Welsh Springer Spaniel

The health of your dog has a lot to do with what you feed him. Therefore it is of the utmost importance to select the food that suits him best. Factors to be considered are his age, his condition and his activity level: is he a puppy or an adult; is he too thin or too fat; and is he an active working or competition dog or a pet with a quieter lifestyle?

Although there are dozens of brands, there are a few basic types of dog food: dry food, semi-moist food and canned food. Dry foods are the most common, and some owners will mix some canned or semi-moist food in with the dry or perhaps mix in some fresh meat, like chicken. Although some “people” foods, like chocolate, onions, nuts, raisins, grapes and quantities of garlic, are toxic to dogs and should not be given to your Welshie, most dogs will enjoy treats like green beans, a piece of apple or even lettuce. Do not offer your Welshie any food that is oily or spicy.

When selecting your dog’s diet, three stages of development must be considered: the puppy stage, the adult stage and the senior stage. Further, your puppy gets important nutrition before he comes home with you.

A most moving and wondrous sight occurs when the newborn puppy, still wet, blind, deaf and unable to walk, knows within minutes to find his way to his mother’s teats. The time a breeder cherishes is when the litter has been born and all of the puppies are suckling enthusiastically from their tired but very contented mom, who is still busy cleaning and drying them. Those first moments of drinking are very important, because this early milk contains colostrum, which helps to protect the puppies during the first five to six weeks of their lives. Although there are many excellent milk products available, there is nothing as good as mother’s milk. Should the mother for some reason not have sufficient milk or be unable to feed the pups, it is of the utmost importance that the breeder seeks the help of his vet to advise him what quality and quantity of milk to feed the puppies. Hand feeding puppies is a lot of work. Not only do the puppies have to be fed every two hours around the clock, but they need to be massaged after each feeding to stimulate their digestion and to have them produce stools.

NOT HUNGRY?

No dog in his right mind would turn down his dinner, would he? If you notice that your dog has lost interest in his food, there could be any number of causes. Dental problems are a common cause of appetite loss, one that is often overlooked. If your dog has a toothache, a loose tooth or sore gums from infection, chances are it doesn’t feel so good to chew. Think about when you’ve had a toothache! If your dog does not approach the food bowl with his usual enthusiasm, look inside his mouth for signs of a problem. Whatever the cause, you’ll want to consult your vet so that your chow hound can get back to his happy, hungry self as soon as possible.

A litter of seven will certainly keep a mother busy! The pups are getting proper nutrition from their mother’s milk.

Depending on the size of the litter and the quantity of milk that the mother has, weaning starts at two to three weeks, usually beginning with small portions of suitable solid food. Most breeders like to start with minced meat and a couple of days later with some milky food. Gradually the quantities and the number of meals are increased until the pups are six weeks old. Selection of the most suitable good-quality diet at this time is essential, for a puppy’s fastest growth rate is during the first year of life. Veterinarians or experienced breeders will be able to offer you good advice in this regard.

Puppy and junior diets should be well balanced for the needs of your dog so that except in certain circumstances additional vitamins, minerals and proteins will not be required.

SWITCHING FOODS

There are certain times in a dog’s life when it becomes necessary to switch his food; for example, from puppy to adult food and then from adult to senior-dog food. Additionally, you may decide to feed your pup a different type of food from what he received from the breeder, and there may be “emergency” situations in which you can’t find your dog’s normal brand and have to offer something else temporarily. Anytime a change is made, for whatever reason, the switch must be done gradually. You don’t want to upset the dog’s stomach or end up with a picky eater who refuses to eat something new. A tried-and-true approach is, over the course of about a week, to mix a little of the new food in with the old, increasing the proportion of new to old as the days progress. At the end of the week, you’ll be feeding his regular portions of the new food, and he will barely notice the change.

Young Welshies can sometimes be picky eaters, but it’s a phase they will outgrow.

When you decided to buy your puppy, the breeder probably instructed you on how to feed the puppy once you brought him home. If he didn’t, ask him. This is important for two reasons. First, coming to live in totally new surroundings with so many new experiences is already a stressful experience for the puppy, so a continuation of his diet will help him adjust. His tummy may be upset the first couple of days, or he may even refuse to eat for a day or two, but don’t worry about that. As soon as he is settled, he will eat again, especially if it’s the food that he is used to. Second, the breeder most likely has a lot of experience in feeding mature dogs and puppies and keeping them in a peak condition, so it would be wise to listen to his advice. Most breeders will provide you with an exact list of what to feed the puppy at each stage of his life, and we strongly advise you to follow these instructions. Once your puppy is a mature one- or two-year-old, you can change his diet to what is more convenient for you (availability, costs, etc.) but, with the growing puppy and youngster, stick to the breeder’s diet. And remember that if ten breeders are discussing the feeding of their dogs, you will hear ten different opinions, and all of them will be right!

DIET DON’TS

• Got milk? Don’t give it to your dog! Dogs cannot tolerate large quantities of cows’ milk, as they do not have the enzymes to digest lactose.

• You may have heard of dog owners who add raw eggs to their dogs’ food for a shiny coat or to make the food more palatable, but consumption of raw eggs too often can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin.

• Avoid feeding table scraps, as they will upset the balance of the dog’s complete food. Additionally, fatty or highly seasoned foods can cause upset canine stomachs.

• Do not offer raw meat to your dog. Raw meat can contain parasites; it also is high in fat.

• Vitamin A toxicity in dogs can be caused by too much liver, especially if the dog already gets enough vitamin A in his balanced diet, which should be the case.

• Bones like chicken, pork chop and other soft bones are not suitable, as they easily splinter.

Your puppy will need three or four meals a day until he is about nine months old; then you can cut back to two daily meals. Some people prefer to feed the adult dog once a day, but if your dog loves his food, he probably won’t go along with that! He might prefer to have a breakfast and a dinner. It also is healthier for a dog’s digestion to eat two smaller meals a day than one large daily portion.

Sometimes a Welsh Springer can be a finicky eater. Don’t make the mistake in trying to find out what he would like to eat, because that will most certainly worsen the problem. Give him the food you want him to eat and if he doesn’t eat it, take it away. Let him be hungry for a few hours and you will find that next time you feed him, he will approach his food bowl with more enthusiasm. It is important, though, that when he is eating poorly, the food he does eat is of the highest quality. Welshies can be poor eaters until they are 18 to 24 months old, and as a result be thin for some time. Don’t despair—your Welshie will eat and within a couple of years you have to be careful that he is not growing too fat!

A dog is considered an adult when he has stopped growing. The growth is in height and/or length. Do not consider the dog’s weight when the decision is made to switch from a puppy diet to an adult-maintenance diet. Again you should rely on your breeder’s advice. A Welsh Springer Spaniel generally reaches adulthood between two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half years of age, though some dogs are fully mature at two years old while others look their best when they are four.

Whatever you are going to feed your dog, don’t rely entirely on the quantities given in the manufacturer’s instructions. Every dog has different requirements, as in humans. Where one dog will grow fat on a smaller portion, another will need double the quantity. So it is best to “feed with your eyes.”

Factor treats into your dog’s overall daily caloric intake, and avoid offering table scraps, as this can encourage begging, cause an upset tummy and lead to overfeeding. Overweight dogs are more prone to health problems. Research has even shown that obesity takes years off a dog’s life. With that in mind, resist the urge to overfeed and over-treat. Don’t make unnecessary additions to your dog’s diet, whether with tidbits or with extra vitamins and minerals unless advised by your vet.

Healthy adult Welshies normally are eager eaters. If your dog seems uninterested in his food, something could be wrong.

The amount of food needed for proper maintenance will vary depending on the individual dog’s activity level, but you will be able to tell whether the daily portions are keeping him in good shape. With the wide variety of good complete foods available, choosing what to feed your adult Welshie is largely a matter of personal preference. Just as with the puppy, the adult dog should have consistency in his mealtimes and feeding place. In addition to a consistent routine, regular mealtimes also allow the owner to see how much his dog is eating. If the dog seems never to be satisfied or, likewise, becomes uninterested in his food, the owner will know right away that something is wrong and can consult the vet.

When you see gray on the muzzle, you know your Welshie is getting older. Consult your vet about possible dietary changes for your senior dog.

What does aging have to do with your dog’s diet? No, he won’t get a discount at the local diner’s early-bird special. Yes, he will require some dietary changes to accommodate the changes that come along with increased age. One change is that the older dog’s dietary needs become more similar to that of a puppy. Specifically, dogs can metabolize more protein as youngsters and seniors than in the adult-maintenance stage. When your Welshie is around eight years old, discuss with your vet whether you need to switch to a higher-protein or senior-formulated food or whether your current adult-dog food contains sufficient nutrition for the senior. Depending on the condition of the dog and the food he currently eats, the vet may or may not recommend a change.

Watching the dog’s weight remains essential, even more so in the senior stage. Here again, “feed with your eyes.” Older dogs are already more vulnerable to illness, and obesity only contributes to their susceptibility to problems. As the older dog becomes less active and thus exercises less, his regular portions may cause him to gain weight. At this point, you may consider decreasing his daily food intake or switching to a reduced-calorie food. As with other changes, you should consult your vet for advice.

THE BOVINE CANINE

Does your dog’s grazing in the back yard have you wondering whether he’s actually a farm animal in disguise? Many owners have noticed their dogs eating grass and wonder why! It is thought that dogs might eat grass to settle their stomachs or to relieve upset tummies. Even cats have been known to eat grass for the same reasons! Stomach upset can be caused by various things, including poor digestion and parasites.

Unfortunately, while the grass may make the dog feel better very temporarily, often they vomit shortly after eating it, as grass can be irritating to a dog’s stomach lining. Even worse, who knows what he is ingesting along with the grass? He could be swallowing insects, germs or parasites, thus perpetuating the problem. Grass-eating should be discouraged when you catch the dog in the act, and a trip to the vet to determine the underlying cause is in order.

As your dog gets older, few of his organs function up to par. The kidneys slow down and the intestines become less efficient. These age-related factors are often handled with a change in diet and a change in feeding schedule to give smaller portions that are more easily digested. There is no single best diet for every older dog; it is up to you and your vet to find out which diet suits your senior Welshie best.

QUENCHING HIS THIRST

Is your dog drinking more than normal and trying to lap up everything in sight? Excessive drinking has many different causes. Obvious causes for a dog’s being thirstier than usual are hot weather and vigorous exercise. However, if your dog is drinking more for no apparent reason, you could have cause for concern. Serious conditions like kidney or liver disease, diabetes and various types of hormonal problems can all be indicated by excessive drinking. If you notice your dog’s being excessively thirsty, contact your vet at once. Hopefully there will be a simpler explanation, but the earlier a serious problem is detected, the sooner it can be treated, with a better rate of cure.

Bring water along when you go places with your dog. Every dog will need to cool down after a vigorous romp at the dog park.

For a dog, it’s always time for a drink! Regardless of what type of food he eats, there’s no doubt that he needs plenty of water. Fresh cold water, in a clean bowl, should be available to your dog at all times. There are special circumstances, such as during puppy housebreaking, when you will want to monitor your pup’s water intake so that you will be able to predict when he will need to relieve himself, but water must be available to him nonetheless. Water is essential for hydration and proper body function just as it is in humans.

You will get to know how much your dog typically drinks in a day. Of course, in the heat or if exercising vigorously, he will be more thirsty and will drink more. However, if he begins to drink noticeably more water for no apparent reason, this could signal any of various problems, and you are advised to consult your vet.

Here I come! A Welsh Springer will not need much encouragement to run off some of his sporting-dog energy.

Water is the best drink for dogs. Some owners are tempted to give milk from time to time or to moisten dry food with milk, but dogs do not have the enzymes necessary to digest the lactose in milk, which is much different from the milk that nursing puppies receive. Therefore stick with clean fresh water to quench your dog’s thirst, and always have it readily available to him.

You will find that your Welsh Springer Spaniel is a very sloppy drinker; he loves his water bowl and in his enthusiasm he will often put not only his mouth but also both front paws in the bowl. Or he will take one last mouthful of water and before swallowing it come to you to tell you how much he loves you! A special spaniel bowl may help you keep the kitchen floor clean by keeping the dog’s ears from getting in the water and dripping all over.

All dogs require some form of exercise, regardless of breed. A sedentary lifestyle is as harmful to a dog as it is to a person. The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a very lively and active breed that requires a lot of free exercise. He might like to come with you on a shopping expedition but what he needs is to run around free, preferably in exciting surroundings, like woods or fields, where he can develop his hunting instincts. That being said, you can understand the importance of your Welshie’s being taught to come to you reliably when called.

Owners often make mistakes in the exercise they give their dog. As the new puppy is an exciting thing, they often tend to give him too much exercise. It is only human to show off something you are very proud of, but it means that the small puppy is taken on too many walks. For a puppy up to six months, the yard is big enough. Take him to the park once a day to let him socialize and play with the other dogs for about 15 minutes. Once the puppy is about nine months old, you can extend the daily walks to an hour daily, and once he is a year old, his energy will be boundless.

We cannot stress the importance of exercise enough. It is essential to keep the dog’s body fit, but it is also essential to his mental well-being. A bored dog will find something to do, which often manifests itself in some type of destructive behavior. In this sense, it is essential for your mental well-being too!

By grooming, we mean keeping a dog clean and tidy for his overall health, comfort and appearance. The coat of a Welsh Springer Spaniel is naturally straight, flat and soft to the touch, never wiry or wavy. It is sufficiently dense to be waterproof, thornproof and weatherproof. The back of the forelegs, the hindlegs above the hocks, the chest and the underside of the body are moderately feathered. The ears and tail are lightly feathered. The color is a rich red and white; any pattern is acceptable and any white area may be flecked with red ticking.

You will find that this coat doesn’t need much care as long as the dog is healthy and is brushed and combed regularly, at least once a week but preferably more often. Because of the silky texture of the coat, the hairs can easily form tangles and mats but a thorough combing session will prevent that. Don’t worry when after a walk in bad weather your whiter-than-white Welshie comes home all muddy and dirty. After a bath and a good rub with a towel, you’ll find that he dries off in a warm room and the white is pearly white again. You will find that there really is no need to bathe him often.

The pet Welshie’s coat does not need much special care beyond regular brushing and combing and a little trimming to keep him looking tidy.

Brushing should ideally be done every day. It takes little time, but the daily attention is important for health reasons and, when you start with a puppy, for reasons of bonding with your dog and establishing control. Future show dogs need to become used to being examined and standing still, and the daily brushing sessions will help.

Daily brushing is effective for removing dead hair and stimulating the dog’s natural oils to add shine and a healthy look to the coat. The combing is necessary to prevent tangles from forming in such places as the armpits, behind the ears and in the feathers. At the same time you can check his ears, eyes and paws for cuts, thorns or any sign of infection.

Excess hair on the ears can easily be removed with the finger-and-thumb method, using rubber “thumblettes” to grip the hair.

For brushing, you can use a natural medium-hard bristle brush, a glove with a bristle brush or a slicker brush, but be careful with a slicker brush, because you can easily hurt his skin. You need a comb for his ears and feathers and for overall removal of dead hair.

The coat needs trimming, just once every three or four months. The coat on a Welshie’s body and head will stay flat and straight but his ears, throat, tail and feet will need trimming. You can always ask the breeder for help, and it is highly recommended and very rewarding if you learn to trim your dog yourself.

Although he doesn’t grow much coat the first seven or eight months of his life, the hair on his feet will grow rather quickly. If you remove this superfluous hair, he will not only look tidier but also will get used to having his feet trimmed at an early age. Untrimmed feet not only look untidy but can also be uncomfortable for the dog and bring a lot of dirt into the house. Trim the hair away between the pads on the undersides of the feet—cut level with the pads. Trim the hair between the toes; pull up the hair between the toes and cut downwards, and then cut around the feet.

Excess hair on the ears can be removed fairly easily from the ears by using a comb and pulling with your finger and thumb (you can use a surgical glove to have a better grip) or a trimming knife, the one with teeth (not with a razor blade in it). The hair on the edges can be removed by using thinning scissors. If you hold the ear near the edge with one hand and cut with the other, you will never cut in the dog’s ear, which is very sensitive and can bleed profusely if cut. Use thinning scissors to cut the hair behind and below the ears, around the ear opening and on the inside of the earflap.

The throat is trimmed as far down as the breastbone with thinning scissors. The feathering on the hocks is trimmed with thinning scissors. Superfluous hair on the body should always be pulled out with your finger and thumb. This sometimes can be a laborious and time-consuming process; however, if you cut corners and use clippers or scissors, you will find that you have spoiled his silky and flat coat forever.

Be prepared, though: no matter how often you brush and trim your Welsh Springer, he will shed his hair and you will always find white hairs in the house. You will have to either get used to it or teach him right from the start not to sit on your chair or lie in your bed!

Dogs do not need to be bathed as often as humans, but sometimes a bath will be necessary. It is therefore important that you accustom your pup to being bathed as a puppy so that he is used to it when he grows up. You will have to bathe your dog the day before a show, and most owners like to bathe their bitches after they have been in season.

Trim the hair between the footpads to keep the feet looking neat and to avoid irritation from excess hair.

Show Welshies need more extensive grooming than dogs kept solely as pets. Here Ch. Gingerwood Recount Ruckus prepares for the ring with the help of one of his owners, Anne Gilliam, and Beth Holmes.

Before you are going to bathe your dog, comb through his coat thoroughly to remove any tangles. Make sure that your dog has a good non-slip surface to stand on. Begin by wetting the dog’s coat. A shower or hose attachment is necessary for thoroughly wetting and rinsing the coat. Check the water temperature to make sure that it is neither too hot nor too cold. Put cotton balls in your Welshie’s ears so that there is no chance of water or soap getting into the ear canals.

Next, apply shampoo to the dog’s coat and work it into a good lather. You should purchase a shampoo that is made for dogs; do not use a product made for human hair. Wash the head last; you do not want shampoo to drip into the dog’s eyes while you are washing the rest of his body. Work the shampoo all the way down to the skin. You can use this opportunity to check the skin for any bumps, bites or other abnormalities. Do not neglect any area of the body—get all of the hard-to-reach places.

Once the dog has been thoroughly shampooed, he requires an equally thorough rinsing. Shampoo left in the coat can be irritating to the skin. Protect his eyes from the shampoo by shielding them with your hand and directing the flow of water in the opposite direction.

WATER SHORTAGE

No matter how well behaved your dog is, bathing is always a project! Nothing can substitute for a good warm bath, but owners do have the option of giving their dogs “dry” baths. Pet shops sell excellent products, in both powder and spray forms, designed for spot-cleaning your dog. These dry shampoos are convenient for touch-up jobs when you don’t have the time to bathe your dog in the traditional way.

Muddy feet, messy behinds and smelly coats can be spot-cleaned and deodorized with a “wet-nap”-style cleaner. On those days when your dog insists on rolling in fresh goose droppings and there’s no time for a bath, a spot bath can save the day. These pre-moistened wipes are also handy for other grooming needs like wiping faces, ears and eyes and freshening tails and behinds.

At the end of the bath, be prepared for your dog to shake out his coat—you might want to stand back, but make sure you have a hold on the dog to keep him from running through the house. Have several absorbent towels on hand to dry him off.

The ears should be kept clean and any excess hair inside the ear should be trimmed or gently plucked out. Ears can be cleaned with an ear cleaner made especially for dogs. Be on the lookout for any signs of infections or ear-mite infestation such as a foul odor or dark brown residue. During the summer look for grass seeds that may be picked up and can find their way into the ear canal. If your Welsh Springer Spaniel has been shaking his head or scratching at his ears frequently, this usually indicates a problem. Don’t try to deal with this yourself. If you poke into the ear canal, you’ll only succeed in aggravating things and can injure your dog. Contact your vet before the condition gets serious.

PRESERVING THOSE PEARLY WHITES

What do you treasure more than the smile of your beloved canine pal? Brushing your dog’s teeth is just as important as brushing your own. Neglecting your dog’s teeth can lead to tooth loss, periodontal disease and inflamed gums, not to mention bad breath. Can you find the time to brush your dog’s teeth every day? If not, you should do so once a week at the very least, though every day is truly the ideal. Your vet should give your dog a thorough dental examination during his annual check-ups. A dental scraping, as shown in the picture, may also be done by the vet if needed.

Pet shops sell terrific tooth-care devices, including specially designed toothbrushes, yummy toothpastes and finger-model brushes. You can use a human toothbrush with soft bristles, but never use human toothpastes, which can damage the dog’s enamel. Baking soda is an alternative to doggie toothpastes, but your dog will be more receptive to canine toothpastes with the flavor of liver or hamburger. Make tooth care fun for your dog. Let him think that you’re “horsing around” with his mouth. When brushing the dog’s teeth, begin with the largest teeth (the canines) and proceed back toward the molars.

Ears can be kept clean with an ear cleaner made especially for dogs and a soft cotton wipe. Be careful not to probe into the ear; clean only what you can see.

Your pet shop will have special clippers for trimming your Welshie’s nails. Shown here are the popular guillotine-style clippers.

If you check your spaniel’s ears regularly and use the ear cleaner when the ears don’t look 100% clean, you will find that the spaniel’s reputation for ear trouble is totally unfounded.

Having their nails trimmed is not on many dogs’ lists of favorite things to do. With this in mind, you will need to accustom your puppy to the procedure at a young age so that he will sit still (well, as still as he can) for his pedicures. Long nails can cause the dog’s feet to spread, which is not good for him; likewise, long nails can hurt if they unintentionally scratch, not good for you!

Some dogs’ nails are worn down naturally by regular walking on hard surfaces, so the frequency with which you clip depends on your individual dog. Look at his nails from time to time and clip as needed; a good way to know when it’s time for a trim is if you hear your dog clicking as he walks across the floor.

There are several types of nail clippers and even electric nail-grinding tools made for dogs; first we’ll discuss using the clipper. To start, have your clipper ready and some doggie treats on hand. You want your pup to view his nail-clipping sessions in a positive light, and what better way to convince him than with food? You may want to enlist the help of an assistant to comfort the pup and offer treats as you concentrate on the clipping itself. The guillotine-type clipper is thought of by many as the easiest type to use; the nail tip is inserted into the opening, and blades on the top and bottom snip it off in one clip.

Start by grasping the pup’s paw; a little pressure on the foot pad causes the nail to extend, making it easier to clip. Clip off a little at a time. If you can see the “quick,” which is a blood vessel that runs through each nail, you will know how much to trim, as you do not want to cut into the quick. On that note, if you do cut the quick, which will cause bleeding, you can stem the flow of blood with a styptic pencil or other clotting agent. If you mistakenly nip the quick, do not panic or fuss, as this will cause the pup to be afraid. Simply reassure the pup, stop the bleeding and move on to the next nail. Don’t be discouraged; you will become a professional canine pedicurist with practice.

SCOOTING HIS BOTTOM

Here’s a doggy problem that many owners tend to neglect. If your dog is scooting his rear end around the carpet, he probably is experiencing anal-sac impaction or blockage. The anal sacs are the two grape-sized glands on either side of the dog’s anus. The dog cannot empty these glands, which become filled with a foul-smelling material. The dog may attempt to lick the area to relieve the pressure. He may also rub his anus on your walls, furniture or floors.

Don’t neglect your dog’s rear end during grooming sessions. By squeezing both sides of the anus with a soft cloth, you can express some of the material in the sacs. If the material is pasty and thick, you likely will need the assistance of a veterinarian. Vets know how to express the glands and can show you how to do it correctly without hurting the dog or spraying yourself with the unpleasant liquid.

You may or may not be able to see the quick, so it’s best to just clip off a small bit at a time. If you see a dark dot in the center of the nail, this is the quick and your cue to stop clipping. Tell the puppy he’s a “good boy” and offer a piece of treat with each nail. You can also use nail-clipping time to examine the footpads, making sure that they are not dry and cracked and that nothing has become embedded in them.

The nail grinder, the other choice, is many owners’ first choice. Accustoming the puppy to the sound of the grinder and sensation of the buzz presents fewer challenges than the clipper, and there’s no chance of cutting through the quick. Use the grinder on a low setting and always talk soothingly to your dog. He won’t mind his salon visit, and he’ll have nicely polished nails as well.

You love your Welsh Springer Spaniel and want to keep him safe. Of course you take every precaution to prevent his escaping from the yard or becoming lost or stolen. You have a sturdy high fence and you always keep your dog on lead when out and about in public places. If your dog is not properly identified, however, you are overlooking a major aspect of his safety. We hope to never be in a situation where our dog is missing, but we should practice prevention in the unfortunate case that this happens; identification greatly increases the chances of your dog’s being returned to you.

There are several ways to identify your dog. First, the traditional dog tag should be a staple in your dog’s wardrobe, attached to his everyday collar. Tags can be made of sturdy plastic and various metals and should include your contact information so that a person who finds the dog can get in touch with you right away to arrange his return. Many people today enjoy the wide range of decorative tags available, so have fun and create a tag to match your dog’s personality. Of course, it is important that the tag stays on the collar, so have a secure “O” ring attachment; you also can explore the type of tag that slides right onto the collar.

In addition to the ID tag, which every dog should wear even if identified by another method, two other forms of identification have become popular: microchipping and tattooing. In microchipping, a tiny scannable chip is painlessly inserted under the dog’s skin. The number is registered to you so that, if your lost dog turns up at a veterinary clinic or a shelter, the chip can be scanned to retrieve your contact information.

The advantage of the microchip is that it is a permanent form of ID, but there are some factors to consider. Several different companies make microchips, and not all are compatible with the others’ scanning devices. It’s best to find a company with a universal microchip that can be read by scanners made by other companies as well. It won’t do any good to have the dog chipped if the information cannot be retrieved. Also, not every humane society, shelter and clinic is equipped with a scanner, although more and more facilities are equipping themselves. In fact, many shelters microchip dogs that they adopt out to new homes.

PET OR STRAY?

Besides the obvious benefit of providing your contact information to whoever finds your lost dog, an ID tag makes your dog more approachable and more likely to be recovered. A strange dog wandering the neighborhood without a collar and tags will look like a stray, while the collar and tags indicate that the dog is someone’s pet. Even if the ID tags become detached from the collar, the collar alone will make a person more likely to pick up the dog.

Because the microchip is not visible to the eye, the dog must wear a tag that states that he is microchipped so that whoever picks him up will know to have him scanned or to call the microchip registry. He of course also should have a tag with your contact information in case his chip cannot be read. Humane societies and veterinary clinics offer microchipping service, which is usually very affordable.

Though less popular than microchipping, tattooing is another permanent method of ID for dogs. Most vets perform this service, and there are also clinics that perform dog tattooing. This is also an affordable procedure and one that will not cause much discomfort for the dog. It is best to put the tattoo in a visible area, such as the ear or the groin area, to deter theft. It is sad to say that there are cases of dogs being stolen and sold to research laboratories, but such laboratories will not accept tattooed dogs.

To ensure that the tattoo is effective in aiding your dog’s return to you, the tattoo number must be registered with a national organization. That way, when someone finds a tattooed dog, a phone call to the registry will quickly match the dog with his owner.

If you are lucky the breeder has already taken the puppies in his car for a visit to the vet or just for a ride, so that when you come to take your puppy home he knows what it is like to be in a car. You will find that most spaniels love to ride in the car.

FEEDING IN HOT WEATHER

Even the most dedicated chow hound may have less of an appetite when the weather is hot or humid. If your dog leaves more of his food behind than usual, adjust his portions until the weather and his appetite return to normal. Never leave the uneaten portion in the bowl, hoping he will return to finish it, because higher temperatures encourage food spoilage and bacterial growth.

The back of this car has been partitioned off to give the dogs a safe area in which to ride and to keep them from disturbing the driver.

The best way to accustom your puppy to traveling in the car is by doing it gradually. Start by putting the puppy in the car in his crate while you sit behind the steering wheel. Talk to him and tell him how much he will enjoy this. Repeat this the next day and start the car; let the engine run for a couple of minutes. The next day you should drive around the block and, day by day, slowly extend your trips. Start to take him on your errands or just for drives around town. By this time it will be easy to tell whether your dog is a born traveler or would prefer staying at home when you are on the road.

Car travel with your Welsh Springer Spaniel may be limited to necessity only, such as trips to the vet, or you may bring your dog along almost everywhere you go. This will depend much on your individual dog and how he reacts to rides in the car. You can begin desensitizing your dog to car travel as a pup so that it’s something that he’s used to. Still, some dogs suffer from motion sickness. Your vet may prescribe a medication for this if trips in the car pose a problem for your dog. At the very least, you will need to get him to the vet, so he will need to tolerate these trips with the least amount of hassle possible.

Of course, safety is a concern for dogs in the car. First, he must travel securely, not left loose to roam about the car where he could be injured or distract the driver. A young pup can be held by a passenger initially but should soon graduate to a travel crate, which can be the same crate he uses in the home if it fits in your car. Other options include a car harness (like a seat belt for dogs) and partitioning the back of the car with a gate made for this purpose.

Bring along what you will need for the dog. He should wear his collar and ID tags, of course, and you should bring his leash, water (and food if a long trip) and clean-up materials for potty breaks and in case of motion sickness. Always keep your dog on his leash when you make stops, and never leave him alone in the car. Many a dog has died from the heat inside a closed car; this does not take much time at all. Leaving windows cracked open is unsafe too, as the dog could try to escape or could become a target for thieves.

Today there are many options for dog owners who need someone to care for their dogs in certain circumstances. While many think of boarding their dogs as something to do when away on vacation, many others use the services of doggie “daycare” facilities, dropping their dogs off to spend the day while they are at work. Many of these facilities offer both long-term and daily care. Many go beyond just boarding and cater to all sorts of needs, with on-site grooming, veterinary care, training classes and even “web-cams” where owners can log onto the Internet and check out what their dogs are up to. Most dogs enjoy the activity and time spent with other dogs.

Before you need to use such a service, check out the ones in your area. Make visits to see the facilities, meet the staff, discuss fees and available services and see whether this is a place where you think your dog will be happy. It is best to do your research in advance so that you’re not stuck at the last minute, forced into making a rushed decision without knowing whether the kennel that you’ve chosen meets your standards. You also can check with your vet’s office to see whether they offer boarding for their clients or can recommend a good kennel in the area.

The kennel will need to see proof of your dog’s health records and vaccinations so as not to spread illness from dog to dog. Your dog also will need proper identification. Owners usually experience some separation anxiety the first time they have to leave their dog in someone else’s care, so it’s reassuring to know that the kennel you choose is run by experienced, caring, true dog people.