alt alternate
approx approximately
beg begin(ning)
cm centimetres
cont continue
foll(s) follow(s)(ing)
g grams
icos including cast (bound) off stitch. After casting (binding) off the stated number of stitches, one stitch remains on the right-hand needle. This stitch is included in the number of the following group of stitches
in inches
inc work into front and back of next stitch to increase by one stitch
k knit
k2(3)tog knit next two (three) stitches together
oz ounces
p purl
p2(3)tog purl next two (three) stitches together
rem remain(ing)
rep repeat
RS right side
st(s) stitch(es)
st st stocking (stockinette) stitch
w&t wrap and turn. See Wrap and Turn Method, right.
WS wrong side
[ ] work instructions within square brackets as directed
* work instructions after asterisk(s) as directed
We recommend Rowan Yarns, but as each dinosaur takes only a small amount of yarn, any yarn can be used, either different colours or thicknesses. If using thicker yarns, use needles that are at least two sizes smaller than recommended on the ball band as the tension (gauge) needs to be tight so the stuffing doesn’t show. If using thicker yarn and larger needles, your dinosaur will be considerably bigger.
When holding stitches to use later on in the pattern, work the last row on a spare double-pointed needle. This means you can pick up and knit or purl the stitches from either end of the needle.
Carefully follow the instructions when picking up and knitting the first row of Neck and Head. The right side of the body is knitted first, then the left side. The backbone of the dinosaur is in the middle of this row. If picked up incorrectly the head will be facing towards the tail.
Holes can develop around the short-row shaping at the top of the head, and at the nape of the neck after you have sewn up the back of the dinosaur. To solve, Swiss darn over the holes. Swiss darning can also be used to cover up any untidy stitches.
Stuffing the dinosaur is as important as the actual knitting. Use a knitting needle point to push the stuffing into the feet/claws, and into the nose of the dinosaur. Even after the dinosaur is sewn up you can manipulate the stuffing with a knitting needle. If the stitches are distorted you have overstuffed.
The dinosaurs aren’t toys, but if you intend to give them to small children do not use pipecleaners in the construction. Instead, you will need to densely stuff the legs to make the dinosaur stand up.
This method is used for the Pterodactyl. If possible, use coloured pipecleaners and try to match the colour of the wrapping yarn. Leaving a 5cm (2in) tail of free yarn, tightly wrap the yarn around the pipecleaner, making sure no pipecleaner chenille pokes through. Wrap down the pipecleaner to as close to the tip as possible, then wrap the yarn back up to the top. Knot the two ends and slip them into the body. If a little bit of white pipecleaner chenille shows through, colour it in with a matching felt-tip pen. A little dab of clear glue will stop the wrapping from slipping off the end of the pipecleaner.
With double-pointed needles, *knit a row. Slide the stitches to the other end of the needle. Do not turn the knitting. Repeat from *, pulling the yarn tight on the first stitch so that the knitting forms a tube.
Knit the number of stitches in the first short row. Slip the next stitch purlwise from the left-hand to the right-hand needle. Bring the yarn forward then slip the stitch back onto the left-hand needle. Return the yarn to the back. On a purl row use the same method, taking the yarn back then forward.
There are two main techniques for working with more than one colour in the same row of knitting: the intarsia technique and the Fair Isle technique. Most of the dinosaurs use either Fair Isle or intarsia.
This method is used when knitting individual, large blocks of colour. It is best to use a small ball (or long length) for each area of colour, otherwise the yarns will easily become tangled. When changing to a new colour, twist the yarns on the wrong side of the work to prevent holes from forming. When starting a new row, turn the knitting so that the yarns that are hanging from it untwist as much as possible. If you have several colours, you may occasionally have to reorganise the yarns at the back of the knitting. Your work may look messy, but once the ends are all sewn in it will look fine.
If there are no more than four stitches between colours you can use the Fair Isle technique. Begin knitting with the first colour, then drop this when you introduce the second colour. When you come to the first colour again, take it under the second colour to twist the yarns. When you come to the second colour again, take it over the first colour. The secret is not to pull the strands on the wrong side of the work too tightly or the work will pucker.