Welsh Springer Spaniel

If you visit a breeder and you are a bit doubtful about the puppies, the breeder or the conditions in which the puppies are kept, or if the breeder thinks that testing for hereditary defects is not necessary, do not buy the puppy! You must be 100% sure—buying because you are afraid to say no or because you feel sorry for the pup is wrong. After all, you are going to buy a companion for the next 12 to 14 years and you must be absolutely sure that he is the one you want and no other!

Should you want to buy a puppy for showing, discuss this with the breeder. The same goes for a future working dog. Also discuss with him what to do in case the puppy will not be showable. Unforeseen changes may happen as the pup grows, such as a bite that goes wrong. If it is a male, he may turn out to be monorchid (only one descended testicle), etc. If you are very determined to have a show-quality pup, you might do better to buy a more mature puppy, say six to seven months old, so that these risks cannot occur.

Nowadays puppies are often sold with sales contracts. This is fine, but do not sign on the spot. Before you proceed with your purchase, ask the breeder if you can take the contract home to read it carefully so that you know exactly what you are going to sign. Just as important as a sales contract is a good relationship between you and the breeder. A responsible, dedicated breeder will always be willing to answer all your questions, to calm your fears and to share your joys throughout your Welshie’s life.

A proud mother and her litter. These pups will not be ready to go to new homes until they are around eight weeks old.

You have found the breeder who has the type of Welsh Springer you like, and you feel that you can trust him. He lets you know when he has a litter available and there you are, surrounded by all these lovely puppies. How will you ever be able to choose? It is very tempting to let one of them choose you, but remember that this is not the best approach. Try to make your choice by a process of elimination. If you have decided that you want a bitch puppy, ask the breeder to take the male puppies away to make it a bit easier to choose. The litter usually contains a range of temperaments from the boisterous and bossy to the shy and submissive. Novice dog owners are best advised to choose a puppy whose temperament is somewhere in the middle. For selection purposes, ask the breeder to take the shy and the bossy puppies away. Now what you are looking for is a healthy, good-looking, happy little thing that, when you crouch down, will in no time be all over you, thinking you are great fun. Ask the breeder if you can meet the litter’s dam (and sire if possible) and see what her temperament is like. Discuss the pedigree with him so that you can make sure that your puppy comes from good stock.

THE FAMILY TREE

Your puppy’s pedigree is his family tree. Just as a child may resemble his parents and grandparents, so too will a puppy reflect the qualities, good and bad, of his ancestors, especially those in the first two generations. Therefore it’s important to know as much as possible about a puppy’s immediate relatives. Reputable and experienced breeders should be able to explain the pedigree and why they chose to breed from the particular dogs they used.

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Pups usually go to new homes between eight and ten weeks old. A ten-week-old Welsh Springer puppy should have a balanced head with a well-defined stop, a good reach of neck, good ribs and good, well-boned quarters with hocks well let down. Shoulders should be laid back, front legs straight. The feet should be catlike with thick pads. The set of the tail should be a little below the level of the back, and the tail should be carried straight with lively action. The puppy should have nice hazel or dark eyes. A good shiny coat is an indication of good health, as is a happy and exuberant temperament. The color should be a rich red and white.

• check the puppy’s stomach—if distended, it could indicate the wrong diet or worms;

• check that the puppy looks well on the day of collection—if not, arrange to return later;

• ask the breeder when the puppy was last wormed and when he should be wormed again;

• check whether the breeder would be willing to take the puppy back should this be necessary.

It may seem like a lot of effort and it will be very difficult to withstand all those appealing little spaniel faces, but you have to remember that you cannot be too careful when it comes to deciding on the type of dog you want and finding out about your prospective pup’s background. Buying a puppy is not—and should not be—just another whimsical purchase. In fact, this is one instance in which you actually do get to choose your own family!

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SIGNS OF A HEALTHY PUPPY

Healthy puppies are robust little fellows who are alert and active, sporting shiny coats and supple skin. They should not appear lethargic, bloated or pot-bellied, nor should they have flaky skin or runny or crusted eyes or noses. Their stools should be firm and well formed, with no evidence of blood or mucus.

By now you should understand what makes the Welsh Springer Spaniel a most unique and special dog, one that may fit nicely into your family and lifestyle. If you have researched breeders, you should be able to recognize a knowledgeable and responsible Welsh Springer Spaniel breeder who cares not only about his pups but also about what kind of owner you will be. If you have taken the next step in your new journey, you have found a litter, or possibly two, of quality Welsh Springer Spaniel pups.

A visit with the puppies and their breeder should be an education in itself. Breed research, breeder selection and puppy visitation are very important aspects of finding the puppy of your dreams. Beyond that, these things also lay the foundation for a successful future with your pup. We’ve mentioned that puppy personalities within each litter vary, from the shy and easygoing puppy to the one who is dominant and assertive, with other pups falling somewhere in between. By spending time with the puppies you will be able to recognize certain behaviors and what these behaviors indicate about each pup’s temperament. Which type of pup will complement your family dynamics is best determined by observing the puppies in action within their “pack.” Your breeder’s expertise and recommendations are so valuable. The breeder’s experience in rearing Welsh Springer Spaniel pups and matching their temperaments with appropriate humans offers the best assurance that your pup will meet your needs and expectations. The type of puppy that you select is just as important as your decision that the Welsh Springer Spaniel is the breed for you.

SELECTING FROM THE LITTER

Before you visit a litter of puppies, promise yourself that you won’t fall for the first pretty face you see! Decide on your goals for your puppy—show prospect, hunting dog, obedience competitor, family companion—and then look for a puppy who displays the appropriate qualities. In most litters, there is an alpha pup (the bossy puppy) and occasionally a shy fellow who is less confident, with the rest of the litter falling somewhere in the middle. “Middle-of-the-roaders” are safe bets for most families and novice competitors.

The decision to live with a Welsh Springer Spaniel is a serious commitment and not one to be taken lightly. This puppy is a living sentient being that will be dependent on you for basic survival for his entire life. Beyond the basics of survival—food, water, shelter and protection—he needs much, much more. The new pup needs love, nurturing and a proper canine education to mold him into a responsible, well-behaved canine citizen. Your Welsh Springer Spaniel’s health and good manners will need consistent monitoring and regular “tune-ups,” so your job as a responsible dog owner will be ongoing throughout every stage of his life. If you are not prepared to accept these responsibilities and commit to them for the dog’s entire life, then you are not prepared to own a dog of any breed.

Although the responsibilities of owning a dog may at times tax your patience, the joy of living with your Welsh Springer Spaniel far outweighs the workload, and a well-mannered adult dog is worth your time and effort. Before your very eyes, your new charge will grow up to be your most loyal friend, devoted to you unconditionally.

Just as expectant parents prepare a nursery for their baby, so should you ready your home for the arrival of your Welsh Springer Spaniel pup. If you have the necessary puppy supplies purchased and in place before he comes home, it will ease the puppy’s transition from the warmth and familiarity of his mom and littermates to the brand-new environment of his new home and human family. You will be too busy to stock up and prepare your house after your pup comes home, that’s for sure! Imagine how a pup must feel upon being transported to a strange new place. It’s up to you to comfort him and to let your little pup know that he is going to be happy with you!

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GETTING ACQUAINTED

When visiting a litter, ask the breeder for suggestions on how best to interact with the puppies. If possible, get right into the middle of the pack and sit down with them. Observe which pups climb into your lap and which ones shy away. Toss a toy for them to chase and bring back to you. It’s easy to fall in love with the first puppy who picks you, but keep your future objectives in mind before you make your final decision.

Your puppy will need separate bowls for his food and water. Stainless steel bowls are good, but the sturdy special spaniel bowls whose shape allows the dog’s ears to fall outside the bowl are popular choices. These bowls save you messy ears after food consumption and a wet floor after drinking! Plastic bowls are very chewable and therefore not advisable. Heavy-duty ceramic bowls are popular, but consider how often you will have to pick up those heavy bowls. Buy adult-sized bowls, as your puppy will grow into them before you know it.

If you think that crates are tools of punishment and confinement for when a dog has misbehaved, think again. Most breeders and almost all trainers recommend a crate as the preferred house-training aid as well as for all-around puppy training and safety. Because dogs are natural den creatures that prefer cave-like environments, the benefits of crate use are many. The crate provides the puppy with his very own “safe house,” a cozy place to sleep, take a break or seek comfort with a favorite toy; a travel aid to house your dog when on the road, at motels or at the vet’s office; a training aid to help teach your puppy proper toileting habits; and a place of solitude when non-dog people happen to drop by and don’t want a lively puppy—or even a well-behaved adult dog—saying hello or begging for attention.

PEDIGREE VS. REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE

Too often new owners are confused between these two important documents. Your puppy’s pedigree, essentially a family tree, is a written record of a dog’s genealogy of three generations or more. The pedigree will show you the names as well as performance titles of all dogs in your pup’s background. Your breeder must provide you with a registration application, with his part properly filled out. You must complete the application and send it to the AKC with the proper fee. Every puppy must come from a litter that has been AKC-registered by the breeder, born in the US and from a sire and dam that are also registered with the AKC.

The seller must provide you with complete records to identify the puppy. The AKC requires that the seller provide the buyer with the following: breed; sex, color and markings; date of birth; litter number (when available); names and registration numbers of the parents; breeder’s name; and date sold or delivered.

KEEP OUT OF REACH

Most dogs don’t browse around your medicine cabinet, but accidents do happen! The drug acetaminophen, the active ingredient in certain popular over-the-counter pain relievers, can be deadly to dogs and cats if ingested in large quantities. Acetaminophen toxicity, caused by the dog’s swallowing 15 to 20 tablets, can be manifested in abdominal pains within a day or two of ingestion, as well as liver damage. If you suspect your dog has swiped a bottle of medication, get the dog to the vet immediately so that the vet can induce vomiting and cleanse the dog’s stomach.

The three most popular crate types: mesh on the left, wire on the right and fiberglass on top.

Crates come in several types, although the wire crate and the fiberglass airline-type crate are the most popular. Both are safe and your puppy will adjust to either one, so the choice is up to you. The wire crates offer better visibility for the pup as well as better ventilation. Many of the wire crates easily fold into suitcase-size carriers. The fiberglass crates, similar to those used by the airlines for animal transport, are sturdier and more den-like. However, the fiberglass crates do not fold down and are less ventilated than wire crates; this can be problematic in hot weather. Some of the newer crates are made of heavy plastic mesh; they are very lightweight and fold up into slimline suitcases. However, a mesh crate might not be suitable for a pup with manic chewing habits.

Breeders start assessing show potential in the pups at an early age. This is “Gus,” Fairwinds Robert Augustus, seeing how he “stacks” up at six weeks of age.

Don’t bother with a puppy-sized crate. Although your Welsh Springer Spaniel will be a wee fellow when you bring him home, he will grow up in the blink of an eye and your puppy crate will be useless. Purchase a crate that will accommodate an adult Welsh Springer Spaniel. He will stand about 17–19 inches at the shoulder when fully grown, so choose a crate whose measurements will allow him to fully stand up, lie down and turn around.

Your puppy will enjoy some type of soft bedding in his “room” (the crate), something he can snuggle into to feel cozy and secure. Old towels or blankets are good choices for a young pup, since he may (and probably will) have a toileting accident or two in the crate or decide to chew on the bedding material. Once he is fully trained and out of the early chewing stage, you can replace the puppy bedding with a permanent crate pad if you prefer. Crate pads and other dog beds run the gamut from inexpensive to high-end doggie-designer styles, but don’t splurge on the good stuff until you are sure that your puppy is reliable and won’t tear it up or make a mess on it.

Just as infants and older children require objects to stimulate their minds and bodies, puppies need toys to entertain their curious brains, wiggly paws and achy teeth. A fun array of safe doggie toys will help satisfy your puppy’s chewing instincts and distract him from gnawing on the leg of your antique chair or your new leather sofa. Most puppy toys are cute and look as if they would be a lot of fun, but not all are necessarily safe or good for your puppy, so use caution when you go puppy-toy shopping.

Your breeder may have introduced the pups to a crate for short periods of time, giving new owners an advantage in crate training.

Enjoying the comforts of home, Fairwinds Fanny Bertha cuddles up. Puppies need to rest just as much as they need to play and explore.

Welshies can be chewers, especially while teething. The best “chewcifiers” are nylon and hard rubber bones, which are safe to gnaw on and come in sizes appropriate for all age groups and breeds. Be especially careful of natural bones, which can splinter or develop dangerous sharp edges; pups can easily swallow or choke on those bone splinters. Veterinarians often tell of surgical nightmares involving bits of splintered bone, because in addition to the danger of choking, the sharp pieces can damage the intestinal tract.

Similarly, rawhide chews, while a favorite of most dogs and puppies, can be equally dangerous. Pieces of rawhide are easily swallowed after they get soft and gummy from chewing, and dogs have been known to choke on pieces of ingested rawhide. Rawhide chews should be offered only when you can supervise the puppy.

Soft woolly toys are special puppy favorites. They come in a wide variety of cute shapes and sizes; some look like little stuffed animals. Puppies love to shake them up and toss them about or simply carry them around. Be careful of fuzzy toys that have button eyes or noses that your pup could chew off and swallow, and make sure that he does not disembowel a squeaky toy to remove the squeaker! Braided rope toys are similar in that they are fun to chew and toss around, but they shred easily and the strings are easy to swallow. The strings are not digestible and, if the puppy doesn’t pass them in his stool, he could end up at the vet’s office. As with rawhides, your puppy should be closely monitored with rope toys.

If you believe that your pup has ingested a piece of one of his toys, check his stools for the next couple of days to see if he passes the item when he defecates. At the same time, also watch for signs of intestinal distress. A call to your veterinarian might be in order to get his advice and be on the safe side.

Once your Welshie is house-trained, you can explore the wide range of dog beds available. Thomas (LEFT) and Kirby (RIGHT) are cozy in their plush beds.

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TOYS ‘R SAFE

The vast array of tantalizing puppy toys is staggering. Stroll through any pet shop or pet-supply outlet and you will see that the choices can be overwhelming. However, not all dog toys are safe or sensible. Most young puppies enjoy soft woolly toys that they can snuggle with and carry around. (You know they have outgrown them when they shred them up!) Avoid toys that have buttons, tabs or other enhancements that can be chewed off and swallowed. Soft toys that squeak are fun, but make sure your puppy does not disembowel the toy and remove (and swallow) the squeaker. Toys that rattle or make noise can excite a puppy, but they present the same danger as the squeaky kind and so require supervision. Hard rubber toys that bounce can also entertain a pup, but make sure that the toy is too big for your pup to swallow.

An all-time favorite toy for puppies (young and old!) is the empty gallon milk jug. Hard plastic juice containers—46 ounces or more—are also excellent. Such containers make lots of noise when they are batted about, and puppies go crazy with delight as they play with them. However, they don’t often last very long, so be sure to remove and replace them when they get chewed up.

A word of caution about homemade toys: be careful with your choices of non-traditional play objects. Never use old shoes or socks, since a puppy cannot distinguish between the old ones on which he’s allowed to chew and the new ones in your closet that are strictly off limits. That principle applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your puppy to chew.

A lightweight nylon collar is the best choice for a very young pup. Quick-click collars are easy to put on and remove, and they can be adjusted as the puppy grows. Introduce him to his collar as soon as he comes home to get him accustomed to wearing it. He’ll get used to it quickly and won’t mind it a bit. Make sure that it is snug enough that it won’t slip off, yet loose enough to be comfortable for the pup. You should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and his neck. Check the collar often, as puppies grow in spurts, and his collar can become too tight almost overnight.

A 6-foot nylon lead is an excellent choice for a young puppy. It is lightweight and not as tempting to chew as a leather lead. You can switch to a 6-foot leather lead after your pup has grown and is used to walking politely on a lead. For initial puppy walks and house-training purposes, you should invest in a shorter lead so that you have more control over the puppy. At first, you don’t want him wandering too far away from you, and when taking him out for toileting you will want to keep him in the specific area chosen for his potty spot.

COST OF OWNERSHIP

The purchase price of your puppy is merely the first expense in the typical dog budget. Quality dog food, veterinary care (sickness and health maintenance), dog supplies and grooming costs will add up to big bucks every year. Can you adequately afford to support a canine addition to the family?

How do you make a Welshie smile? It looks like some time outdoors and a fun toy to play with will do the trick!

Once the puppy is trained to heel with a traditional leash, you can consider purchasing a retractable lead. A retractable lead is excellent for walking adult dogs that are already leash-wise. This type of lead expands to allow the dog to roam farther away from you and explore a wider area when out walking, and also retracts when you need to keep him close to you.

The importance of puppy-proofing cannot be overstated. In addition to making your house comfortable for your Welsh Springer Spaniel’s arrival, you also must make sure that your house is safe for your puppy before you bring him home. There are countless hazards in the owner’s personal living environment that a pup can sniff, chew, swallow or destroy. Many are obvious; others are not. Do a thorough advance house check to remove or rearrange those things that could hurt your puppy, keeping any potentially dangerous items out of areas to which he will have access.

The dog-safety police are taking you on a house tour. Let’s go room by room and see how safe your own home is for your new pup. The following items are doggy dangers, so either they must be removed or the dog should be monitored or not have access to these areas.

Electrical cords are especially dangerous, since puppies view them as irresistible chew toys. Unplug and remove all exposed cords or fasten them beneath baseboards where the puppy cannot reach them. Veterinarians and firefighters can tell you horror stories about electrical burns and house fires that resulted from puppy-chewed electrical cords. Consider this a most serious precaution for your puppy and the rest of your family.

Scout your home for tiny objects that might be seen at a pup’s eye level. Keep medication bottles and cleaning supplies well out of reach, and do the same with waste baskets and other trash containers. It goes without saying that you should not use rodent poison or other toxic chemicals in any puppy area and that you must keep such containers safely locked up. You will be amazed at how many places a curious puppy can discover!

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TOXIC PLANTS

Plants are natural puppy magnets, but many can be harmful, even fatal, if ingested by a puppy or adult dog. Scout your yard and home interior and remove any plants, bushes or flowers that could be even mildly dangerous. It could save your puppy’s life. You can obtain a complete list of toxic plants from your veterinarian, at the public library or by looking online.

Once your house has cleared inspection, check your yard. A sturdy fence, well embedded into the ground, will give your dog a safe place to play and potty. Welsh Springer Spaniels are athletic dogs, so a 6-foot-high fence should be considered necesary as a safety precaution to contain an agile youngster or adult. Check the fence periodically for necessary repairs. If there is a weak link or space to squeeze through, you can be sure a determined Welsh Springer Spaniel will discover it.

The garage and shed can be hazardous places for a pup, as things like fertilizers, chemicals and tools are usually kept there. It’s best to keep these areas off limits to the pup. Antifreeze is especially dangerous to dogs, as they find the taste appealing and it takes only a few licks from the driveway to kill a dog, puppy or adult, small breed or large.

Having your puppy examined by the veterinarian and keeping current on the pup’s vaccinations are absolute necessities.

PUPPY SHOTS

Puppies are born with natural antibodies that protect them from most canine diseases. They receive more antibodies from the colostrum in their mother’s milk. These immunities wear off, however, and must be replaced through a series of vaccines. Puppy shots are given at 3- to 4-week intervals starting at 6 to 8 weeks of age through 12 to 16 weeks of age. Booster shots are given after one year of age, and every one to three years thereafter, depending on the vaccine.

A good veterinarian is your Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy’s best health-insurance policy. If you do not already have a vet, ask friends and experienced dog people in your area for recommendations so that you can select a vet before you bring your Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy home. Also arrange for your puppy’s first veterinary examination beforehand, since many vets do not have appointments immediately available and your puppy should visit the vet within a day or so of coming home.

It’s important to make sure that your puppy’s first visit to the vet is a pleasant and positive one. The vet should take great care to befriend the pup and handle him gently to make their first meeting a positive experience. The vet will give the pup a thorough physical examination and set up a schedule for vaccinations and other necessary wellness visits. Be sure to show your vet any health and inoculation records, which you should have received from your breeder. Your vet is a great source of canine health information, so be sure to ask questions and take notes. Creating a health journal for your puppy will make a handy reference for his wellness and any future health problems that may arise.

Your Welsh Springer Spaniel’s homecoming is an exciting time for all members of the family, and it’s only natural that everyone will be eager to meet him, pet him and play with him. However, for the puppy’s sake, it’s best to make these initial family meetings as uneventful as possible so that the pup is not overwhelmed with too much too soon. Remember, he has just left his dam and his littermates and is away from the breeder’s home for the first time. Despite his fuzzy wagging tail, he is still apprehensive and wondering where he is and who all these strange humans are. It’s best to let him explore on his own and meet the family members as he feels comfortable. Let him investigate all the new smells, sights and sounds at his own pace. Children should be especially careful to not get overly excited, use loud voices or hug the pup too tightly. Be calm, gentle and affectionate, and be ready to comfort him if he appears frightened or uneasy.

THE FIRST FAMILY MEETING

Your puppy’s first day at home should be quiet and uneventful. Despite his wagging tail, he is still wondering where his mom and siblings are! Let him make friends with other members of the family on his own terms; don’t overwhelm him. You have a lifetime ahead to get to know each other!

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Be sure to show your puppy his new crate during this first day home. Toss a treat or two inside the crate; if he associates the crate with food, he will associate the crate with good things. If he is comfortable with the crate, you can offer him his first meal inside it. Leave the door ajar so he can wander in and out as he chooses.

THE CRITICAL SOCIALIZATION PERIOD

Canine research has shown that a puppy’s 8th through 20th week is the most critical learning period of his life. This is when the puppy “learns to learn,” a time when he needs positive experiences to build confidence and stability. Puppies who are not exposed to different people and situations outside the home during this period can grow up to be fearful and sometimes aggressive. This is also the best time for puppy lessons, since he has not yet acquired any bad habits that could undermine his ability to learn.

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So much has happened in your Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy’s first day away from the breeder. He’s had his first car ride to his new home. He’s met his new human family and perhaps the other family pets. He has explored his new house and yard, at least those places where he is to be allowed during his first weeks at home. He may have visited his new veterinarian. He has eaten his first meal or two away from his dam and littermates. Surely that’s enough to tire out an eight-week-old Welsh Springer Spaniel pup…or so you hope!

It’s bedtime. During the day, the pup investigated his crate, which is his new den and sleeping space, so it is not entirely strange to him. Line the crate with a soft towel or blanket that he can snuggle into and gently place him into the crate for the night. Some breeders send home a piece of bedding from where the pup slept with his littermates, and those familiar scents are a great comfort for the puppy on his first night without his siblings.

He will probably whine or cry. The puppy is objecting to the confinement and the fact that he is alone for the first time. This can be a stressful time for you as well as for the pup. It’s important that you remain strong and don’t let the puppy out of his crate to comfort him. He will fall asleep eventually. If you release him, the puppy will learn that crying means “out” and will continue that habit. You are laying the groundwork for future habits. Some breeders find that soft music can soothe a crying pup and help him get to sleep.

The first 20 weeks of your Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy’s life are the most important of his entire lifetime. A properly socialized puppy will grow up to be a confident and stable adult who will be a pleasure to live with and a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

The importance of socialization cannot be overemphasized. Research on canine behavior has proven that puppies who are not exposed to new sights, sounds, people and animals during their first 20 weeks of life will grow up to be timid and fearful, even aggressive, and unable to flourish outside of their familiar home environment.

Socializing your puppy is not difficult and, in fact, will be a fun time for you both. Lead training goes hand in hand with socialization, so your puppy will be learning how to walk on a lead at the same time that he’s meeting the neighborhood. Because the Welsh Springer Spaniel is such a terrific breed, everyone will enjoy meeting “the new kid on the block.” Take him for short walks to the park and to other dog-friendly places where he will encounter new people, especially children. Puppies automatically recognize children as “little people” and are drawn to play with them. Just make sure that you supervise these meetings and that the children do not get too rough or encourage him to play too hard. An overzealous pup can often nip too hard, frightening the child and in turn making the puppy overly excited. A bad experience in puppyhood can impact a dog for life, so a pup that has a negative experience with a child may grow up to be shy or even aggressive around children.

Springers at play! A Welshie pup enjoys some rough-and-tumble with an English Springer Spaniel playmate.

Take your puppy along on your daily errands. Puppies are natural “people magnets,” and most people who see your pup will want to pet him. All of these encounters will help to mold him into a confident adult dog. Likewise, you will soon feel like a confident, responsible dog owner, rightly proud of your mannerly Welsh Springer Spaniel. In addition to meeting humans, your puppy must also be socialized with other dogs. Luckily, Welshies are not dog-aggressive; in fact, they are very friendly, even exuberant, around other dogs.

Be especially careful of your puppy’s encounters and experiences during the eight-to-ten-week-old period, which is also called the “fear period.” This is a serious imprinting period, and all contact during this time should be gentle and positive. A frightening or negative event could leave a permanent impression that could affect his future behavior if a similar situation arises.

Also make sure that your puppy has received his first and second rounds of vaccinations before you expose him to other dogs or bring him to places that other dogs may frequent. Avoid dog parks and other strange-dog areas until your vet assures you that your puppy is fully immunized and resistant to the diseases that can be passed between canines. Discuss safe early socialization with your breeder and vet, as some recommend socializing the puppy even before he has received all of his inoculations, depending on the puppy.

Like other canines, your puppy needs an authority figure, someone he can look up to and regard as the leader of his “pack.” His first pack leader was his dam, who taught him to be polite and not chew too hard on her ears or nip at her muzzle. He learned those same lessons from his littermates. If he played too rough, they cried in pain and stopped the game, which sent an important message to the rowdy puppy.

As puppies play together, they are also struggling to determine who will be the boss. Being pack animals, dogs need someone to be in charge. If a litter of puppies remained together beyond puppy-hood, one of the pups would emerge as the strongest one, the one who calls the shots.

Welsh puppy Fairwinds Red Sky at Night and a Borzoi friend each seem to think that the other makes a fine pillow.

Once your puppy leaves the pack, he will look intuitively for a new leader. If he does not recognize you as that leader, he will try to assume that position for himself. Of course, it is hard to imagine your adorable Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy trying to be in charge when he is so small and seemingly helpless. You must remember that these are natural canine instincts. Do not cave in and allow your pup to get the upper “paw”!

Just as socialization is so important during these first 20 weeks, so too is your puppy’s early education. He was born without any bad habits. He does not know what is good or bad behavior. If he does things like nipping and digging, it’s because he is having fun and doesn’t know that humans consider these things as “bad.” It’s your job to teach him proper puppy manners, and this is the best time to accomplish that—before he has developed bad habits, since it is much more difficult to “unlearn” or correct unacceptable learned behavior than to teach good behavior from the start.

Make sure that all members of the family understand the importance of being consistent when training their new puppy. If you tell the puppy to stay off the sofa and your daughter allows him to cuddle on the couch to watch her favorite television show, your pup will be confused about what he is and is not allowed to do. Have a family conference before your pup comes home so that everyone understands the basic principles of puppy training and the rules you have set forth for the pup, and agrees to follow them.

A puppy’s dam is often looked at as leader of the pack, which is the role you will assume in your Welshie pup’s new life.

The old saying that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is especially true when it comes to puppies. It is much easier to prevent inappropriate behavior than it is to change it. It’s also easier and less stressful for the pup, since it will keep discipline to a minimum and create a more positive learning environment for him. That, in turn, will also be easier on you!

Here are a few commonsense tips to keep your belongings safe and your puppy out of trouble:

• Keep your closet doors closed and your shoes, socks and other apparel off the floor so your puppy can’t get at them.

• Keep a secure lid on the trash container or put the trash where your puppy can’t dig into it. He can’t damage what he can’t reach!

• Supervise your puppy at all times to make sure he is not getting into mischief. If he starts to chew the corner of the rug, you can distract him instantly by tossing a toy for him to fetch. You also will be able to whisk him outside when you notice that he is about to piddle on the carpet. If you can’t see your puppy, you can’t teach him or correct his behavior.

Nipping at fingers and toes is normal puppy behavior. Chewing is also the way that puppies investigate their surroundings. However, you will have to teach your puppy that chewing anything other than his toys is not acceptable. That won’t happen overnight and at times puppy teeth will test your patience. However, if you allow nipping and chewing to continue, just think about the damage that a mature Welsh Springer Spaniel can do with a full set of adult teeth.

Whenever your puppy nips your hand or fingers, cry out “Ouch!” in a loud voice, which should startle your puppy and stop him from nipping, even if only for a moment. Immediately distract him by offering a small treat or an appropriate toy for him to chew instead (which means having chew toys and puppy treats handy or in your pockets at all times). Praise him when he takes the toy and tell him what a good fellow he is. Praise is just as or even more important in puppy training as discipline and correction.

Puppies also tend to nip at children more often than adults, since they perceive little ones to be more vulnerable and more similar to their littermates. Teach your children appropriate responses to nipping behavior. If they are unable to handle it themselves, you may have to intervene. Puppy nips can be quite painful and a child’s frightened reaction will only encourage a puppy to nip harder, which is a natural canine response. As with all other puppy situations, interaction between your Welsh Springer Spaniel puppy and children should be supervised.

TEETHING TIME

All puppies chew. It’s normal canine behavior. Chewing just plain feels good to a puppy, especially during the three- to five-month teething period when the adult teeth are breaking through the gums. Rather than attempting to eliminate such a strong natural chewing instinct, you will be more successful if you redirect it and teach your puppy what he may or may not chew. Correct inappropriate chewing with a sharp “No!” and offer him a chew toy, praising him when he takes it. Don’t become discouraged. Chewing usually decreases after the adult teeth have come in.

To discourage improper chewing, be sure to provide plenty of safe chew toys and praise your dog for using them.

Chewing on objects, not just family members’ fingers and ankles, is also normal canine behavior that can be especially tedious (for the owner, not the pup) during the teething period when the puppy’s adult teeth are coming in. At this stage, chewing just plain feels good. Furniture legs and cabinet corners are common puppy favorites. Shoes and other personal items also taste pretty good to a pup.

The best solution is, once again, prevention. If you value something, keep it tucked away and out of reach. You can’t hide your dining-room table in a closet, but you can try to deflect the chewing by applying a bitter product made just to deter dogs from chewing. This spray-on substance is vile-tasting, although safe for dogs, and most puppies will avoid the forbidden object after one tiny taste. You also can apply the product to your leather leash if the puppy tries to chew on his lead during leash-training sessions.

Keep a ready supply of safe chews handy to offer your Welsh Springer Spaniel as a distraction when he starts to chew on something that’s a “no-no.” Remember, at this tender age he does not yet know what is permitted or forbidden, so you have to be “on call” every minute he’s awake and on the prowl.

DIGGING OUT

Some dogs love to dig. Others wouldn’t think of it. Digging is considered “self-rewarding behavior” because it’s fun! Of all the digging solutions offered by the experts, most are only marginally successful and none are guaranteed to work. The best cure is prevention, which means removing the dog from the offending site when he digs as well as distracting him when you catch him digging so that he turns his attentions elsewhere. That means that you have to supervise your dog’s yard time. An unsupervised digger can create havoc with your landscaping or, worse, run away!

You may lose a treasure or two during puppy’s growing-up period, and the furniture could sustain a nasty nick or two. These can be trying times, so be prepared for those inevitable accidents and comfort yourself in knowing that this too shall pass.

Although Welsh Springer Spaniel pups are not known to be notorious jumpers, they are still puppies after all, and puppies jump up—on you, your guests, your counters and your furniture. Just another normal part of growing up, and one you need to meet head-on before it becomes an ingrained habit.

The key to jump correction is consistency. You cannot correct your Welsh Springer Spaniel for jumping up on you today, then allow it to happen tomorrow by greeting him with hugs and kisses. As you have learned by now, consistency is critical to all puppy lessons.

For starters, try turning your back as soon as the puppy jumps. Jumping up is a means of gaining your attention and, if the pup can’t see your face, he may get discouraged and learn that he loses eye contact with his beloved master when he jumps up.

Leash corrections also work, and most puppies respond well to a leash tug if they jump. Grasp the leash close to the puppy’s collar and give a quick tug downward, using the command “Off.” Do not use the word “Down,” since “Down” is used to teach the puppy to lie down, which is a separate action that he will learn during his education in the basic commands. As soon as the puppy has backed off, tell him to sit and immediately praise him for doing so. This will take many repetitions and won’t be accomplished quickly, so don’t get discouraged or give up; you must be even more persistent than your puppy.

Another method used for jump correction is the spritzer bottle. Fill a spray bottle with water mixed with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar. As soon as puppy jumps, command him “Off” and spritz him with the water mixture. Of course, that means having the spray bottle handy whenever or wherever jumping usually happens.

Yet another method to discourage jumping is grasping the puppy’s paws and holding them gently but firmly until he struggles to get away. Wait a brief moment or two, then release his paws and give him a command to sit. He should eventually learn that jumping gets him into an uncomfortable predicament.

CONFINEMENT

It is wise to keep your puppy confined to a small “puppy-proofed” area of the house for his first few weeks at home. Gate or block off a space near the door he will use for outdoor potty trips. Expandable baby gates are useful to create your puppy’s designated area. If he is allowed to roam through the entire house or even only several rooms, it will be more difficult to house-train him.

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Children are major victims of puppy jumping, since puppies view little people as ready targets for jumping up as well as nipping. If your children (or their friends) are unable to dispense jump corrections, you will have to intervene and handle it for them.

Important to prevention is also knowing what you should not do. Never kick your Welsh Springer Spaniel (for any reason, not just for jumping) or knock him in the chest with your knee. That maneuver could actually harm your puppy very badly.

Puppies often cry and whine, just as infants and little children do. It’s their way of telling us that they are lonely or in need of attention. Your puppy will miss his littermates and will feel insecure when he is left alone. You may be out of the house or just in another room, but he will still feel alone. During these times, the puppy’s crate should be his personal comfort station, a place all his own where he can feel safe and secure. Once he learns that being alone is okay and not something to be feared, he will settle down without crying or objecting. You might want to leave a radio on while he is crated, as the sound of human voices can be soothing and will give the impression that people are around.

Give your puppy a favorite cuddly toy or chew toy to entertain him whenever he is crated. You will both be happier: the puppy because he is safe in his den and you because he is quiet, safe and not getting into puppy escapades that can wreak havoc in your house or cause him danger.

To make sure that your puppy will always view his crate as a safe and cozy place, never, ever use the crate as punishment. That’s the best way to turn the crate into a negative place that the pup will want to avoid. Sure, you can use the crate for your own peace of mind if your puppy is getting into trouble and needs some “time out.” Just don’t let him know that! Never scold the pup and immediately place him into the crate. Count to ten, give him a couple of hugs and maybe a treat, then scoot him into his crate.

It’s also important not to make a big fuss when he is released from the crate. That will make getting out of the crate more appealing than being in the crate, which is just the opposite of what you are trying to achieve.

THE FAMILY FELINE

A resident cat has feline squatter’s rights. The cat will treat the newcomer (your puppy) as she sees fit, regardless of what you do or say, so it’s best to let the two of them work things out on their own terms. Cats have a height advantage and will generally leap to higher ground to avoid direct contact with a rambunctious pup. Some will hiss and boldly swat at a pup who passes by or tries to reach the cat. Keep the puppy under control in the presence of the cat and they will eventually become accustomed to each other.

Here’s a hint: move the cat’s litter box where the puppy can’t get into it! It’s best to do so well before the pup comes home so the cat is used to the new location.