The New Whole Grains Cookbook

Heat the olive oil in a 4-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add the carrot and onion and sauté over medium heat until soft and golden, the longer the better. Add the garlic, tomatoes, pepper, salt, and beans. Sauté, stirring gently, until everything is heated through. Add the stock or water, push the veggies to the sides, and bring the liquids to a full boil. Turn off the heat, add the couscous, stir once quickly, and cover tightly. (If using bulgur, return to a full boil, cover tightly, simmer for 10 minutes, then take off the heat.)

Let the pot stand, covered, at room temperature for 10 minutes to absorb the liquids and flavors. Add the parsley, fluff with a fork, and serve warm, topped with the cheese.

½ large onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, sage, or rosemary

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 small carrots, chopped

3 stalks celery, chopped

4 cups chicken stock or other stock

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

½ cup wild rice or black or red rice, washed and rinsed

1½ cups brown basmati rice or other long-grain rice, washed and rinsed

½ cup dried cranberries or other dried fruit, chopped if large

½ cup pecans or other nuts, toasted

I LIKE TO THINK THAT THE INDIGENOUS PEOPLES OF NORTHERN MINNESOTA would have enjoyed this dish. Wild rice, cranberries, and some kinds of nuts were flourishing around the Great Lakes thousands of years ago. Try molding each serving in a ramekin for a restaurant-style presentation.

Classic Brown and Wild Rice and Herb Pilaf

In a heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, sauté the onion and thyme in the olive oil until soft but not browned (about 5 minutes). Add the carrots and celery and sauté until softened. Add the stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, and add the washed rices. Return to a boil, then lower the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the liquid is absorbed, 45 to 50 minutes.

Add the cranberries. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for about 5 minutes. For an elegant presentation, pack each serving into an oiled 1-cup ramekin or measuring cup and tap it out onto a small plate. Serve hot with the pecans on top.

MAKE A BATCH OF THIS TASTY DISH AND SERVE HALF WARM TONIGHT, then use the rest to stuff Whole-Grain Wraps tomorrow. Pumpkin seeds are rich in minerals and complement the already high-protein, high-mineral quinoa.

Mexican Quinoa with Pepitas and Cilantro

1½ cups water

1 cup quinoa

½ cup raw pumpkin seeds

1 cup cilantro leaves, washed and dried

2 cloves garlic

½ jalapeño chile

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon lime juice

1 small red bell pepper, chopped

2 scallions, chopped

In a 2-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid, bring the water to a boil. In a medium bowl, rinse the quinoa with warm water, pour off most of the water, then drain in a fine-mesh strainer. When the water boils, add the quinoa and bring it back to a boil. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. The water should all be absorbed, and small holes should have formed on the surface of the grain. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes, to finish steaming.

In a large sauté pan over high heat, dry-toast the pumpkin seeds. Shaking the pan, move the seeds over the heat until they begin to pop. Remove from the heat and put them into a food processor or blender. Add the cilantro, garlic, jalapeño, salt, and cumin and process, scraping the sides down frequently, until all the ingredients are well minced. Gradually add the olive oil and lime juice, processing until smooth.

If serving immediately, stir the cilantro mixture, bell pepper, and scallions into the quinoa while still warm. Otherwise, chill the quinoa and add the remaining ingredients when it is cool.

THE HAPPY ACCIDENT OF A BROWNED BOTTOM ON A POT OF RICE is a treasured delicacy in many cultures. In Spain, the crust on the bottom of paella is called socorrat, and in Iran it is called tadeeg. The Japanese save the koge, or crust, for soaking in hot tea. There are many methods for achieving crusty rice. I find the stovetop method to be very tricky, so I use a glass dish so that I can see the crust instead of guessing.

1 cup medium-grain brown rice, washed and rinsed

¼ cup sour cream

1 large egg (optional)

¼ teaspoon paprika

1 large pinch saffron, crumbled

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 new yellow potatoes, or ½ small sweet potato, thinly sliced

½ cup thinly sliced onion

Persian Spiced Rice with Crispy Potato Crust

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and add the washed rice. Boil the rice for 25 minutes, then drain. In a large bowl, mix the sour cream, egg (if using), paprika, saffron, cumin, and salt. Shake the rice in the strainer to release all the water, then mix the rice into the sour cream mixture.

Drizzle the olive oil over the bottom of a rounded glass 1-quart baking dish with a lid. Place the potatoes and onion in a single layer in the oil, and up the sides a bit. Put the dish in the oven for 5 minutes, then scatter the rice mixture over the potatoes, pressing it into the bottom of the dish. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. When the rice is cooked through and a brown crust is visible through the sides of the pan, use a knife or narrow spatula to loosen the edges. Place a platter or plate over the baking dish and invert the two, so that the crusty part will be on top. (Do this over a sink; some oil may drip.) Serve immediately, while the crust is crisp.

EVERYONE NEEDS A FEW RECIPES THAT CAN BE QUICKLY PULLED TOGETHER from pantry staples. A spicy sauce based on red peppers is a welcome change from the same old tomato sauce, and the piquancy complements the hearty whole wheat pasta. Whole wheat spaghetti has improved in the last few years, so try a few brands to see which one you like.

Pantry Pasta “Arrabbiata”

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

1 small red onion, chopped (about 1½ cups)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 16-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained and coarsely chopped

½ teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

3 tablespoons capers

8 ounces whole wheat spaghetti

½ cup fresh basil leaves

4 sprigs basil, for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic, onion, parsley, and red pepper flakes and sauté over medium heat until very soft. Add the roasted red peppers, salt, and black pepper and continue cooking for 3 to 4 minutes, until all is tender. Purée the mixture in a food processor, then transfer it back to the pan. Keep the sauce warm and add the capers.

Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to the package directions and drain thoroughly. Add to the sauce in the pan and heat, stirring, for 30 seconds. Chop the basil leaves and add to the pasta, toss to combine, and serve, garnished with basil sprigs.

Millet-Cauliflower “Mashed Potatoes”

THIS IS AN OLD MACROBIOTIC PREPARATION, created because potatoes are a member of the nightshade family, and thus are prohibited in a macrobiotic diet. In today’s world, the poor potato is avoided for its carbohydrates, so try this whole-grain and vegetable purée instead. Adding restaurant-style flavors will jazz it up, as will butter or gravy.

½ cup millet

2½ cups water

4 ounces sliced cauliflower stems and florets (about 1½ cups)

½ teaspoon salt

Butter, roasted garlic, wasabi, horseradish, and/or sour cream to taste (optional)

Wash and drain the millet, then put it in a 1-quart saucepan with a lid. Add the water, cauliflower, and salt. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to the lowest simmer. Cover and cook for 35 minutes, checking and giving it a stir after 30 minutes. The millet will break open and thicken the liquid in the pot. When the millet is very soft and thick, take it off the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

Use a blender for the smoothest purée, but a food processor will work almost as well. Purée until the mixture is as smooth as you can get it. Add butter or other flavorings, if desired, and serve in place of mashed potatoes.

MY FAVORITE THING ABOUT THANKSGIVING when I was growing up was always the sage-laced stuffing. This hearty rendition has chewy wild rice and whole wheat bread, and apples and nuts for even more sensations as you chew. Don’t wait for the holidays to make this dish; it’s a great way to use up stale bread and can be made with bulgur, buckwheat, or any of the rices.

Wild Rice and Hazelnut Stuffing with Apples

1 cup water

¼ cup wild rice

4 cups cubed whole wheat bread (about 5 slices)

2 tablespoons butter or oil

½ large onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 medium carrot, chopped

1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and chopped

2 cups vegetable stock

½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup hazelnuts, toasted, skins rubbed off, and coarsely chopped

In a small saucepan, bring the 1 cup water to a boil and cook the wild rice in it. Put the bread cubes in a large bowl and let them dry out for an hour or so, if you have time.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a large Dutch oven or pasta pot, heat the butter and sauté the onion, celery, and carrot over medium heat until all are tender. Add the apples, stock, pepper, herbs, and salt and bring to a simmer. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the bread cubes and cooked wild rice.

Scrape the stuffing into a 2-quart casserole or baking dish and top with the chopped hazelnuts, pressing the mixture down with the back of a spoon. You can cover and refrigerate the stuffing for up to 4 days at this point. Bake, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, until the top is golden brown.

THIS IS A GOOD DO-AHEAD DISH. The richness of the chèvre, the sweet earthiness of the shallots, and the nutty buckwheat combine to make this gratin intensely good. It may not look like much, but it melts in your mouth.

Rich and Tangy Buckwheat And Chèvre Gratin

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 large shallots, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

½ cup buckwheat groats

1½ cups chicken stock

1 sprig thyme or rosemary

2 ounces chèvre goat cheese (¼ cup)

½ teaspoon salt (optional)

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat, then add the shallots. When they start to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often. As they soften, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, and stir every 5 minutes. Oil a medium gratin pan or 8-inch square baking dish.

In a 2-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the buckwheat over high heat. Swirl the pan to heat the grains evenly. When the groats are fragrant and hot to the touch, quickly dump them into a wire-mesh strainer, rinse, drain, and put them back in the pan. Carefully add the stock (it will boil up when it hits the hot pan, so hold it away from you and go gradually). Add the thyme and bring the buckwheat mixture back to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 25 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

When the shallots are caramel colored and have cooked down, remove them from the heat. When the buckwheat is tender and all the stock is absorbed, take it off the heat. Scrape the warm buckwheat into a food processor, and pulse to coarsely purée. Add the chèvre, salt (if using), and shallots, and pulse to mix. Spread the mixture in the prepared baking pan so that it is in a thin layer. Sprinkle the Parmesan over the gratin and bake for 20 minutes, until the cheese is golden.

THIS INDIAN-INSPIRED RICE DISH IS JUST AS GOOD COLD AS IT IS HOT. Brilliant red rice gets an antioxidant boost from turmeric, another brightly colored food with protective properties. If using Himalayan red rice, use 1½ cups water. Long-grain brown basmati would be in keeping with the Indian tradition.

1 tablespoon canola oil or ghee

1 tablespoon chopped ginger

1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Indian Red Rice Pulao with Pistachios

1 cup red rice or brown basmati rice

2 cups water

1 medium carrot, sliced

2 tablespoons brown sugar or jaggery

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups cauliflower florets

½ cup dried currants

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 large scallions, slivered

½ cup shelled pistachios or toasted sliced almonds

In a 2-quart pot, heat the oil briefly over medium-high heat, then add the ginger and brown mustard seeds. When the ginger is fragrant and the seeds are popping a bit, add the chili powder and turmeric and cook for a few seconds more. Add the rice, water, carrot, brown sugar, and salt and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Set a timer for 35 minutes. When the timer goes off, quickly put the cauliflower and currants on top of the rice, put the lid back on, and cook for 10 more minutes.

Take the rice off the burner and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Fold in the lemon juice, and then serve topped with scallions and pistachios.

4 cups vegetable stock

½ large onion, chopped (1 cup)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup pearled barley, washed and rinsed

½ cup white wine

1 pound butternut squash, baked and puréed (1 cup)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon salt

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Creamy Winter Squash and Barley Risotto with Red Bell Pepper Coulis

PEARLED BARLEY MAKES A GREAT RISOTTO, spilling its healthful starches into a broth and never overcooking. Hulled barley needs more time and some vigorous stirring to break out the contents of the grain. Short rices and grains in the wheat family would also be delicious in this recipe. I dress it up with a brilliant red pepper coulis, which is just a fancy name for a puréed sauce. You can skip the sauce for simplicity, or serve it this way as a main dish with a round of chèvre or a few garlicky sautéed shrimp on top.

COULIS

2 medium red bell peppers, chopped

1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained and excess liquid squeezed out

1 cup vegetable stock

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon dried dill

½ teaspoon salt

Dash of cayenne

6 whole basil leaves, for garnish

Heat the stock in a 2-quart saucepan. In a large, heavy frying pan with a lid, sauté the onion in the olive oil over medium heat, just to soften. Add the washed barley, stir to coat with oil, and keep stirring until it is hot to the touch. Add the wine and 3 cups of the simmering stock. Cover the pan and set a timer for 40 minutes. Stir occasionally and keep simmering gently. After 40 minutes, the barley should be soft and swimming in thickened stock. Add the remaining hot stock ½ cup at a time, simmering until it is absorbed. If all the stock has been absorbed and the barley is still firm or dry, add water. When the barley is creamy, add the squash, thyme, pepper, and salt. Simmer for 5 minutes, adding liquid as needed for a good consistency. Stir in the cheese, cover, and keep warm until serving.

While making the risotto, make the coulis. In a medium saucepan, bring the bell peppers, tomatoes, and 1 cup stock to a boil, then cover and reduce to a strong simmer for 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and let cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a blender. Put a folded towel over the lid of the blender as you purée, to prevent any hot liquids from splashing out on your hands. Purée the bell pepper mixture, then add the honey, vinegar, dill, salt, and cayenne and process to mix.

On each plate, place a cup of risotto, and ladle ½ cup of the coulis around it. Serve with a fresh basil garnish.

SUPPLÌ IN ITS ORIGINAL FORM IS A WAY TO USE UP LEFTOVER RISOTTO, and you can make it with any cooked sticky grain. For a simpler cooking process, it can be made into one large, flat cake, instead of little balls. I am lucky enough to be able to get whole wheat panko, a really crisp, large-grained breadcrumb in the Japanese style. Just use coarse, dry breadcrumbs if you can’t find it.

Brown Rice Risotto Supplì with Creamy Spinach Sauce

RISOTTO

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup minced onion

1 cup short-grain brown rice

3 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

6 sun-dried tomatoes, softened and chopped

SAUCE

½ cup chopped onion

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unbleached white flour

1 cup milk

4 cups fresh spinach, and dried

½ cup fresh basil leaves

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour or unbleached white flour

3 eggs, beaten

2 cups whole wheat panko or dry breadcrumbs

½ cup olive oil

To make the risotto, in a 4–quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onion over medium heat until soft and clear. Add the rice, and stir to coat thoroughly. Add 2 cups of the stock and the salt, bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Uncover, and begin stirring in more stock as needed to make a soft, sticky risotto. Keep cooking and stirring after each addition until you have a thick texture. Take the pan off the heat, add the Parmesan and tomatoes, and chill.

Prepare the sauce before frying the supplì. In a small saucepan, sauté the onion in the olive oil until the onion is soft and clear. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking, for 2 to 3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, and gradually whisk in the milk. Cook, whisking, until thickened. Put the spinach and basil in a food processor and mince thoroughly. Pour in the hot milk mixture and purée. Add salt and pepper to taste, then return the sauce to the pan to warm just before serving.

To assemble the supplì, form the cold risotto into balls, using 2 tablespoons for each one. Dredge them in the flour, then the egg, then the crumbs. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan until it shimmers, and fry the supplì until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels, and serve hot, with the sauce.

2 small Sweet Dumpling squash or acorn squash, 6 inches or less in diameter

½ cup wild rice

1½ cups water

3 tablespoons fresh sage

½ cup fresh parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 stalks celery, minced

½ large onion, chopped (1 cup)

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

Pinch of ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

¾ cup pecan halves

Pecan and Wild Rice–Stuffed Squash

THESE TINY, ONE-SERVING SQUASHES ARE GOOD CONTAINERS for savory flavors. This classic dish is a great way to use wild rice, but buckwheat and quinoa would also be delicious. The nuts really bring out the nutty qualities in the rice.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil 2 baking sheets. Cut each squashes in half from the stem to the tip. Scoop out the seeds and place cut-side down on the baking sheets. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until easily pierced with a paring knife. Let cool. Reduce the oven heat to 375°F.

In a medium saucepan, cook the wild rice in the water, simmering until it is tender and starting to split. If there is any excess water, drain the rice in a strainer. Finely chop the sage and parsley. In a small sauté pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the celery, onion, and sage over medium heat until just softened. Stir in the parsley, marjoram, pepper, nutmeg, and salt, and take the pan off the heat.

When the squash halves are cool, use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, leaving a bit behind to keep the skins from tearing. In a large bowl, mash the flesh coarsely and reserve. Select 16 intact pecan halves for garnish, then use a food processor to grind the remaining pecans to powder. Add the ground pecans, the sautéed mixture, and the wild rice to the squash in the bowl and mix thoroughly. Stuff the mixture into the squash shells and top with the reserved pecan halves. Place in a casserole or baking dish large enough to hold all of the squash halves. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the tops feel firm to the touch.

MAKING GNOCCHI MAY SEEM LIKE A DAUNTING TASK, but I look at it this way: It requires no pasta-making skills, only rudimentary snake-rolling and cutting. It cooks quickly and is incredibly comforting and satisfying. You can make it casually, in all different sizes and shapes, and because it is cooked when it floats, there is no timing problem. This is a big batch—the gnocchi alone is 6 cups—so feel free to halve it.

Whole Wheat Potato Gnocchi with Truffle Oil Mushrooms

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

1 teaspoon salt

About 1¾ cups whole wheat pastry flour

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling the gnocchi

2 tablespoons fresh sage

8 ounces baby portobellos or wild mushrooms, sliced

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons truffle oil

In a medium saucepan, steam or boil the potatoes until tender, then peel them and put them through a ricer, or mash them very thoroughly while hot. You can rice them right onto the counter. Let cool completely to room temperature; do not chill.

Put a large pot of salted water on to boil.

When the potatoes are completely cool, add the 1 teaspoon salt, 1½ cups of the flour, the nutmeg, and Parmesan. Work it all together, and knead to make a pliable, soft dough. Add more flour as needed, trying to use as little as possible. If your potatoes are very moist, you may need more flour. To test your dough, pinch off a piece and form a ball, then drop it into the boiling water. If it does not dissolve, you have enough flour. Cook until it floats, and then scoop it out. Test and add more flour or salt to taste.

Divide the dough into 6 pieces, and roll each out on the counter to ¾-inch-thick snakes. Cut into ¾-inch slices and form ridges in each by pressing them across the tines of a fork, if desired. Put on a lightly floured tray.

Drop the gnocchi into the water, 12 at a time. When they rise to the surface and stay there, they are done. Fish them out with a slotted spoon or frying skimmer. Put them in a colander set over a bowl, and take to the sink. Gently drizzle warm water over them by the palmful, just to rinse off the starch. Drain and drizzle olive oil over them, then gently shake the colander in a circular motion to coat the gnocchi with oil. As you cook the remaining gnocchi, keep gently oiling them.

Chop the sage. In a large saute pan, sauté the mushrooms in ¼ cup olive oil over high heat. When they are tender, add the garlic and sage and sauté just until fragrant. Pour the finished gnocchi into the pan and swirl the pan to mix. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour the truffle oil over it all and serve. (To freeze, assemble the finished gnocchi in a casserole and cover tightly. Thaw in the refrigerator and bake to reheat.)