A BRIEF TOUR OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

The Appalachian Trail’s southern terminus is on Springer Mountain in Georgia. With a total of 75.4 miles, Georgia’s trail elevation ranges from 2,510 feet to 4,461 feet (Blood Mount Shelter). Georgia’s brief section of trail is characterized by short, steep ups and downs. Although rising at times to elevations of over 4,000 feet, the Trail is mostly along undulating ridges at elevations of about 3,000 feet. The weather is comparable to lower elevations in northern Virginia and Maryland. Those tempted by the southerly latitude to plan spring break hikes in March may encounter sleet or snow. In federally designated wilderness areas (about half of the Trail in this state) authorities request hikers to camp out of sight of the Trail. The A.T. is crowded with thru-hikers in March and the first half of April.

The Trail crosses the state line into North Carolina at Bly Gap. The total trail mileage in North Carolina is 88.1 miles, plus an additional 154.9 miles passing along the Tennessee–North Carolina border. Once the A.T. crosses into North Carolina, it ascends steeply into the Nantahala National Forest with its mile-high peaks. From the Nantahala, the hiker heads north over the Stecoah Mountains to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The A.T. reaches its highest elevation in the Smokies. At 6,643 feet, Clingmans Dome is the north-bounder’s first taste of boreal forest with its balsam firs and rarely seen mountain cranberries. North of the Smokies, the A.T. crosses several bald mountains. These peaks are breezy realms of grass and sky where the hiker is rewarded by impressive 360-degree views. The Trail continues along the North Carolina–Tennessee border until it reaches Roan Mountain. The A.T. swings into Tennessee for good at a point roughly 25 miles north of Roan Mountain along a newly added route that contributes another waterfall to the scenery.

Only 137.9 miles of the Appalachian Trail pass through Tennessee (in addition to the 154.9 miles shared with the North Carolina border as mentioned above). From Grassy Ridge, the Trail descends into Laurel Fork Gorge, with its breathtaking waterfall, and crosses the dam at Watauga Lake before traversing a long ridge (known to thru-hikers as the Tennessee Turnpike) into Virginia.

The total trail mileage for Virginia is 549 miles (including 23.8 miles along the Virginia–West Virginia border). One quarter of the Appalachian Trail lies in Virginia, ranging in elevation from 668 feet to 5,500 feet. In addition to comprising a quarter of the Trail, this state encompasses such varied terrain and offers such different hiking experiences that we have divided it into four regions, corresponding to the four guidebooks published for this state by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

A.T. Headquarters in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia

Springer Mountain plaque

After leaving Tennessee, the A.T. enters the Southwest Virginia region, and shortly thereafter, the Trail town of Damascus, where the annual Trail Days festival celebrating the thru-hiking experience is held. The Trail passes through the open meadows of the Mount Rogers high country (5,000 feet and above) with a stunning seasonal display of rhododendron blooms.

Crossing over the New River and passing into the Central Virginia region, hikers travel over several noteworthy 3,000- to 4,000-foot peaks, including Dragon’s Tooth, McAfee Knob, the Priest, Three Ridges, and Humpback Rocks.

Reaching Rockfish Gap, the A.T. enters the 107-mile Shenandoah National Park section. Gentle grades, climbs rarely exceeding 1,000 feet, an abundance of wildlife, and roadside amenities along nearby Skyline Drive are the highlights of this section. The Trail finally enters the Northern Virginia stretch comprised of low ridges, usually between 1,000 and 2,000 feet.

The A.T. leaves the longest state to enter the shortest: West Virginia. With only 4 miles of trail, West Virginia still manages to pack in nearly 1,000 feet of elevation change from 265 feet at the Potomac River Footbridge to 1,200 feet at Loudoun Heights. The Trail passes through the historic town of Harpers Ferry, providing opportunities to explore the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park and its interpretive exhibits. As it leaves the town, heading south, the Trail follows a wooded ridge above the Shenandoah River, passing Jefferson Rock overlook, with impressive views of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters is located in Harpers Ferry, on a quarter-mile blue-blazed trail off the A.T.

After crossing the Potomac River, hikers enter Maryland and its 40.5 miles of trail. Maryland ranges in elevation from 230 feet at the C&O Canal Towpath to 1,880 feet at Quirauk Mountain.

The Trail through Maryland is gentle, with no climbs over 1,000 feet. Once you have climbed Weverton Cliffs, it may be the easiest state to hike (other than West Virginia). This section is a good place to find out if you’re ready for more rugged parts of the Trail; for example, it’s a great place to shakedown your body and gear without the tough climbs. The state requires hikers to stay at designated shelters and campsites while passing through Maryland.

The A.T. follows the crest of South Mountain Ridge into Pennsylvania with its 229.4 miles of trail. Here hikers will find the approximate halfway point of the Trail. Although the true midpoint changes from year to year, those attempting a thru-hike, or who have been hiking the A.T. in sections, usually celebrate here by consuming a half-gallon of ice cream at Pine Grove Furnace State Park. The A.T. meets the end of the Blue Ridge Mountains in Pennsylvania at White Rocks, its northern terminus. It then descends into the Cumberland Valley.

The third largest of the A.T. states, Pennsylvania, is famous for its rocks. Trail maintenance clubs in this state joke about sharpening the rocks to torture hikers, and there are some areas (in particular, from Wind Gap to Fox Gap) that are reminiscent of walking on a bed of nails. After crossing the Susquehanna River at Duncannon, the Trail follows the eastern ridge of the Alleghenies to Delaware Water Gap.

From Delaware Water Gap, the A.T. enters New Jersey and its 72.4 miles of trail. The New Jersey section ranges from 350 feet at the Delaware River Bridge to 1,685 feet at High Point State Park viewpoint, near High Point Monument, which is the high point for the State of New Jersey. More wooded and removed from civilization than one might expect considering its proximity to large population centers, this section of the A.T. includes views of farmlands and pastures. Although the terrain is sometimes rocky, the elevation changes are generally moderate. A highlight of the southern section is glacial Sunfish Pond.

From the Kittatiny Mountain range, the Trail proceeds north through New York’s 88.5 miles of trail. New York boasts the lowest point on the Appalachian Trail at 124 feet, located at the Trailside Museum and Zoo at Bear Mountain. The A.T. also climbs to a respectable 1,433 feet at Prospect Rock. New York’s Trail, like the footpath in neighboring New Jersey, is more wooded and removed from civilization than visions of New York City might lead one to expect. The elevation changes are generally moderate, and vary from relatively flat and gentle to short, steep rocky pitches. Many rocky ledges provide valley and lake views.

Continuing northward, the Trail crosses back and forth, then enters Connecticut for good on top of Schaghticoke Mountain. Most of the 51.6 miles of trail are spent rambling along the Housatonic River and the Taconic Mountains. The trail ranges in elevation from 260 to 2,316 feet at Bear Mountain. This area of the A.T. is noted for accessible water, particularly in contrast to dry mid-Atlantic states of Maryland through New York. There are more walks along rivers than any other area. Several summits and ledges provide views, as opposed to the ridgewalking that characterizes the mid-Atlantic states. Ascents are not sustained; most are moderate, but with steep, fairly challenging sections that are short in duration and offer fine pastoral views.

In Sage’s Ravine, the A.T. leaves Connecticut for Massachusetts and its 90.2 miles of the Trail. Having left the lower elevations of the mid-Atlantic states, the Trail continues to gain in elevation. From a low point of 650 feet at Massachusetts Route 2, it climbs to 3,491 feet at Mount Greylock. This area of the A.T. is also noted for its proximity to water, such as the Housatonic and Hoosic rivers, and scenic Upper Goose Pond. The Trail then passes through the Housatonic Valley, an area rich in American history. Several summits and ledges provide views of the bucolic countryside, particularly in the southern part of the state. The Trail is mostly moderate, but with steep, fairly challenging sections that are short in duration.

Turkey tail shelf fungus

Just north of Williams–town, Massachusetts, and its famous summer theater, the A.T. enters Vermont. The Appalachian Trail and the Long Trail join at the Vermont border to follow the crest of the Green Mountains and its skiing areas for 104.1 miles. After descending Killington Peak at Sherburne Pass, the A.T. and the Long Trail climb together away from the road, then part ways. The A.T. continues another 45.6 miles along rugged woods and farmlands until it crosses the Connecticut River at Hanover, New Hampshire.

After leaving Hanover, home of Dartmouth College, the Trail tops Smarts Mountain, then Mount Cube, and then Mount Mist. It ascends Mount Moosilauke, introducing the northbound hiker to the first above-tree-line climb on the Trail and the breathtaking White Mountains. Here, in the Presidential Range, the highest peak in the Northeast—Mount Washington—is a prize to conquer. At 6,288 feet, Mount Washington’s hurricane-force winds and difficult-to-predict temperature drops earn the peak the odd boast of having the “worst weather in the world.” The A.T. leaves New Hampshire, with its 161 miles of Trail, to enter Maine.

Maine holds the northern terminus for the Appalachian Trail at the end of its 281.4 miles. The A.T. in Maine is generally considered the most difficult of the 14 states, ranging in elevation from 490 feet at the Kennebec River to 5,267 feet at Katahdin.

A small portion of the A.T.

Although the elevations seldom top 4,000 feet, the treadway is far rougher and steeper than all other areas of the Trail except for the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Some sections require grabbing onto tree roots and limbs to climb or descend, and are especially slippery and hazardous when wet. Switchbacks and graded trails are uncommon. In the Mahoosuc Range of western Maine and on some of the other rugged mountains, even the strongest hikers may average only 1 mile an hour. And while a small creek may be bridged elsewhere on the A.T., almost all streams and rivers in Maine must be forded. Highlights include crossing the Kennebec River on a free ferry and, of course, reaching Katahdin.

When hiking along the Appalachian Trail, you will generally find the following to be true of the terrain:

• The South has the highest mountains on the Trail, but those mountains have deep soils that allow for switchbacks. Lengthy, graded ascents and descents are frequent.
• The mid-Atlantic states have the lowest mountains, where the A.T. frequently leads along rocky ridges.
• In New England, the Trail is both rocky and steep, sometimes muddy and root-obstructed as well.