Chocolate should be cut into small pieces of about equal size before melting it; the smaller the pieces, the faster they will melt.
To melt chocolate in a microwave oven, put it in a bowl, cover it and microwave it for 1-minute periods, leaving 2- to 3-minute intervals between the microwaving periods, so it does not scorch.
To melt chocolate conventionally, put the chocolate pieces in a stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan of hot water and stir occasionally until the chocolate melts.
Separating eggs (1:39)
When beating egg whites, use eggs right from the refrigerator. Cold contracts, so if your whites are cold, they’ll beat into very small, tight bubbles that hold well. Lukewarm egg whites give greater volume but may become too airy and break down. (If possible, use fresh organic eggs from a farm, which are higher in albumin and can be beaten cold or at room temperature without breaking down.)
Eggs beaten in a copper bowl (cleaned well with vinegar and salt or copper polish) have a nice spongy texture that’s perfect for a soufflé. A chemical reaction between the copper and the egg whites lowers the pH, or acidifies the whites, giving them the proper texture. If you are not using a copper bowl, add a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar or a bit of cream of tartar to acidify the egg whites.
I prefer to beat small quantities of egg whites by hand, because in a stand electric mixer, the whisk follows a path without any deviation, so a portion of the whites won’t get mixed in, and that can make the whites grainy. However, for 10 or more whites, the electric mixer is my choice.
If you do beat the egg whites by machine, finish them by hand. Use a large flexible balloon whisk and beat them for a few seconds in a 12- to 14-inch bowl.
Making and piping meringue (5:09)
It’s important that flans, crème brûlées, pots de crème, and other similar custards be cooked slowly in a water bath in the oven. Use lukewarm water from the tap. The water should never come to a boil; if it does, add some ice cubes to lower the water temperature quickly. If the custard cooks too fast, little holes will form all around the sides; it should be very smooth and silky in texture.
Grand Marnier, a liqueur made of cognac and a distillate of oranges, is expensive. Here’s an alternative.
Remove the rind from 7 or 8 oranges with a vegetable peeler. (See Video: Peeling and Julienning Orange Skin and Segmenting an Orange.) Drop the rind into a bottle and cover it with 3 cups good brandy or Armagnac. Add 2 tablespoons sugar. Shake the bottle a few times to dissolve the sugar. Let stand for 3 weeks to 1 month.
When making crepes, the quantity of liquid in the batter can be changed to make the crepes thicker or thinner. Milk or a mixture of milk and water is usually used, but some recipes use cream or even beer. The number of eggs varies from recipe to recipe as well. Cream or extra egg yolks make a crepe that is tender and soft but difficult to turn. The more water and less fat, the more the batter is like a bread dough, making a crepe that’s stronger and more elastic.
Crepe batter does not have to rest before it can be used. When it rests, it tends to thicken slightly, but this is barely noticeable in the final product.
There are special steel crepe pans that have very short sides, which makes it easy to flip crepes. However, any pan that has a nonstick surface is fine. I usually use a pan that is 6 inches in diameter.
Crepes can be made ahead and stacked, especially if they are to be stuffed or used in Crepes Suzette, then reheated as necessary. If you cover them with plastic wrap so that they don’t dry out and absorb other flavors, they will keep well for a couple of days in the refrigerator. They can also be frozen.
Making crepes and crepes Suzette (7:29)