Chapter 8: Colorado Springs

Magnificent scenic beauty, a favorable climate, and dreams of gold have lured visitors to Colorado Springs and neighboring Pikes Peak Country for well over 100 years. And, while the gold mining has nearly disappeared, the beauty and weather remain prime lures to this day.

In 1806, army Lt. Zebulon Pike led a company of soldiers on a trek around the base of an enormous mountain. He called it “Grand Peak,” declared it unconquerable, and moved on. Today, the 14,110-foot mountain we know as Pikes Peak has been conquered so often that an auto highway and a cog railway take visitors to the top.

Unlike many Colorado towns, neither mineral wealth nor ranching was the cornerstone of Colorado Springs’ economy during the 19th century—tourism was. In fact, Colorado Springs, founded in 1871, was the first genuine resort community west of Chicago. Gen. William J. Palmer, builder of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, established the resort on his rail line, at an elevation of 6,035 feet. The state’s growing reputation as a health center, with its high mountains and mineral springs, convinced him to build at the foot of Pikes Peak. In an attempt to lure affluent easterners, he named the resort Colorado Springs, because most fashionable eastern resorts were called “springs.” The mineral waters at Manitou Springs were only 5 miles away, and soon Palmer exploited them by installing a resident physician, Dr. Samuel Solly, who exuberantly trumpeted the benefits of Manitou’s springs both in print and in person.

The 1890s gold strikes at Cripple Creek, on the southwestern slope of Pikes Peak, added a new dimension to life in Colorado Springs. Among those who cashed in on the boom was Spencer Penrose, a middle-age Philadelphian and Harvard graduate who arrived in 1892, made some astute investments, and became quite rich. Penrose, who believed that the automobile would revolutionize life in the United States, promoted the creation of new highways. To show the effectiveness of motorcars in the mountains, he built the Pikes Peak Highway (1913–15), using more than $250,000 of his own money. Then, during World War I, at a cost of more than $2 million, he built the luxurious Broadmoor hotel at the foot of Cheyenne Mountain. World War II brought the military and defense industry to this area, and in 1958 the $200-million U.S. Air Force Academy opened.

Modern Colorado Springs is a growing city of about 400,000, with some 650,000 in the metropolitan area. The majority of its residents are conservative, and the city is also home to some of the country’s largest nondenominational churches and conservative political organizations.

To many visitors, the city retains the feel and mood of a small Western town. Most tourists come to see the Air Force Academy, marvel at the scenery at Garden of the Gods and Pikes Peak, and explore the history of America’s West. I’m pleased to report that Colorado Springs also has some of the best lodging and dining in the state.

Orientation

Arriving

By Plane

Major airlines offer nearly 100 flights a day to Colorado Springs Airport, located north of Drennan Road and east of Powers Boulevard in the southeastern part of the city ( 719/550-1972; www.flycos.com). Airlines serving Colorado Springs include Allegiant, American, Continental, Delta, Frontier, and United.

Getting to & from the Airport Several companies provide airport shuttle services; call 719/550-1930 or visit the airport’s website for information.

By Car

The principal artery to and from the north and south, I-25, bisects Colorado Springs. Denver is 70 miles north; Pueblo, 42 miles south. U.S. 24 is the principal east-west route through the city.

Visitors arriving on I-70 from the east can take exit 359 at Limon and follow U.S. 24 into the Springs. Arriving on I-70 from the west, the most direct route is exit 201 at Frisco, then Colo. 9 through Breckenridge 53 miles to U.S. 24 (at Hartsel), and finally east 66 miles to the Springs. This route is mountainous, so check road conditions before setting out in winter.

Visitor Information

Heads-Up

At an elevation of 6,035 feet, Colorado Springs has two-thirds the oxygen found at sea level; Pikes Peak, at 14,110 feet, has only one-half the oxygen.

The Experience Colorado Springs at Pikes Peak Convention and Visitors Bureau is at 515 S. Cascade Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903 ( 800/368-4748 or 719/635-7506; www.visitcos.com). Ask for the free Official Visitor Guide to Colorado Springs and the Pikes Peak Region, a colorful booklet with a comprehensive listing of accommodations, restaurants, and other area visitor services, as well as a basic but efficient map. You can also pick up more detailed maps at the Visitor Information Center as well as in local bookstores. An excellent one is the Pierson Graphics Corporation’s Colorado Springs and Monument Valley Street Map. The Visitor Information Center, at the southeast corner of Cascade Avenue and Cimarron Street, is open from 8:30am to 5pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. From I-25, take the Cimarron Street exit (exit 141), and head east about 4 blocks.

Visitors to Manitou Springs—and every Colorado Springs visitor should also get to Manitou Springs—can get information from the Manitou Springs Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau, 354 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs, CO 80829 ( 800/642-2567 or 719/685-5089; www.manitousprings.org). You can also contact the Pikes Peak Country Attractions Association at the same address ( 800/525-2250; www.pikes-peak.com).

City Layout

It’s easy to get around central Colorado Springs, which is laid out on a classic grid pattern.

If you focus on the intersection of I-25 and U.S. 24, downtown Colorado Springs lies in the northeast quadrant, bounded on the west by I-25 and on the south by U.S. 24 (Cimarron St.). Boulder Street to the north and Wahsatch Avenue to the east complete the downtown frame. Nevada Avenue (Bus. 25 and Colo. 115) parallels the freeway for 15 miles through the city, intersecting it twice; Tejon Street and Cascade Avenue also run north-south through downtown between Nevada Avenue and the freeway. Colorado Avenue and Platte Avenue are the busiest east-west downtown cross streets.

West of downtown, Colorado Avenue extends through the historic Old Colorado City district and the quaint foothill community of Manitou Springs, rejoining U.S. 24—a busy but less interesting artery—as it enters Pike National Forest.

South of downtown, Nevada Avenue intersects Lake Avenue, the principal boulevard into the Broadmoor hotel (see below), and proceeds south as Colo. 115 past Fort Carson to Cañon City.

North and east of downtown, Academy Boulevard (Colo. 83) is a good street name to remember. From the south gate of the Air Force Academy north of the Springs, it winds through residential hills, crosses Austin Bluff Parkway, and then runs without a curve 8 miles due south, finally bending west to intersect I-25 and Colo. 115 at Fort Carson. U.S. 24, which exits downtown east as Platte Avenue, and Fountain Boulevard, which leads to the airport, are among its cross streets. Austin Bluffs Parkway extends west of I-25 as Garden of the Gods Road, leading to that natural wonder.

City street addresses are divided by Pikes Peak Avenue into north and south; by Nevada Avenue into east and west.

Getting Around

Although Colorado Springs has public transportation, most visitors prefer to drive. Parking and roads are good, and some of the best attractions, such as the Garden of the Gods, are accessible only by car (or foot or bike for the truly ambitious).

By Car

For regulations and advice on driving in Colorado, see “Getting There & Around,” in chapter 3. The American Automobile Association (AAA) maintains an office in Colorado Springs at 3525 N. Carefree Circle ( 800/283-5222 or 719/591-2222; www.aaa.com), open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday from 9am to 1pm.

Car Rentals Car-rental agencies in Colorado Springs, some of which have offices in or near downtown as well as at the airport, include Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, and National/Alamo. For a list of car-rental agency websites, please see “Airline & Car-Rental Websites.”

Parking Most downtown streets have parking meters; the usual rate is 25¢ for 15 minutes to a half-hour. Look for city-run parking lots, which charge 25¢ per half-hour and also offer day rates. Outside downtown, free parking is generally available on side streets.

By Bus

Mountain Metropolitan Transit ( 719/385-7433; www.springsgov.com) provides city bus service. Buses operate Monday through Friday from about 5am to 7:30pm, except major holidays. Fares on in-city routes are $1.75 for adults; 85¢ students, children 6 to 11, seniors, and passengers with disabilities; and free for children 5 and under. Bus schedules can be obtained at terminals, city libraries, and the Colorado Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau.

By Taxi

Call Yellow Cab ( 719/777-7777) for taxi service.

On Foot

Each of the main sections of town can easily be explored without a vehicle. It’s fun, for instance, to wander the winding streets of Manitou Springs or explore the Old Colorado City “strip.” Between neighborhoods, however, distances are considerable. Unless you’re particularly fit, it’s wise to drive or take a bus or taxi.

Colorado Springs

American Express To report a lost card, call 800/528-4800; to report lost traveler’s checks, call 800/221-7282.

Area Code The telephone area code is 719.

Babysitters Front desks at major hotels often can make arrangements.

Business Hours Most banks are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and some have Saturday hours. Major stores are open Monday through Saturday from 9 or 10am until 5 or 6pm (sometimes until 9pm Fri), and often Sunday from noon until 5pm. Stores that cater to tourists are usually open longer in the summer, with shorter hours in winter.

Car Rentals See “Getting Around,” above.

Dentists For referrals for dentists who accept emergency patients, contact the Colorado Springs Dental Society ( 719/598-5161).

Doctors For referrals and other health information, call the Memorial Hospital Call Center ( 719/444-2273).

Drugstores Walgreens, 920 N. Circle Dr. ( 719/473-9090), has a 24-hour prescription service.

Emergencies For police, fire, or medical emergencies, dial 911. To reach Poison Control, call 800/332-3073.

Eyeglasses You can get 1-hour replacement of lost or broken glasses at LensCrafters in Erindale Centre at 5755 N. Academy Blvd. ( 719/548-8650).

Hospitals Memorial Hospital, 1400 E. Boulder St. ( 719/365-5000), offers full medical services, including 24-hour emergency treatment, as does Penrose–St. Francis Hospital, 2222 N. Nevada Ave. ( 719/776-5000).

Newspapers & Magazines The Gazette (www.gazette.com), published daily in Colorado Springs, is the city’s most widely read newspaper. The Denver Post is also available at newsstands throughout the city. The glossy Colorado Springs Style magazine and the politically oriented Independent are other local periodicals. USA Today and the Wall Street Journal can be purchased on the street and at major hotels.

Photographic Needs There are numerous photofinishing outlets throughout the city, including several Walgreens (www.walgreens.com) and Wolf Camera (www.wolfcamera.com) locations.

Post OfficeThe main post office is downtown at 201 E. Pikes Peak Ave. Contact the U.S. Postal Service ( 800/275-8777; www.usps.com) for hours and locations of other post offices.

Safety Although Colorado Springs is generally a safe city, it is not crime-free. Try to be aware of your surroundings at all times, and ask at your hotel or the visitor center about the safety of neighborhoods you plan to explore, especially after dark.

Taxes Total taxes on retail sales in Colorado Springs amount to about 7.4%; room taxes total about 9.4%. Rates in Manitou Springs are a bit higher, with room taxes approaching 11%.

Useful Telephone Numbers For weather and road conditions, including road construction, throughout the state, call 303/639-1111 or visit www.cotrip.org.

Where to Stay

Colorado Springs Accommodations & Dining

You’ll find a wide range of lodging possibilities here, from Colorado’s ritziest resort—the Broadmoor—to basic budget motels. There are also several particularly nice bed-and-breakfasts; the Colorado Bed and Breakfasts of the Pikes Peak Area is a good resource ( 888/835-8900 or 719/685-1120; www.pikespeakareabnbs.com). The rates listed here are the officially quoted prices (“rack rates”) and don’t take into account individual or group discounts. Generally, rates are highest from Memorial Day to Labor Day, and lowest in the spring. During graduation and other special events at the Air Force Academy, rates can increase markedly, and you may have trouble finding a room at any price. Rates listed below do not include the lodging tax (about 9% in Colorado Springs, 11% in Manitou Springs). Parking is free unless otherwise specified.

In addition to the accommodations described below, a number of moderately priced chain and franchise motels offer reliable lodging. These include the Clarion Hotel, 714 N. Nevada Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903 ( 800/424-6423 or 719/471-6880), with doubles from $89 to $149; the well-maintained Travelodge, 2625 Ore Mill Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80904 ( 800/828-4347 or 719/632-4600), with rates for two of $59 to $99; and Super 8, near Garden of the Gods at 4604 Rusina Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80907 ( 800/800-8000 or 719/594-0964), which charges $45 to $59 for a double. Those looking for a more upscale chain won’t go wrong with the Doubletree Hotel World Arena, 1775 E. Cheyenne Mountain Blvd. (I-25, exit 138), Colorado Springs, CO 80906 ( 800/222-TREE [222-8733] or 719/576-8900), with double rates from $89 to $289 and suites from $299; or the Crowne Plaza Colorado Springs Hotel, 2886 S. Circle Dr. (I-25, exit 138), Colorado Springs, CO 80906 ( 800/981-4012 or 719/576-5900), with doubles from $89 to $199.

Very Expensive

The Broadmoor ★★★ This storied resort keeps itself on the forefront of luxury, where it’s been since Spencer Penrose originally opened it in 1918. (The first names entered on the guest register were those of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., and his party.) Today the Broadmoor is an enormous resort complex of historic pink Mediterranean-style buildings with modern additions, set at the foot of Cheyenne Mountain on magnificently landscaped 3,000-acre grounds about 3 1/2 miles southwest of downtown Colorado Springs. The original Italian Renaissance–style main building features marble staircase, chandeliers, Italian tile, hand-painted beams and ceilings, and a carved-marble fountain, not to mention a priceless art collection with original work by Toulouse-Lautrec and Ming dynasty ceramicists.

Behind the main building is lovely Cheyenne Lake; a swimming pool almost seamlessly attached to the west end looks like a part of the lake. This swimming complex will make you think you’re at an oceanside beach resort, with water slides, two outdoor hot tubs, cabanas, and an outdoor cafe. The guest rooms occupy a series of separate buildings centered on the lake and pool area—new in 2009 were the new Cape Cod–style Broadmoor Cottages, set away from the bustle off a fairway. The spacious, luxurious rooms are beautifully decorated in European style, with chandeliers, Italian fabrics, rich wood, and limited-edition works of art. Most units hold two double beds or one king-size bed, desks and tables, plush seating, and two-line portable phones. Many rooms contain large soaking tubs and separate marble showers; some in the South Tower have high-tech touch screens that control the lights, the drapes, and even the “Privacy” and “Do Not Disturb” lights in the hall. The service is impeccable: The hotel averages two employees for every guest.

Lake Circle, at Lake Ave. (P.O. Box 1439), Colorado Springs, CO 80901. 800/634-7711 or 719/634-7711. Fax 719/577-5700. www.broadmoor.com. 744 units. May–Oct $420–$650 double, $625–$1,200 1-bedroom suite, from $1,400 cottage suite; Nov–Apr $300–$450 double, $475–$900 1-bedroom suite, from $950 cottage suite; year-round up to $3,400 large suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $14; valet $16. Amenities: 9 restaurants (all Continental, American, or New American); 6 lounges; 3 cafes; bikes; children’s program; concierge; 3 18-hole golf courses; health club; 2 outdoor Jacuzzis; 3 swimming pools (indoor, outdoor w/water slide, outdoor lap pool); room service; spa; 6 all-weather tennis courts (2 clay courts); watersports equipment. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Expensive

Antlers Hilton Hotel ★ The Antlers has been a Colorado Springs landmark for more than a century. Although it is in many ways geared to business travelers, for vacationers it offers the best accommodations within a short walking distance of many of downtown Colorado Springs’ major attractions and restaurants. There have been three different Antlers on this site. The first, a turreted Victorian showcase built in 1883, was named for Gen. William Palmer’s collection of deer and elk trophies. After it was destroyed by fire in 1898, Palmer built an extravagant Italian Renaissance–style building that survived until 1964, when it was leveled to make room for the more contemporary hotel, which Hilton renovated to the tune of $15 million in recent years. Antique black-walnut nightstands from the previous incarnation provide a touch of historic continuity to the spacious guest rooms, which are handsomely decorated in earth tones with rich wood furnishings. The corner rooms are larger, and I prefer the west-side rooms: They are more expensive, but worth every penny because of their unparalleled Pikes Peak views.

4 S. Cascade Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903. 877/754-9940 or 719/473-5600. Fax 719/389-0259. www.antlers.com. 292 units. $140–$190 double; $250–$695 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $15; valet $20. Amenities: 2 restaurants (American); exercise room; indoor Jacuzzi; indoor pool; room service. In room: A/C TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Cheyenne Mountain Resort ★★ Set at the foot of Cheyenne Mountain, this resort was built at a preexisting country club with a Pete Dye–designed golf course in 1985, and is something of a less-expensive alternative to the swank Broadmoor (above), just a few miles uphill. With a stunning view of the mountain from the lobby, the Cheyenne Mountain Resort features top-notch recreational facilities and attracts numerous conferences and meetings, but is an outstanding choice for tourists as well. Undergoing a slick renovation in 2010, the subtly Western rooms—which are in a series of buildings set off from the main lodge—feature red and sage tones, and have either one king or two queens (or both in some suites). The bathrooms are a cut above, with granite counters and tub/shower combos, as well as jetted soakers in the executive suites. All rooms have a private balcony, and most have great views. On Saturdays, zookeepers and animals from the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo visit for breakfast, a favorite of younger guests.

3225 Broadmoor Valley Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80906. 800/428-8886 or 719/538-4000. Fax 719/540-5779. www.cheyennemountain.com. 321 units. Summer $170–$250 double; $485–$650 suite. Lower rates fall–spring. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants (American/buffet); 2 lounges; bikes; children’s program; concierge; 18-hole golf course; health club; indoor Jacuzzi; 4 pools (3 outdoor, 1 indoor); room service; sauna; 12 indoor tennis courts (2 clay courts); watersports equipment. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Cliff House at Pikes Peak ★★ Striving to compete with the best that Colorado has to offer (and doing a pretty good job), the Cliff House is an old yet new facility. Built in 1874, it was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1980, and has hosted such eminent guests as Theodore Roosevelt, Clark Gable, and Thomas Edison. A major fire forced the Cliff House to close in 1982, and it remained closed until a massive reconstruction in 1997. The project incorporated several pieces of the hotel’s original decor, including ornate woodwork and a tile fireplace, and what the fire destroyed was replicated with an emphasis on attention to detail. Once again a grand and luxurious hotel, the Cliff House reopened in 1999.

Today the lovely, uniquely decorated accommodations vary in size and personality, although the overall decor is Queen Anne–Victorian. Units range from average-size, relatively simple studios to large, luxurious celebrity suites named for former guests. Some units have gas fireplaces, two-person spas, steam showers, and terrific views of the mountains. All have live flowering plants, robes, heated toilet seats, and working desks. I wouldn’t turn down any room at the Cliff House, but my favorite is definitely the Clark Gable Suite ($399 double in summer), which is decorated in subdued Hollywood style—if you can call leopard-print wallpaper subdued—and contains a shower for two, a jetted tub, a wet bar and refrigerator, two TVs, a gas fireplace, and photos of Clark, who stayed at the hotel in the early 1940s.

There’s a fine-dining restaurant (see “Where to Dine,” below) and the more casual Red Mountain Bar & Grill (new in 2009), and the entire property is smoke-free.

306 Cañon Ave., Manitou Springs, CO 80829. 888/212-7000 or 719/685-3000. Fax 719/685-3913. www.thecliffhouse.com. 54 units. $99–$149 double; $240–$400 suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include breakfast buffet. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (American/bar and grill); lounge; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Old Town GuestHouse ★★ Just a half-block south of the main street of Colorado Springs’ historic Old Colorado City stands this three-story redbrick inn. It may appear to be from the 1890s, but it actually dates from the 1990s. As a result, it features all the modern amenities, not to mention great service from innkeepers Don and Shirley Wick, who’ve owned the inn since 2005.

All eight of the individually decorated rooms are named for flowers: for example, Colorado Columbine, with mountain mural above the king-size bed; Moroccan Jasmine, with a Sahara Desert theme; Oriental Poppy, decorated with collectibles from the Orient; and romantic Victorian Rose. Each room has individual climate control, robes, and a queen-size or king-size bed. Several have gas-log fireplaces, seven have a private porch or balcony, and some have steam showers for two or private outdoor hot tubs. There’s an elevator, and one room is ADA compliant.

The attractive library has a fireplace, music, and overstuffed chairs. Downstairs is a game room with pool table and exercise equipment, plus wireless Internet access throughout the inn.

115 S. 26th St., Colorado Springs, CO 80904. 888/375-4210 or 719/632-9194. Fax 719/632-9026. www.oldtown-guesthouse.com. 8 units. $99–$210 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free off-street parking. Children 11 and under not accepted. In room: A/C, TV/VCR or DVD, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Chipita Lodge ★★ At 7,500 feet above sea level in dinky Chipita Park, below the looming majesty of Pikes Peak—and above a peaceful lake—is the Chipita Lodge. The historic 1927 structure began as a hotel but served as both the local post office and a real-estate office before becoming an inn again in 1997. The common area has shelves of games, a TV, and a huge fireplace; there is also an outdoor hot tub. The rooms feature interesting appointments—like a vanity made from old P.O. boxes—as well as antiques and private bathrooms, which help give the accommodations a woodsy elegance. The Chipita also rents nearby cabins for $135 to $165 a night with a 3-night minimum.

9090 Chipita Park Rd., Chipita Park, CO 80809. 877/CHIPITA (244-7482) or 719/684-8454. www.chipitalodge.com. 3 units, 2 cottages. $100–$135 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. 10 miles west of I-25, then 1 1/2 miles east on Chipita Park Rd. Amenities: Outdoor hot tub. In room: Wi-Fi (free)

Eastholme in the Rockies ★ Nestled in the quaint Pikes Peak mountain village of Cascade, 10 miles west of downtown Colorado Springs, this Victorian B&B gives guests an opportunity to see the city and get away from it all in the same day. Originally built in 1885 as a resort hotel, this property has a storied history that includes a stint as a boardinghouse before becoming a guest inn in 1988. Today it’s a favorite of vacationers who want to be within striking distance of city attractions, but whose main interests lie in the Rockies. The parlor holds a bay window, a fireplace, and antiques. Most of the inn’s large rooms feature 10-foot ceilings, and all provide plush quilts and remarkable views. The Marriott and Eisenhower suites feature original furnishings and a plethora of antiques, and the cottages offer combination VCR/DVD players, fireplaces, and spacious bathrooms with whirlpool tubs.

4445 Hagerman Ave. (P.O. Box 98), Cascade, CO 80809. 800/672-9901 or 719/684-9901. www.eastholme.com. 8 units (6 with bathroom), 2 cottages. $95–$135 double; $135 suite; $150 cottage. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. 10 miles west of I-25, about 1 mile off U.S. 24. Amenities: Outdoor Jacuzzi. In room: TV/VCR/DVD (most rooms), fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Holden House 1902 Bed & Breakfast Inn ★★ Innkeepers Sallie and Welling Clark restored this storybook 1902 Colonial Revival–style Victorian house, the adjacent carriage house, and the 1898 house next door, filling the rooms with antiques and family heirlooms. Located near Old Colorado City, the inn has a living room with a tile fireplace, a front parlor with a bay window, verandas, and a lovely garden out back. Guests enjoy 24-hour coffee-and-tea service with a bottomless cookie jar, an afternoon wine social, and a gourmet breakfast in the formal dining room. Two suites are in the main house, two are in the adjacent carriage house, and one is in the second home. Each guest room bears the name of a Colorado mining area and contains memorabilia of that district. All have sitting areas, queen-size beds, fireplaces, CD/DVD players, and tubs for two. The Cripple Creek suite features Victorian furnishings in the sitting area, a beautiful tiled fireplace, and a magnificent Roman marble tub. The Independence Suite, in the adjacent building, is accessible to guests with disabilities. Smoking is not allowed and pets are not permitted—except the two resident cats, Mingtoy and Mei-Lin.

1102 W. Pikes Peak Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80904. 888/565-3980 or 719/471-3980. Fax 719/471-4740. www.holdenhouse.com. 5 suites. $145–$160 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Children not accepted. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Family-Friendly hotels

Best Value Inn Villa Motel A swimming pool and easy access to parks and the attractions in Manitou Springs keep most kids occupied.

The Broadmoor A lake and pool area with a terrific water slide, plus tennis, golf, riding stables, and a great summer kids’ program that includes a visit to the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo all add up to a wonderful family experience.

Two Sisters Inn ★★ Built by two sisters in 1919 as a boardinghouse, this splendid bed-and-breakfast has been owned and operated by two women—sisters in spirit if not in blood—since 1990. Wendy Goldstein and Sharon Smith have furnished the four bedrooms and separate honeymoon cottage with family heirlooms and photographs, in a style best described as informal elegance. The rooms in the main house feature Victorian frills and furnishings, such as quilts and claw-foot bathtubs. The two rooms that share a bathroom are only rented together ($79 for each bedroom, plus $15 per additional person), which is a great choice for two couples. Across a splendid garden area, the small cottage, with a separate bedroom and living room, has a feather bed, gas-log fireplace, refrigerator, and shower with skylight. Fresh flowers adorn each room, and homemade chocolates and baked goods are served upon arrival.

The rooms are great, but I especially like the breakfasts, which the proprietors describe as “healthy decadence.” They often cook with herbs and vegetables from their garden, and they do some marvelous things with fruit. In the summer, Wendy and Sharon’s lemonade, made fresh with naturally sparkling Manitou Springs water, is the perfect refreshment. Smoking is not permitted.

10 Otoe Place, Manitou Springs, CO 80829. 800/2SISINN (274-7466) or 719/685-9684. www.twosisinn.com. 5 units. $95–$190 double; $155 cottage. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. Children 9 and under not accepted. Located 1 block south of the town clock on Manitou Ave. In room: No phone.

Inexpensive

Best Value Inn Villa Motel A solid option right off the main drag in Manitou Springs, the Villa offers well-kept rooms and reasonable rates within walking distance of all of Manitou’s restaurants and shops, as well as some older cottages that are the least expensive rooms on-site. The cottages have two double beds, the newer motel rooms have two queens or a king, and deluxe rooms have a jetted tub and a kitchenette to boot. For the kids, there’s a small pool and easy access to the family-friendly attractions downtown.

481 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs, CO 80829. 888/315-2378 or 719/685-5492. www.villamotel.com. 47 units. $70–$140 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Large outdoor heated pool (seasonal). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Travel Inn Popular with both business travelers and vacationers on a budget, the Travel Inn offers a comfortable place to sleep at very reasonable rates. The two-story motel with bright turquoise trim is conveniently located near downtown Colorado Springs, with easy access to all the area attractions on I-25 and U.S. 24. The remodeled rooms are simple and comfortable, with white stucco walls and dark-wood furnishings. There is one apartment with a kitchenette that is designed for longer stays.

512 S. Nevada Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80903. 719/636-3986. Fax 719/636-3980. 36 units (most with shower only). Summer $50–$90 double; fall–spring $40–$60 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor heated pool (seasonal). In room: A/C, cable TV, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

Also see the section on Mueller State Park, under “Parks & Zoos.”

Garden of the Gods Campground Located near Garden of the Gods (see “Attractions,” ), this large, tree-shaded campground offers 250 full RV hookups (30- and 50-amp service, some with modems and phones) and additional tent sites. Facilities include tables, barbecue grills, bathhouses, grocery store, Wi-Fi, laundry, heated swimming pool, whirlpool tub, playground, and clubhouse with pool tables and game room. The 12 camping cabins, which share the campground’s bathhouse, rent for $45 to $50 for a double. There are also motel-style rooms for $60 to $110 for a double. The bunkhouse and the cabins are available in summer only.

3704 W. Colorado Ave., Colorado Springs, CO 80904. 800/248-9451 or 719/475-9450. www.coloradocampground.com. Summer $35–$50; fall–spring $25–$35. Extra person $3. DISC, MC, V. Take I-25, exit 141, head west on U.S. 24, then north (right) on 31st St., then left on Colorado Ave. for 6 blocks (keep right), and turn right to gate.

Where to Dine

Colorado Springs has an excellent variety of above-average restaurants, with a good sampling of Continental cuisine, Mexican restaurants, and steak joints. See also the section on dinner theaters in “Colorado Springs After Dark,” later in this chapter.

Very Expensive

Charles Court ★★ NEW AMERICAN/REGIONAL The English country-manor atmosphere of this outstanding restaurant at the Broadmoor resort, with picture windows looking across Cheyenne Lake to the renowned hotel, lends itself to a fine-dining experience. The creative American menu, which changes seasonally, has a decidedly Rocky Mountain emphasis. You’ll usually find such delicacies as a Colorado lamb rib-eye, beef tenderloin, wild King salmon, Rocky Mountain trout, and a wild-game selection such as buffalo or venison. The wine list includes more than 600 selections, service is superlative, and the desserts are extraordinary. A seasonal outdoor patio provides splendid views of the mountains across the lake.

Broadmoor W., in the Broadmoor, Lake Circle. 719/577-5733. www.broadmoor.com. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $8–$18; dinner main courses $26–$39; 4- to 5-course tasting menus $60–$75, plus $40–$50 for wine pairings. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am and 6–10pm.

Craftwood Inn ★★★ REGIONAL Ensconced in an English Tudor building with beamed ceilings, stained-glass windows, and a copper-hooded fireplace, the casually elegant Craftwood Inn, built in 1912, was originally a coppersmith’s shop. Today this excellent restaurant specializes in regional game and also offers steak, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. The extensive selection of game—elk, venison, pheasant, quail, antelope, wild boar, ostrich, and buffalo—attracts the most acclaim. I especially recommend grilled Rocky Mountain elk steak (when available), marinated in herb and smoke-infused oil, and served with a cabernet sauvignon hunter’s sauce. Be sure to save room for one of the superb—and somewhat unusual—desserts, such as grilled pineapple with Colorado chèvre ice cream. The outdoor patio provides wonderful views of Pikes Peak.

404 El Paso Blvd., Manitou Springs. 719/685-9000. www.craftwood.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $24–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–8:30pm. Turn north off Manitou Ave. onto Mayfair Ave., go uphill 1 block, and turn left onto El Paso Blvd.; the Craftwood is on your right.

The Famous ★★ STEAK A swank urban steakhouse, the Famous is a magnet for beefeaters, serving choice cuts of U.S. prime. It’s hard to go wrong here, but bring an appetite: Except for two filets, no steak is less than a pound. I like the Kansas City Bone-In Strip, but everything is top-shelf here, even the nonbeef fare, like fresh seafood (flown in daily), Colorado lamb, and chicken Oscar. The lunch menu is similarly carnivorous, with a few salads for good measure. There are shiny booths and jet-black tables, as well as a full bar and live piano every night.

31 N. Tejon St. 719/227-7333. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $10–$15; dinner main courses $28–$50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm.

Penrose Room ★★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN While many stick with Charles Court, a solid contingent believes the Penrose Room to have elevated to the top spot among the Broadmoor’s nine resident restaurants. It’s also the top spot in terms of elevation, a stately space atop the Broadmoor South building and offering panoramic views. While the menu changes on a monthly basis, there’s always a nice selection of shellfish and seafood, plus creative interpretations of Continental classics like poached sole with tiger prawn mousse, Colorado lamb five ways, and filet mignon with celery root risotto and green tomato marmalade. Patrons have their choice of three- to five-course tasting menus with or without wine pairings. It’s best to include dessert in your tasting menu, or you’ll miss out on concoctions like rhubarb vacherin (meringue-shaped discs) with almond meringue and pinot noir consommé.

In the Broadmoor, 19 Lake Circle. 719/577-5773. www.broadmoor.com. Reservations recommended. Prix-fixe dinner $72–$158. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–9pm.

Summit ★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Flashy, modern, and new in 2006, Summit is a departure from the Broadmoor’s typical eatery formula—Continental has long ruled the roost here—but it quickly rose to the top of the local culinary stratosphere. Designed by acclaimed architect Adam Tihany, the strikingly contemporary room is at once slick and romantic, with cloth chandeliers, contemporary metalwork on the windows and walls, and a glassed-in, rotating turret holding 432 bottles of wine behind the bar. The visual spectacle is aesthetically matched by the innovative and adventurous fare—the seasonal menu might have a terrific roasted beet salad or monkfish osso buco, but it depends on what’s currently domestically available. The service is impeccable, and the sommelier is skilled at wine pairings, with a focus on biodynamic and organic wines, and wines from small wineries.

In the Broadmoor, 19 Lake Circle. 719/577-5896. www.summitatbroadmoor.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–9pm.

Walter’s Bistro ★★ CONTINENTAL Slick but not stuffy, Walter’s manages to be classy, casual, and classic, all at once. Proprietor Walter Iser, a native of Salzburg, Austria, has long worked the front of the house in various upscale properties in the Springs and environs, but he’s truly hit his stride with Walter’s, which opened in 1999 and relocated to a handsome new location in 2004. Watching over four dining areas—including a richly decorated “red room” and a chef’s table beneath windows into the kitchen—Iser has a gracious style and steady direction that inform an expertly prepared menu of Continental staples, which manage to simultaneously taste traditional but original. The menu changes regularly, but my visit included a terrific rack of lamb, herb-roasted and served with a creamy English pea risotto, pan-roasted Chilean sea bass, and a truly phenomenal bone-in filet mignon with an equally superlative bread pudding with wild mushrooms and andouille sausage. Desserts are decadent, including a chocolate “bag” filled with tiramisu, and the wine list is long and varied.

136 E. Cheyenne Mountain Blvd. 719/630-0201. Reservations recommended. Lunch main courses $9–$15; dinner main courses $25–$35. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–2pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–9pm.

Expensive

The Blue Star ★★ INTERNATIONAL/FUSION In a quiet area just south of downtown, the Blue Star is one of the most popular eateries in Colorado Springs, and deservedly so. The menu changes monthly, but it always includes filet mignon, fresh fish (flown in daily), pork, and chicken, prepared with a nose for invention. The culinary inspiration comes from Mediterranean and Pacific Rim cultures, but it is ultimately unclassifiable, and in a local class of its own. The restaurant might serve Thai chile beef tips with avocado sorbet one week and beef bourguignon the next. Social and colorful, the bar features sleek wood and metal decor, and walls are adorned with well-lit artwork, whereas the dining room’s atmosphere is milder with an open kitchen. Each room serves its own menu: The bar menu is “eating” (lunch and dinner in a social atmosphere), while the main room is serious “dining,” dinner only in a more refined space. Blue Star has won Wine Spectator’s “Best of” Award of Excellence with its 8,500-bottle cellar since 2003.

1645 S. Tejon St. 719/632-1086. www.thebluestar.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses $6–$14 lunch, $9–$30 dinner. AE, MC, V. Dining room daily 5:30–9pm. Bar open during restaurant hours; bar food service Mon–Fri 11:30am–10:30pm, Thurs–Fri 11:30am–midnight, Sat–Sun 3–10:30pm.

Cliff House Dining Room ★★ AMERICAN The Cliff House Dining Room is an excellent choice for a romantic occasion. The Villeroy & Boch china, damask linen, crystal glassware, and 19th-century tiled fireplace evoke the charm of the Victorian era. The main event is dinner: old favorites expertly prepared in new ways. While the menu changes regularly, I recommend the filet mignon, charbroiled with roasted garlic pepper, and the seafood (trout to scallops and prawns) when they’re available, but everything is quite good. As would be expected, service is impeccable. The breakfast menu offers traditional American selections, plus a nifty wild-mushroom Florentine with smoked bacon, and lunches are upscale sandwiches and entrees like quiche du jour and blackened ruby-red trout. The excellent wine list includes some 700 selections.

At the Cliff House, 306 Cañon Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/785-2415. Reservations recommended. Breakfast and lunch main courses $7–$20; dinner main courses $16–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30am, 11:30am–2:30pm, and 5:30–9pm.

Margarita at PineCreek ★★ ECLECTIC A delightful spot to sit and watch the sun set over Pikes Peak, the Margarita is tucked away on the north side of the city above two creeks and behind a gate fronted by giant carrot sculptures. The decor is attractively simple, with tile floors and stucco walls; a tree-shaded outdoor patio is open in summer, and even features outdoor movies on occasion. Saturday evenings bring live harpsichord music to the dining room, and Friday nights often feature live acoustic music—from bluegrass to Celtic. Although the style of cooking may vary, depending on the chef’s whim, the emphasis is on fresh ingredients, and everything is prepared from scratch, including breads and stocks. Lunches feature a choice of two homemade soups, salad, and fresh bread; there are also southwestern and weekly specials. Five-course dinners offer three entree choices, usually fresh fish, veal, steak, pasta, lamb, or duckling.

7350 Pine Creek Rd. 719/598-8667. Reservations recommended. Lunch $10–$11 main courses; prix-fixe dinner $35–$40; brunch $9–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Tues–Sat 5:30–8:30pm; Sun 10:30am–2pm.

The Tavern ★★ STEAK/SEAFOOD Authentic Toulouse-Lautrec lithographs on the walls and knotty pine decor mark the Tavern, open since 1939, as a restaurant with unusual ambience. In the front dining room, nightly piano music is followed by a four-piece ensemble—guests are welcome to take a turn around the dance floor between courses. The quieter garden room, with luxuriant tropical foliage, gives the feeling of outdoor dining without being outdoors. Service in both rooms is impeccable. Many selections are prepared in the restaurant’s stone grill, and the emphasis is on fresh ingredients and classic cuisine. The lunch menu changes seasonally, but typically includes steaks, gourmet burgers, crab cakes, and a variety of sandwiches and salads. Dinners are more elaborate: Choose from slow-roasted prime rib, American Kobe filet mignon, Rocky Mountain rainbow trout, or wild mushroom penne.

Broadmoor Main, at the Broadmoor, Lake Circle. 719/577-5733. www.broadmoor.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$28 lunch, $17–$58 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

The Warehouse ★★ CONTEMPORARY/FUSION This stalwart locals’ joint, which opened in 1996, emanates the style that helped launch a revitalization of the south side of downtown Colorado Springs. The Warehouse is located in, yes, a converted century-old warehouse, a mixed-use building that’s one of the most stylish addresses in the city. One side of the restaurant is the main dining area, with an array of tables centered on a copper-topped bar; across the hall is a gallery with couches where many people enjoy libations or wait for a table. The attractive industrial chic atmosphere is a nice match for the diverse menu, which is known for a filet “Oskar,” seared beef tenderloin with lemon-pepper asparagus, blue crab, and béarnaise sauce, and elk with a dark beer-hoisin sauce with wild mushrooms and lingonberries. Lunch is lighter, mainly unique sandwiches and salads, and the wine and beer lists—focused on Colorado producers—are excellent.

25 W. Cimarron St. 719475-8880. www.thewarehouserestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$15 lunch, $15–$36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–9pm; Sat 5–10pm. Closed Sun.

Moderate

Edelweiss Restaurant ★ GERMAN The Edelweiss occupies an impressive stone building with a trio of fireplaces and an outdoor biergarten. It underscores its Bavarian atmosphere with strolling folk musicians on weekends, which gives it a party feel that makes this a fun place for kids. It offers a hearty menu of Jägerschnitzel, Wiener schnitzel, sauerbraten, bratwurst, and other old-country specials, as well as New York strip steak, fresh fish, and chicken. The fruit strudels are excellent, and there are some great beers, many of them German imports.

34 E. Ramona Ave. (southwest of I-25, 1 block west of Nevada Ave.). 719/633-2220. www.edelweissrest.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$10 lunch, $10–$27 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–9pm.

El Tesoro ★ NEW MEXICAN A charming century-old adobe near the railroad west of downtown, El Tesoro is an excellent New Mexican restaurant that doubles as a gallery. Choose from the shady patio or several nooks and crannies in the adobe and enjoy blue corn enchiladas, chiles rellenos, or a spinach-and-mushroom burrito for lunch. The dinner menu also includes specialties like fire shrimp and carne adovada (slow-baked pork in ancho red-chile sauce). Desserts include flan empanadas, sopaipillas, and a Kahlúa sundae; the bar offers a nice selection of top-shelf tequilas.

10 N. Sierra Madre St. 719/471-0106. Reservations accepted. Main courses $7–$12 lunch, $11–$17 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm.

Family-Friendly restaurants

Edelweiss Restaurant Kids will enjoy the strolling musicians who play German folk music on weekends, and they’ll love the apple and cherry strudels.

Giuseppe’s Old Depot Restaurant An original locomotive stands outside this old Denver & Rio Grande Railroad station. Most kids will adore the spaghetti and pizza.

Giuseppe’s Old Depot Restaurant ★ ITALIAN/AMERICAN Located in a restored Denver & Rio Grande train station with glass ticket windows lining the walls, Giuseppe’s is a fun place with a lot of historical ambience. You can see freight trains going by just outside the windows. The same extensive menu is served all day. Spaghetti, lasagna (vegetarian spinach or spicy sausage and ground beef), and stone-baked pizza are house specialties. American dishes include legendary Reubens, plus prime rib and grilled salmon.

10 S. Sierra Madre St. 719/635-3111. www.giuseppes-depot.com. Menu items $8–$31; pizzas $11–$21. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm.

Marigold Café and Bakery ★★ INTERNATIONAL This bustling restaurant and bakery is known for its fresh ingredients and homemade breads and pastries. A low wall separates the bakery counter from the cafelike dining area. Lunch is casual, featuring traditional menus and gourmet-savvy items such as Greek pizzas and innovative sandwiches served on fresh breads. The restaurant takes on a more refined atmosphere at dinner, when the menu reflects a wide range of international influences. Favorites include flatiron steak, served with a balsamic and red-wine reduction, salmon with sautéed spinach and goat cheese and dried tomato pesto, jambalaya, and fresh pasta dishes. The bakery counter bustles through the early afternoon, offering splendid breads, pastries, and sandwiches. Box lunches, coffee, lattes, and cappuccinos are also available.

4605 Centennial Blvd. (at Garden of the Gods Rd.). 719/599-4776. Main courses $7–$10 lunch, $11–$32 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Restaurant 11am–2:30pm and 5–9pm. Coffee bar and bakery Mon–Sat 9am–9pm. Closed Sun.

Phantom Canyon Brewing Co. ★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN This popular, busy brewpub is in the Cheyenne Building, home to the Chicago Rock Island & Pacific Railroad in the early 1900s. Eight to 10 of Phantom Canyon’s specialty beers are on tap, including homemade root beer. The signature beer is the Phantom, a traditional India pale ale; others include the Cascade Amber and a light ale called Queen’s Blonde.

The dining room is large and wide-open, with ceiling fans, hardwood floors, and the large brewing vats visible in the corner. Lunch is typical but well-prepared brewpub fare: hearty salads, half-pound burgers, fish and chips, and the like. The seasonal dinner menu is varied and more innovative, with usual choices such as roasted chicken and hot bacon salad, Queen’s Blonde Ale soup, steak, and trout. The menus change periodically. On the second floor is a billiard hall with TVs and foosball. See also “Colorado Springs After Dark,” later in this chapter.

2 E. Pikes Peak Ave. 719/635-2800. Main courses $8–$13 lunch, $9–$25 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. Bar open later with a limited menu.

Ritz Grill ★ NEW AMERICAN This lively restaurant-lounge with a large central bar is where it’s at for many of the city’s young professionals. The decor is Art Deco, the service fast and friendly. The varied, trendy menu offers such specialties as Garden Ritz veggie pizza, with fresh spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, bell peppers, onions, mushrooms, fresh pesto, and three cheeses; and sesame tuna salad—served rare with wild greens, mango salsa, radish sprouts, pickled ginger chestnuts, and wasabi peas. I recommend Cajun chicken and shrimp, sautéed with bell peppers in a spicy Alfredo sauce, or the peppered ahi, spiced with pastrami and served with gingered white rice and sautéed spinach. See also “Colorado Springs After Dark,” later in this chapter.

15 S. Tejon St. 719/635-8484. www.ritzgrill.com. Main courses $7–$15 brunch and lunch, $12–$26 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 9:30am–11pm. Bar open later with a limited menu.

Inexpensive

Stalwart eateries for those on a budget include a pair of Manitou Springs favorites: Dutch Kitchen, 1025 Manitou Ave. ( 719/685-9962), serving plump sandwiches, hearty dinners, and killer homemade pies since 1959; and the Keg Bar & Grill, 730 Manitou Ave. ( 719/685-9531), serving burgers and sandwiches for lunch and steaks and seafood for dinner, with a locally famous berry salad available during both meals.

Adam’s Mountain Cafe ★★ AMERICAN/VEGETARIAN Not strictly vegetarian, Adam’s Mountain Cafe is one of the best restaurants in the area for those seeking vegetarian or healthy, largely organic—but not entirely meatless—fare. While Adam’s relocated from its longtime Cañon Avenue address to the ground floor of the restored Spa Building in 2007, the country-meets-French-Victorian vibe is still there. The menu includes grilled items, fresh fish, and many Mediterranean-style entrees. Breakfast specialties include orange-almond French toast, my top choice, and the P. W. Busboy Special, consisting of two whole-grain pancakes, two scrambled eggs, and slices of fresh fruit. Lunch offerings include sandwiches, soups, salads, fresh pasta, and southwestern plates. At dinner, I recommend the harvest crepes, packed with roasted butternut squash and finished with a vegetarian red chile, and the Mediterranean jerked gremolata.

934 Manitou Ave. (in the Spa Bldg.), Manitou Springs. 719/685-1430. www.adamsmountain.com. Main courses $5–$9 breakfast and lunch, $8–$19 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–3pm; Tues–Sat 5–9pm. Closed Mon Oct–Apr.

Amanda’s Fonda ★ AMERICAN My pick for Mexican food in Colorado Springs, Amanda’s Fonda is the handiwork of a family that has owned Mexican restaurants for six generations. Clearly they’ve honed the art of making remarkable chile in that time: Both the chile Colorado and the green chile are excellent; the former is red with big hunks of steak, the latter spicier with pork. The burritos, spinach-and-mushroom enchiladas, and seafood are also quite tasty, and on weekends the menu includes both menudo (tripe soup) and pozole (pork and hominy stew). The interior of the place is a funky maze, one part log cabin, one part family restaurant, and one part Mexican bar and grill. The shady creek-side patio is a great place for a summertime meal.

3625 W. Colorado Ave. 719/227-1975. Main courses $7–$15. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer Mon–Sat 11:30am–10pm, Sun noon–10pm; winter Mon–Sat 11:30am–9pm, Sun noon–9pm.

La’au’s HAWAIIAN TACOS An unexpected hybrid that works quite well, La’au’s is a Colorado College student favorite that takes Mexican tradition and filters it through a Pacific Rim lens—it’s one of the few taco joints on the mainland offering its customers chopsticks and Sriracha sauce. With counter service and indoor and outdoor seating, Lau’au’s tacos are topped with papaya or cabbage and often filled with Hawaiian staples such as huli chicken or mahimahi. Also on the menu are borrachas (make-your-own taco plates), salads, and bowls (tacos minus the tortillas), as are cans and bottles of beer and premade margaritas.

830 N. Tejon St., Ste. 110. 719/578-5228. Plates $5.50–$9. MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

Meadow Muffins ★ AMERICAN A fun spot for a good, inexpensive meal in a lively atmosphere, Meadow Muffins is a boisterous bar packed with movie memorabilia and assorted oddities. The decorations range from two buckboard wagons (hung from the ceiling near the front door), which were supposedly used in Gone With the Wind, to a 5-ton cannon used in a number of war movies. The menu includes chicken wings, onion rings, sandwiches, salads, and the like. The burgers are especially good—just ask anyone in the Springs—but I have to admit that I couldn’t bring myself to try the Jiffy Burger: a large ground-beef burger topped with bacon, provolone cheese, and—believe it or not—peanut butter. On most days, there are great food and drink specials. See also “Colorado Springs After Dark,” later in this chapter.

2432 W. Colorado Ave., in Old Colorado City. 719/633-0583. www.meadowmuffins.com. Most menu items $4.50–$9. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. Bar open later with a limited menu.

Attractions

Colorado Springs Attractions

Most of the attractions of the Pikes Peak region fit in two general categories: natural, such as Pikes Peak, Garden of the Gods, and Cave of the Winds; and historic/educational, including the Air Force Academy, Olympic Complex training center, museums, historic homes, and art galleries. There are also gambling houses in Cripple Creek.

If you visit Colorado from a sea-level area, you might want to schedule mountain excursions, such as the cog railway to the top of Pikes Peak, at the end of your stay. This will give your body time to adapt to the lower oxygen level at these higher elevations. See also “Staying Healthy,” in chapter 3.

The Top Attractions

Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum ★★ Housed in the former El Paso County Courthouse (1903), which is on the National Register of Historic Places, this museum is an excellent place to begin your visit to Colorado Springs. Exhibits depict the community’s rich history, including its beginning as a fashionable resort, the railroad and mining eras, and its growth and development in the 20th century. Also here is the Victorian home of writer Helen Hunt Jackson.

You can ride an Otis bird-cage elevator, which dates from the early 1900s, to the restored original courtroom, where several Perry Mason episodes were filmed. A series of murals depicts over 400 years of Pikes Peak region history. Changing exhibit areas house traveling shows such as quilts, historical photographs, aviation, American-Indian culture, and art pottery. The museum has hosted a wide range of events, including lectures on the American cowboy, antique-auto shows, jazz concerts, and Hispanic celebrations. The historical reference library and archives are available by appointment. Allow 1 to 3 hours.

215 S. Tejon St. 719/385-5990. www.cspm.org. Free admission, donations accepted. Year-round Tues–Sat 10am–4pm. Take I-25, exit 141, east to Tejon St., turn right and go 4 blocks.

Garden of the Gods ★★★ One of the West’s unique geological sites, the 1,300-acre Garden of the Gods is a giant rock garden composed of spectacular red sandstone formations sculpted by rain and wind over millions of years. Located where several life zones and ecosystems converge, the beautiful city-run park harbors a variety of plant and animal communities. The oldest survivors are the ancient, twisted junipers, some 1,000 years old. The strangest animals are the honey ants, which gorge themselves on honey in the summer and fall, becoming living honey pots to feed their colonies during winter hibernation.

The park has a number of hiking trails—mostly easy to moderate—that offer great scenery and an opportunity to get away from the crowds. Leashed dogs are permitted on some trails (owners should clean up after their pets). Many trails are also open to horseback riding and mountain biking. You can get trail maps for the park at the Garden of the Gods Visitor & Nature Center, which also offers exhibits on the history, geology, plants, and wildlife of the area; a cafeteria; and other conveniences.

A 14-minute multimedia theater presentation, How Did Those Red Rocks Get There? ($5 adults, $3 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under), made by local filmmaker John Bourbonais, is an excellent introduction to the geologic and cultural history of the area. In summer, park naturalists lead free 45-minute walks through the park and conduct free afternoon interpretive programs. You can also take a 20-minute bus tour of the park ($5 adults, $2.50 children 5–12, free for children 4 and under). You may spot technical rock climbers on some of the park spires; they are required to register at the visitor center.

Also in the park is the Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site (see “More Attractions,” below).

1805 N. 30th St. 719/634-6666. www.gardenofgods.com. Free admission. Park May–Oct daily 5am–11pm; Nov–Apr daily 5am–9pm. Visitor Center Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 8am–8pm; rest of the year daily 9am–5pm. Take Garden of the Gods Rd. west from I-25, exit 146, and turn south on 30th St.

Fit for the Gods

In 1859 large numbers of pioneers were arriving in Colorado hoping to find gold (their motto: “Pikes Peak or Bust”). Many of them established communities along what is now called the Front Range, including Colorado City, which was later incorporated within Colorado Springs.

Legend has it that certain pioneers who explored the remarkable sandstone formations in the area wanted to establish a beer garden there. However, one Rufus Cable objected: “Beer Garden! Why this is a fit place for a Garden of the Gods!”

Fortunately for posterity, Charles Elliott Perkins (head of the Burlington Railroad) bought the area some 20 years later and kept it in its natural state. Upon Perkins’s death in 1907, his heirs gave the remarkable area to Colorado Springs on the condition that it be preserved as a park and open to the public. The park was dedicated in 1909 and is now a Registered National Landmark.

Pikes Peak Cog Railway ★★ For those who enjoy rail travel, spectacular scenery, and the thrill of mountain climbing without all the work, this is the trip to take. The first passenger train climbed Pikes Peak on June 30, 1891, and diesel slowly replaced steam power between 1939 and 1955. Four custom-built Swiss twin-unit rail cars, each seating 216 passengers, went into service in 1989. The 9-mile route, with grades up to 25%, takes 75 minutes to reach the top of 14,110-foot Pikes Peak; the round-trip requires 3 hours and 10 minutes (including a 40-min. stopover at the top). Runs depart between 8am and 5pm in midsummer, with shorter hours at other times.

The journey is exciting from the start, but passengers really begin to ooh and aah when the track leaves the forest, creeping above timberline at about 11,500 feet. The view from the summit takes in Denver, 75 miles north; New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo range, 100 miles south; the Cripple Creek mining district, on the mountain’s western flank; wave after wave of Rocky Mountain subranges to the west; and the seemingly endless sea of Great Plains to the east. This is also where you’ll want to watch for Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep and yellow-bellied marmots. The Summit House at the top of Pikes Peak has a restaurant (sandwiches, snacks, beverages, and box lunches), a gift shop, and even a flavored oxygen bar.

Take a jacket or sweater—it can be cold and windy on top, even on warm summer days. This trip is not recommended if you have cardiac or respiratory problems. Even those in good health may feel faint or lightheaded.

515 Ruxton Ave., Manitou Springs. 800/745-3773 or 719/685-5401. www.cograilway.com. $33 adults, $18 children 11 and under, free for children 2 and under held on an adult’s lap. Year-round, with 2–8 departures daily late May to Sept and less frequent trains the rest of the year; call or check schedules online. Reservations required (available online). Take I-25, exit 141, west on U.S. 24 for 4 miles, turn onto Manitou Ave. west and go 1 1/2 miles to Ruxton Ave., turn left and go about 1⁄2 mile.

Top of the Charts

Teacher Katharine Lee Bates (1859–1929) wrote the patriotic song “America the Beautiful” after an 1895 wagon trip to the top of Pikes Peak.

Pikes Peak Highway ★ Perhaps no view in Colorado equals the 360-degree panorama from the 14,110-foot summit of Pikes Peak. Whether you go by cog railway (see above) or private vehicle, the ascent is a spectacular, exciting experience—although not for those with heart or breathing problems or a fear of heights. The 19-mile toll highway (paved for 10 miles, all-weather gravel thereafter) starts at 7,400 feet, some 4 miles west of Manitou Springs. There are numerous photo-op stops as you head up the mountain, and deer, mountain sheep, marmots, and other animals often appear on the slopes, especially above the timberline (around 11,500 ft.). This 156-curve road is the site of the annual Pikes Peak International Hill Climb (see “Spectator Sports,” later in this chapter). Allow 3 hours minimum.

Off U.S. 24 at Cascade Ave. 800/318-9505 or 719/385-7325. www.pikespeakcolorado.com. Admission $10 adults, $4 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under, $35 maximum per car. Fri before Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 7:30am–6pm; rest of Sept daily 7:30am–5pm; Oct to late May daily 9am–3pm, weather permitting. Take I-25, exit 141, west on U.S. 24 about 10 miles.

United States Air Force Academy ★★ Colorado Springs’ pride and joy got its start in 1954 when Congress authorized the establishment of a U.S. Air Force Academy and chose this 18,000-acre site from among 400 prospective locations. The first class of cadets enrolled in 1959, and each year since, about 4,000 cadets have enrolled for the 4 years of rigorous training required to become Air Force officers.

The Academy is 12 miles north of downtown; enter at the North Gate, off I-25, exit 156B. Soon after entering the grounds, at the intersection of North Gate Boulevard and Stadium Boulevard, you’ll see an impressive outdoor B-52 bomber display. Where North Gate Boulevard becomes Academy Drive (in another mile or so), look to your left to see the Cadet Field House, where the basketball and ice-hockey teams play (see “Spectator Sports,” later in this chapter), and the Parade Ground, where you can sometimes spot cadets marching.

Academy Drive soon curves to the left. Six miles from the North Gate, signs mark the turnoff to the Barry Goldwater Air Force Academy Visitor Center. Open daily, it offers a variety of exhibits and films on the academy’s history and cadet life, extensive literature and self-guided tour maps, and the latest information and schedules on academy activities. There’s also a large gift shop and coffee shop.

A short trail from the visitor center leads to the unmistakable Cadet Chapel. Its 17 gleaming aluminum spires soar 150 feet, and within the building are separate chapels for the major Western faiths as well as an “all faiths” room. The public can visit Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday noon to 5pm; Sunday services at 10am are open to the public. The chapel is closed for 5 days around graduation and during special events.

Also within easy walking distance of the visitor center is Arnold Hall, the social center that houses historical exhibits, a cafeteria, and a theater featuring a variety of public shows and lectures.

Off I-25, exit 156B. 719/333-2025. www.usafa.af.mil. Free admission. Visitor center daily 9am–5pm; grounds 8am–6pm; additional hours for special events.

United States Olympic Complex So you think your local fitness center is state of the art? Check out the 37-acre United States Olympic Complex, a sophisticated center where thousands of athletes train each year in a variety of Olympic sports. Free guided tours, available daily, take about an hour, and include a film depicting the U.S. Olympic effort. Visitors may also see athletes in training. The visitor center includes the U.S. Olympic Hall of Fame, interactive kiosks on Olympics subjects, various other displays, and a gift shop that sells Olympic-logo merchandise.

The complex includes the Olympic Sports Center I, with five gymnasiums and a weight-training room; Sports Center II, which accommodates 14 sports; the Indoor Shooting Center, the largest facility of its kind in the Western Hemisphere, with areas for rifle and pistol shooting, rapid-fire and women’s sport pistol bays, running-target rifle ranges, and air-rifle and pistol-fire points; and the Aquatics Center, which contains a 50×25m pool with two movable bulkheads, 10 50m and 20 25m lanes, and more than 800,000 gallons of water. The U.S. Olympic Committee also operates the 7-Eleven Velodrome, with a banked track for bicycle and roller speed skating, about 1 mile south of the Olympic Complex, in Memorial Park (see “Parks & Zoos,” later in this chapter) off Union Boulevard. Olympic figure skaters train at the World Arena, southwest of downtown. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

1 Olympic Plaza, corner of Boulder St. (entrance) and Union Blvd. 888/659-8687 or 719/866-4618. www.usolympicteam.com. Free admission. Complex daily 9am–6pm. Guided tours begin every half-hour 9am–4:30pm (hourly Aug–May); reservations required for groups of 10 or more ( 719/866-4656). From I-25, take exit 143.

More Attractions

Architectural Highlights

The Broadmoor This famous Italian Renaissance–style resort hotel has been a Colorado Springs landmark since Spencer Penrose built it in 1918. (See “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter.) Stroll around the lake, have a drink at one of the watering holes, and look at the “Walk of Fame” near Charles Court, a hallway of photographs of celebrities at the resort, everyone from Jackie Gleason to the Shah of Iran to Aerosmith.

Lake Circle, at Lake Ave. 719/634-7711. www.broadmoor.com. Free admission. Daily year-round.

Miramont Castle Museum Architecture buffs will love this place. Built into a hillside by a wealthy French priest as a private home in 1895 and converted by the Sisters of Mercy into a sanatorium in 1907, this unique Victorian mansion has always aroused curiosity. The structure incorporates at least nine identifiable architectural styles in its four stories, 46 rooms, 14,000 square feet of floor space, and 2-foot-thick stone walls. If you like tiny stuff, don’t miss the room housing the miniatures museum. In summer, lunches, desserts, and tea are served Tuesday through Saturday from 11am to 4pm in the Queen’s Parlour. The museum lies on the route from Manitou Avenue to the Pikes Peak Cog Railway. Allow at least 1 hour.

9 Capitol Hill Ave., Manitou Springs. 888/685-1011 or 719/685-1011. www.miramontcastle.org. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors 60 and over, $5 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 9am–5pm; rest of year Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun noon–4pm. Located 1 block west of the intersection of Manitou and Ruxton aves.

Historic Buildings

McAllister House This Gothic cottage, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, is a good place for a quick look at the Colorado of the late 19th century. It was built in 1873, and the builder, an army major named Henry McAllister, decided to construct the house with brick when he learned that the local wind was so strong it had blown a train off the tracks nearby. The house has many original furnishings, including three marble fireplaces. It is now owned by the Colonial Dames of America, whose knowledgeable volunteers lead guided tours. Allow about 1 hour.

423 N. Cascade Ave. (at St. Vrain St.). 719/635-7925. www.mcallisterhouse.org. Admission $5 adults, $4 seniors 62 and older, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Summer Tues–Sat 10am–4pm; winter Thurs–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Jan. Take I-25, exit 141, east to Cascade Ave.; go left and continue for about 6 blocks.

Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site Visitors can explore the history of three pioneer eras at this living-history farm, at the east edge of Garden of the Gods Park. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the ranch presents the rigors of the homestead era at the 1860s Galloway Homestead, the agricultural difficulties of the working-ranch era at the 1880s Chambers Farm and Blacksmith Shop, and the more sophisticated estate period at the 1907 Orchard House. Special events, which take place frequently, include an old-fashioned Fourth of July celebration, an 1860s vintage baseball game in late summer, a Victorian Halloween party, and holiday celebrations Thanksgiving through Christmas. The General Store stocks a wide selection of historic reproductions, books, and gift items, and the proceeds help with preservation and restoration of the ranch. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

N. 30th St. and Gateway Rd., Garden of the Gods. 719/578-6777. www.rockledgeranch.com. Admission $6 adults, $4 seniors 55 and older and students 13–18, $2 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. June to Labor Day Wed–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Labor Day to May. Take I-25, exit 146, and then follow signs west to Garden of the Gods.

Historic Neighborhoods

Manitou Springs, which centers on Manitou Avenue off U.S. 24 W., is a separate town with its own government. It is one of the country’s largest National Historic Districts. Legend has it that Utes named the springs Manitou, their word for “Great Spirit,” because they believed that the Great Spirit had breathed into the waters to create the natural effervescence of the springs. Pikes Peak soars above the town nestled at its base.

Today, the community offers visitors a chance to step back to a slower and quieter time. It boasts numerous elegant Victorian buildings, many of which house delightful shops, galleries, restaurants, and lodgings. Manitou Springs is also home to many fine artists and artisans, whom you might spot painting or sketching about town. A small group of sculptors began the Manitou Art Project in 1992; it installed more than 20 sculptures in various locations downtown and in the parks, creating a large sculpture garden for all to enjoy. The works, which stay on display for a year, are for sale, with 25% of the proceeds used to purchase permanent sculpture for the city.

Visitors are encouraged to take the self-guided tour of the nine restored mineral springs of Manitou. Pick up the Manitou Springs Visitor’s Guide, which contains a map and descriptions to help you find each spring. It’s available at the Manitou Springs Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau, 354 Manitou Ave. ( 800/642-2567 or 719/685-5089; www.manitousprings.org), which is open daily.

Old Colorado City, Colorado Avenue between 21st and 31st streets, was founded in 1859, 12 years before Colorado Springs. The town boomed in the 1880s after General Palmer’s railroad came through. Tunnels led from the respectable side of town to this saloon and red-light district so that the city fathers could carouse without being seen coming or going—or so the legend goes. Today this historic district has an interesting assortment of shops, galleries, and restaurants.

Museums & Galleries

Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center ★ The center’s permanent American collection includes works by legends such as Georgia O’Keeffe, John James Audubon, John Singer Sargent, Charles Russell, and other famed artists such as Dale Chihuly, as well as a world-class collection of Native American and Latin American works. Opened in 1936 and fabulously expanded in 2007, the center also houses a 450-seat performing-arts theater, a 32,000-volume art-research library, the Bemis School of Art, a tactile gallery for those who are visually impaired, and a delightful sculpture garden. The expansion doubled the gallery space and won raves from architectural critics. Changing exhibits showcase local collections as well as touring international exhibits. Designed by renowned Santa Fe architect John Gaw Meem (whose work is nicely complemented by Denver-based David Tryba’s colorful expansion), the Art Deco–style building reflects southwestern mission and Pueblo influences. There is Amuzé for lunch and the Deco Lounge for coffee and cocktails on weekend nights. Allow 1 to 3 hours.

30 W. Dale St. (west of N. Cascade Ave.). 719/634-5581. www.csfineartscenter.org. Admission to galleries and museum $10 adults, $8.50 seniors and students 5–17, free for children 4 and under. Separate admission for performing-arts events. Galleries and museum Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed federal holidays. Take I-25, exit 143, east to Cascade St., turn right to Dale St., and then turn right again.

Ghost Town Wild West Museum A fun place to take the family, Ghost Town Wild West Museum is part historic attraction, part theme park. Made up of authentic 19th-century buildings relocated from other parts of Colorado, this “town” is sheltered from the elements in Old Colorado City. There’s a sheriff’s office, jail, saloon, general store, livery stable, blacksmith shop, rooming house, and assay office. Animated frontier characters tell stories of the Old West, while a shooting gallery, antique arcade machines, and nickelodeons provide additional entertainment. During the summer you can even pan for real gold. Allow about 2 hours.

400 S. 21st St. (on U.S. 24). 719/634-0696. www.ghosttownmuseum.com. Admission $6.50 adults, $5 children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; Sept–May daily 10am–5pm. Take I-25, exit 141; town is just west of exit.

Manitou Cliff Dwellings Preserve & Museums ★ The cliff-dwelling ruins here are real, although originally they were located elsewhere. This put me off at first—they would be more authentic if they were in their original location—but the move here may have saved them. In the early 1900s, archaeologists, who saw such dwellings being plundered by treasure hunters, dismantled some of the ancient buildings, gathered artifacts found there, and hauled them away. Some of these ruins, constructed from a.d. 1200 to 1300, can be seen here in a village reconstructed by archaeologists. There are also two museums with exhibits on prehistoric American Indian life, and several gift shops that sell American Indian–made jewelry, pottery, and other crafts, plus Colorado souvenirs. American Indian dancers perform during the summer. Allow 2 hours.

U.S. 24, Manitou Springs. 800/354-9971 or 719/685-5242. www.cliffdwellingsmuseum.com. Admission $9.50 adults, $8.50 seniors 60 and over, $7.50 children 7–11, free for children 6 and under. May–Sept daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Nov and Mar–Apr daily 9am–5pm; Dec–Feb daily 10am–4pm. Closed Thanksgiving and Dec 25. Take I-25, exit 141, and go west on U.S. 24 about 5 miles.

May Natural History Museum of the Tropics Here you’ll find one of the world’s best public collections of giant insects and other tropical invertebrates, not to mention a statue out front touted to be the world’s largest Hercules beetle. James F. W. May (1884–1956) spent more than half a century exploring the world’s jungles while compiling his illustrious collection of more than 100,000 invertebrates, about 8,000 of which are on display at the museum at any given time. The specimens are irreplaceable, because many came from areas that are now so politically unstable that no one is willing or able to explore the backcountry to collect them again. Exhibits change periodically. Also on the grounds is the Museum of Space Exploration, where you can take a pictorial trip through the history of space exploration, beginning with humans’ first attempts to fly and continuing through the most recent photos from NASA. Allow 2 to 3 hours for both museums. There’s also a 500-site campground with hiking trails, fishing, and a playground area.

710 Rock Creek Canyon Rd. 719/576-0450. www.maymuseum-camp-rvpark.com. Admission (includes Museum of Space Exploration) $6 adults, $5 seniors 60 and older, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. May–Sept daily 9am–6pm. Closed Oct–Apr except for groups of 10 or more. Take Colo. 115 and drive southwest out of Colorado Springs for 9 miles; watch for signs and the Hercules Beetle of the West Indies that mark the turnoff to the museum.

Money Museum ★ Operated by the American Numismatic Association, this museum is the largest collection of its kind west of the Smithsonian Institution, consisting of four galleries of coins, tokens, medals, and paper money from around the world. Of special note is the earliest reale (Spanish coin) struck in the New World (Mexico), dating from 1536. There’s also an 1804 dollar, a 1913 “V” nickel, and a nice collectors’ library. Allow 1 hour.

818 N. Cascade Ave., on the campus of Colorado College. 719/632-2646. www.money.org. $5 adults, $4 seniors and students, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10:30am–5pm. Take I-25, exit 143, east to Cascade Ave., then turn right, and go about 6 blocks.

Peterson Air & Space Museum Through its exhibits, this museum traces the history of Peterson Air Force Base, NORAD, the Air Defense Command, and Air Force Space Command. Of special interest are 16 historic aircraft, including P-47 Thunderbolt and P-40 Warhawk fighters from World War II, plus a number of missiles and jets from the Korean War to the present. To mark the 50th anniversary of the U.S. Air Force, a memorial grove of 58 conifer trees honoring the USAF Medal of Honor recipients was planted. There’s also a small gift shop. Allow 1 to 2 hours. Note: Visitors must have a military ID or give administration at least 24 hours’ advance notice to get on the base (72 hr. for Sat visits).

Peterson Air Force Base main gate, off U.S. 24 7 miles east of downtown. 719/556-4915. www.petemuseum.org. Free admission. Tues–Sat 9am–4pm. Closed holidays and occasionally during military exercises; call ahead. Take I-25, exit 141, and then follow U.S. 24 east about 7 1/2 miles.

ProRodeo Hall of Fame & American Cowboy Museum ★★ No rhinestone cowboys here. This is the real thing, with exhibits on the development of rodeo, from its origins in early ranch work to major professional sport. You’ll learn about historical and modern cowboys, including those brave (or crazy) enough to climb onto bucking broncos and wild bulls, in Heritage Hall. The Hall of Champions displays photos, gear, personal memorabilia, and trophies honoring rodeo greats. There are two multimedia presentations, and the museum features changing exhibits of Western art. Outside you’ll find a replica rodeo arena, live rodeo animals, and a sculpture garden. Allow 2 hours.

101 ProRodeo Dr. (off Rockrimmon Blvd.). 719/528-4764. www.prorodeohalloffame.com. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors 55 and older, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Memorial Day to Aug daily 9am–5pm; Sept to day before Memorial Day Wed–Sun 9am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25. Take I-25 to exit 147.

Western Museum of Mining & Industry ★★ Machines are fun, and the bigger the better. Historic hard-rock mining machinery and other equipment from Cripple Creek and other late-19th-century Colorado gold camps form the basis of this museum’s 4,000-plus-item collection. Visitors can see an operating Corliss steam engine with an enormous 17-ton flywheel, a life-size underground mine reconstruction, and an exhibit on mining-town life, not to mention the museum’s resident donkeys. You can also pan for gold—there’s a wheelchair-accessible trough—and view a 23-minute video presentation on life in the early mining camps. Various hands-on family activities focus on themes such as life in a mining town, minerals in everyday products, and recycled art. Free guided tours are available; call for information and times. Allow at least 2 hours.

225 North Gate Blvd., at I-25, exit 156A (off Gleneagle Dr. just east of the north gate of the U.S. Air Force Academy). 800/752-6558 or 719/488-0880. www.wmmi.org. Admission $8 adults, $6 seniors 60 and older and students 13–17, $4 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. June–Aug Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sept–May Mon–Sat 9am–4pm. Guided tours begin at 10am and 1pm. Located just east of I-25 via Gleneagle Dr.

World Figure Skating Museum & Hall of Fame This is the only museum of its kind in the world, exhibiting 1,200 years of ice skates—from early versions of carved bone to highly decorated cast-iron examples and finally the steel blades of today. There are also skating costumes, medals, and other memorabilia; changing exhibits; films; a library; and a gift shop. A gallery displays skating-related paintings, including works by the 17th-century Dutch artist Pieter Bruegel and Americans Winslow Homer and Andy Warhol. The museum is recognized by the International Skating Union, the sport’s international governing body, as the repository for the history and official records of figure skating and the sport’s official hall of fame. Here also are the U.S. national, regional, sectional, and international trophies. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

20 1st St. 719/635-5200. www.worldskatingmuseum.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 seniors 60 and over and children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Summer Mon–Fri 10am–4pm; closed Mon rest of year. Closed Sat–Sun and major holidays. Take I-25, exit 138, west on Lake Ave.; just before the Broadmoor, turn right onto 1st St.

Natural Attractions

Cave of the Winds ★ Discovered by two boys on a church outing in the 1880s, this impressive underground cavern has offered public tours for well over a century. It provides a good opportunity to see the beauty of the underworld. The 45-minute Discovery Tour takes visitors along a well-lit 3⁄4-mile passageway through 20 subterranean chambers, complete with classic stalagmites, stalactites, crystal flowers, and limestone canopies. In the Adventure Room, modern lighting techniques return visitors to an era when spelunking was done by candle and lantern. The 1 1/2-hour Lantern Tour follows unpaved and unlighted passageways and corridors. This tour is rather strenuous, with some stooping required in areas with low ceilings; it might muddy your shoes, but not your clothes.

U.S. 24, Manitou Springs. 719/685-5444. www.caveofthewinds.com. Discovery Tour $18 adults, $9 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. Tours depart every 15–30 min. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 9am–5pm; early Sept to late May daily 10am–4:30pm. Eco-Venture Flashlight Tour Lantern $18 adults, $9 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under. Tours depart every 15–30 min. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 6–9pm. Tours (on the hour daily in summer and 3 times daily on winter weekends) $22 adults, $12 children 6–15, children 5 and under are not permitted. Visitors with heart conditions, visual impairment, or other physical limitations are advised not to take Lantern Tour. Take I-25, exit 141, and go 6 miles west on U.S. 24.

Seven Falls This is a good choice for those who have not yet gotten their fill of Colorado’s spectacular mountain scenery. A picturesque 1-mile drive through a box canyon takes you between the Pillars of Hercules, where the canyon narrows to just 42 feet, ending at these cascading falls. Seven separate waterfalls dance down a granite cliff, cascading some 181 feet. A free elevator takes visitors to the Eagle Nest viewing platform. A mile-long trail atop the plateau passes the grave of 19th-century novelist Helen Hunt Jackson, the author of Ramona, and ends at a panoramic view of Colorado Springs. Watch for birds and other wildlife along the way. Allow 2 hours.

At the end of S. Cheyenne Canyon Rd. 719/632-0765. www.sevenfalls.com. Day admission $9.25 adults, $8 seniors, $6 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under; night admission $11 adults, $10 seniors, $7 children 6–15, free for children 5 and under; lower rates in winter. Mid-May to early Aug daily 8:30am–1pm; early Aug to early Sept daily 8:30am–9pm; rest of year daily 9am–4:15pm (to 5:15pm during daylight saving time). Christmas lighting daily mid- to late Dec 5–9:30pm. Closed major holidays. Take I-25, exit 141; head west on U.S. 24, turn south on 21st St. for about 3 miles, turn west on Cheyenne Blvd., and then left onto S. Cheyenne Canyon Rd.

Impressions

The air is so refined that you can live without much lungs.

—Shane Leslie, American Wonderland, 1936

Parks & Zoos

Cheyenne Mountain Zoo ★ On the lower slopes of Cheyenne Mountain, at 6,800 feet above sea level—making it the nation’s highest—this medium-size zoological park is my top choice for a family outing. The zoo’s 700-plus animals, many in “natural” environments, include wolves, lions, leopards, red pandas, elephants, hippos, monkeys, giraffes, snakes, mountain lions, grizzly bears, and moose. Rocky cliffs have been created for the mountain goats; there’s a pebbled beach for penguins and an animal-contact area for children. The zoo is also home to more than 30 endangered species, including the Siberian tiger, Amur leopard, and black-footed ferret. The zoo’s giraffe herd is the largest and most prolific captive herd in the world; there have been about 200 live births since the 1950s. Visitors can actually feed the long-necked beasts ($1 for three crackers).

There’s also a colorful antique carousel, built in 1926, the year the zoo was founded, and a new chairlift dubbed the Mountaineer Sky Ride ($5 adults, $4 kids 3–11). A stroller- and wheelchair-accessible tram makes a full loop of the zoo in about 15 minutes; it operates from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Admission to the zoo includes road access to the nearby Will Rogers Shrine of the Sun, a granite tower built in 1937, with photos and information on the American humorist. The tower also affords great views of the city and surrounding countryside. Strollers, double strollers, wheelchairs, and wagons are available for rent at Thundergod Gift and Snack Shop. Allow 2 to 4 hours for the zoo and an extra 45 minutes for the shrine.

4250 Cheyenne Mountain Zoo Rd. 719/633-9925. www.cmzoo.org. Admission $14 adults, $12 seniors 65 and over, $7 children 3–11, free for children 2 and under. Summer daily 9am–6pm; off season daily 9am–5pm. Take I-25, exit 138; drive west to the Broadmoor hotel and follow signs.

Memorial Park One of the largest parks in the city, Memorial is home to the Mark “Pa” Sertich Ice Center and the Aquatics and Fitness Center, as well as to the famed 7-Eleven Velodrome, which is used for world-class bicycling events. Other facilities include baseball and softball fields, volleyball courts, tennis courts, a bicycle criterium, and jogging trails. The park also stages a terrific fireworks display on Independence Day. See the sections on ice-skating, swimming, and tennis under “Outdoor Activities,” below.

1605 E. Pikes Peak Ave. (btw. Hancock Ave. and Union Blvd.). 719/385-5940. www.springsgov.com (follow links). Free admission. Daily year-round. Located 1 mile east of downtown.

Monument Valley Park This long, slender park follows Monument Creek through downtown Colorado Springs. At its south end are formal zinnia, begonia, and rose gardens, and in the middle are demonstration gardens of the Horticultural Art Society. Facilities include softball and baseball fields, volleyball and tennis courts, children’s playgrounds, and picnic shelters. Also in the park are the 4.3-mile Monument Creek Trail for walkers, runners, and cyclists, and the 1-mile Monument Valley Fitness Trail at the north end, beside Bodington Field.

170 W. Cache La Poudre Blvd. 719/385-5940. www.springsgov.com (follow links). Free admission. Daily year-round.

Mueller State Park ★★★ Somewhat like a junior version of Rocky Mountain National Park, Mueller contains over 5,000 acres of prime scenic beauty along the west slope of Pikes Peak. The 55 miles of trails, designated for hikers, horseback riders, and mountain bikers, provide opportunities to observe elk, bighorn sheep, black bear, and the park’s other wildlife. The best times to spot wildlife are spring and fall, just after sunrise and just before sunset. In the summer, rangers lead hikes and offer campfire programs in a 100-seat amphitheater. The park has 132 campsites ( 800/678-2267 for reservations), with fees ranging from $16 for walk-in sites to $20 for drive-in sites with electricity; coin-operated pay showers are available from mid-May to mid-October. Also available are two- to four-bedroom cabins for $120 to $240 a night,

P.O. Box 39, Divide, CO 80814. 719/687-2366. www.parks.state.co.us. Admission $6 per vehicle. Take U.S. 24 west from Colorado Springs to Divide (25 miles), and then go 3 1/2 miles south on Colo. 67.

North Cheyenne Cañon Park and Starsmore Discovery Center ★★ A delightful escape on a hot summer day, this 1,600-acre park includes North Cheyenne Creek, which drops 1,800 feet over the course of 5 miles in a series of cascades and waterfalls. The heavily wooded park contains picnic areas and about 15 miles of hiking/biking/horseback riding trails. The small visitor center at the foot of scenic Helen Hunt Falls has exhibits on history, geology, flora, and fauna. The Starsmore Discovery Center at the entrance to the park holds maps, information, and interactive exhibits for both kids and adults, including audiovisual programs and a climbing wall where you can learn about rock climbing. Call for current climbing-wall hours. During the summer, the center schedules a series of free programs on subjects such as rock climbing, butterflies, and hummingbirds, and guided walks and hikes (call for the current schedule). The park also has excellent rock-climbing areas for experienced climbers; pick up information at the Starsmore Discovery Center or Helen Hunt Falls Visitor Center.

2120 S. Cheyenne Cañon Rd. (west of 21st St.). 719/578-6086 or 719/633-5701 (summer only). www.springsgov.com (follow links). Free admission. Park daily year-round. Starsmore Discovery Center summer daily 9:30am–5pm; call for hours at other times. Helen Hunt Falls Visitor Center Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 9:30am–5pm; closed rest of year. Located just west of the Broadmoor Golf Club via Cheyenne Blvd.

Palmer Park Deeded to the city in 1899 by Colorado Springs founder Gen. William Jackson Palmer, this 737-acre preserve offers hiking, biking, and horseback riding across a mesa overlooking the city. It contains a variety of minerals (including quartz, topaz, jasper, and tourmaline), rich vegetation (including a yucca preservation area), and considerable wildlife. The Edna Mae Bennet Nature Trail is a self-guided excursion, and there are numerous other trails. Other facilities include 12 separate picnic areas, softball and baseball fields, and volleyball courts.

3650 Maizeland Rd. off Academy Blvd. 719/385-5940. www.springsgov.com (follow links). Free admission. Daily year-round. Located 3 miles east of I-25 via Austin Bluffs Pkwy. (exit 146).

Especially for Kids

In addition to the listings below, children will probably enjoy the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, May Natural History Museum, and Ghost Town.

Arcade Amusements, Inc. ★ Among the West’s oldest and largest amusement arcades, this game complex just might be considered a hands-on arcade museum as well as a fun place for kids of all ages. Some 250 machines range from original working penny pinball machines to modern video games, Skee-Ball, and 12-player horse racing.

900 block Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-9815. Free admission; arcade games from 1¢. Early May to Labor Day daily 10am–10pm. Call for winter hours. Located in downtown Manitou Springs.

North Pole/Santa’s Workshop A Christmas-themed amusement park, Santa’s Workshop is busy from mid-May until December 24. Not only can kids visit shops where elves have some early Christmas gifts for sale, they can see Santa and whisper their requests in his ear. This 26-acre village features numerous rides, including a miniature train, a 60-foot Ferris wheel (claimed to be the highest in the world), and a space-shuttle replica that swings to and fro, as well as magic shows and musical entertainment, snack shops, and an ice-cream parlor.

At the foot of Pikes Peak Hwy. off U.S. 24, 5 miles west of Manitou Springs. 719/684-9432. www.santas-colo.com. Admission (includes all rides, shows, and attractions) $18 ages 2–59, free for seniors 60 and over and children 1 and under. Mid-May to late Aug daily 10am–5pm; late Aug to Dec 23 (weather permitting) Fri–Tues 10am–5pm; Dec 24 10am–4pm. Closed Dec 25 to mid-May. Take I-25, exit 141, and go west on U.S. 24 about 10 miles.

Organized Tours

Half- and full-day bus tours of Colorado Springs, Pikes Peak, the Air Force Academy, and other nearby attractions are offered by Gray Line Colorado Springs, 2375 Janitell Rd. ( 800/345-8197 or 719/633-1181; www.grayline.com). Prices range from $35 to $50 per person.

A free downtown walking tour brochure, with a map and descriptions of more than 30 historic buildings, is available at the Colorado Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau, as well as at local businesses. Another free brochure shows the location of more than a dozen historic buildings and lists shops, galleries, and other businesses in Old Colorado City. The Manitou Springs Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter) distributes a free visitor’s guide with a self-guided walking-tour map of the town’s historic mineral springs, as well as information on where to find a variety of outdoor sculptures. See “Historic Neighborhoods,” earlier in this chapter.

Outdoor Activities

For information on the city’s parks and programs, contact the Colorado Springs Parks and Recreation Department ( 719/385-5940; www.springsgov.com). Most of the state and federal agencies concerned with outdoor recreation are headquartered in Denver. There are branch offices in Colorado Springs for Colorado State Parks, 2128 N. Weber St. ( 719/471-0900; www.parks.state.co.us); the Colorado Division of Wildlife, 4255 Sinton Rd. ( 719/227-5200; www.wildlife.state.co.us); and the U.S. Forest Service, Pikes Peak Ranger District of the Pike National Forest, 601 S. Weber St. ( 719/636-1602).

You can get hunting and fishing licenses at many sporting-goods stores, as well as at the Colorado Division of Wildlife office listed above.

Aerial Sports The Black Forest Soaring Society, 24566 David C. Johnson Loop, Elbert, CO 80106 ( 303/648-3623; www.soarbfss.org), some 50 miles northeast of Colorado Springs, offers glider rides, rentals, and instruction. Rides start at about $100 for a 15-minute ride; rentals (to those with gliding licenses) and instruction are also available. Advance reservations are required.

The area’s commercial ballooning companies include High but Dry Balloons, 4164 Austin Bluffs Pkwy., #146, Colorado Springs, CO 80918 ( 719/260-0011; www.highbutdryballoons.com), for tours, champagne flights, and weddings. Sunrise flights are scheduled daily year-round, weather permitting. Cost depends on the number of passengers, locations, and type of flight, but start at about $200 per person. Generally, flights last 2 or 3 hours, with a minimum of 1 hour. On Labor Day weekends since 1977, the Colorado Springs Balloon Classic ★★ ( 719/471-4833; www.balloonclassic.com) sees over 100 hot-air balloons launched from the city’s Memorial Park. Admission is free.

Bicycling Aside from the 4.3-mile loop trail around Monument Valley Park (see “Parks & Zoos,” under “Attractions,” above), there are numerous other urban trails for bikers. You can get information at the city’s Visitor Information Center (see “Visitor Information,” earlier in this chapter). For rentals ($30 per day), contact Colorado Springs West Bikes, 2403 W. Colorado Ave. ( 719/633-5565).

Fishing Most serious Colorado Springs anglers drive south 40 miles to the Arkansas River or west to the Rocky Mountain streams and lakes, such as those found in Eleven Mile State Park and Spinney Mountain State Park on the South Platte River west of Florissant. Bass, catfish, walleye pike, and panfish are found in the streams of eastern Colorado; trout is the preferred sport fish of the mountain regions.

Angler’s Covey, 295 S. 21st St. ( 800/75-FISHN [753-4746] or 719/471-2984; www.anglerscovey.com), is a specialty fly-fishing shop and a good source of general fishing information for southern Colorado. It offers guided half- and full-day trips ($295 for one person for a full day, or $345 for two; half-days are also available), as well as state fishing licenses, rentals, flies, tackle, and clinics.

Golf Public courses include the Patty Jewett Golf Course, 900 E. Española St. ( 719/385-6950); and Valley Hi Golf Course, 610 S. Chelton Rd. ( 719/385-6917; www.valleyhigolfcourse.com). Nonresident greens fees range from $28 to $30 for 18 holes (not including a cart). Pine Creek Golf Club, 9850 Divot Trail ( 719/594-9999; www.pinecreekgc.com), is another public course, with greens fees of $34 to $44.

The finest golf courses in the Colorado Springs area are private. Guests of the Broadmoor hotel can play the 54-hole Broadmoor Golf Club ( 719/577-5790), and guests at Cheyenne Mountain Resort can play its resident Pete Dye course ( 719/538-4000).

Hiking Opportunities abound in municipal parks (see “Parks & Zoos,” under “Attractions,” above) and Pike National Forest, which borders Colorado Springs to the west. The U.S. Forest Service district office can provide maps and general information (see address and phone number in the introduction to this section).

Impressions

Could one live in constant view of these grand mountains without being elevated by them into a lofty plane of thought and purpose?

—Gen. William J. Palmer, founder of Colorado Springs, 1871

Especially popular are the 7.5-mile Waldo Canyon Trail, with its trail head just east of Cascade Avenue off U.S. 24; the 6-mile Mount Manitou Trail, starting in Ruxton Canyon above the hydroelectric plant; and the 12-mile Barr Trail to the summit of Pikes Peak. (The latter’s first stretch, the Manitou Incline, gains about 2,100 ft. over the first mile.) There are 13 miles of trails in the new Red Rock Canyon Open Space, just south of U.S. 24 and west of Manitou Springs. Mueller State Park ( 719/687-2366), 3 1/2 miles south of Divide en route to Cripple Creek, has 50 miles of trails. See “Parks & Zoos” under “Attractions,” above.

Horseback Riding You’ll find good opportunities at city parks, including Garden of the Gods, North Cheyenne Cañon Park, and Palmer Park, plus Mueller State Park (see “Attractions,” earlier in this chapter). The Academy Riding Stables, 4 El Paso Blvd., near the Garden of the Gods ( 888/700-0410 or 719/633-5667; www.academyridingstables.com), offers guided trail rides for children and adults by reservation ($41 for 1 hr., $58 for 2 hr.).

Ice-Skating The Mark “Pa” Sertich Ice Center at Memorial Park ( 719/385-5983) is open daily and offers prearranged instruction and rentals. (Admission is $5–$6; skate rentals are $3.) The U.S. Olympic Complex operates the Colorado Springs World Arena Ice Hall, 3185 Venetucci Blvd. ( 719/477-2150; www.worldarena.com), with public sessions daily. Admission is $1 to $4; skate rentals are $2. If you have hockey equipment, you can join a pickup game ($7); call for times. To get there, take I-25, exit 138, go west on Circle Drive to Venetucci Boulevard, and go south to the arena.

Mountain Biking There are abundant mountain-biking opportunities in the Colorado Springs area; contact the U.S. Forest Service for details (see address and phone number in the introduction to the section). From May to early October, Challenge Unlimited, 204 S. 24th St. ( 800/798-5954 or 719/633-6399; www.bikithikit.com), hosts fully equipped, guided rides for every level of experience. Your guide on the 19-mile ride down the Pikes Peak Highway, from the summit at 14,110 feet to the tollgate at 7,000 feet, presents an interpretation of the nature, history, and beauty of the mountain. Participants must be at least 10 years old; advance reservations are recommended. Rates are $45 to $135 per person. For rentals ($40 per day), contact Colorado Springs West Bikes, 2403 W. Colorado Ave. ( 719/633-5565).

River Rafting Colorado Springs is 40 miles from the Arkansas River near Cañon City. Several licensed white-water outfitters tackle the Royal Gorge. Echo Canyon River Expeditions, 45000 U.S. 50 W., Cañon City, CO 81212 ( 800/755-3246 or 719/275-3154; www.raftecho.com), offers half-day to 3-day trips on “mild to wild” stretches of river. The company uses state-of-the-art equipment, including self-bailing rafts. Costs range from $49 (half-day, adult) to $899 for a 6-day expedition. Arkansas River Tours, P.O. Box 337, Cotopaxi, CO 81223 ( 800/321-4352 or 719/942-4362; www.arkansasrivertours.com), offers white-water trips of lengths from a quarter of a day to a full day for $32 to $110, and 3-day trips for $259 to $395.

Skiing & Snowboarding The closest downhill slopes are at Monarch Mountain ( 888/996-7669 or 719/530-5000; www.skimonarch.com), about 120 miles southwest near Salida off U.S. 50. The 800-acre resort is friendly and a good place for beginners, but it has enough steep runs—and good enough snow, some of the best in the state—to make it fun for everybody. The 63 trails break down 14% beginner, 28% intermediate, and 58% advanced/expert. Lift tickets cost $54 for adults; children 6 and under and seniors 69 and over ski free.

Swimming & Tennis Many city parks have pool or lake swimming, for which they charge a small fee, and free tennis courts, although budget cuts in 2010 took their toll and shuttered several facilities. Contact the Colorado Springs Parks and Recreation Department ( 719/385-5940) for current locations and hours.

Spectator Sports

The Air Force Academy Falcons football team dominates the sports scene, and there are also competitive baseball, basketball, ice hockey, and soccer teams. Call for schedules and ticket information ( 800/666-USAF [8723] or 719/472-1895; www.goairforcefalcons.com).

Auto Racing The Pikes Peak International Hill Climb ( 866/464-2626 for tickets, or 719/685-4400; www.usaracing.com/ppihc), known as the “Race to the Clouds,” takes place annually in late June or early July. An international field of drivers negotiates the hairpin turns of the final 12 miles of the Pikes Peak Highway to the top of the 14,110-foot mountain. On the way up, there are 156 turns, 2,000-foot cliffs, and no guardrails.

Baseball The Colorado Springs Sky Sox, of the Pacific Coast League, the AAA farm team for the Colorado Rockies of Denver, play a full 144-game season, with 72 home games at Security Service Field, 4385 Tutt Blvd., off Barnes Road east of Powers Boulevard ( 719/591-7699 for tickets, or 719/597-1449; www.skysox.com). The season runs from April to Labor Day. Tickets cost $7 to $12.

Hockey In addition to Air Force Academy hockey (see above), the World Arena, 3185 Venetucci Blvd. ( 719/477-2100; www.worldarena.com), is home to the perennial power Colorado College Tigers ( 719/389-6324; www.cctigers.com). Single-game tickets run $9 to $35.

Rodeo Held annually since 1941, the Pikes Peak or Bust Rodeo ( 719/635-3547; www.coloradospringsrodeo.com), which takes place in mid-July, is a major stop on the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association circuit. Its purse of about $100,000 makes it the second-largest rodeo in Colorado, after Denver’s National Western Stock Show. It takes place at the Norris-Penrose Events Center, 945 W. Rio Grande St., and tickets run $5 to $25. Various events around the city, including a parade and a street breakfast, mark the rodeo.

Shopping

Five principal areas attract shoppers in Colorado Springs. The Manitou Springs and Old Colorado City neighborhoods are fun places to browse for art, jewelry, arts and crafts, books, antiques, and other specialty items. The Chapel Hills and Citadel malls combine major department stores with a variety of national chain outlets. Downtown Colorado Springs also has numerous shops.

Mall lovers have their pick of Chapel Hills Mall, 1710 Briargate Blvd. at North Academy Boulevard and I-25 ( 719/594-0110; www.chapelhillsmall.com); the Citadel, 750 Citadel Dr. E. at North Academy Boulevard and East Platte Avenue ( 719/591-5516; www.shopthecitadel.com); and the Promenade Shops at Briargate, 1885 Briargate Pkwy. ( 719/265-6264; www.thepromenadeshopsatbriargate.com).

Shopping A to Z

Antiques

Antique Emporium at Manitou Springs The shop’s 4,000-square-foot floor space provides ample room for displaying its collection of antique furniture, china, glassware, books, collectibles, and primitives. 719 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-9195.

Colorado Country Antique Mall This well-established multidealer mall, covering some 10,000 square feet, is filled with a wide variety of antiques and collectibles, including a good selection of lower-priced items. 2109 Broadway St. 719/520-5680.

Art Galleries

Business of Art Center Primarily an educational facility to help artists learn the business end of their profession, the center also has workshops, classes, and lectures, plus numerous artists’ studios (open for viewing), six exhibition galleries, and a gift shop. Featured are renowned Colorado artists and juried exhibits of regional art. The shop offers a varied selection of regional artwork, including prints, photographs, jewelry, sculpture, ceramics, wearable art, handblown glass, and carved-wood objects. Theater, music, and dance performances are occasionally staged. 513 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-1861. www.thebac.org.

Commonwheel Artists Co-op Original art and fine crafts by area artists fill this excellent gallery, where you’ll find a good selection of paintings, photography, sculpture, jewelry, textiles, and other items. 102 Cañon Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-1008. www.commonwheel.com.

Flute Player Gallery This gallery offers contemporary and traditional American Indian silver and turquoise jewelry, Pueblo pottery, Navajo weavings, and Hopi kachina dolls. 2511 W. Colorado Ave., Old Colorado City. 719/632-7702.

Michael Garman’s Gallery A showcase for Garman’s sculptures and casts depicting urban and Western life, this gallery also holds “Magic Town,” a large model of an old-time inner city, with sculptures and holographic actors. Admission to Magic Town is $7 for adults, $5 for seniors, $3 for children 7 to 12, and free for children 6 and under. Ask about the scavenger hunts and scour the town for everything on your list to win a prize. 2418 W. Colorado Ave., Old Colorado City. 800/731-3908 or 719/471-9391. www.michaelgarman.com.

Smokebrush Gallery This nonprofit gallery and arts organization exhibits contemporary art of all kinds, with a focus on Colorado artists. There are also regular performances and special events. 218 W. Colorado Ave. 719/444-1012. www.smokebrush.org.

Books

There are numerous chain bookstores around the city, including Barnes & Noble, 795 Citadel Dr. E., just east of the Citadel Mall ( 719/637-8282).

Book Sleuth For all your mystery needs, visit this bookstore. In addition to a wide selection of mystery novels (including a good stock of out-of-print books), the shop offers numerous puzzles and games. 2501 W. Colorado Ave., #105, Old Colorado City. 719/632-2727. www.booksleuthmysteries.com.

Crafts

Van Briggle Pottery & Tile Founded in 1899 by Artus Van Briggle, who applied Chinese matte glaze to Rocky Mountain clays molded into imaginative Art Nouveau shapes, this is one of the oldest active art potteries in the United States (although it moved to a new location in 2009). Artisans demonstrate their craft, from throwing on the wheel to glazing and firing. Free tours are available, and finished works are sold in the showroom. 1024 S. Tejon St. 719/633-7729. www.vanbriggle.com.

Jewelry

Manitou Jack’s Jewelry & Gifts Black Hills gold, 10- and 14-karat, is the specialty here. There’s also an extensive collection of American Indian jewelry, pottery, sand paintings, and other art. The shop will create custom jewelry and make repairs. 814 Manitou Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-5004.

Velez Galleries This store in Old Colorado City sells the work of indigenous jewelers from the Southwest and Mexico, as well as artworks in many mediums. 2508 W. Colorado Ave., Old Colorado City. 719/630-3710. www.velezgalleries.com.

Sporting Goods

In business since 1968, the independent Mountain Chalet, 226 N. Tejon St. ( 719/633-0732; www.mtnchalet.com), sells camping gear, outdoor clothing, hiking and climbing gear, and winter sports equipment. Another good source for all sorts of outdoor clothing and equipment is Sports Authority, with stores at 7730 N. Academy Blvd. ( 719/532-1020) and 1409 N. Academy Blvd. ( 719/574-1400).

Western Wear

Lorig’s Western Wear ★ This Colorado Springs institution is where real cowboys get their hats, boots, jeans, and those fancy belts with the big buckles. 15 N. Union Blvd. 719/633-4695. www.lorigscolorado.com.

Wine & Liquor

Cheers Liquor Mart This 35,000-square-foot liquor supermarket has a huge selection of beer and wine, including Colorado wines, at good prices. 1105 N. Circle Dr. 719/574-2244. www.cheersliquormart.com.

The Wines of Colorado This tasting room and sales outlet offers the greatest number of Colorado wines available for tasting under one roof. There are also gift items, and the restaurant offers a grill menu. 8045 W. U.S. 24, Cascade (about 10 miles west of Colorado Springs). 719/684-0900. www.winesofcolorado.com.

Colorado Springs After Dark

The Colorado Springs entertainment scene spreads throughout the metropolitan area. Pikes Peak Center, the Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center, City Auditorium, Colorado College, and various facilities at the U.S. Air Force Academy are all outstanding venues for the performing arts. The city also supports dozens of cinemas, nightclubs, bars, and other after-dark attractions. Downtown is the major nightlife hub, but Old Colorado City and Manitou Springs also have their fair share of interesting establishments.

Weekly entertainment schedules appear in the Friday Gazette. Also look at the listings in the Independent, free entertainment tabloids. A good online resource for information on events and nightlife is www.peakradar.com.

Tickets for many major entertainment and sporting events can be obtained from Ticketmaster ( 719/520-9090; www.ticketmaster.com).

The Club & Music Scene

Black Sheep A good bet for punk and indie rock, the Black Sheep features graffiti art on the walls and an edgy vibe throughout. 2106 E. Platte Ave. 719/227-7625. www.blacksheeprocks.com.

Cowboys Two-steppers and country-and-western music lovers flock to this east-side club, which boasts the largest dance floor in the area. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday, and dance lessons are available. 25 N. Tejon St. 719/596-1212. www.worldfamouscowboys.com.

Poor Richard’s Restaurant An eclectic variety of performers appear at this bohemian landmark 1 or 2 nights a week, presenting everything from acoustic folk to Celtic melodies to jazz to bluegrass. The menu includes pizza, sandwiches, and the Springs’ best nachos (blue corn chips and mozzarella), as well as beer and wine. Adjacent are Poor Richard’s Bookstore and Little Richard’s Toy Store, all owned by local politico Richard Skorman. 324 1/2 N. Tejon St. 719/632-7721. www.poorrichards.biz.

Rum Bay Located in the renovated Woolworth Building downtown, the lively Rum Bay is a massive nightclub sporting a wall full of rum bottles and a tropical theme. Disc jockeys spin records for two dance floors; there’s also a piano bar featuring dueling players. The entire block contains a number of additional bars under the same management, ranging from Cowboys (see above), to “the world’s smallest bar,” to Rum Bay–like clubs focusing on tequila and bourbon. 20 N. Tejon St. 719/520-0900.

The Bar Scene

Bijou Bar and Grill Southern Colorado’s longest-standing gay and lesbian bar, the Bijou Bar has a Mexican menu, regular drink specials, Wednesday karaoke nights, and DJs spinning dance music on Fridays and Saturdays. 2510 E. Bijou Ave. 719/473-5718.

15C An unmarked speak-easy-style joint with an alley entrance, 15C is a slick martini-and-cigar bar with an upscale ambience accented by dim lighting and leather couches. Located just off Bijou St. in the alley btw. Cascade Ave. and Tejon St. 719/635-8303.

Golden Bee An opulent 19th-century English pub was disassembled, shipped from Great Britain, and reassembled piece by piece to create this delightful drinking establishment. You can have imported English ale by the yard or half-yard while enjoying steak-and-potato pie, Devonshire cheddar-cheese soup, sandwiches, or other British specialties. Evenings bring a ragtime pianist to enliven the atmosphere; interested guests are given songbooks for singalongs. Lower-level entrance of the Broadmoor International Center, Lake Circle. 719/634-7711.

Meadow Muffins A boisterous barroom packed to the gills with movie memorabilia and assorted knickknacks, Meadow Muffins certainly doesn’t lack personality. It features DJs or live music several nights a week. The food is standard bar fare, but the burgers are great. On most days, there are several specials, with happy hour from 4 to 7pm daily (until closing on Fri). There are pool tables, a pair of big-screen TVs, and arcade games. See also the restaurant listing. 2432 W. Colorado Ave., in Old Colorado City. 719/633-0583.

Oscar’s Featuring aquariums above the bar, this downtown hangout shucks more oysters than anyplace in the Springs, including the Broadmoor’s eateries. The menu here is Cajun, the crowd eclectic, the music tending toward jazz and blues. 333 S. Tejon St. 719/471-8070. www.oscarstejonstreet.com.

Phantom Canyon Brewing Co. This popular brewpub generally offers 8 to 10 of its specialty beers, including homemade root beer. The beers are unfiltered and unpasteurized, served at the traditional temperature for the style. I recommend Railyard Ale, a light amber ale with a smooth, malty taste; Hefeweizen, a traditional German wheat beer; and a very hoppy India pale ale. A billiard hall is on the second floor. See also the restaurant listing. 2 E. Pikes Peak Ave. 719/635-2800.

Ritz Grill Especially popular with young professionals after work and the chic clique later in the evening, this noisy restaurant-lounge, known for its martinis and large central bar, brings an Art Deco feel to downtown Colorado Springs. There’s live music (usually rock) starting at 9pm Thursday through Saturday. See also the restaurant listing. 15 S. Tejon St. 719/635-8484.

Tony’s Laden with plenty of brick and Green Bay Packers memorabilia, this neighborhood bar just north of Acacia Park has a laid-back vibe, Wisconsin roots, and the best fried cheese curds in the state. 311 N. Tejon St. 719/228-6566. www.tonysdowntownbar.com.

The Underground This popular gay hangout attracts a crowd to dance, play poker, or hit special events. 110 N. Nevada Ave. 719/578-7771. www.undergrounbdbars.com.

The Performing Arts

Among the major venues for performing arts is the 8,000-seat Colorado Springs World Arena, 3185 Venetucci Blvd., at I-25, exit 138 ( 719/477-2100; www.worldarena.com). The area’s newest entertainment center, it presents big-name country and rock concerts and a wide variety of sporting events.

Other major facilities include the handsome Pikes Peak Center, 190 S. Cascade Ave. ( 719/520-7469 for the ticket office, or 719/477-2100; www.pikespeakcenter.org), a 2,000-seat concert hall in the heart of downtown that has been acclaimed for its outstanding acoustics. The city’s symphony orchestra and dance theater call the Pikes Peak Center home, and top-flight touring entertainers, Broadway musicals, and symphony orchestras appear here as well.

The Colorado Springs Fine Arts Center, 30 W. Dale St. ( 719/634-5581 for general information, or 719/634-5583 for the box office; www.csfineartscenter.org), is a historic facility (see “Museums & Galleries” under “Attractions,” earlier in this chapter) that includes a children’s theater program, a repertory theater company, dance programs and concerts, and classic films. Recent productions have included The Producers and An Ideal Husband. At the historic City Auditorium, 221 E. Kiowa St. ( 719/385-5969; www.springsgov.com, follow links), you can often attend a trade show or big-name concert—Willie Nelson has performed here—or drop in at the Lon Chaney Theatre for a dramatic production. There are also several active performing-arts venues on the campus of Colorado College ( 719/389-6606; www.coloradocollege.edu) in Armstrong Hall and other buildings.

Symphony, Theater & Dance

Colorado Springs Dance Theatre This nonprofit organization presents international dance companies from September to May at Pikes Peak Center, Colorado College’s Armstrong Hall, and other venues. Notable productions have included Mikhail Baryshnikov, Alvin Ailey Repertory Ensemble, Ballet Folklorico of Mexico, and other traditional, modern, ethnic, and jazz dance programs. Each year, three to five performances are scheduled, and master classes, lectures, and other programs often coincide with the performances. Tickets typically run $20 to $40. P.O. Box 877, Colorado Springs, CO 80901. 719/630-7434. www.csdance.org.

Colorado Springs Philharmonic The local philharmonic orchestra’s schedule is anchored by seven performances at the Pikes Peak Center (see above), but it performs at a wide variety of events and venues throughout the year. Tickets typically run $20 to $40. 111 S. Tejon St., Ste. 102. 719/575-9632. www.csphilharmonic.org.

Star Bar Players Each year, this resident theater company presents several full-length plays, ranging from Greek comedies to modern murder mysteries. Recent productions have included Frankie and Johnny in the Clair de Lune and Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? Tickets are typically $10 to $15. Lon Chaney Theater, 221 E. Kiowa St. 719/573-7411. www.starbarplayers.org.

Dinner Theaters

Flying W Ranch ★ This working cattle and horse ranch, just north of the Garden of the Gods, encompasses a Western village of more than a dozen restored buildings and a mine train. There are also demonstrations of Navajo weaving and horseshoeing. A Western stage show features bunkhouse comedy, cowboy balladry, and foot-stompin’ fiddle, mandolin, and guitar music. From mid-May to September the town opens each afternoon at 5pm (Thurs–Sun in Sept); a chuck-wagon dinner (barbecued beef or chicken, potatoes, beans, biscuits, and cake) is served ranch-style at 7pm, and the show begins at 8pm. The winter steakhouse is open October to December and March to May on Friday and Saturday, with seatings at 5 and 8pm and a Western stage show at each seating.

3330 Chuckwagon Rd. 800/232-FLYW [3599] or 719/598-4000. www.flyingw.com. Reservations recommended. Chuck-wagon dinners $22 adults, $12 children 6–12; winter steakhouse $25–$28 adults, $13 children 8 and under.

Iron Springs Chateau Melodrama ★ Located near the foot of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, this popular comedy and drama dinner theater urges patrons to boo the villain and cheer the hero. Past productions have included Farther North to Laughter or Buck of the Yukon, Part Two, and When the Halibut Start Running or Don’t Slam the Door on Davy Jones’ Locker. A family-style dinner, with free seconds, includes oven-baked chicken and barbecued beef brisket, mashed potatoes, green beans amandine, pineapple coleslaw, and buttermilk biscuits. A singalong and a vaudeville-style olio show follow the performance. Iron Springs Chateau is open from April to mid-October and in December. Dinner is served on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday between 6 and 6:45pm; the show follows at 8pm.

444 Ruxton Ave., Manitou Springs. 719/685-5104 or 719/685-5572. Reservations required. Dinner and show $30 adults, $28 seniors, $17 children; show only $16 adults, $15 seniors, $10 children.

Side Trips from Colorado Springs

Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument ★★

Approximately 35 miles west of Colorado Springs on U.S. 24 is the small village of Florissant, which means “flowering” in French. It couldn’t be more aptly named—every spring its hillsides virtually blaze with wildflowers. Just 2 miles south is one of the most spectacular, yet relatively unknown, fossil deposits in the world, Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument. From Florissant, follow the signs along Teller County Road 1.

The fossils in this 6,000-acre National Park Service property are preserved in the rocks of ancient Lake Florissant, which existed 34 million years ago. Volcanic eruptions spanning half a million years trapped plants and animals under layers of ash and dust; the creatures were fossilized as the sediment settled and became shale.

The detailed impressions, first discovered in 1873, offer the most extensive record of its kind in the world. Scientists have removed thousands of specimens, including 1,100 separate species of insects. Dragonflies, beetles, and ants; more fossil butterflies than anywhere else in the world; plus spiders, fish, some mammals, and birds are all perfectly preserved from 34 to 35 million years ago. Leaves from willows, maples, and hickories; extinct relatives of birches, elms, and beeches; and needles of pines and sequoias are also plentiful. These fossil plants, markedly different from those living in the area today, show how the climate has changed over the centuries.

Mudflows also buried forests during this long period, petrifying the trees where they stood. Nature trails pass petrified tree stumps; one sequoia stump is 10 feet in diameter and 11 feet high. There’s a display of carbonized fossils at the visitor center, which also offers interpretive programs. An added attraction within the monument is the homestead of Adeline Hornbek, who pioneered the area with her children in 1878. The national monument also has over 14 miles of hiking trails.

Nearby, about 1⁄2 mile north of the monument, there’s superb fishing for German browns and cutthroats at Spinney Mountain Reservoir.

Admission to the monument is $3 per adult for a week and free for children 14 and under, making a visit here an incredibly affordable outing. It’s open from 8am to 6pm daily in summer and 9am to 5pm daily the rest of the year (closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25). Contact Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, P.O. Box 185, Florissant, CO 80816 ( 719/748-3253; www.nps.gov/flfo).

Cripple Creek

This old mining town on the southwestern flank of Pikes Peak was known as the world’s greatest gold camp after the precious metal was first discovered here in 1890. During its heyday at the beginning of the 20th century, Cripple Creek (elevation 9,494 ft.) had a stock exchange, two opera houses, five daily newspapers, 16 churches, 19 schools, and 73 saloons, plus an elaborate streetcar system and a railroad depot that saw 18 arrivals and departures a day. By the time mining ceased in 1961, more than $800 million worth of ore had been taken from the surrounding hills.

Today Cripple Creek has several dozen limited-stakes gambling casinos, most lining Bennett Avenue. They cash in not only on the lure of gambling but on the nostalgia for the gambling houses that were once prominent throughout the Old West. Although gamblers must be at least 21 years old, some casinos offer special children’s areas, along with other family activities.

One of the town’s unique attractions is a herd of wild donkeys, descendants of the miners’ runaways, that roam freely through the hills and into the streets. The year’s biggest celebration, Donkey Derby Days in late June, culminates with a donkey race.

Although gambling takes place year-round, many of the historic attractions are open in summer only or have limited winter hours. Among those you’ll want to check out is the 1891 Mollie Kathleen Gold Mine, 1 mile north of Cripple Creek on Colo. 67 ( 719/689-2466; www.goldminetours.com). It offers visitors a rare chance to join hard-rock miners on a 1,050-foot underground descent into a genuine gold mine and take home a gold-ore specimen as a souvenir. Tours last about 40 minutes; temperatures in the mine are 45°F to 50°F (7°C–10°C), and jackets are provided. Admission is $15 for adults, $10 for children 3 through 12, and free for children 2 and under. The mine is open from early April to mid-September daily from 9am to 5pm with shorter hours the rest of the year (call ahead).

The Cripple Creek District Museum, at the east end of Bennett Avenue ( 719/689-2634; www.cripple-creek.org), includes three historic buildings packed with late-19th-century relics, including mining and railroad memorabilia. There’s a gold-ore exhibit, Victorian fashions and furniture, exhibits on local wildlife, historical photos, a fully restored Victorian-era flat, and an assay office where fire-testing of local ores took place. The museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm Memorial Day through September, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm the rest of the year. Admission is $5 adults, $3 seniors, and $2.50 for children 12 and under. There is another museum, the Old Homestead Museum, covering the world’s oldest profession in a family-friendly tour for $4 adults and $3 kids and seniors.

The Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad Co. ★★, at the Midland Terminal Depot, east end of Bennett Avenue at 5th Street ( 719/689-2640; www.cripplecreekrailroad.com), takes visitors on a 4-mile narrated tour. The route runs past abandoned mines and over a reconstructed trestle to the ghost town of Anaconda, powered by a 15-ton “iron horse” steam locomotive. The train operates daily from mid-May to mid-October. The first train leaves the station at 10am and subsequent trains leave about every 40 minutes, until 5pm. Tickets are $12 for adults, $11 for seniors, $8 for children 3 to 12, and free for kids 2 and under.

Cripple Creek is 45 miles west of Colorado Springs; take U.S. 24 west and Colo. 67 south. For additional information, contact the Cripple Creek Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 430, Cripple Creek, CO 80813 ( 877/858-4653 or 719/689-3461; www.cripple-creek.co.us).

Nearby Scenic Drives

When you leave Cripple Creek, two drives of particular beauty offer alternatives to Colo. 67. Neither is paved and both are narrow and winding, but both are usually acceptable for everyday vehicles under dry conditions. Each is roughly 30 miles long but requires about 90 minutes to negotiate. First, take Colo. 67 south out of Cripple Creek for 6 miles to the historic mining town of Victor, a delightful, picturesque destination.

The Gold Camp Road leads east from Victor to Colorado Springs via the North Cheyenne Cañon. Theodore Roosevelt said that this trip up the old Short Line Railroad bed had “scenery that bankrupts the English language.” The Phantom Canyon Road leads south from Victor to Florence, following another old narrow-gauge railroad bed known as the Gold Belt Line. A number of ghost towns and fossil areas mark this route.

A Side Trip to Royal Gorge

From Colorado Springs, the breathtaking Royal Gorge and Royal Gorge Bridge and Park and the historic town of Cañon City make an easy day trip. The Royal Gorge, one of the most impressive natural attractions in the state, lies 8 miles west of Cañon City off U.S. 50, at the head of the Arkansas River valley. From the Springs, head southwest on Colo. 115 for about 33 miles, turn west for about 12 miles on U.S. 50 to Cañon City (about 45 miles altogether), and then go south to the Royal Gorge.

This narrow canyon, 1,053 feet deep, was cut through solid granite by 3 million years of water and wind erosion. When Zebulon Pike saw the gorge in 1806, he predicted that man would never conquer it. But by 1877 the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad had laid a route through the canyon, and it soon became a major tourist attraction.

The gorge is spanned by what is said to be the world’s highest suspension bridge and an aerial tramway, built for no other reason than to thrill tourists. The 1⁄4-mile-long bridge was constructed in 1929, suspended from two 300-ton cables, and reinforced in 1983. An incline railway, believed to be the world’s steepest, was completed in 1931; it plunges from the rim of the gorge 1,550 feet to the floor at a 45-degree angle, giving passengers the view from the bottom as well as from the top. The 35-passenger tram, added in 1968, provides views of the gorge and the bridge from a height of 1,178 feet above the Arkansas River.

Owned by Cañon City, Royal Gorge Bridge and Park also holds a 260-seat multimedia theater (where visitors can see a video presentation on the area’s history and construction of the bridge), miniature railway, trolley, old-fashioned carousel, various thrill rides and children’s attractions, restaurants, gift shops, a petting zoo with free burro rides, and herds of tame mule deer. Live entertainment and a variety of special events take place throughout the year.

The bridge is open year-round, daily from 7 or 8am to dusk; the rest of the park is open daily late April through October from 10am until 5 to 7pm and daily 10am to 4pm the rest of the year. Admission—$25 for adults, $21 for seniors, $19 for children 4 to 11, free for children 3 and under—includes crossing the bridge and all other park rides and attractions. For information, contact Royal Gorge Bridge & Park, P.O. Box 549, Cañon City, CO 81215 ( 888/333-5597 or 719/275-7507; www.royalgorgebridge.com).

An interesting way to view the canyon is from the Royal Gorge Route Railroad, 401 Water St. (south of U.S. 50 on 3rd St.), Cañon City, CO 81212 ( 888/724-5748 or 303/569-1000; www.royalgorgeroute.com). The train takes passengers on a 2-hour, 24-mile trip through the canyon. From early May to early October, the train departs daily at 9:30am and 12:30pm; there are also 3:30pm departures in summer and 7pm dinner rides on select evenings. Coach tickets cost $33 for adults, $22 for children 3 to 12, and are free for children 2 and under who sit on a guardian’s lap. Reservations are recommended. Observation-dome tickets are $25 more and dinner rides are $79 a person ($109 in the observation dome).

To see this beautiful gorge from the river while also enjoying some thrills, consider a raft trip. Rates for adults run about $80 to $125 for a full-day trip, including lunch; a half-day trip is about $50 to $65. Most Royal Gorge raft trips include rough white-water stretches of the river; those preferring calmer sections should inquire with local rafting companies. Major outfitters include Arkansas River Tours ( 800/321-4352 or 719/942-4362; www.arkansasrivertours.com), Echo Canyon River Expeditions ( 800/755-3246; www.raftecho.com), and Wilderness Aware Rafting ( 800/462-7238 or 719/395-2112; www.inaraft.com). See also “River Rafting,” under “Outdoor Activities,” earlier in this chapter.

Other Area Attractions

Cañon City was a popular film setting during the industry’s early days, and it was a special favorite of silent screen actor Tom Mix, who reputedly worked as a cowboy in the area before becoming a film star. The drowning death of a prominent actress temporarily discouraged film companies from coming here, but the area’s beautiful scenery and Old West heritage lured the industry back in the late 1950s, helped along by the creation of Buckskin Joe, a Western theme park and movie set where dozens of films have been shot, including How the West Was Won, True Grit, and Cat Ballou.

Although movies are rarely shot here nowadays, Buckskin Joe Frontier Town & Railway ( 719/275-5149; www.buckskinjoe.com), about 8 miles west of Cañon City on U.S. 50, remains a popular tourist attraction. The authentic-looking Old West town was created from genuine 19th-century buildings relocated from across the state. Visitors can watch gunfights, pan for gold, see a magic show, ride horseback (or in a horse-drawn trolley), and wander through a Western maze. The Scenic Railway ( 719/275-5485) offers a 30-minute trip through rugged Royal Gorge country, where you’re likely to see deer and other wildlife, to the rim of the Royal Gorge for a panoramic view of the canyon and bridge.

Frontier Town is open May through September and mid-October to Halloween as a dark attraction. Hours are 10am to 5pm daily in May, 9:30am to 6pm daily from June to August, and 10am to 5pm Thursday to Monday in September. The railway runs from March to December. Hours from mid-June to August are 9am to 7pm; it closes at 5pm at the beginning and end of the season. Combination admission tickets, which include the Scenic Railway, a horse-drawn trolley, and all the Frontier Town attractions and entertainment, are $20 for adults, $18 for children 4 to 11, and free for children 3 and under. Tickets for the railway are only $12 for adults and $11 for children; tickets for Frontier Town only are $15 for adults and $14 for children. Expect to spend 2 to 4 hours here.

Other Cañon City attractions include the Museum of Colorado Prisons ★, 201 N. 1st St. ( 719/269-3015; www.prisonmuseum.org), especially interesting for those with an appreciation of the macabre. Housed in the state’s former women’s prison, just outside the walls of the original territorial prison that opened in 1871, it contains an actual gas chamber, historical photos of life behind bars, weapons confiscated from inmates, the last hangman’s noose used legally in the state, a simulation of a lethal-injection system and of the “Old Gray Mare” (a cruel apparatus used to punish misbehaving prisoners), and other artifacts and exhibits. There’s also a gift shop selling arts and crafts made by inmates at a medium-security prison next door. The museum is open mid-May through Labor Day daily from 8:30am to 6pm; Labor Day through October 10am to 5pm daily; and the rest of the year Wednesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm. Admission is $7 for adults, $6 for seniors 65 and older, $5 for children 6 to 12, and free for children 5 and under. Allow about an hour.

Those interested in Colorado history might also enjoy stopping at the Royal Gorge Regional Museum and History Center, 612 Royal Gorge Blvd. ( 719/260-9036), which holds displays of American-Indian artifacts, guns, gems, minerals, wild-game trophies, historical photos, old dolls, pioneer household items, and other memorabilia. These are pretty much the kinds of things you’ll find in most small-town museums in the American West, but what sets this museum apart somewhat are several renovated and authentically furnished buildings out back. Here is the 1860 log cabin built by Anson Rudd, local blacksmith and first warden of the Colorado Territorial Prison. The museum is typically open from 10am to 4pm Monday through Saturday. It’s closed December 24 plus all state and federal holidays. Admission is free. Allow a half-hour.

Another local attraction, especially fascinating for young would-be dinosaur hunters, is Dinosaur Depot ★, 330 Royal Gorge Blvd. ( 800/987-6379 or 719/269-7150; www.dinosaurdepot.com). The depot’s main claim to fame is the dinosaur lab, where paleontologists are working to remove various dinosaur fossils from the rock that has encased them for the past 150 million years. There are also several interpretive exhibits, including fossilized bones that visitors can hold, a fossilized tree, a children’s Discovery Room with plenty of hands-on exhibits, and a gift shop. Dinosaur Depot also sells brochures for self-guided tours of the internationally renowned Garden Park Fossil Area just north of town, which is the source of many of the museum’s exhibits, and to see some 90-million-year-old dinosaur tracks nearby. The museum is open daily from 9am to 5pm late May to mid-August, shorter hours the rest of the year. Admission is $4 for adults, $2 for children 4 to 12, and free for children 3 and under. Allow 45 minutes at Dinosaur Depot, and another 1 to 2 hours at Garden Park Fossil Area.

Where to Stay & Dine

Cañon City has several midprice lodging options, including the Arkansas River Inn, 1925 Fremont Dr., Cañon City, CO 81212 ( 719/275-3377), with double rates ranging from $69 to $139 in summer. Another good option is Jewel of the Canyons B&B, 429 Greenwood Ave., Cañon City, CO 81212 ( 866/875-0378 or 719/275-0378; www.jewelofthecanyons.com), a nicely restored Queen Anne Victorian. Double rooms are $99 to $119, with full breakfast included.

Merlino’s Belvedere, 1330 Elm Ave. ( 719/275-5558; www.belvedererestaurant.com), is my pick for a meal, specializing in gourmet Italian cuisine, steaks, and seafood at lunch and dinner daily. Most dinner main courses run $15 to $25.

For more information on where to stay and eat and a walking tour of historic downtown Cañon City, as well as details on scenic drives and other attractions, contact the Cañon City Chamber of Commerce, 403 Royal Gorge Blvd., Cañon City, CO 81212 ( 800/876-7922 or 719/275-2331; www.canoncitychamber.com).

A Side Trip to Pueblo

Pueblo

Among Colorado’s most underrated cities, Pueblo is just 42 miles south of Colorado Springs via I-25. As you drive through, along the interstate, it might appear that this bland, industrial city—with its railroad tracks, warehouses, and factories—doesn’t warrant a stop. But don’t let your first impression fool you. Once you get off the highway you’ll discover the real Pueblo, with historic homes, fine Western art, a well-run zoo, a delightful riverfront park, and a number of outdoor recreational opportunities.

Although Zebulon Pike and his U.S. Army exploratory expedition camped at the future site of Pueblo in 1806, there were no white settlements here until 1842, when El Pueblo Fort was constructed as a fur-trading outpost. It was abandoned following a Ute massacre in late 1854, but when the Colorado gold rush began 5 years later, the town of Pueblo was born on the site of the former fort.

In the early 20th century, the city grew as a major center for coal mining and steel production. Job opportunities attracted large numbers of immigrants, especially from Mexico and Eastern Europe. Pueblo today is home to high-tech industries as well as the University of Southern Colorado. As the largest city (pop. a bit over 100,000) in southeastern Colorado, it is the market center for a 15-county region extending to the borders of New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Kansas. Elevation is 4,695 feet.

Essentials

Getting There

By Car I-25 links Pueblo directly with Colorado Springs, Denver, and points north; and Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and other New Mexico cities to the south. U.S. 50 runs east to La Junta and west to Cañon City, Gunnison, and Montrose.

By Plane Pueblo Memorial Airport, 31201 Bryan Circle, Keeler Parkway off U.S. 50 E. ( 719/553-2760; www.pueblo.us), is served by Great Lakes Airlines ( 800/554-5111; www.greatlakesav.com) with daily flights to Denver as a United partner. Agencies providing rental cars at the airport include Avis, Enterprise, and Hertz. For a list of car-rental agency websites, please see “Airline & Car-Rental Websites.”

Visitor Information

Contact the Greater Pueblo Chamber of Commerce, 302 N. Santa Fe Ave. (P.O. Box 697), Pueblo, CO 81003 ( 800/233-3446 or 719/542-1704; www.pueblochamber.org and www.destinationpueblo.com), for most travel-related needs. Information and brochures are available at the chamber office, which is open year-round Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Getting Around

Pueblo lies on the eastward-flowing Arkansas River, at its confluence with Fountain Creek. The downtown core is located north of the Arkansas and west of the Fountain, immediately west of I-25. Santa Fe Avenue and Main Street, 1 block west, are the principal north-south thoroughfares; the cross streets are numbered (counting northward), with Fourth and Eighth streets the most important. Pueblo Boulevard circles the city on the south and west, with spurs leading to the nature center and Lake Pueblo State Park.

Fast Facts

Medical services, including for emergencies, are provided by Parkview Medical Center, 400 W. 16th St. ( 719/584-4000; www.parkviewmc.com); and St. Mary-Corwin Medical Center, 1008 Minnequa Ave. ( 719/557-4000; www.stmarycorwin.org). The main post office is located at 1022 Fortino Blvd.; call the U.S. Postal Service ( 800/275-8777; www.usps.com) for hours and locations of other post offices.

What to See & Do

Historic Pueblo runs along Union Avenue north from the Arkansas River to First Street, a distance of about 5 blocks. More than 40 buildings in the Union Avenue Historic District are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, including the Vail Hotel (217 S. Grand Ave.), headquarters of the Pueblo County Historical Society museum and library ( 719/543-6772; www.pueblohistory.org), with railroad memorabilia, locally made saddles, and some 8,000 books, historical maps, and photographs depicting Pueblo’s history. Union Depot, with its mosaic-tile floors and beautiful stained-glass windows, houses retail stores and offices, yet still serves rail freight lines. Walking-tour maps can be obtained at the chamber (see “Visitor Information,” above), as well as from Union Avenue businesses.

El Pueblo History Museum ★★ This beautiful museum is a splendid introduction to the region. Located at the intersection of West First Street, Union Avenue, and Grand Avenue, the museum also serves as the Scenic Byways Visitor Center and as a gateway to the Arkansas Riverwalk (see “Outdoor Activities,” below) and the historic district.

Evocative of a mid-1800s trading post, the museum’s design replicates a square adobe building with a central plaza, reminiscent of Bent’s Old Fort. The museum showcases the traditions of the numerous cultural and ethnic groups in the area, utilizing maps and photos plus displays specific to each era. It begins with such items as beaded garments, pouches, American Indian baskets, and stonework; then it moves into the Spanish, French, and American exploration of the area, highlighting the fur traders and Bent’s Fort. The founding of the city through farming, ranching, and the early steel and mining industries is next, followed by early-20th-century labor issues.

The museum also explores the area’s continued industrial expansion, which brought a tremendous influx of immigrants, resulting in a rich cultural mix. Other exhibits explain how outdoor activities drew visitors to the area in the 20th century, and will likely tempt visitors outside to explore the Riverwalk. Allow at least 1 1/2 hours.

301 N. Union Ave. 719/583-0453. www.coloradohistory.org. Admission $4 adults; $3 seniors 65 and older, students with IDs, and children 6–12; free for children 5 and under; free for children 12 and under on Sat. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

Infozone News Museum Say whatever you want about this museum—one of its primary goals is to increase our knowledge and understanding of Americans’ rights to freedom of speech and freedom of the press. Located on the fourth floor of the public library, this state-of-the-art facility also provides a look at the history of Pueblo and its newspapers, and has hands-on activities that youths will especially enjoy. There’s a working Linotype typesetting machine to examine, as well as a 100-seat movie theater where a variety of films are shown. Interactive touch-screen computer kiosks turn visitors into reporters as they go on assignment, interview those close to the action, and then see the story in print. Allow 45 minutes.

Robert Hoag Rawlings Public Library, 100 E. Abriendo Ave. 719/562-5604. www.infozonenewsmuseum.com. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am–9pm; Fri–Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed major holidays.

The Nature and Raptor Center ★ A major recreation and education center, this area provides access to more than 36 miles of paved biking and hiking trails along the Arkansas River and around Lake Pueblo. There are also a 150-foot fishing dock, volleyball courts, horseshoe pits, an amphitheater, nature trails, picnic areas, and a large children’s playground. Boats and canoes can be put into the Arkansas River here. An interpretive center displays exhibits on the flora and fauna of the area, there are demonstration gardens along the river, and the Cafe del Rio serves southwestern dishes. At the Raptor Center, injured eagles, owls, and other birds of prey are nursed back to health and released into the wild. The center also houses several resident birds of prey. Allow at least an hour.

5200 Nature Center Rd., via W. 11th St. 719/549-2414. www.gncp.org. Free admission (donations welcome). On-site parking $3. Grounds open daily sunrise–sunset; Raptor Center Tues–Sun 11am–4pm; Interpretive Center and gift shop Tues–Sat 9am–5pm.

Pueblo Weisbrod Aircraft Museum The place to come to see some fascinating old airplanes, this museum has more than two dozen historic aircraft—World War II and postwar—on display, as well as numerous exhibits and photographs depicting the B-24 bomber and its role in World War II. It’s hard to miss the restored Boeing B-29 Superfortress, with its 141-foot wingspan, which dominates a large hangar. Also on display are a Douglas A-26 Invader, a Grumman F-9 Cougar, a Douglas C-47 Skytrain (or, as the GI’s dubbed it, a Gooney Bird), RA5C Vigilante, and a McDonnell Douglas F-101A Voodoo. There’s a well-stocked souvenir shop, offering hard-to-find military and general aviation-related items. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

31001 Magnuson Ave. 719/948-9219. www.pwam.org. Admission $7; free for children 9 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 1–4pm. At Pueblo Memorial Airport, 6 miles east of downtown via U.S. 50.

Pueblo Zoo More than 420 animals representing some 140 species live in this 25-acre zoo, listed on the National Register of Historic Places for several buildings and other structures (including a moat) that were constructed of native sandstone during the Depression by WPA workers. Attractions include a Northern River Otter exhibit, a tropical rainforest, and a black-footed penguin underwater exhibit. You’ll find all sorts of reptiles and insects in the herpetarium; kangaroos and emus in the Australia Station; an excellent African lion exhibit; and endangered species such as cotton-top tamarins, prehensile tail skinks, and maned wolves. You’ll also see zebras, Malayan sun bears, and white-handed gibbons. Kids in a participatory mood should flock to Pioneer Farm, where they can feed a variety of rare domesticated animals, and to the Discovery Room, which features hands-on exhibits for all ages. Stop by the Watering Hole snack bar or the Wild Things gift shop, which boasts a better-than-average selection of animal-related items. Allow 2 to 4 hours.

City Park, 3455 Nuckolls Ave. 719/561-1452. www.pueblozoo.org. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors 65 and older, $5 children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day Mon–Fri 9am–4pm, Sat–Sun 9am–5pm; rest of year Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm. Closed from noon on the day before Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s and all day on those 3 holidays.

Rosemount Museum ★ Were you a rich and sophisticated westerner in a previous life? Then you probably lived in an elegant home like this. Completed in 1893 for the pioneer Thatcher family, this 37-room mansion is one of the finest surviving examples of late-19th-century architecture and decoration in North America. The three-story, 24,000-square-foot home was built entirely of pink rhyolite stone. Inside you’ll find handsome oak, maple, and mahogany woodwork; remarkable works of stained glass; hand-decorated ceilings; exquisite Tiffany lighting fixtures; period furniture; and 10 fireplaces. Allow 1 hour for the guided tour.

419 W. 14th St. (at Grand Ave.). 719/545-5290. www.rosemount.org. Admission $6 adults, $5 seniors 60 and over, $4 children 6–18, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm (last tour begins at 3:30pm). Closed major holidays and Jan. Take the I-25 exit for 13th St.

Sangre de Cristo Arts & Conference Center ★ Pueblo’s cultural hub is a three-building complex that houses a 500-seat theater, two dance studios, four art galleries (including one with a fine collection of Western art), a gift shop, a restaurant, and the state-of-the-art Buell Children’s Museum, which covers 12,000 square feet with a wide variety of hands-on arts and science exhibits. The center also hosts concerts and other performing-arts events, including a children’s theater program (call for details). Allow 2 to 3 hours.

210 N. Santa Fe Ave. 719/295-7200. www.sdc-arts.org. $4 adults, $3 children 15 and under. Galleries and children’s museum Tues–Sat 11am–4pm; restaurant Tues–Sat 11am–2pm.

Southeastern Colorado Heritage Center Located across the street from the historic Union Depot train station, this facility includes exhibits on southeastern Colorado’s pioneer days, including a mid-1800s store and early communications equipment. There are also railroad exhibits, presented in cooperation with the Pueblo Railway Museum, which also maintains the outdoor exhibits of locomotives, passenger cars, and freight cars just west of the depot at 132 W. B Street (www.pueblorailway.org). Allow at least 1 hour for the museum and rail yard.

201 W. B St. 719/295-1517. www.theheritagecenter.us. $4 adults, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–4pm.

Steelworks Museum of Industry & Culture New in 2007, this facility focuses on the history and impact of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Corporation, which began in the 1870s to provide steel rails for the region’s railroads and grew to include mining and steel and iron production, and then merged with a fuel company. At one time it operated mines and quarries throughout the West, and the company was the single largest private landowner in Colorado.

Housed in a historic medical-dispensary building, the museum’s exhibits examine the history of mining and steel production, including the company’s sometimes-violent labor relations, plus railroading and general history of the area. Among the displays are a one-of-a-kind mine rescue rail car and exhibits on industrial medicine. There is also a gift shop. Allow 1 hour.

1612 E. Abriendo Ave. 719/564-9086. www.cfisteel.org. Admission $5 adults, $3 children 4–12, free for children 3 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–4pm.

Outdoor Activities

Pueblo’s mild climate makes it a popular destination for boating, fishing, and other outdoor recreation, with several major stops for the region’s outdoor enthusiasts.

Watersport aficionados are drawn to Lake Pueblo State Park ★ (also called Pueblo Reservoir), which has some 4,500 surface acres of water when filled to capacity and 60 miles of shoreline. The lake is popular among anglers trying for rainbow trout, brown trout, crappie, black bass, and channel catfish, and there’s a free fish-cleaning station.

It’s also a huge attraction for boaters, who come from all over southern Colorado, and the park offers swimming, hiking, and biking. The park’s North Shore Marina ( 719/547-3880; www.noshoremarina.com) provides a gas dock, boating and fishing supplies, groceries, and a restaurant. The South Marina ( 719/564-1043; www.thesouthshoremarina.com) provides the same services and also rents pontoon boats ($165–$185 for 4 hr. and $295–$340 for 9 hr., plus fuel), April through October.

The Rock Canyon Swim Beach, at the east end of the park, is open from Memorial Day to Labor Day 11am to 6pm but does not have lifeguards on duty.

The park has about 400 campsites, some with electric and water hookups. A dump station and showers are available, and camping rates are $14 to $18 May 1 through Labor Day, $16 to $20 the rest of the year. Camping reservations are available for an extra charge by calling 800/678-2267 or through the state parks website (see following paragraph). Day use costs $6 per vehicle, and campers must pay this in addition to camping fees.

From Pueblo, take U.S. 50 west for 4 miles, turn south onto Pueblo Boulevard and go another 4 miles to Thatcher Avenue, then turn west, and go 6 miles to the park. For information, contact the park office at 719/561-9320, or go to www.parks.state.co.us.

The Historic Arkansas Riverwalk of Pueblo ★★ is a beautifully landscaped waterfront park that covers some 26 acres and offers pedestrian and bike paths, benches, sculptures, gardens, and natural areas that provide good wildlife-viewing opportunities. Pedal-boat rentals are available from early April to late September on a small lake along the Riverwalk, weekends only in April and daily the rest of the season. Rates are $10 per half-hour. Excursion boat rides along the Arkansas take place on weekends in April, and operate daily from May to late September. Rates for the narrated 25-minute tours are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and members of the military, and $3 for children 3 to 12. Hours for both pedal-boat rentals and the excursion-boat rides vary throughout the season; call the boathouse ( 719/595-1589) for the schedule. The Riverwalk is located near the south end of the Union Avenue Historic District (see “What to See & Do,” above), and is easily accessed via Main Street. For information, contact Historic Arkansas Riverwalk of Pueblo, 200 W. First St., Suite 302, Pueblo, CO 81003 ( 719/595-0242; www.puebloharp.com).

Also while you’re in town, stop at City Park, northeast of the intersection of Pueblo Boulevard (Colo. 45) and Thatcher Avenue. Home to the Pueblo Zoo (see above), the park covers some 200 acres and offers two fishing lakes, tennis courts, a swimming pool (open in summer), and playgrounds. There’s also a beautiful hand-carved antique carousel, built in 1911, with music provided by a 1920 Wurlitzer Military Band Organ. The carousel is open evenings and Sunday afternoons in summer; the park is open daily year-round. For information, call the Pueblo Parks and Recreation Department ( 719/553-2790; www.pueblo.us).

There are plenty of opportunities for hiking, backpacking, mountain biking, fishing, and camping nearby in lands under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service. For information, contact the headquarters of the Pike and San Isabel National Forests and Comanche and Cimarron National Grasslands, 2840 Kachina Dr., Pueblo, CO 81008 ( 719/553-1400).

Local golf courses open to the public include Walking Stick, 1301 Walking Stick Blvd. ( 719/553-1180), at the northwest corner of the University of Southern Colorado. Rated among Colorado’s best courses and best values, this 18-hole course has a driving range and charges $30 to $32 for 18 holes and $12 for a cart. Other local courses include Elmwood at City Park, 3900 Thatcher Ave. ( 719/561-4946), with an 18-hole regulation course plus executive 9-hole course. Greens fees for 18 holes are $20 to $24, cart not included. Desert Hawk Golf Course at Pueblo West, 251 S. McCulloch Blvd. ( 719/547-2280), is an 18-hole regulation course with greens fees for 18 holes from $25 to $27, cart not included.

Spectator Sports

Motor Sports Stock-car races are held every Saturday evening from April to September at I-25 Speedway, off I-25 at exit 108 ( 303/798-4387; www.i25speedway.com). Nationally sanctioned drag racing, Sports Car Club of America road racing, and other motor sports take place at the Pueblo Motorsports Park, U.S. 50 and Pueblo Boulevard in Pueblo West ( 719/240-4132; www.pueblomotorsportspark.com), April through September.

Rodeo Those visiting Pueblo from late August to early September can take in the Colorado State Fair ( 800/876-4567 or 719/561-8484; www.coloradostatefair.com), which includes a professional rodeo, carnival rides, food booths, industrial displays, horse shows, animal exhibits, and household-name entertainers.

Where to Stay

There are numerous lodging possibilities in Pueblo, with many of the national chains represented. Rates are highest in summer, especially during the State Fair (late Aug to early Sept). Among the reliable major chains are the Best Western Eagle Ridge Inn & Suites, 4727 N. Elizabeth St. ( 800/937-8376 or 719/543-4644), with double rates of $80 to $150; La Quinta Inn, 4801 N. Elizabeth St. ( 800/753-3757 or 719/542-3500), with doubles ranging from $69 to $149; and Hampton Inn, 4703 N. Freeway, just west of I-25, exit 102 ( 800/972-0165 or 719/544-4700), where double rates range from $119 to $199. Room tax adds just under 12%.

Abriendo Inn ★★ This delightful B&B, built in 1906 as a mansion for brewing magnate Martin Walter, his wife, and their eight children, is the best place to stay for those who want to soak up some of the region’s history without sacrificing modern comforts and conveniences. A traditional foursquare-style house listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Abriendo Inn has won a deserved number of awards. It’s also very conveniently located in Pueblo’s historic district, close to shops and the Riverwalk. The comfortable guest rooms are decorated with antique furniture and period reproductions, plus king- or queen-size brass or four-poster beds. Four units have showers only; the rest have tub/shower combos or whirlpool tubs for two. Delicious homemade breakfasts might include a soufflé or baked apricot French toast, served in the oak-wainscoted dining room or on the outdoor patio.

300 W. Abriendo Ave., Pueblo, CO 81004. 719/544-2703. Fax 719/542-6544. www.abriendoinn.com. 10 units. $75–$155 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (some), hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

There are two KOA campgrounds in the Pueblo area, both open year-round and with all the usual commercial-campground amenities, including seasonal swimming pools. The Pueblo KOA is 5 miles north of the city at I-25, exit 108 ( 800/562-7453 for reservations, or 719/542-2273; www.koapueblo.com), and charges $26 for tent sites and $35 to $40 for RV hookup sites. The Colorado City KOA, about 20 miles south of Pueblo at I-25, exit 74 ( 800/562-8646 for reservations, or 719/676-3376; www.koa.com), charges $25 for tent sites and $37 to $42 for RV hookup sites. Both also have camping cabins (you share the bathhouse with campers) with rates in the $40 to $60 range. There are also some 400 campsites at Lake Pueblo State Park (see “Outdoor Activities,” above).

Where to Dine

For a comfortable, down-home dining experience, I like the American and Italian food served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner at Patti’s Restaurant, 241 S. Santa Fe Ave. ( 719/543-2371). Located on the Riverwalk, in the same location since 1936, Patti’s offers American favorites, including sandwiches, burgers, steak, and seafood, plus Italian specialties, in a relaxed family-friendly atmosphere. Available at both breakfast and lunch, I recommend the Half Breed—a spicy Italian sausage wrapped in a tortilla and smothered with spaghetti and green-chile sauce. Lunch and dinner prices run $6 to $15.

La Renaissance ★★ STEAK/SEAFOOD Housed in a historic 1880s Presbyterian church, La Renaissance, a favorite of locals since it opened in 1974, offers casually elegant dining in a unique atmosphere. The decor includes stained-glass windows, high vaulted ceilings, and oak pews, which provide some of the seating. Dinners begin with an appetizer and a tureen of soup and finish with dessert, which might be the delightful cream puffs. Although the menu changes periodically, entrees might include the tender slow-roasted prime rib, steamed Alaskan king crab legs, and baby back pork ribs as well as chiles rellenos and a few southwestern specialties. There’s a wide variety of domestic and imported wine and beer, and service is attentive and friendly.

217 E. Routt Ave. 719/543-6367. www.larenaissancerestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses dinner $15–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 4–8pm. From I-25, exit 97B, take Abriendo Ave. northwest for 4 blocks, turn left onto Michigan St., and go 2 blocks to the restaurant.