Wholegrain Mustard

I started making my own wholegrain mustard last year, not long after I came back from France. The pockets of my suitcase were brimming with little jars of yellow gold from shops all over Paris. Before I knew it, I’d given them all away or used them all up. Instead of replacing them, I decided to take a shot at making my own.

It took me a while to figure out a ratio of yellow to brown mustard seeds that I liked. In the end, I hit upon a formula that I make often. It is a straightforward mustard with cracked mustard seeds, champagne vinegar, and a kiss of honey. It’s feisty, but hopefully not too feisty, and it makes a good impression slathered on sandwiches, baked into tart shells, whisked into crème fraîche, or enjoyed on its own. Keep in mind, you do need to age it for a couple weeks before enjoying it—this seems to allow some of the spiciness to dissipate and the flavours to meld.

70 g yellow mustard seeds

45 g brown mustard seeds

45 g powdered mustard

230 ml cold water

90 ml good-quality champagne vinegar, plus more if needed

70 g honey, plus more if needed

1 ½ teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more if needed

Use a mortar and pestle to crush the mustard seeds. It takes some time and some muscle, but I try to keep going until about two-thirds of the seeds are crushed, and the remaining seeds are whole.

Use a fork to mix together the powdered mustard and water in a bowl. Mix in the vinegar, honey, and salt. Then mix in the mustard seeds. The mixture will seem thin, but don’t worry about it. Cover and store the mustard in the refrigerator for a couple of days, long enough for it to thicken up. Stir and transfer to little jars if you like, then store in the refrigerator for at least 2 weeks before using. At this point, the flavours should have mellowed and come together nicely, but feel free to adjust with a bit more honey, salt, or vinegar. The mustard will keep for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.

MAKE ABOUT 425 G