Meringue making sends many otherwise good bakers into a tailspin when their lustrous topping weeps (beads of liquid sugar rise to the surface) and deflates into a shriveled version of its initial glory. Here is a meringue that holds its shape and stays fluffy without weeping. The step of warming the egg whites and dissolving the sugar—which takes just a few seconds—before beating the meringue is its key to success. I like a generous topping, so this amount will cover any 9-inch pie in a thick, billowy layer. You will need an electric mixer to make it.
Makes meringue topping for one 9-inch pie
⅔ cup egg whites (about 5 eggs)
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Combine the egg whites and sugar in a large stainless steel or glass bowl. (I don’t recommending using a plastic bowl; it can hold a greasy film that will keep the whites from beating to full volume.) Set the bottom of the bowl over a pan of simmering—not boiling—water. Stir gently for a minute or two, using a spoon or your finger, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture feels warm. Remove the bowl from the water and add the cream of tartar and salt. Beat at high speed until the whites stand in stiff peaks that droop just slightly when the beater is lifted. Depending on the power and speed of your mixer, this will take 1½ to 3 minutes, more or less, but appearance is a better indicator than time. Beat in the vanilla.
Gently spread the meringue over the pie filling (it’s okay if the pie filling is warm), completely covering the filling and making sure the meringue touches the edges of the crust all around. Use the back of a spoon to swirl lofty peaks and deep crevices in the meringue.
To brown the meringue, preheat the broiler and position a rack so that the top of the pie will be about 4 inches from the heat; if you are in doubt, it is better to have it too far from the heat than too close. Put the pie under the broiler until the meringue has glistening, golden streaks and well-browned peaks, 1 or 2 minutes. Don’t take your eyes off it, because a few seconds can make a big difference.