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CARDS
Matt Goulding
On an island of heartbreaking villages, Ragusa breaks the hardest. It’s not just the old city that rises like a baroque stone staircase above a valley of green, or the storied history that brought wave after wave of would-be conquerors, or the fact that, block for block, it’s one of the most delicious towns in Italy. It’s the whole damn package.
RISTORANTE DUOMO
Ciccio Sultano is the island’s mad genius chef, and Ristorante Duomo is the lab where he stretches the boundaries of modern Sicilian cuisine. Expect the unexpected.
PANIFICIO GIUMMARRA
You’ll find Ragusa’s handheld hero scaccia, a pizza roll-up with geologic layers of bright tomato sauce and caciocavallo cheese, everywhere in town, but this is the one you want.
GELATI DIVINI
Sicilians may not have invented ice cream (credit is due, as is so often the case, to the Arabs), but they did perfect it. Divini specializes in wine-based flavors, but does everything well.
LA CASA DEL GELSOMINO
A hall-of-fame B&B, with a lush terraced garden, stunning views from nearly every angle, and a breakfast that will be the high point of your day.