Index

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Abernathy, Ralph David

Abyssinian Baptist Church (Harlem)

African Hebrew Israelites of Jerusalem

African Heritage Cookbook, The (Mendes)

“African Negritude—Black American Soul” (Jeanpierre)

Africa Today

Agassiz, Elizabeth

Agassiz, Louis

agie el dulce (chili con carne)

agricultural experiment stations

Akan people

Alabama State College

Ali, Muhammad

Allen, William

American Dietitian Association

Amerindians

Amy Ruth’s (Harlem)

Angelou, Maya

Angola

Arawak people

arbis

Archibald-Good, Victoria

Arkansas

Armstrong, Louis

La Arriba (Tarrytown)

artisans

ashes, for cooking

Asian food

Atlanta, Georgia

Atlanta Journal

Atlanta University

Atlanta University Center (AUC)

Atlantic foodways

Atlantic slave trade; slave provisions on ships

Ball, Charles

bananas

Banks, Nettie C.

Baraka, Amiri

Barbados

barbecue

Bar Harbor (Ossining)

Barksdale, Marcellas C. D.

Barnett, Ella

Barrio, Renaldo

Barry’s Grill (Greensboro)

bars; Caribbean influence

bartering

Bath, Broom, and Bible

Batista y Zaldívar, Fulgencio

beans; bean pie; black-eyed peas (cowpeas); Dab-a-Dab; gongo beans (pigeon peas)

Belton, Frank

Ben Ammi, Rabbi

Ben’s Chili Bowl (District of Columbia)

Biafra region (Nigeria)

Birdland

Birth of a Nation, The

black arts movement

Black Collegian

black-eyed peas (cowpeas)

Black Family Dinner Quilt Cookbook, The

black nationalism

Black Panther Party

Black Panther Party for Self-Defense

black power movement

Blassingame, John W.

Bloomberg, Michael

bodegas

Bodegas (Tarrytown)

Body and Soul program (National Cancer Institute)

boll weevil

bonavist

Bond, Julian

Bon Goo Barbecue (Harlem)

bonne-bouche

Boswell, Christopher

Bowman, Liz

Bowser, Pearl

boxers

box lunches

brabacots

Bradshaw, Rudolph

Braithwaite, Kwame

Brazil

breads; cassava “bammy,”; corn bread; cornmeal; crackling bread; hoecakes; Kangues; made with corn and sweet potatoes; ponap; pone bread; spoon bread; technology for baking; West African cookery; yam foo foo; ‘yam foo foo

breakfast

Bremer, Fredrika

brilliant generation

British foodways

Brooks, Wendell

Brown, H. Rap

Brown, James

Brown, William Wells

Brown v. Board of Education

Bryant’s Place (Memphis)

Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and Power (Williams-Forson)

bunkhouses

Burgess, Mary Keyes

Burkett, Henry “the Black King,”

Byrd, William

café pico

calabash

California, northern

Callahan, Ed

canned food

canning

Canot, Theodore

Capone, Al

Cardwell, Barbara Ann

Caribbean; African foodways in; African-influenced cuisines; Arawak people; slave rations

Caribbean immigrants: interethnic relationships with African Americans; migration, first wave; migration, 1930s and 1940s; migration, 1950s and 1960s; shared characteristics of second wave immigrants; youth culture and influence on African Americans

El Caribe (Harlem)

Carmichael, Stokely (Kwame Ture)

Carolinas. See also North Carolina; South Carolina

caruru (cooking greens)

Cayton, Horace R.

Center for Peace in Justice

Chambers, Douglas Brent

Champburger Palace franchise

Charles II

Chavez, Sarah

Chesapeake Bay region; as land of culinary negotiation; special occasions

Chicago, South Side

chicken. See poultry

Chicken Shack (Harlem)

Chicken Store franchise

chitlin circuit

chitlins

Chock Full o’ Nuts Cafe (Harlem)

Christmas

Christopher, Claven

churches; hospitality committee; as social centers; soup kitchens; South Side Chicago

civil rights movement; soul food and

Civil War

Clark-Atlanta University

Cleaver, Eldridge

clergy, African American

Cleveland, Ohio

Cloverdale, Virginia, migrants from

Club Harlem (New York)

Club Six (Tarrytown)

cobblers (bucklers)

Coca-Cola recipe

cocoyam

collard greens

colleges and universities: health and nutrition movement. See also historically black colleges and universities

colonial social order

Columbian exchange

communists

Confederate Army

Congolese

Congress of Racial Equality (CORE)

Conqueran, Alice N.

Cook, Raymond

Cook, Walter

cookbooks

cooks, African American

Cooper Rail (Harlem)

corn

cornmeal

Corona, Francisco

Corona’s luncheonette (North Tarrytown)

Cotton, Martin

cotton gin

couscous

Crawford Grill (Pittsburgh)

Creole Pete’s (Harlem)

creolization

Cromwell, Oliver

Crouch, Lamenta Diane (Watkins)

Cruz, Eddie

Cruz, Sonya

Cuban restaurants

Cubans

Cubop

cucu (okra dish)

cult of Sambohood

cultural exchange: Caribbean influence on African Americans

cultural identity

curry sauce

Dab-a-Dab

Davis, Jefferson

De Carlo’s (Tarrytown)

Defender

Department of Agriculture

desserts; lemon icebox pies. See also pies

Detroit, Michigan

Dew Drop Inn

Dick Gregory’s Natural Diet for Folks Who Eat: Cookin’ with Mother Nature (Gregory and Fulton)

Dickins, Dorothy

Dimmie, Horace

Dimmie, Jane and Lucy

Dioscorea (yams)

District of Columbia

Divine, Father (George Baker)

domestic work

Dominican restaurants

Douglass, Frederick

Drake, St. Clair

dressing

drippings

Du Bois, W. E. B.

Duers, Luesta

Dukes, Nathan “Bubba,”

Dull, Henrietta Stanley

Ebony

education, eating habits and

eel

eggplant Parmesan

Ellington, Beryl

Ellis, Rodney

Emancipation Day

Emancipation Proclamation

La Embajada (Tarrytown)

emergency food stations

Emergency Work and Relief Administration

employment: auto industry; during Depression; domestic work; restaurants refuse to hire African Americans

engagés (indentured servants)

entertainers: African American; Afro-Cuban

Equiano, Olaudah

Eripp, Tillie

Erwin, Stephen

European influence on eating traditions; Columbian exchange

Evans, Therman E.

Evan’s Bar and Grill (Maryland)

Evelyn, Dorothy M.

Evers, Medgar

family compounds

Fardales, Oliviero Ojito

Farmer’s (Tarrytown)

Farrakhan, Louis

fatback

fatty foods

El Favorito (Harlem)

Federal Civil Works Administration (FCWA)

Federal National Relief Agency (NRA)

Feijoada

Fields, John

Fields’ Rotisserie (Tarrytown)

firemen, African American

fish; batatas doces,; catfish; dried; South Carolina; trout

fish fries

fishing

Fithian, Philip Vickers

Five Percenters

flabber-sauce

Florida Avenue Grill

food professionals

food rebels. See health and nutrition

foodways

Formula X

Fourth of July

Franklin, Aretha

french-fried potatoes

fried foods; food reform and

fruit

fruitcake

Fruit of Islam

frying

Fuentes (Harlem)

Fulton, Alvenia Moody

funerals

Gambia

Gambia River region

Garcia, Aurelio

gardens

Genovese, Eugene D.

Ghana

Gillespie, Dizzy

Gilroy, Paul

Gladys Knight’s Chicken Waffle (Atlanta)

Gold Coast

Golden Krust (Brooklyn)

Gold Platter franchise

González, Evelyn

González, Juan

Gospel bird (chicken)

Greasy Spoon (Atlanta)

Greasy Spoon (Richmond)

Great Depression; breadlines; culinary exchange; Harlem during; north of Harlem; relief programs; South, effect on; subsistence farming

Great Migration; Caribbeans; case studies of eating habits; North Carolina migrants; South Carolina family diets; special occasions

Green, Katie

Green, Obie

greens; caruru; pot-likker; reformed cooking

Green’s Bar and Grill (Ossining)

Green’s Royal Palm (Mount Vernon)

Gregory, Dick

Grit ’n’ Eggs (Harlem)

grits

Grosvenor, Verta Mae

growth hormones

Guayos Cubans

Guinea

gumbo

Haley, Alex

Halleck, H. W.

Hampton Institute

Hansbury, Harry

Harlem, New York; during Depression; East (“Spanish Harlem,” “El Barrio”); in 1950s; upperclass African Americans

Harlem Renaissance

harvest time

Harwood, Jim

Hausa people

Hawkins, Joseph

health and nutrition; Nation of Islam and; natural food diets; obesity; reformed soul food; university-trained point of view

Hernandez, Angelo

Hernandez, Ralph

Hicock, Lorena

historically black colleges and universities (HBCUs); health and nutrition; institutional food

Hodgson, Adam

hoecakes

Hoffman, John Wesslay

hog-killing time

Home: Social Essays (Baraka)

homecoming

home fries

hominy

honky-tonks

hopping John

Hornsby, Alton, Jr.

Hornsby, Sadie B.

hospitality, southern

housing

Howard University

How to Eat to Live (Muhammad)

Hudson River

Hughes, Langston

Hughes, Louis

hunting methods

Hurricane (Pittsburgh)

Iberian cookery

The Ideal (Harlem)

Igbo people; traditions; in Virginia

indentured servants, white

infrapolitics

intellectual property rights, black

Interdenominational Theological Center

interracial dining, Father Divine and

Islamic religion. See also Nation of Islam

Italians

Jackson, Mahalia

Jackson, Maynard

Jamaican cookery

James, Stanlie M.

El Jaravi (North Tarrytown)

Jarrett, Vernon

jazz

Jeanpierre, W. A.

Jeffries, Bob

jerking meat

jim crow; black sections of restaurants; Harlem in 1950s; resistance to; special occasion foods in restaurants; student sit-in movement; in Westchester County (New York)

Jock’s Palace (Harlem)

Joe’s Barbecue (Poughkeepsie)

Johnnie B’s (Richmond)

Johnson, Betty

Johnson, James Weldon

Johnson, Joseph “Joe Mack”

Johnson, Ralph

Johnson’s Barbecue (South Bronx)

Jones, LeRoi. See Baraka, Amiri

Jubilee, Yamaja

Juffure (Mande village)

July, Robert W.

Kelly’s (Atlantic City)

King, B. B.

King, Martin Luther, Jr.

kings

Ku Klux Klan

Knight, Gladys

knishes

kola nut

Kya (Mande town)

Lane, Daroca

laying-up time

lechon azado

Leggio, Carmen John

Lemah, Dr.

Leslie, Charles

Lewis, Joan B.

Lincoln, Abraham

loblolly

Lockett, Samuel H.

Lopez, Miguel

Lucky Seven Grocery (North Tarrytown)

lyelynching

Mabry, Laura Evangeline

macaroni and cheese

mafongo con chicahrones

maize

Malagasy (Madagascars) people

Malcolm X

Malcolm X Boulevard (Harlem)

mambo mania

Mande people

mangu, Dominican

Manhattan, Bowery neighborhood

manioc

Manna’s Buffet and Catering Service (Harlem)

Marees, Pieter de

Marín, Luis Muñoz

marinades

Marocho celebration

Maryland; jim crow

Maybee, Carleton

meat; agie el dulce (chili con carne); Amerindian use of; barbecue; British folkways; goat; jerking; red meat; squirrel; turtle; uses of; venison; wild game. See also pork; poultry

meat, meal, and molasses (three Ms)

Meharry Medical College

Mendes, Helen

Metropolis (Harlem)

M & G (Harlem)

Middle Passage

Miller, Malcolm J.

Miller, Roy

Miller, Ruth Thorpe

millet

missionaries

mixta

molasses

Molten, Benny

Moorish Science Temple of America

Moors

Morehouse College

Morris Brown College

motherhood, biblical

Motown

Mozambique

Muhammad, Elijah

multiethnic communities

nadir of race relations

National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP)

National Council of Negro Women

Nation of Islam; bean pie; healthy eating, promotion of

Native Americans. See Amerindians

nealing (pudding)

Neely, Francis Ann Watkins

negritude

New Deal programs

New Era (Nashville)

New Negro movement

New Orleans

newspapers, African American

Newton, Huey P.

New Year’s Day

New York; African-influenced Caribbean cuisines; Brooklyn; case studies of eating habits; Cubans; South Bronx. See also Harlem; Harlem, New York; North Tarrytown New York; Ossining, New York; Tarrytown, New York; Westchester County, New York

Nigeria

Niger River region

Nite and Day Delicatessen (North Tarrytown)

noblemen

North Africans

North Carolina

North Carolina A&T

North Carolina Central University (NCCU)

North Tarrytown, New York; Cuban restaurants

Obie’s (Harlem)

Off Campus Grill (Durham)

okra

Olmsted, Frederick Law

one-pot meals

Opie, Dorothy

Opie, Fred, Jr.

Opie, Fred, Sr.

Opie, Lucy Dimmie

Opie, Margaret

Opie, Washington “Wash” (Opia)

oral history

oral traditions

orchards

Ossining, New York

Ossining Economic Opportunity Center

Ossining Volunteer Fire Department

Our Campus Grill (Durham)

Outlaw, Benjamin

Outlaw, Hattie

oyster dressing

paella a la Valenciana

palm oil

palm wine

paloon

Panamanians

pancakes

Park, Mungo

Parker, Charlie “Bird,”

Parks, Gordon

Parks, Rosa

Pascal’s (Atlanta)

Patterson House (Bronx)

Peace Centers (Father Divine)

Peekskill Riots (1949)

pepper

pepper pot

Philly’s Bake and Take (Mount Vernon)

physical activity

physicians, African American

pies; bean pie; chess; lemon icebox pies; mincemeat; rhubarb; sweet potato pie; vinegar; vinegar pies

Pinch of Soul in Book Form, A (Bowser)

Pinckney, Eliza Lucas

Pino, Freddy

Pittman, Clara Bullard

plantains

plantations: in Caribbean; rice

planting festival

Pocantico Hills (Rockefeller estate)

Poe, Tracy N.

Point Four Program

pollo frito

pork; chitlins; for Christmas; country ham; fatback; frog; inclusion in other dishes; Nation of Islam restrictions on; for New Year’s Day; poor-quality; pork; smoked ham

portion control

Portuguese

potatoes: french-fried potatoes; home fries

poultry; chicken and waffles; chicken as Gospel bird; chicken as sacred food; for Christmas; Guinea hen; hens; refusal to cook chicken for white employers; on special occasions. See also meat

Powell, Adam Clayton, Jr.

Pozas, George

Pozo, Chano

Priestly, George

processed foods

property ownership, African American

protein

puddings

Puerto Rican restaurants

Puerto Ricans

Quintana, Pascual

rabbit (hare)

railroad camps

Randolph, Peter

Reconstruction

Red Rooster (Harlem)

Reed, Patricia

reform efforts

relief programs

religion: African, food and; during antebellum period; camp meetings; Christianity; Father Divine; homecoming; interchurch visiting; late-nineteenth-century revivals; Watch Night

Remarks on the Slave Trade, and the Slavery of the Negroes

rent parties

Report from Black America

restaurants: African American employees in white-owned; African American-owned; bars and grills; Caribbean; Cuban; Dominican; franchises; Harlem; rib stands; segregated; soul food, late 1960s; soulless; upper-class African American. See also individual restaurants

rice; arroz con camarones; arroz con gallina; arroz con pollo; in gumbo; hopping John; white vs. brown

Rice Coast

rice plantations

Rockefeller, John D.

Roots (Haley)

ropa vieja (shredded beef)

Ross, Carrie

Ross, Diana

Rustin, Bayard

Rutherford, John

Sadique, Sundiata (Walter Brooks)

St. Mark’s Catholic Church

salmon, canned

salt

salt pork

Salvation Army

Samos, Virginia

Santo Domingo

S[a]o Tomé

sauces; barbecue sauce; flabber-sauce

Saunders, Elijah

sausage dressing

“Saving Soul Food” (Newsweek)

Scharff ’s Restaurant (White Plains)

Schaw, Jen

Scott, Bill

seafood

Seale, Bobby

seasonings; annatto seeds; Italian spices

Sehnert, Keith W.

self-determination

self-starvation as crime

separate but equal laws

Sepia

Seventh-Day Adventists

sharecropping

shared culinary traditions

shea butter

Simone, Nina

Sing Sing Prison

slave rations; Caribbean; Chesapeake Bay region; on slave ships; South Carolina

slaves: appropriation of food; artisans; Atlantic slave trade; percentage of compared to whites; in West African societies

Sleepy Hollow. See North Tarrytown

Smalls, Alexander

Small’s Paradise (New York)

soul; antebellum religion and; collective identity and; oral traditions and; origins in African religion; political origins of; as term. See also religion; special occasions

soul food; as art form; chicken and waffles; debates over; defined; genocidal implications; as high cuisine; jim crow eateries and; late 1960s; Northern traditions; origins of term; reformed; as white man’s culture

soul intuition

soul music; origins of term

Souls of Black Folk, The (Du Bois)

Soul to Soul: A Soul Food Vegetarian Cookbook (Burgess)

Soul Vegetarian restaurants

South: Depression and; landlords provide dinner; soul and

South Carolina; Charleston; family diets, Great Migration years; proprietary patronage; slave rations. See also Carolinas

Southern Cooking (Dull)

speakeasies

special occasions; Chesapeake Bay region; chicken as sacred food; Christmas; co-optation of by slaves; during Depression; food and African religion; Fourth of July; Great Migration era; homecoming; late-nineteenth-century revivals; rent parties; sixth of January (old Christmas); during slavery; Watch Night

Spelman College

steam engine

stews; bonne-bouche; Brunswick stew; oglios; sancocho; West African cookery

store-bought food

store owners, white

stores, African American

Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC)

Suarez, Orestes

Suarez, Pozas

subsistence farming

sugar plantations

Sundstrom, William A.

supermarkets

surplus food distribution program

sweet milk

sweet potatoes

sweet potato pie; as soul food

Sylvia Woods’s (Harlem)

tamales

Tappan Hill Restaurant (Tarrytown)

Tarks’ (White Plains)

Tarrytown, New York; Cuban migration to. See also North Tarrytown, New York

task system

Taylor, Joe Gray

Taylor, Matilda

technology for cooking

Temple No. 7

tenant farming

textile mills

theaters, African American

Tillie’s Chicken Shack (Harlem)

Toreador (restaurant)

train rides, food for

travel accounts

Tuskegee Institute

Tuskegee Woman’s Club

Tweedy, Mary

University of the District of Columbia

upper class, African American: Harlem

Upper-Class Men (Tarrytown)

urban centers. See also Harlem; New York; North Tarrytown; Ossining; Tarrytown

US Organization

vegans

vegetables: British foodways; for seasoning; wild. See also greens

vegetarian foods

vegetarians

venison

La Via (North Tarrytown)

Virginia; Cloverdale, migrants from; Igbo people in; Samos

Virginia State College

Virginia Union University

Von Hesse-Warteg, Ernest

waffles

Walker, Gladys (Geraldine)

Walker, Robert (Bill)

Ward, Reginald T.

War on Poverty

Warren, Frances

Warren, Jim

Washington, Booker T.

Washington, D.C.

Washington, Margaret

Watch Night

Watson, George

Watts, Eugene

Watts, Gene

Weekly Louisianian

Well’s Waffle House (Harlem)

West African societies

West African cookery; barbecue; as healthy; Igbo traditions; Mande traditions

Westchester County, New York

Western Bantu people

West Indian cookery

West Indies

Westray (Pittsburgh)

“What’s Wrong with Soul Food?” (Johnson and Reed)

White, Joyce

White, Katie

White, Maggie

White, Nora Burns

whites: indentured servants; poor and working class; South, eating habits; tenant farmers

Williams, Eugene “Hot Sauce,”

Williams, Lindsey

Williams-Forson, Psyche A.

Williamson, Edward

Wilson, Woodrow

women: domestic work; labor-intensive work

Wonderful Bar (Tarrytown)

Works Progress Administration (WPA); “America Eats” (WPA); “Feeding the City” (WPA)

World War I

World War II

yam belt

yam foo foo

yams