, costs $95 per person, including a box lunch. The 4 1/2-hour Foothills Tour includes stops at Coors Brewery, the Buffalo Bill memorial, and scenic Red Rocks Park. The cost is $45 per person.

The LoDo District ( 303/628-5428; www.lodo.org) leads guided walking tours of the storied area June to October. Tours depart from Union Station (17th and Wynkoop sts.) on Wednesdays at 2 and 4pm; the cost is $10 adults, $5 students, and free for those 12 and under. They also offer adults-only tours focusing on the seamy side of the city’s history on Saturday afternoons for $20. Take advantage of your cellphone with Rocky Mountain Audio Guides ( 303/898-7073; www.rmaguides.com), which delivers 40- and 80-minute walking tours of downtown Denver. Call 24 hours before your tour to purchase ($15–$25); then you simply dial a number and walk around town, guided via satellite.

Bicycling & Multisport Tours

The World Outdoors ( 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0938; www.theworldoutdoors.com) offers a 6-day, 5-night multisport hut-to-hut tour that begins and ends in Vail (100 miles west of Denver). The huts, which are pretty plush for backcountry accommodations, serve as recreational headquarters for guests, who have plenty of hiking, rafting, and sightseeing opportunities between mountain-biking treks. The trips aren’t cheap, costing around $1,500 per person, but this is a great way for the outdoors enthusiast to enjoy the Rockies west of Denver. Available in June and August, tours include meals but not biking and camping gear.

Colorado Mountain Expeditions ( 888/263-4453 or 970/759-8737; www.coloradotrailhiking.com) offers supported weeklong treks on the Colorado Trail (which runs 483 miles from Denver to Durango) for $925 per person, all meals included. The beauty of these trips: You only carry a day pack for 10 to 20 miles each day. A support crew sets up your camp and makes your meals while you focus on the trail, not the campsite.

Another company that offers weeklong tours in the area is Bicycle Tour of Colorado ( 303/985-1180; www.bicycletourcolorado.com). For $350 to $400, a biker can join a tour involving about 1,500 riders and 70 volunteers—including medical and bike-tech support as well as guiding services—on a 400-mile journey that hits six different cities each year, crossing the Continental Divide several times in the process. Although accommodations can be prearranged at hotels, most riders elect to stay at facilities provided by the city (for example, the local high school). All meals are provided for the one fee for the week.

A good resource for bicyclists is the Denver Bicycle Touring Club (www.dbtc.org), which organizes local rides and publishes a monthly newsletter. See also “Bicycling & Skateboarding,” below.

Outdoor Activities

The Skinny on Denver

According to the statisticians, Denver has the highest proportion of thin people of any city in the country. A 2010 study showed Colorado to be the state with the lowest percentage of the population to be overweight.

Denver’s proximity to the Rocky Mountains makes it possible to spend a day skiing, snowmobiling, horseback riding, hiking, river running, sailing, fishing, hunting, mountain climbing, or rockhounding and return to the city by nightfall. Within the city limits and nearby, visitors will find more than 200 miles of jogging and bicycle paths, more than 100 free tennis courts, and several dozen public golf courses.

The city has an excellent system of Mountain Parks ( 303/697-4545), covering more than 14,000 acres, which are discussed earlier in this chapter in the “Parks, Gardens & Zoos” section.

Campsites are easy to reach from Denver, as are suitable sites for hang gliding and hot-air ballooning. Sailing is popular within the city at Sloan’s Lake (a Denver City Park), and the Platte River is clear for many miles of river running in rafts, kayaks, and canoes.

The Denver Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau (see “Visitor Information,” in chapter 5) can supply detailed information about activities in the city. Information on nearby outdoor activities is available from Colorado State Parks, 1313 Sherman St., Suite 618, Denver, CO 80203 ( 303/866-3437; www.parks.state.co.us); the U.S. Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Region, 740 Simms St., Golden, CO 80401 ( 303/275-5350; www.fs.fed.us); the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, 2850 Youngfield St., Lakewood, CO 80215 ( 303/239-3600; www.co.blm.gov); and the National Park Service’s Intermountain Region headquarters, 12795 W. Alameda Pkwy., Lakewood, CO 80228 ( 303/969-2000; www.nps.gov).

Visitors who don’t bring the necessary equipment should hit the REI Flagship store, 1416 Platte St. ( 303/756-3100); its rental department is stocked with tents, backpacks, stoves, mountaineering equipment, kayaks, and other gear.

Ballooning You can’t beat a hot-air balloon ride for viewing the magnificent Rocky Mountain scenery. Rocky Mountain Hot Air ( 303/936-0292; www.rockymountainhotair.com) offers sunrise flights daily, launching from Chatfield State park south of town. The cost is usually $195 to $225 per person.

Bicycling & Skateboarding The paved bicycle paths that crisscross Denver include a 12-mile scenic stretch along the bank of the South Platte River and along Cherry Creek beside Speer Boulevard. All told, the city has more than 85 miles of off-road trails for bikers and runners. Bike paths link the city’s 205 parks, and many streets have bike lanes. In all, the city has more than 130 miles of designated bike paths and lanes. Mountain bikers will take delight in the foothills; one option is Waterton Canyon, where single track connects metro Denver and Deckers. For more information, contact Bike Denver (www.bikedenver.org) or Bicycle Colorado ( 303/417-1544; www.bicyclecolo.org). Bike tours are available from several companies and clubs (see “Organized Tours,” above). The Cherry Creek Bike Rack, 171 Detroit St. ( 303/388-1630; www.cherrycreekbikerack.com), offers rentals ($27–$35 a day), service, and free parking for bikes. The city also has installed numerous B-Cycle kiosks (http://denver.b-cycle.com), with short-term rental bikes avail for a $5 daily fee plus fees for how long you use a the bike before returning it to another kiosk.

Denver also has the largest free skateboarding park (3 acres) in the country, the Denver Skatepark, 19th and Little Raven sts. ( 720/913-1311; www.denverskatepark.com). It is quite popular and open from 5am to 11pm.

Boating A quiet way to view some of downtown Denver is from a punt on scenic Cherry Creek. Venice on the Creek ( 303/893-0750; www.veniceonthecreek.com) operates from June to August, Thursday to Sunday from 5 to 10pm. On weekdays it accommodates only groups of 12 or more; smaller groups are taken on weekends. Guides describe the history of the city while pointing out landmarks. Tickets are available at the kiosk at Creekfront Plaza, at the intersection of Speer Boulevard and Larimer Street. A 30- to 40-minute trip costs $50 to $75 for a private boat. Also downtown, you can rent a kayak ($25–$50 a day) and take kayaking classes ($49 per session) at Confluence Kayaks, 2373 15th St., unit B ( 303/433-3676; www.confluencekayaks.com).

In the outlying areas, you’ll find powerboat marinas at Cherry Creek State Park, 4201 S. Parker Rd., Aurora ( 303/690-1166), 11 miles from downtown off I-225; and Chatfield State Park, 11500 N. Roxborough Park Rd., Littleton ( 303/791-7275), 16 miles south of downtown Denver. Jet-skiing and sailboarding are also permitted at both parks. Sailboarding, canoeing, and other wakeless boating are popular at Barr Lake State Park, 13401 Picadilly Rd., Brighton ( 303/659-6005), 21 miles northeast of downtown on I-76. For more information on these parks, see “Great Nearby State Parks,” later in this chapter, or visit http://parks.state.co.us.

For a different watersports experience, try riverboarding with RipBoard ( 866/311-2627 or 303/904-8367; www.ripboard.com), which entails going down Clear Creek face-first with flippers on your feet and a helmet on your head. It’s exciting and exhausting, but can be a lot of fun in the right water. Lessons (including equipment) are $135 for 4 hours (including a credit toward a RipBoard purchase); rentals and sales are also available.

For information on other boating opportunities, contact Colorado State Parks, the National Park Service, or the U.S. Forest Service (see above).

Fishing A couple of good bets in the metropolitan area are Chatfield State Park, with trout, bass, and panfish, and Cherry Creek State Park, which boasts trout, walleye pike, bass, and crappie (see “Boating,” above). In all, there are more than 7,100 miles of streams and 2,000 reservoirs and lakes in Colorado. For information, contact Colorado State Parks, the Colorado Division of Wildlife ( 303/297-1192), or the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ( 303/236-7920). Within Denver city limits, the Denver Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) stocks a number of lakes with fish.

A number of sporting-goods stores can provide more detailed information. The skilled and experienced staff at Anglers All, 5211 S. Santa Fe Dr. ( 303/794-1104; www.anglersall.com), can help with equipment choices and recommendations for where to go. Anglers All also offers lessons, seminars, clinics, and guided wade trips ($350 a day for two people).

Golf Throughout the Front Range, it’s often said that you can play golf at least 320 days a year, because the sun always seems to be shining, and even when it snows, the little snow that sticks melts quickly. There are more than 50 courses in the Denver area, including seven municipal golf courses, with nonresident greens fees from $22 to $35 for 18 holes and $8 to $18 for 9. City courses are City Park Golf Course, East 25th Avenue and York Street ( 303/295-2096); Evergreen Golf Course, 29614 Upper Bear Creek Rd., Evergreen ( 303/674-6351); the par-3 Harvard Gulch Golf Course, East Iliff Avenue and South Clarkson Street ( 303/698-4078); Kennedy Golf Course, 10500 E. Hampden Ave. ( 303/751-0311); Overland Park Golf Course, South Santa Fe Drive and West Jewell Avenue ( 303/777-7331); Wellshire Golf Course, 3333 S. Colorado Blvd. ( 303/692-5636); and Willis Case Golf Course, 4999 Vrain St. near West 50th Avenue ( 303/458-4877). Wellshire is the best overall course, but I prefer Willis Case for its spectacular mountain views.

You can make same-day reservations by calling the starter ( 303/458-4877) or visiting www.denvergov.org/golf; otherwise, nonresident golfers can purchase a $10 card at City Park, Wellshire, or Willis Case, and then make reservations through the automated phone system ( 303/784-4000) or the website. Non-cardholders can only make reservations 3 days in advance, while cardholders can make them up to 5 days in advance. The exception to this policy is Evergreen Golf Course, where you can call the starter for reservations 3 days in advance. For information on any course, you can also call the Denver golf office ( 303/370-1554).

An 18-hole Frisbee golf course is located at Lakewood Gulch, near Federal Boulevard and 12th Street. Call the Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) for more information.

Hiking & Backpacking The Colorado Trail ★★ is a hiking, horse, and mountain-biking route stretching 500 miles from Denver to Durango. The trail is also open to cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and llama-pack hiking. Opened in 1988, the trail is still being fine-tuned. It took 15 years to establish, using volunteer labor, and crosses eight mountain ranges and five river systems, winding from rugged terrain to pristine meadows. For information, contact the Colorado Trail Foundation, 710 10th St., Room 210, Golden, CO 80401-1022 ( 303/384-3729; www.coloradotrail.org). Beyond being a source of information, the foundation maintains and improves the trail, publishes relevant guidebooks, and offers supported treks (see “Bicycling & Multisport Tours,” above) and accredited courses.

For hikes in the Denver area, contact the city Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) for information on Denver’s park system. Or contact any of the following agencies: Colorado State Parks, Colorado Division of Wildlife, National Park Service, U.S. Bureau of Land Management, or U.S. Forest Service (see the introduction to this section and “Fishing,” above). A good source for the many published area maps and hiking guides is REI, 1416 Platte St., Denver ( 303/756-3100).

Above Red Rocks Park, 4,000-acre Mount Falcon Park ★ ( 303/271-5925) offers excellent trails that are easy to moderate in difficulty, making this a good place for families with children. There are also picnic areas, shelters, and ruins of an old castlelike home of late local entrepreneur John Brisben Walker, the visionary behind Red Rocks Amphitheatre. From Denver, go west on U.S. 285, north on Parmalee Gulch Road, and follow the signs; the park is open daily from dawn to dusk, and admission is free. Mountain bikes and horseback riding are permitted, as are leashed dogs.

Other relatively easy trails near Denver are in Roxborough State Park ( 303/973-3959), 10 miles south of Littleton—the 1-mile Willow Creek Trail and the 2.3-mile Fountain Valley Trail ★. There are several more strenuous trails at Roxborough, which are worth the effort if you enjoy beautiful red rocks and the chance to see wildlife. To get to Roxborough Park, exit Colo. 470 south onto U.S. 85, turn west onto Titan Road, and then go south again at Roxborough Park Road to the main entrance. Admission is $6 per passenger vehicle. The park is open daily from 8am to 8pm in summer, with shorter hours the rest of the year. Dogs, bikes, and horseback riding are not permitted.

Horseback Riding Equestrians can find a mount year-round at Stockton’s Plum Creek Stables, 7479 W. Titan Rd., Littleton ( 303/791-1966; www.stocktonsplumcreek.com), near Chatfield State Park, 15 miles south of downtown. Stockton’s offers hayrides and barbecue picnics, as well as lessons. Paint Horse Stables, 4201 S. Parker Rd., Aurora ( 303/690-8235; www.painthorsestables.net), at Cherry Creek State Park, also rents horses, boards horses, and provides riding lessons, trail rides, hayrides, and pony rides for kids.

Recreation Centers The Denver Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) operates about 30 recreation centers around the city, several of which have facilities oriented to seniors. Daily guest passes for all facilities, including swimming pools, cost $5.50 for adults, $2.75 for children 17 and under. Facilities vary but may include basketball courts, indoor or outdoor pools, gyms, and weight rooms. The centers offer fitness classes and other recreation programs, including programs for those with special needs. Call 720/913-0693 for current program information.

Among the city’s recreation centers are the following: Scheitler Recreation Center, 5031 W. 46th Ave. ( 720/865-0640), which has an indoor pool and a weight room; Martin Luther King, Jr., Recreation Center, 3880 Newport St. ( 720/865-0530), which is the nearest full-service center to Denver International Airport and has an indoor pool, a large gym, and a racquetball court; 20th Street Recreation Center, downtown at 1011 20th St., between Arapahoe and Curtis streets ( 720/865-0520), with an indoor pool and a weight room; and Washington Park Recreation Center, 701 S. Franklin St. ( 303/698-4962), with an indoor pool, an advanced weight room, a large gym, and walking and jogging trails. Browse www.denvergov.org/recreation for additional information.

Denver’s Dog Parks

In 2004, Denver began to allow canines to roam free at five parks within city limits, and there are dozens of off-leash parks in the metropolitan area as a whole. Contact the Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) for more information or visit www.denvergov.org/parks.

Skiing Several ski resorts close to the Front Range target primarily locals. They include Eldora Mountain Resort, 45 miles west ( 303/440-8700; www.eldora.com), which covers almost 700 acres and has 53 trails, with skiing rated 20% beginner, 50% intermediate, and 30% advanced. I ski Loveland Basin and Valley, 56 miles west of Denver on I-70, exit 216 ( 800/736-3754 or 303/569-3203; www.skiloveland.com), covering 1,570 acres and with 93 trails, rated 13% beginner, 41% intermediate, and 46% advanced. Winter Park Resort ★, 67 miles west of Denver on I-70 and U.S. 40 ( 970/726-5514 or 303/316-1564; www.winterparkresort.com), boasts 3,060 ski-able acres with 143 trails, rated 8% beginner, 17% intermediate, and 75% advanced. Adult lift tickets (2009–10 prices) ran $65 at Eldora, $44 to $59 at Loveland, and $92 at Winter Park; kids were $39, $21 to $25, and $49 respectively. Eldora and Winter Park offer Nordic as well as alpine terrain.

Full information on statewide skiing is available from Colorado Ski Country USA ( 303/837-0793; www.coloradoski.com) and the Colorado Cross Country Ski Association (www.colorado-xc.org).

Some useful Denver telephone numbers for skiers include ski-area information and snow report ( 303/825-7669), weather report ( 303/337-2500), and road conditions ( 303/639-1111).

Swimming The Denver Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) operates 16 outdoor swimming pools (open daily mid-June to mid-Aug) and 12 indoor pools (open Mon–Sat year-round). Nonresident fees are $3.50 for adults and $2.25 for children. See “Recreation Centers,” above.

Tennis The Denver Department of Parks and Recreation ( 720/913-1311) manages or owns close to 150 tennis courts, more than one-third of them lit for night play. Among the most popular courts are those in City Park (York St. and E. 17th Ave.), Berkeley Park (Tennyson St. and W. 17th Ave.), Green Valley East Ranch Park (Jebel St. and E. 45th Ave.), Washington Park (S. Downing St. and E. Louisiana Ave.), and Sloan’s Lake Park (Sheridan Blvd. and W. 17th Ave.). The public courts are free. For more information, contact the Colorado Tennis Association ( 303/695-4116; www.coloradotennis.com).

Great Nearby State Parks

Colorado has a number of excellent state parks offering a wide range of activities and scenery. Information on the state’s parks is available at www.parks.state.co.us.

Barr Lake State Park About 25 miles northeast of Denver on I-76 in Brighton, this wildlife sanctuary of almost 2,800 acres comprises a prairie reservoir and surrounding wetlands and uplands. Boats with motors exceeding 10 horsepower are not allowed, but you can sail, paddle, row, and fish. A 9-mile hiking and biking trail circles the lake. A boardwalk from the nature center at the south parking lot leads to a good view of a heron rookery, and bird blinds along this trail allow wildlife observation and photography. Three picnic areas provide tables and grills; there’s a commercial campground opposite the park on the west side. The entrance is at 13401 Picadilly Rd. Admission costs $6 per vehicle. Call 303/659-6005 for more information.

Castlewood Canyon State Park ★ Steep canyons, a meandering stream, a waterfall, lush vegetation, and considerable wildlife distinguish this 2,000-acre park. You can see the remains of Castlewood Canyon Dam, which was built for irrigation in 1890; it collapsed in 1933, killing two people and flooding the streets of Denver. The park, 30 miles south of Denver on Colo. 83, east of Castle Rock in Franktown, provides picnic facilities and hiking trails. The entrance is at 2989 S. State Hwy. 83; admission is $6 per vehicle. Call 303/688-5242 for more information.

Chatfield State Park ★ Sixteen miles south of downtown Denver on U.S. 85 in Littleton, this park occupies 5,600 acres of prairie against a backdrop of the steeply rising Rocky Mountains. Chatfield Reservoir, with a 26-mile shoreline, invites swimming, boating, fishing, and other watersports. The area also has 18 miles of paved bicycle trails, plus hiking and horseback-riding paths. In winter, there’s ice fishing and cross-country skiing. The park also has a hot-air-balloon launchpad, a radio-controlled model aircraft field, and a 21-acre man-made wetlands area.

Facilities include 197 pull-through campsites, showers, laundry, and a dump station. Admission is $7 per vehicle; the camping fee is $20 to $24 daily. The entrance is 1 mile south of C-470 on Wadsworth Boulevard ( 303/791-7275). Call 800/678-2267 or 303/470-4144 for camping reservations.

Cherry Creek State Park The 880-acre Cherry Creek Reservoir, created for flood control by the construction of a dam in 1950, is the central attraction of this popular park, which draws 1.5 million visitors each year. Located at the southeast Denver city limits (off Parker Rd. and I-225) about 12 miles from downtown, the park encompasses 4,200 acres in all.

Watersports include swimming, water-skiing, boating, and fishing. There’s a nature trail, dog-training area, model-airplane field with paved runways, jet-ski rental facility, rifle range, pistol range, and trapshooting area. Twelve miles of paved bicycle paths and 12 miles of bridle trails circle the reservoir (horse rentals are available). Rangers offer guided walks by appointment, as well as evening campfire programs in an amphitheater. In winter, there’s skating, ice fishing, and ice boating.

Each of the park’s 102 campsites has access to showers, laundry, and a dump station. Most sites have full hookups with water and electric. Many lakeshore day-use sites have picnic tables and grills.

Admission is $7 to $8 per vehicle; campsites are $16 to $24 daily. Campgrounds are open year-round. The entrance is at 4201 S. Parker Rd. in Aurora. Call 303/690-1166 for general information, or 800/678-2267 or 303/470-4144 for camping reservations.

Golden Gate State Park ★ About 30 miles west of Denver, this 12,000-acre park ranges in elevation from 7,400 to 10,400 feet and offers camping, picnicking, hiking, biking, fishing, hunting, and horseback-riding opportunities. A daily vehicle pass costs $6, and camping fees range from $16 to $20 in developed campgrounds, $10 for backcountry camping. There are around 160 developed campsites, with a limited number of electrical hookups. Reverend’s Ridge, the park’s largest campground, has coin-operated showers and laundry facilities.

To get to Golden Gate, take Colo. 93 north from Golden 1 mile to Golden Gate Canyon Road. Turn left and continue 13 miles to the park. For more information, call 303/582-3707. Call 800/678-2267 or 303/470-4144 for camping reservations.

Spectator Sports

Tickets to many sporting events can be obtained from Ticketmaster ( 303/830-TIXS [8497]; www.ticketmaster.com), which has several outlets in the Denver area.

Auto Racing For drag racing and other motor sports, head to Bandimere Speedway, 3051 S. Rooney Rd., Morrison ( 800/664-6001, 303/697-6001, or 303/697-4870 for a 24-hr. recording; www.bandimere.com), which has races scheduled April through October. There are motorcycles, pickup trucks, street cars, and sports cars, plus car shows, swap meets, and other special events.

Baseball The Colorado Rockies ( 800/388-7625 or 303/762-5437; www.coloradorockies.com) of Major League Baseball’s National League West have been contenders since a 2007 run to the World Series, when they fell to the Boston Red Sox. The team plays at the attractive Coors Field, located at 20th and Blake streets in historic Lower Downtown. The 50,000-seat stadium, with a redbrick exterior and on-site microbrewery, was designed in the style of baseball stadiums of old. Tickets are easy to come by, from either the box office or the scalpers on the street. Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) is another good place to find tickets.

Basketball The Denver Nuggets ( 303/405-1111 for ticket information; www.nuggets.com) of the National Basketball Association have gained fans thanks to young superstar Carmelo Anthony. The Nuggets play their home games at the handsome Pepsi Center (downtown at Speer Blvd. and Auraria Pkwy.). There are 41 home games a year between November and April, with playoffs continuing into June.

The University of Denver ( 303/871-2336 for ticket office; www.denverpioneers.com) plays a competitive college basketball schedule in the Sun Belt Conference from late November to March.

Football The Denver Broncos ( 720/258-3333 for tickets; www.denverbroncos.com) of the National Football League make their home at Invesco Field at Mile High. Home games are sold out months in advance, so call early; there are also a few tickets sold on game day. Your best bet may be to find someone hawking tickets outside the stadium entrance on game day. Pricing tickets above face value is technically illegal, but the law is rarely enforced. Craigslist (www.craigslist.org) and StubHub (www.stubhub.com) are good places to look online for tickets.

You might have better luck getting into a college game. The University of Colorado Buffaloes ( 303/492-8337; www.cubuffs.com), newly of the Pac-10 Conference, play in Boulder. Other top college football teams in the area are Colorado State University in Fort Collins and the Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs.

Hockey Denver’s National Hockey League team, the Colorado Avalanche ( 303/405-1111 for ticket information; www.coloradoavalanche.com), plays in front of sellout crowds at the Pepsi Center (Speer Blvd. and Auraria Pkwy.). The season runs from October to April.

For a cheaper ticket (and a fun atmosphere), the University of Denver men’s hockey team ( 303/871-2336 for ticket office, or 303/830-2497; www.denverpioneers.com) is consistently top tier and plays a competitive schedule between October and mid-March at the Ritchie Center.

Horse Racing Arapahoe Park, 26000 E. Quincy Ave., Aurora ( 303/690-2400; www.mihiracing.com), offers horse racing May to August, with simulcast wagering the rest of the year. Admission varies.

Lacrosse Denver has an indoor lacrosse team, the Colorado Mammoth ( 866/461-6556 for ticket information; www.coloradomammoth.com), which plays at the Pepsi Center from December to April, and an outdoor lacrosse team, the Denver Outlaws ( 303/688-5297; www.denveroutlaws.com), which plays at Invesco Field at Mile High May through August.

Rodeo The National Western Stock Show, Rodeo, and Horse Show ( 303/297-1166; www.nationalwestern.com) is held the second and third weeks of January. While a move to the plains near Denver International Airport is on the drawing board, the rodeo takes place at the Denver Coliseum, and other activities are at the National Western Complex and the Event Center. With more than $500,000 available in prize money and 600,000 people in attendance, this is one of the world’s richest and largest rodeos.

Soccer The Colorado Rapids ( 303/405-1100; www.coloradorapids.com), of Major League Soccer, play home games at Dick’s Sporting Goods Park, a new, soccer-only stadium at Quebec Street and 60th Avenue in Commerce City.

Shopping

If you’re in Denver on foot, you’ll find that most visitors do their shopping along the 16th Street Mall (the mile-long pedestrian walkway btw. Market St. and Tremont Place) and adjacent areas, including Larimer Square, the Shops at Tabor Center, Writer Square, and the newest retail development downtown, Denver Pavilions.

Outside the downtown area there are more options, primarily the huge Cherry Creek Shopping Center—a shopper’s dream—south of downtown. There are also numerous funky urban retail areas within the city limits, as well as suburban shopping malls.

Business hours vary from store to store and from mall to mall. Generally, stores are open 6 days a week, with many open on Sunday, too; department stores usually stay open until 9pm at least 1 evening a week. Discount stores and supermarkets are often open later than other stores, and some supermarkets are open 24 hours a day.

Shopping A to Z

Antiques

Denver’s main antiques area is Antique Row (www.antique-row.com) along South Broadway, between Mississippi and Iowa streets, with hundreds of dealers selling all sorts of fine antiques, collectibles, and junk. Wandering through the wide variety of stores, where each dealer has his or her own unique bent, is great fun. Just remember that prices are often negotiable; unless you’re quite knowledgeable about antiques, it wouldn’t hurt to do some comparison shopping before making a major purchase.

Art & Fine Crafts

The preeminent arts destination in Denver is the ArtDistrict on Santa Fe. In recent years, Santa Fe Drive has emerged as home to about 40 galleries and studios between 5th and 11th avenues. Most of the galleries are contemporary or Latin American and there is a popular First Friday Art Walk here from 6 to 9pm the first Friday of every month. For additional information, visit www.artdistrictonsantafe.com.

Also, the renaissance of Denver’s lower downtown (LoDo) has resulted in the creation of the Lower Downtown Arts District, where you can explore a number of galleries. The district runs from Larimer to Wynkoop streets between 14th and 20th streets. Call 303/628-5428 or browse www.lodo.org for additional information.

A mile to the southeast, the Golden Triangle neighborhood, bordered by Lincoln Street, Speer Boulevard, and Colfax Avenue, has more than 25 galleries and a number of museums. The Golden Triangle Museum District ( 303/534-0771; www.gtmd.org) puts together an open gallery event the first Friday night of every month, complete with a free shuttle.

The most recent neighborhood to blossom with studios is River North, aka RiNo in the formerly industrial nether-regions north of downtown; the neighborhood has an open gallery event on the first Friday of the month. For more information, visit the River North Art District’s website at www.rivernorthart.com.

Camera Obscura This highly respected gallery exhibits vintage and contemporary photographs, including works by internationally renowned photographers. Closed Monday. 1309 Bannock St. 303/623-4059. www.cameraobscuragallery.com.

Native American Trading Company Older weavings, pottery, baskets, jewelry, and other American Indian works from the Rocky Mountain region are the focus at this fine gallery. It’s located in a 1906 Mission Revival building across the street from the Denver Art Museum. Closed Monday. 213 W. 13th Ave. 303/534-0771. www.nativeamericantradingco.com.

Pirate Denver’s oldest arts co-op, Pirate has showcased the work of cutting-edge contemporary artists of all kinds for more than 20 years. It’s in a funky north Denver neighborhood with several eateries and a theater. 3655 Navajo St. 303/458-6058. www.pirateartonline.org.

Pismo Contemporary Art Glass Nationally renowned glass artists, as well as emerging stars, are represented in this gallery, located in Cherry Creek North. 2770 E. 2nd Ave. 303/333-2879. www.pismoglass.com.

Van Straaten Gallery Established regional artists are represented at the former Sandy Carson Gallery in the arts district on Santa Fe Drive, which is known for showing contemporary works in traditional mediums. Closed Sunday and Monday. 760 Santa Fe Dr. 303/573-8585. www.vanstraatengallery.com.

Books

Barnes & Noble This two-story location is in the Denver Pavilions retail area on the south side of downtown Denver. There’s a particularly good travel section, where you’ll find local and regional maps. 500 16th St. (in the Denver Pavilions). 303/825-9166.

Mile High Comics Megastore One of five Mile High Comics locations in the Denver area, this is the largest comic-book store in the nation. Its 11,000 square feet are packed with comics of all descriptions, plus games, toys, posters, and other books. 9201 N. Washington St., Thornton (10 miles north of downtown Denver). 303/457-2612. www.milehighcomics.com.

Tattered Cover ★★ One of the country’s largest bookstores, the locally beloved Tattered Cover moved to new digs on East Colfax Avenue in 2006 after more than 30 years in Cherry Creek. Taking over the old Lowenstein Theater, the store remains a bibliophile’s paradise, with comprehensive selections on every subject and a design that incorporates elements of the old theater. Also in development: Twist & Shout, Denver’s top independent record store; a restaurant, Encore , and a coffee shop. 2526 E. Colfax Ave. (opposite East High School). 303/322-7727. www.tatteredcover.com. There are also locations at Denver’s LoDo at 16th and Wynkoop sts. ( 303/436-1070) and in the Town Center development in Highlands Ranch ( 303/470-7050).

Fashion

Eddie Bauer This is the place to come for good deals on the famous Eddie Bauer line of upscale outdoor clothing. This extralarge store features a wide variety of men’s and women’s fashions alongside outdoor-oriented gadgetry. 3000 E. Cherry Creek Ave. (in the Cherry Creek Mall). 303/377-2100.

Lawrence Covell This renowned upscale shop, established in 1967 by Lawrence and Cathy Covell, offers the finest men’s and women’s fashions, including designer clothing by Kiton, John Lobb, Etro, and Paul Smith. 225 Steele St. (in Cherry Creek N.). 303/320-1023. www.lawrencecovell.com.

Rockmount Ranch Wear ★★ Founded in 1946 by Jack A. Weil—who served as CEO until he passed away at age 107 in 2008—Rockmount is one of the last real Western landmarks in town. The three-generation family business—which was the first company to put a snap on a shirt!—recently turned its landmark warehouse into a retail store, and it’s even got a small museum of Western wear and memorabilia. The place sells hats, shirts, scarves, and everything else anyone might need to dud up like a cowboy or cowgirl. Rock bands and movie stars love the brand, and even stop by the store on a regular basis. 1626 Wazee St. 303/629-7777. www.rockmount.com.

Food & Drink

King Soopers, Safeway, and Albertson’s are the main grocery-store chains.

Applejack Wine & Spirits This huge store, which covers some 40,000 square feet and is one of America’s largest beer, wine, and liquor supermarkets, offers some of the best prices in the area. It also delivers. The store has a wide choice of single-malt scotches; an extensive wine section, which includes a number of Colorado wines; and a good selection of cigars. 3320 Youngfield St. (in the Applewood Shopping Center), Wheat Ridge (I-70, exit 264). 303/233-3331.

Corks This store offers oenophiles a nice selection of reasonably priced bottles: 250 handpicked varieties priced at $15 or less. 1620 Platte St. 303/477-5799 or 303/480-9463.

The Market at Larimer Square A combination deli/gourmet market/coffee shop right downtown, the Market is something of a community hub for all of downtown Denver. Its location on Larimer Square is ideal for people-watching and convenience. 1445 Larimer Sq. 303/534-5140.

Whole Foods This enormous store helps perpetuate Coloradans’ healthy lifestyles. No food sold here contains artificial flavoring or preservatives, nor was any grown using pesticides, chemicals, or other additives. There’s sushi, a salad bar, and many to-go lunch and dinner offerings as well. This Cherry Creek–area store, part of the national chain, is one of several locations scattered throughout the metropolitan area. 2375 E. 1st Ave. (at University Blvd.). 720/941-4100.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Denver Art Museum Shop This museum shop carries a wide selection of prints, cards, books, and gifts, as well as jewelry and souvenirs specific to current temporary exhibitions. 100 W. 14th Ave. Pkwy. 720/865-5000.

Where the Buffalo Roam Here you’ll find the gamut of traditional Denver and Colorado souvenirs, from T-shirts to buttons to hats to mugs. 535 16th St. 303/260-7347.

Jewelry

Jeweler’s Center at the University Building Here you’ll find about a dozen retail and wholesale outlets in what is billed as Denver’s largest concentration of jewelers. 910 16th St. 303/534-6270.

John Atencio A highly regarded Colorado artist, John Atencio has received several awards for his unique jewelry designs. Located on historic Larimer Square, his store offers 14- and 18-karat gold jewelry accented with high-quality stones, plus special collections such as “Elements,” which features unusual combinations of gold, sterling silver, and stones. 1440 Larimer St. (on Larimer Sq.). 303/534-4277. www.johnatencio.com.

Malls & Shopping Centers

Cherry Creek Shopping Center Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom anchor this deluxe million-square-foot mall, with more than 160 shops, restaurants, and services, including an eight-screen movie theater. Across the street is Cherry Creek North, an upscale retail neighborhood. The mall is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm, and Sunday from 11am to 6pm. 3000 E. 1st Ave. (btw. University Blvd. and Steele St.). 303/388-3900. www.shopcherrycreek.com.

Colorado Mills This relatively new mall, on the western fringe of metro Denver, has over 200 stores and outlet centers, as well as theaters, restaurants, and a skate park. Stores include Super Target, Eddie Bauer Outlet, LEGO Store, and Sports Authority. I-70 and W. Colfax Ave., Lakewood. 303/384-3000. www.coloradomills.com.

Denver Pavilions Located on the southern end of the 16th Street Mall, this three-level complex jammed with entertainment and dining options features Denver’s Hard Rock Cafe, a movie-plex, Niketown, a bowling alley, and Barnes & Noble megastores (see “Books,” above). Store hours are Monday to Saturday from 10am to 9pm and Sunday from 11am to 6pm; the restaurants and movie theaters are open later. 500 16th St. (btw. Welton and Tremont sts.). 303/260-6000. www.denverpavilions.com.

Larimer Square This restored quarter of old Denver (see “More Attractions,” earlier in this chapter) includes numerous art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and nightclubs. Most shops are open Monday through Thursday from 10am to 7pm, Friday and Saturday from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm. Restaurant and nightclub hours vary, and hours are slightly shorter during the winter. 1400 block of Larimer St. 303/534-2367.

Mile High Marketplace Just 10 minutes northeast of downtown Denver, this huge market attracts more than 1.5 million shoppers a year to 2,000 vendors on more than 80 paved acres. Besides closeouts, antiques vendors, garage sales, and seasonal merchandise, it has more than a dozen places to eat and snack, plus family rides. It’s open year-round on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 7am to 5pm. Admission is $2 Friday, $3 Saturday and Sunday, and always free for children 11 and under. 7007 E. 88th Ave. (at I-76), Henderson. 303/289-4656. www.milehighmarketplace.com.

The Outlets at Castle Rock This outlet mall between Denver and Colorado Springs, about 30 minutes south of Denver, has about 100 stores, including Levi’s/Dockers, Van Heusen, Eddie Bauer, Bass, Nike, Big Dog, Gap, Borders, and Coleman, plus a food court. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm and Sunday from 11am to 6pm. I-25, exit 184. 303/688-4495. www.outletsatcastlerock.com.

Park Meadows Retail Resort Located at the C-470/I-25 interchange south of Denver, this is the largest shopping center in Colorado, and now the heart of a mind-boggling retail area. Very posh and upscale—the interior is reminiscent of a luxurious mountain lodge—Park Meadows features Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Macy’s, and 160 specialty shops and restaurants. Stores are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm, Sunday from 11am to 6pm. 8401 Park Meadows Center Dr. (south of C-470 on Yosemite St.), Littleton. 303/792-5384. www.parkmeadowsmall.com.

Sporting Goods

Those in need of a bike should talk to the experts at Campus Cycles, 2102 S. Washington St. ( 303/698-2811), which carries the Gary Fisher, Trek, and Electra brands. Sports fans looking for that Rockies cap or Broncos shirt will have no trouble finding it at Bill’s Sport Collectibles, 2335 S. Broadway ( 303/733-4878). There are also all sorts of collectibles here, from action figures to signed jerseys.

For information on where to rent sporting-goods equipment, see the “Outdoor Activities” section, earlier in this chapter.

Outdoor Divas This outdoor store targets women, offering gear and clothing for skiing, hiking, running, climbing, and other active pursuits. There is a second location in Boulder at 1133 Pearl St. ( 303/449-3482). 2717 E. 3rd Ave. 303/320-3482. www.outdoordivas.com.

REI ★★ Although the Seattle-based co-op has several stores in the metro area, its flagship store, a beautifully restored redbrick just west of downtown, is one of the country’s best and biggest outdoor-oriented retailers. (It is one of only three flagship stores; the others are in Seattle and the Minneapolis area.) This is the place to go before heading for an excursion in the Rockies. The gargantuan store features a 45-foot climbing wall, an outdoor bike-testing area, a kayaking area on adjacent Cherry Creek, and a “cold room” to try out outerwear and sleeping bags. 1416 Platte St. 303/756-3100.

Sports Authority Sportscastle Active travelers will be pleased to discover that Denver has sporting-goods stores that match the scale of the outdoor opportunities in Colorado—namely, this five-story monster. With everything from ski rentals to golf clubs to tents, the selection is comprehensive. Extras include a driving cage for golfers, ball courts on the roof, and the annual Sniagrab (that’s bargains spelled backward), featuring rock-bottom prices on ski equipment every Labor Day weekend. 1000 Broadway. 303/863-2260.

Toys & Hobbies

Caboose Hobbies Model-train buffs should plan to spend at least half a day here. Billed as the world’s largest train store, it stocks electric trains, accessories, books, and so much train-related stuff (over 100,000 items on nearly 20,000 sq. ft. of floor space) that it’s hard to know where to start. The knowledgeable employees seem just as happy to talk about trains as to sell them. Naturally, model trains of every scale wind through the store, as well as test tracks so that you can check out a locomotive before purchasing it. There are also mugs, patches, and decals from just about every railroad line that ever existed in North America. 500 S. Broadway. 303/777-6766. www.caboosehobbies.com.

Wizard’s Chest This store’s magical design—a castle with drawbridge and moat—and legendary wizard out front are worth the trip alone, but be sure to go inside. The Wizard’s Chest is paradise for kids of all ages, specializing in games, toys, and puzzles. The costume department is fully stocked with attire, wigs, masks, and professional makeup. 230 Fillmore St. in Cherry Creek N. 303/321-4304. www.wizardschest.com.

Denver After Dark

The anchor of Denver’s performing arts scene, an important part of this increasingly sophisticated city, is the 4-square-block Denver Performing Arts Complex, located downtown just a few blocks from major hotels. The complex houses nine theaters, a concert hall, and what may be the nation’s first symphony hall in the round. It is home to the Colorado Symphony, Colorado Ballet, Opera Colorado, and Denver Center for the Performing Arts (an umbrella organization for resident and touring theater companies). In all, Denver has some 30 theaters, more than 100 cinemas, and dozens of concert halls, nightclubs, discos, and bars. Clubs offer country-and-western music, jazz, rock, and comedy.

Current entertainment listings appear in special Friday-morning sections of the Denver Post. Westword, a weekly newspaper distributed free throughout the city every Wednesday evening, has perhaps the best listings: It focuses on the arts, entertainment, and local politics. Also pick up the Denver/Boulder edition of The Onion, which also has a nice arts and entertainment section after all the funny and phony news stories.

You can get tickets for nearly all major entertainment and sporting events from Ticketmaster ( 303/830-TIXS [8497]), which has several outlets in the Denver area.

The Club & Music Scene

Rock, Jazz & Blues

Bluebird Theater This historic theater, built in 1913 to show silent movies, has been restored and now offers a diverse selection of rock, alternative, and other live music, as well as films. The performers generally target teens and 20-somethings. Tickets usually run $7 to $20. 3317 E. Colfax Ave. (at Adams St.). 303/377-1666. www.bluebirdtheater.net.

The Church Located just a few blocks southeast of downtown, this cavernous and historic (1865) former church features three dance floors and several bars, including wine and sushi bars. One of Denver’s most popular dance clubs, it attracts celebrity DJs and a throng of beautiful people on a regular basis. The semireligious decor and diverse crowd, in conjunction with the loud music, make for near sensory overload. 1160 Lincoln St. 303/832-8628. www.the-coclubs.com.

El Chapultepec Denver’s oldest jazz club, the “Pec” offers live jazz nightly in a noisy, friendly atmosphere. You’ll often find standing room only, not to mention a hearty helping of local color—young and old, poor and rich, in equal measure. A small burrito kitchen and poolroom adjoin the club. There is never a cover. 1962 Market St. 303/295-9126.

Gothic Theatre One of metro Denver’s best-looking (and best-sounding) midsize venues, the Gothic is light-years beyond the heavy-metal dive it was in the 1980s. Both local and national acts play the stage here. Tickets usually cost $7 to $30. 3263 S. Broadway, Englewood. 303/788-0984. www.gothictheatre.com.

hi-dive A standout for indie rock and experimental music, the hi-dive is popular with young and in-the-know hipsters and features an adjoining no-cover bar, Sputnik, with a kitchen in the back. Tickets run $6 to $10. 7 S. Broadway. 303/570-4500. www.hi-dive.com.

Larimer Lounge This bar on old Larimer Street has been serving drinks since 1892 and serving loud punk rock and alternative music since 2003. The place is out of the hustle and bustle of LoDo, in an old neighborhood east of downtown, and has seen such national acts as the Arcade Fire and Mudhoney take the stage. The average patron is young, tattooed, and a bit rough around the edges. Tickets are usually under $20. 2721 Larimer St. 303/291-1007. www.larimerlounge.com.

Mercury Cafe It’s hard to classify the Mercury as specializing in any genre of music, but there’s always something exciting happening, even on poetry night. It attracts a casual, eclectic clientele. Offerings usually range from tango lessons to avant-garde jazz to classical violin to tarot readings to progressive rock. An organically oriented restaurant is also here. 2199 California St. (at 22nd St.). 303/294-9281 or 303/294-9258 for dining reservations. www.mercurycafe.com.

3 Kings Tavern A relatively new venue in the Baker neighborhood, 3 Kings offers a hip vibe and interesting decor (Elvis paraphernalia, pop culture bric-a-brac, comic-book wallpapering, and a big “Sanatorium” sign above the bar) to go with the touring and local rockabilly, punk, metal, and country acts that grace the stage. Tickets usually cost $10 and less. 60 S. Broadway. 303/777-7352. www.3kingstavern.com.

Country Music

Grizzly Rose Known to locals as “the Griz” or “the Rose,” its 5,000-square-foot dance floor beneath a 1-acre roof has drawn such national acts as Garth Brooks, Willie Nelson, LeAnn Rimes, and Johnny Paycheck. There’s live music Tuesday through Saturday; Sunday is family night. Dance lessons are available Wednesday night at 7pm. 5450 N. Valley Hwy., at I-25, exit 215. 303/295-1330.

Stampede This colossal nightclub offers free country-western dance lessons on Friday and Saturday, a huge solid-oak dance floor, pool tables, a restaurant, and seven bars. Its Wednesday ladies’ nights are notoriously rowdy. Closed Sunday through Tuesday. 2430 S. Havana St. (at Parker Rd.), Aurora. 303/696-7686. www.stampedeclub.net.

Bottoms Up!

More beer is brewed per capita in metropolitan Denver than in any other city in the United States.

The Bar Scene

The first permanent structure on the site of modern Denver was supposedly a saloon, and the city has built on that tradition ever since. Today, there are sports bars, dance bars, lots of brewpubs, outdoor cafe bars, English pubs, Old West saloons, bars with views of the city, Art Deco bars, gay bars, and a few bars we don’t want to discuss here.

Appropriately, the newest Denver “in” spot for barhopping is also the oldest part of the city—LoDo—which has been renovated and upgraded, and now attracts all the young partyers and upwardly mobile professionals. Its trendy nightspots are often noisy and crowded, but if you’re looking for action, this is where you’ll find it.

Other popular “strips” are along Broadway (centered on 10th and Ellsworth aves., respectively), and along East Colfax Avenue from about Ogden to Monroe streets. For those who prefer caffeine to alcohol, a number of good coffee bars abound throughout downtown Denver, as well as in the Capitol Hill and Uptown neighborhoods.

The following are among the popular bars and pubs, but there are plenty more, so be sure to check out the publications mentioned at the beginning of this section.

Bull & Bush Pub & Brewery A neighborhood hangout in Cherry Creek, this re-creation of a famous London pub always has about 10 of its own award-winning beers on tap. On Sunday evening, there’s traditional jazz by regional groups. A full brew-house menu is available. 4700 Cherry Creek Dr. S., Glendale. 303/759-0333. www.bullandbush.com.

brewery Tours

Whether or not you drink beer, it can be fun to look behind the scenes and see how beer is made. Denver’s first modern microbrewery, the Wynkoop Brewing Co., 1634 18th St., at Wynkoop Street ( 303/297-2700; www.wynkoop.com), offers tours every Saturday between 1 and 5pm. Housed in the renovated 1898 J. S. Brown Mercantile Building across from Union Station, the Wynkoop is also a popular restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” in chapter 5). At least 10 beers are always on tap, including a few exotic recipes—the spicy chile beer is my favorite. If you can’t decide which one to try, the “taster set” provides a nice sampling: nine 4-ounce glasses of different brews. For non–beer drinkers, the Wynkoop offers some of the best root beer in town. On the second floor is a top-notch pool hall with billiards, snooker, and darts.

Also downtown, Great Divide Brewing Co., 2201 Arapahoe St. ( 303/296-9460, ext. 26; www.greatdivide.com), has a terrific taproom and free samples. Tours are offered Monday through Friday at 3 and 4pm and on the hour on Saturdays from 2 to 7pm. Great Divide is known for being a beer-lover’s brewery, crafting such favorites as the rice-based Samurai and the aptly named Yeti Imperial Stout.

Since it opened in 1991, Rock Bottom Brewery, 1001 16th St. ( 303/534-7616; www.rockbottom.com), has been one of the leading brewpubs in the area. Tours, which are given upon request, offer great views of the brewing process, plus a sampling of the product.

A mile south of downtown, Breckenridge Brewery, 471 Kalamath St. ( 303/573-0341; www.breckenridgebrewery.com), also lets you see the brewing process. Free brewery tours are given by appointment. In addition to its award-winning ales, the brewery serves traditional pub fare.

East of downtown in the Uptown neighborhood, the same folks behind Mountain Sun in Boulder opened Vine Street Pub & Brewery in 2008; it’s at 1700 Vine St. ( 303/388-2337) and has a fun and funky neighborhood vibe with a healthful bent to its menu. In Cherry Creek, Bull & Bush Pub & Brewery, 4700 Cherry Creek Dr. S. ( 303/759-0333; www.bullandbush.com), produces about 10 handcrafted ales and will give tours of its facilities upon request.

For a look at the other side of the coin, take a trip to nearby Golden for a look at Coors, one of the world’s largest breweries (see “A Side Trip to Colorado’s Gold Circle Towns,” below).

Charlie Brown’s Just south of downtown, Charlie Brown’s is a piano bar, some version of which has been in existence since 1927. The atmosphere is casual, with a baby grand piano and a diverse crowd. The grill serves three meals a day, inside and outside on a great patio. 980 Grant St. (at 10th Ave.). 303/860-1655.

Churchill Bar You’ll find an excellent selection of fine cigars, single-malt Scotches, and after-dinner drinks at this refined lounge, which caters to local politicos and well-to-do professional types. In the Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th St. 303/297-3111.

Cruise Room Bar Modeled after a 1930s-era bar aboard the Queen Mary, the Cruise Room opened in 1933 on the day Prohibition ended. Restored to its Art Deco best, the very red room features decorative panels depicting toasts around the world and mixes one of the best martinis in town. In the Oxford Hotel, 1600 17th St. (at Wazee St.). 303/825-1107.

Falling Rock Tap House Comfy, woody, and just down the street from Coors Field, this LoDo pub has 69 beers on tap—the best selection of good beer in Denver. You’ll also find darts and pool, happy hours, and occasional live music. 1919 Blake St. 303/293-8338. www.fallingrocktaphouse.com.

JR’s A cavernous gay bar with a little bit of country, JR’s is centered on a horseshoe-shaped bar and known for its drink specials and busy dance floor. 777 E. 17th Ave. 303/831-0459. www.myjrs.com.

Meadowlark This dim, hip subterranean bar oozes style, featuring plenty of industrial chic, great margaritas and other mixed drinks, and an eclectic music calendar both live and prerecorded. 2721 Larimer St. 303/293-0251. www.meadowlarkbar.com.

My Brother’s Bar A Platte Valley fixture since the Beat Generation (this was one of Jack Kerouac’s favorite Denver hangouts), this is the locals’ choice for big, juicy burgers, wrapped in wax paper and served with an array of condiments and a side helping of friendly, unpretentious vibes. 2376 15th St. 303/455-9991.

Old Curtis Street Bar A classic family-owned bar, complete with vinyl booths and a Mexican menu, Old Curtis Street is my pick for a low-key evening downtown. There is an eclectic entertainment calendar featuring punk bands, DJs, and stand-up comedy nights. 2100 Curtis St. 303/292-2083. www.oldcurtis.com.

Rackhouse Pub Featuring walls and pillars made of whiskey barrels and a stage showcasing live rock and blues, the Rackhouse—the resident pub at Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey Distillery—serves almost exclusively Colorado beers—15 of 16 taps—and plenty of Colorado spirits, as well as burgers and other bar fare. Distillery tours lasting about a half-hour (and ending with a whiskey sample) are offered on weekends and other times; visit www.stranahans.com to sign up or call 303/296-7440 for more information. 208 S. Kalamath St. (just northeast of I-25 and Alameda) 720/570-7824. www.rackhousepub.com.

Samba Room The atmosphere at the Samba Room—Cuban murals, booming Latin music, a fashionable young clientele—is right up there with Denver’s flashiest nightclubs. The menu of Latin-Caribbean fusion, albeit a bit pricey and uneven, adds to the theme. 1460 Larimer St. 720/956-1701. www.sambaroom.net.

Sing Sing A noisy, eclectic crowd dominates the scene at this LoDo hot spot, located beneath the Denver ChopHouse & Brewery (see “Where to Dine,” in chapter 5). You’ll often find low-priced beer specials, which encourage the hard-partying college types to sing along (loudly and badly) with the dueling pianos. A fun place, but hang on tight. Closed Sunday. 1735 19th St. 303/291-0880. www.singsing.com.

Wynkoop Brewing Company Founded by Denver Mayor John Hickenlooper (at press time he was running for governor), Denver’s first modern brewpub is still the city’s best. Among its most interesting offerings are India pale ale, chile beer, and Scotch ale, but you really can’t go wrong with any of the selections. Added attractions: a large upstairs pool hall, which generally draws a more party-hearty crowd than the restaurant and bar, and an improv and comedy theater in the basement. 1634 18th St. (at Wynkoop St.). 303/297-2700. www.wynkoop.com.

The Performing Arts

Classical Music & Opera

Colorado Symphony Orchestra This international-caliber orchestra performs more than 100 classical, pops, and family concerts each year at locations throughout the metropolitan area, mostly at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts. Most tickets run $20 to $80. 1000 14th St., #15. 303/623-7876. www.coloradosymphony.org.

Opera Colorado Every season, the company stages three operas (four performances each), with English supertitles, at the stunning Ellie Caulkins Opera House at the Denver Performing Arts Complex. Internationally renowned singers and local favorites sing the lead roles. The typical schedule is three evening performances and one matinee each week from February to May. Tickets usually cost $30 to $125. 695 S. Colorado Blvd., #20. 303/357-2787 for tickets, or 303/778-1500. www.operacolorado.org.

Theater & Comedy

Buntport Theater Injecting a fresh dose of creativity and zaniness into the Denver theater scene, the Buntport plays host to a number of original productions and adaptations (including “live sit-coms”) as well as improv and open mics at its black-box-style theater south of downtown. 717 Lipan St. 720/946-1388. www.buntport.com.

Comedy Works Considered one of the region’s top comedy clubs for more than 20 years, this is your best bet for seeing America’s hot comics at work—Tracy Morgan and Last Comic Standing winner (and Denver local) Josh Blue recently took the stage. Admission is $7 to $10 on weekdays, more on weekends and for marquee performers. A second Comedy Works ( 720/274-6800) opened at Belleview and I-25 in the Denver Tech Center. 1226 15th St. 303/595-3637. www.comedyworks.com.

Denver Center for the Performing Arts An umbrella organization for resident and touring theater, youth outreach, and conservatory training, the DCPA includes the Denver Center Theatre Company, the largest professional resident theater company in the Rockies. With 40 artists on its payroll, the troupe performs about 10 plays in repertory from October to June, including classical and contemporary dramas, musicals, and premieres of new plays. Tickets typically cost $20 to $60. Denver Center Attractions brings in more than 10 touring Broadway productions annually. Tickets run $25 to $80. For both companies, many shows sell out well in advance. 14th and Curtis sts. 800/641-1222 or 303/893-4100. www.denvercenter.org.

El Centro Su Teatro A Hispanic theater and cultural center, El Centro presents bilingual productions on a regular basis. The company is relocating to the old Denver Civic Theatre at 721 Santa Fe Drive as soon as fundraising allows. Tickets cost $10 to $20. 4725 High St. 303/296-0219. www.suteatro.org.

Lannie’s Clocktower Cabaret In the basement of the landmark D&F Tower on the 16th Street Mall, Lannie’s is a funky bordello-inspired theater that sees a wide variety of retro-tinged entertainers take its stage, including sideshow acts, burlesque revivalists, and hostess/singer Lannie Garrett, best known for her portrayal of “Patsy DeCline.” In the D&F Tower, 1601 Arapahoe St. 303/293-0075. www.lannies.com.

Dance

Cleo Parker Robinson Dance A highly acclaimed multicultural modern-dance ensemble and school, the Cleo Parker Robinson group performs a varied selection of programs each year, both on tour around the world and at several Denver locations. Tickets usually run $20 to $40. 119 Park Ave. W. 303/295-1759. www.cleoparkerdance.org.

Colorado Ballet The state’s premier professional resident ballet company performs at the Ellie Caulkins Opera House and other venues. The company presents five productions during its fall-through-spring season—a balance of classical and contemporary works that always includes The Nutcracker at Christmastime. Tickets range from $25 to $150. 1278 Lincoln St. 303/837-8888. www.coloradoballet.org.

Major Concert Halls & Auditoriums

Arvada Center for the Arts & Humanities This multidisciplinary arts center is in use almost every day of the year for performances by internationally known artists and its own theater companies, its historical museum and art gallery exhibitions, and its hands-on education programs for all ages. In addition, the children’s theater program performs in front of an annual audience of 60,000. A new, fully accessible playground features a 343-foot sea creature called Squiggles. 6901 Wadsworth Blvd., Arvada (2 1/2 miles north of I-70). 720/898-7200. www.arvadacenter.org.

Comfort Dental Amphitheatre Formerly Fiddler’s Green Amphitheatre, the alfresco summer concerts here feature national and international stars of rock, jazz, classical, and country music. The amphitheater has about 6,500 reserved seats and room for 10,000 more on its spacious lawn. Located in the southwestern section of the metropolitan area, just west of I-25 between Arapahoe and Orchard roads, it’s open from May to September. The surrounding streets are a gallery for the Museum of Outdoor Arts featuring numerous characters from Alice in Wonderland. 6350 Greenwood Plaza Blvd., Englewood. 303/220-7000.

Denver Performing Arts Complex Covering 4 square downtown blocks, from Speer Boulevard to 14th Street and Champa to Arapahoe streets, the Center for the Performing Arts (called the “Plex” by locals) is impressive even to those not attending a performance. Its numerous theaters seat from 157 to 2,800, and there’s also a restaurant. 14th and Curtis sts. 800/641-1222 or 303/893-4100. www.denvercenter.org.

Fillmore Auditorium The 3,600-seat Fillmore is the former Mammoth Gardens, which was renovated by proprietors of the legendary Fillmore in San Francisco. The slickly remodeled venue is now one of Denver’s best, loaded with bars and countless vintage rock photos. It attracts national rock acts from Ween to Bob Dylan. Tickets generally cost $20 to $100. 1510 Clarkson St. 303/837-0360. www.fillmoreauditorium.com.

Paramount Theatre A performing-arts center since 1929, this restored 2,000-seat downtown theater is a wonderful place to enjoy jazz, pop, and folk performances, as well as comedy, lectures, and theater. Recent bookings have included comedian David Cross and “Weird Al” Yankovic. 1621 Glenarm Place. 303/623-0106. www.paramountdenver.com.

Red Rocks Amphitheatre ★★★ Quite possibly the country’s best and most beautiful venue for top-name outdoor summer concerts, Red Rocks is in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, 15 miles southwest of the city. Four-hundred-foot-high red sandstone rocks flank the 9,000-seat amphitheater, a product of the Civilian Conservation Corps. At night, with the lights of Denver spread across the horizon, the atmosphere is magical. The Beatles performed here, as have Jimi Hendrix, Paul Simon, the Grateful Dead, U2, Bonnie Raitt, Lyle Lovett, Willie Nelson, and top symphony orchestras from around the world. The venue has a sparkling new visitor center at the amphitheater’s apex, which affords amazing views and displays detailing the varied performances that have taken place here since it opened in 1941. There’s also a restaurant, a network of hiking trails, and the trading post, carrying a good selection of American-Indian jewelry and pottery, plus a variety of other curios and souvenirs. I-70, exit 259 S., 16351 County Rd. 93, Morrison. 720/865-2494. www.redrocksonline.com.

A Side Trip to Colorado’s Gold Circle Towns

Golden

Golden, Idaho Springs, and Georgetown make up most of the fabled Gold Circle—those towns that boomed with the first strikes of the gold rush in 1859. Central City, once the richest of the four towns but now the least attractive, completes the circle. Central City is trying to relive its glory days with a return to gambling, largely supported by locals from Denver, and although the exteriors of its historic buildings remain appealing, the rows of electronic slot machines and other gambling devices inside are a turnoff. Visitors to the area might like to make a brief stop and then move on to Idaho Springs.

Golden ★★

Golden, 15 miles west of downtown Denver by way of U.S. 6 or Colo. 58 off I-70, is better known for the Coors Brewery (founded in 1873) and the Colorado School of Mines (established in 1874) than for its years as territorial capital. For tourist information, contact the Greater Golden Area Chamber of Commerce, 1010 Washington Ave., Golden, CO 80402 ( 303/279-3113; www.goldencochamber.org).

What to See & Do

Historic downtown Golden centers on the Territorial Capitol in the Loveland Building, 12th Street and Washington Avenue. Built in 1861, it housed the first state legislature from 1862 to 1867, when the capital was moved to Denver. Today it contains offices and a restaurant. The Armory, 13th and Arapahoe streets, is probably the largest cobblestone structure in the United States; 3,300 wagonloads of stone and quartz went into its construction. The Rock Flour Mill Warehouse, 8th and Cheyenne streets, dates from 1863; it was built with red granite from nearby Golden Gate Canyon and still has its original cedar beams and wooden floors.

In addition to the attractions listed below, see the section on Golden Gate State Park, in the Denver “Outdoor Activities” section, and RipBoard, in the “Boating” section, earlier in this chapter.

Astor House Museum This handsome native stone structure, believed to be the first stone hotel built west of the Mississippi River, was constructed in 1867 to house legislators when Golden was the territorial capital. Scheduled for demolition to make space for a parking lot, the Astor House was instead restored in the 1970s and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today the Western-style Victorian hotel offers glimpses into life in Golden during the town’s heyday in the late 19th century. Allow 30 to 60 minutes. While there, you can obtain a walking-tour guide for the 12th Street Historic District or visit the Victorian Gift Shop, whose proceeds benefit the museum.

822 12th St. 303/278-3557. www.goldenhistorymuseums.org. Admission $4 adults, $3 seniors, $2 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. There is also a combo ticket that includes admission to the Golden History Center for $6 adults, $5 seniors, and $3 children 6–16. Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm; June–Aug also Sun 11am–3pm.

Boettcher Mansion This historic Jefferson County estate was built by Charles Boettcher in 1917 as a summer home and hunting lodge. It contains displays of furnishings and other items from the American Arts and Crafts period of the late 1800s and early 1900s. Other exhibits explore the history of Golden and the Boettcher family. Allow 1 hour.

900 Colorow Rd. (on Lookout Mountain). 720/497-7630. http://jeffco.us/boettcher/index.htm. Free admission, donations accepted. Mon–Fri 8am–4pm (but call ahead because the mansion often closes for special events), or by appointment.

Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum Named for pioneering mountaineer and cartographer Bradford Washburn, this museum, which opened in 2008, takes on the daunting task of telling the story of conquering the world’s toughest mountains in an indoor facility and does a remarkable job of keeping the epic scale. Exhibits cover mountain and rock-climbing history, technique, and technology, and showcase the contributions of the legends of the sport. The scale model of Mount Everest is a highlight. Allow 1 hour.

710 10th St. 303/996-2755. www.bwamm.org. Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors, $5 children. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–4pm.

Buffalo Bill Museum & Grave ★ William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the famous Western scout, is buried atop Lookout Mountain, south of Golden. The museum contains memorabilia from the life and legend of Buffalo Bill, who rode for the Pony Express, organized buffalo hunts for foreign royalty, and toured the world with his Wild West Show. (Some folks claim that friends stole Cody’s body after his sister sold it to the City of Denver and the Denver Post, high-tailed it north, and buried it in Wyoming, but I’ve been assured that this was the real McCoy.) There are also displays of American Indian artifacts, guns, and Western art; an observation deck provides a great view of Denver. The museum is in 66-acre Lookout Mountain Park, a Denver municipal park popular for picnicking. Allow 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

987 1/2 Lookout Mountain Rd. 303/526-0747. www.buffalobill.org. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors, $1 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. May–Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–Apr Tues–Sun 9am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. I-70, exit 256.

Clear Creek History Park This 3-acre creek-side park illustrates the history of the area’s ranching, with two log cabins, several animal barns, a blacksmith’s shop, and a one-room schoolhouse from the 1870s. The buildings, which were moved to this site to save them from development in their original site in nearby Golden Gate Canyon, are open during special events. Allow about an hour.

11th and Arapahoe sts. in downtown Golden. 303/278-3557. www.goldenhistorymuseums.org. Free admission. Daily sunrise–sunset.

Colorado Railroad Museum ★ Housed in a replica of an 1880 railroad depot, this museum 2 miles east of Golden is a must-see for railroad buffs. On display are more than 100 narrow- and standard-gauge locomotives, cabooses, and cars, plus other historic equipment, artifacts, photos, documents, and model trains. The exhibits cover 12 acres, including the two-story depot and a working roundhouse. You can climb into many of the old locomotives and wander through the parlor cars. The excellent gift-and-souvenir shop sells hundreds of railroad-related items, from coffee mugs to posters to T-shirts. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

17155 W. 44th Ave. 800/365-6263 or 303/279-4591. www.coloradorailroadmuseum.org. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors 60 and over, $5 children 3–16, free for children 2 and under, $18 families. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25. Follow signs from I-70, exit 265, westbound; exit 266, eastbound.

Colorado School of Mines Geology Museum ★ Exhibits here help explain the history of mining in Colorado with a replica of a uranium mine and other displays. On exhibit are some 50,000 minerals, gems, fossils, and artifacts from around the world, plus displays on geology, earth history, and paleontology. The Colorado School of Mines, founded in 1874, has an enrollment of about 3,000. Allow 1 hour.

13th and Maple sts. 303/273-3815 or 303/273-3823. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm. Closed Colorado School of Mines holidays.

Coors Brewing Company One of the world’s largest breweries, this facility produces 1.5 million gallons of beer each day. Coors conducts free public tours, followed by free samples of the various beers produced. The entire presentation lasts about 1 1/2 hours. Tours leave a central parking lot at 13th and Ford streets, where visitors board a bus for a short drive through historic Golden before arriving at the brewery. There, a 30-minute prerecorded walking tour covers the history of the Coors family and company, the barley malting process, the 13,640-gallon gleaming copper kettles, and the entire production process all the way to packaging. Children are welcome, and arrangements can be made for visitors with disabilities. There’s also a gift shop and an interactive timeline in the reception area. Allow about 2 hours—unless you take the “short tour” which actually skips the tour altogether and heads straight to the hospitality lounge for your freebies.

13th and Ford sts. 866/812-2337 or 303/277-2337. www.coors.com. Free admission. Tours Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm; rest of the year Thurs–Sat and Mon 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm. Closed holidays. Visitors 17 and under must be accompanied by an adult.

Foothills Art Center Housed in an 1872 Gothic-style Presbyterian church (which is on the National Register of Historic Places), this exhibition center evolved from the annual Golden Sidewalk Art Show and features changing national and regional exhibits. A gift shop sells crafts by local artisans. Allow 30 minutes.

809 15th St. 303/279-3922. www.foothillsartcenter.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors, free for students and children. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm.

Golden History Center This museum exhibits an impressive collection of furniture, household articles, photographs, and other items, including a re-created 19th-century parlor and boudoir. Especially impressive is its collection of 200 American-Indian dolls, representing 39 different groups from all around North America. There is also a genealogical and historical research library and a gift shop. Allow 1 hour.

923 10th St. 303/278-7151. www.goldenhistorymuseums.com. Admission $4 adults, $3 seniors, $2 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. There is also a combo ticket that includes admission to the Astor House Museum for $6 adults, $5 seniors, and $3 children 6–16. Tues–Sat 10am–4:30pm; also open June–Aug Sun 11am–3pm.

Heritage Square A family-oriented shopping, dining, and entertainment village with a Wild West theme, Heritage Square features some Victorian specialty shops, a Ferris wheel, a stocked fishing pond, and a dinner theater. Warm-weather activities include go-carts, bumper boats, and a 2,350-foot alpine slide with bobsled-style carts. Heritage Square Music Hall offers shows for adults and children, and there’s a nostalgic ice-cream parlor. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

18301 Colfax Ave. (U.S. 40). 303/279-2789. www.heritagesquare.info. Free admission; separate charges for individual activities. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Thurs 10am–8pm, Fri–Sat 10am–8:30pm, Sun noon–8pm; with shorter hours rest of year. I-70, exit 259.

Lookout Mountain Nature Center A 1.5-mile self-guided nature trail winds through this 110-acre preserve among ponderosa pines and pretty mountain meadows. A free trail guide is available at the Nature Center when it’s open, and a map is on display at a kiosk for those walking the trail at other times. The nonprofit Nature Center has displays on the pine beetle, pollination, and Colorado wildlife, plus an interactive exhibit on the ponderosa pine forest. The building is also worth a look—it’s constructed of used and recycled materials such as ground-up plastic soda containers and the pulp of aspen trees. The center schedules free naturalist-guided environmental education activities year-round. Topics vary, but could include the flowers, butterflies, or wildlife of the area, or a look at the night sky. Advance registration is required for most programs, and age restrictions may apply. Call for details. Allow at least 1 hour.

910 Colorow Rd. (on Lookout Mountain). 720/497-7600. Free admission. Trail daily 8am–dusk; Nature Center Tues–Sun 10am–4pm (summer Sat–Sun 9am–5pm).

Mother Cabrini Shrine A 22-foot statue of Jesus stands at the top of a 373-step stairway adorned by carvings representing the Stations of the Cross and mysteries of the rosary. Terra-cotta benches provide rest stops along the way. The shrine is dedicated to the country’s first citizen saint, St. Frances Xavier Cabrini, who founded the Order of the Missionary Sisters of the Sacred Heart. The order has a convent here with a gift shop that’s open from 9am to 5pm daily. Allow 45 to 90 minutes.

20189 Cabrini Blvd. (I-70, exit 259), Lookout Mountain. 303/526-0758. www.mothercabrinishrine.org. Free admission, donations welcome. Summer daily 7am–7pm; winter daily 7am–5:30pm; Masses daily 7:30am, Sun also 11am.

National Earthquake Information Center The U.S. Geological Survey operates this facility to collect rapid earthquake information, transmit warnings over the Earthquake Early Alerting Service, and publish and disseminate earthquake data. Tours of 30 to 45 minutes can be scheduled by appointment when a guide is available. They include information about the NEIC, the Earthquake Early Alerting Service, and earthquakes in general.

1711 Illinois St. 303/273-8420. http://neic.usgs.gov. Free admission. Tues–Thurs 9–11am and 1–3pm, by appointment only.

National Renewable Energy Laboratory Visitor Center This federal lab’s public face features interactive exhibits covering all things renewable, from solar to biomass. The structure is a model for efficient design, with state-of-the-art heating, lighting, cooling, and insulation. Allow 1 hour.

15013 Denver West Pkwy. 303/384-6565. www.nrel.gov/visitors_center. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.

Rocky Mountain Quilt Museum This museum presents changing exhibits, including works from its permanent collection of more than 600 quilts. Consigned works are for sale in the gift shop. Allow 30 minutes.

1213 Washington Ave. 303/277-0377. www.rmqm.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors, $4 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; mid-May to Aug also Sun noon–4pm.

Where to Stay & Dine

La Quinta Inn—Golden, just off I-70, exit 264, at 3301 Youngfield Service Rd. ( 800/531-5900 or 303/279-5565), is a dependable choice, with 129 units and rates of $85 to $129 for a double room. Table Mountain Inn, 1310 Washington Ave. ( 800/762-9898 or 303/277-9898; www.tablemountaininn.com), is a smaller, slightly more expensive alternative. Rates are $119 to $209 double, $199 to $229 suite. Completely renovated in 2004, the Golden Hotel, 800 11th St. ( 800/233-7214 or 303/279-0100; www.thegoldenhotel.com), offers the best of the West, old and new, in its attractive guest rooms. Doubles run $149 to $189, suites $259 to $299.

For a good meal in a historic setting, try the Old Capitol Grill in downtown Golden, 1122 Washington Ave. at 12th Street ( 303/279-6390), which offers steak and burgers plus a good selection of sandwiches. Located in the Territorial Capitol Building constructed in 1862, the restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner, with dinner prices in the $10 to $20 range. A more upscale dinner choice is the Bridgewater Grill, in the Golden Hotel, 800 11th St. ( 303/279-2010). It serves creative regional fare in the $15 to $30 range.

Idaho Springs ★

For visitor information, contact the Idaho Springs Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 97, Idaho Springs, CO 80452 ( 303/567-4382; www.idahospringschamber.net). Information on Idaho Springs and the nearby towns of Empire, Georgetown, and Silver Plume is available from the Clear Creek County Tourism Bureau, P.O. Box 100, Idaho Springs, CO 80452 ( 866/674-9237 or 303/567-4660; www.clearcreekcounty.org).

What to See & Do

The scenic “Oh My God” dirt road, a steep, winding thoroughfare, runs from Central City through Virginia Canyon to Idaho Springs, although most visitors prefer to take I-70 directly to this community 35 miles west of Denver. Site of a major gold strike in 1859, Idaho Springs today beckons visitors to try their luck at panning for any gold that may remain. The quaint Victorian downtown is worth a look; don’t miss the Bridal Veil Falls tumbling through the largest water wheel in Colorado across from City Hall.

The Argo Gold Mine, Mill, and Museum, 2350 Riverside Dr. ( 303/567-2421; www.historicargotours.com), is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and offers tours daily from mid-April to October from 9am to 6pm. Visitors can see the Double Eagle Gold Mine, relatively unchanged since the early miners first worked it more than 100 years ago, and the mill, where ore was processed into gold. Everyone is welcome to take part in gold- and gemstone-panning. Admission is $15 for adults, $7.50 for children 7 to 12, and free for kids 6 and under. Allow at least 45 minutes.

At the Phoenix Gold Mine ★, on Trail Creek Road ( 303/567-0422; www.phoenixgoldmine.com), you can don a hard hat and follow a working miner through narrow tunnels to see what mining 100 years ago was all about. You can also pan for gold on the property and relax in the picnic area. Weather permitting, the mine is open daily from 10am to 5pm in the summer (until 4pm in the winter); the tours are informal and entertaining. Cost is $10 for adults, $5 for children 8 to 11, and free for children 7 and under. Panning without the tour is $8. Allow about 1 hour.

Just outside Idaho Springs is Indian Springs Resort, 302 Soda Creek Rd. ( 303/989-6666; www.indianspringsresort.com), a fine spot for a relaxing soak in the hot springs after a long day of skiing or hiking. The resort has a covered swimming pool, indoor and outdoor private baths, and a vapor cave with soaking pools. Rates are $18 to $24 per person for an hour in the private baths or all-day use of the vapor cave, $14 to $16 for all-day use of the pool, and $10 for a mud bath in “Club Mud.” Lodging is in rooms and cabins ($63–$134 for two) or a campground ($24 nightly); meals and weekend entertainment are also offered. The resort is open daily from 7:30am to 10:30pm year-round.

Idaho Springs is the starting point for a 28-mile drive to the summit of 14,260-foot Mount Evans ★★. From I-70, exit 240, follow Colo. 103—also called Mt. Evans Highway—as it winds along Chicago Creek through Arapahoe National Forest to Echo Lake Park, another Denver mountain park with fireplaces, hiking trails, and fishing. From here, Colo. 5—the highest paved auto road in North America—climbs to the Mount Evans summit. Views along this highway are of spectacular snowcapped peaks even in June, and you’re likely to see mountain goats, bighorn sheep, marmots, eagles, and other wildlife. The road is generally open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Allow at least 4 hours.

Another way to see this area’s great scenery is by horseback. A&A Historical Trails Stables, 5 miles up Virginia Canyon from Idaho Springs ( 303/567-4808; www.aastables.com), offers a variety of trail rides, including breakfast and moonlight rides. Rides are usually offered May through November, weather permitting. A 1-hour ride costs $30 per person, and a 2-hour ride costs $70.

Where to Stay & Dine

H&H Motor Lodge, 2445 Colorado Blvd. (P.O. Box 1359), Idaho Springs, CO 80452 ( 800/445-2893 or 303/567-2838; www.hhlodge.com), is a mom-and-pop motel on the east side of town. It offers bright and cheery rooms, TVs with HBO, a hot tub, and a sauna. The 34 rooms and suites include several larger family units. Rates are $69 for a standard double, kitchenettes $89 to $119; two-bedroom suites start at $84.

Beau Jo’s Colorado Style Pizza, 1517 Miner St. ( 303/567-4376; www.beaujos.com), offers a wide variety of so-called mountain pizzas, including standard pepperoni; “Skier Mike’s,” with Canadian bacon, green peppers, and chicken breast; and a roasted-garlic and veggie combo. Sandwiches are also available, plus a salad bar set up in a pair of old claw-foot bathtubs. The bill usually comes out to $10 to $20 per person. Another good place for a meal and/or a beer is the Buffalo Restaurant & Bar, 1617 Miner St. ( 303/567-2729; www.buffalorestaurant.com), an upscale bar and grill housed in a slickly restored 1881 building and featuring plenty of buffalo on the menu. Lunch and dinner main courses run $10 to $25.

Georgetown ★

A pretty village of Victorian-era houses and stores, Georgetown, 45 miles west of Denver on I-70 at an elevation of 8,500 feet, is named for an 1860 gold camp. Among the best preserved of the foothill mining towns, Georgetown is one of the few that didn’t suffer a major fire during its formative years. Perhaps to acknowledge their blessings, townspeople built eye-catching steeples on top of their firehouses, not their churches.

For information on attractions and travel services, drop by or contact the Georgetown Visitors Center, 613 6th St. (P.O. Box 444), Georgetown, CO 80444 ( 303/569-2888); or Historic Georgetown, Inc., 305 Argentine St., P.O. Box 667, Georgetown, CO 80444 ( 303/569-2840; www.historicgeorgetown.org). The latter offers guided walking tours of town for about $10 per person.

What to See & Do

The Georgetown–Silver Plume Mining Area was declared a National Historic Landmark District in 1966, and more than 200 of its buildings have been restored.

A convenient place to begin a walking tour is the Old County Courthouse, at 6th and Argentine streets. Now the community center and tourist information office, it was built in 1867. Across Argentine Street is the Old Stone Jail (1868); 3 blocks south, at 3rd and Argentine, is the Hamill House (see below).

Sixth Street is Georgetown’s main commercial strip. Walk east from the Old Courthouse. On your left are the Masonic Hall (1891), the Fish Block (1886), the Monti and Guanella Building (1868), and the Cushman Block (1874); on your right, the Hamill Block (1881) and the Kneisel & Anderson Building (1893). The Hotel de Paris (see below) is at the corner of 6th and Taos. Nearly opposite, at 6th and Griffith, is the Star Hook and Ladder Building (1886), along with the town hall and marshal’s office.

If you turn south on Taos Street, you’ll find Grace Episcopal Church (1869) at 5th Street, and the Maxwell House (1890) a couple of steps east on 4th. Glance west on 5th to see Alpine Hose Company No. 2 (1874) and the Courier Building (1875). North on Taos Street from the Hotel de Paris are the Old Georgetown School (1874), at 8th Street; First Presbyterian Church (1874), at 9th Street; Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church (1918), at 9th Street; and the Old Missouri Firehouse (1870), at 10th Street and Taos.

If you turn west on 9th at the Catholic church, you’ll find two more historic structures: the Bowman-White House (1892), at Rose and 9th, and the Tucker-Rutherford House (ca. 1860), a miner’s log cabin with four small rooms and a trapper’s cabin in back, on 9th Street at Clear Creek.

Georgetown Energy Museum This small museum is dedicated to educating people about the history of hydropower in Georgetown and Colorado. Located at Georgetown’s power plant—built in 1900 and still operating—the museum allows visitors an up-close look at a pair of hydroelectric-generating units in action. The museum also features photographic and text displays detailing the history of similar plants in the region, as well as a collection of antiques: washing machines, stoves, and generator meters. Allow 30 minutes.

600 Griffith St. 303/569-3557. www.georgetownenergymuseum.org. Free admission, donations accepted. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 11am–5pm; rest of the year weekdays by appointment only.

Hamill House Built in Country Gothic Revival style, this house dates from 1867, when silver speculator William Hamill owned it. When Historic Georgetown, Inc., acquired it in 1971, the house had its original woodwork, fireplaces, and wallpaper. A delicately carved outhouse had two sections: one with walnut seats for the family, the other with pine seats for servants. Allow 30 to 60 minutes.

305 Argentine St. 303/569-2840. Admission $4 adults, $3 seniors 60 and older and students, free for children 9 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 10am–4pm; early Sept to Dec Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. Closed Jan to late May except for prearranged tours.

Hotel de Paris ★ The builder of the hotel, Louis Dupuy, once explained his desire to build a French inn so far away from his homeland: “I love these mountains and I love America, but you will pardon me if I bring into this community a remembrance of my youth and my country.” The hotel opened in 1875 and soon became famous for its French Provincial luxury.

Today it’s a historical museum run by the National Society of Colonial Dames of America, embellished with many of its original furnishings, including Haviland china, a big pendulum clock, paintings and etchings, photographs by William Henry Jackson, and carved walnut furniture. The kitchen contains an antique stove and other cooking equipment, and the wine cellar houses early wine barrels, with their labels still in place. Allow 45 to 60 minutes.

409 6th St. (at Taos St.). 303/569-2311. www.hoteldeparismuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors 60 and older and children 6–17, free for children 5 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 10am–4:30pm; early Sept to Dec and May Sat–Sun noon–4pm, weather permitting. Closed Jan–Apr and major holidays.

Where to Stay & Dine

Colorado’s oldest continuously operating hotel, about 5 minutes from Georgetown, is the Peck House Hotel and Restaurant, 83 Sunny Ave. (P.O. Box 428), on U.S. 40 off I-70, exit 232, Empire, CO 80438 ( 303/569-9870; www.thepeckhouse.com). Established in 1862 as a stagecoach stop for travelers and immigrants from the East Coast, the hotel has an antiques-filled parlor lined with photos of the Peck family and their late-19th- and early-20th-century guests and a panoramic view of the Empire Valley afforded by the wide veranda. The rooms are comfortable and quaint (claw-foot tubs grace many bathrooms). There are 10 rooms (nine with private bathroom), and rates for two are in the $65 to $110 range. The hotel’s excellent restaurant serves fish and steak entrees and seriously delicious hot-fudge cake and raspberries Romanoff. The restaurant serves dinner daily year-round; prices for entrees are $15 to $30.

Back in Georgetown, the Happy Cooker, 412 6th St. ( 303/569-3166; www.thehappycookerrestaurant.com), serves unusual soups, sandwiches on homemade breads, crepes, quiches, and more substantial fare such as frittatas and eggs Benedict, in a converted home in Georgetown’s historic business district. It’s open Monday through Friday from 7am to 4pm, Saturday and Sunday from 7am to 5pm. Prices are in the $5 to $10 range, and breakfast is served all day.