Sugar and Spice

Sweet and fragrant, this rub flavors some of our favorite grilled pork dishes. Turbinado sugar—a crystallized, lighter version of brown sugar—contributes a coarse texture to the mix that enhances its crusting effect.

 

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

 

3	tablespoons ground allspice
2	tablespoons turbinado sugar or 1 tablespoon sugar
1½	tablespoons kosher salt or other coarse salt
1	tablespoon ground dried mild red chile, such as New Mexican
1	tablespoon ground cinnamon
1	tablespoon fresh-ground black pepper
1½	teaspoons ground white pepper

Mix the spices in a small bowl. Store the rub covered in a cool, dark pantry or freezer.

 

TECHNIQUE TIP: In spite of the conventional wisdom, sugar and fire don't always equal incineration. Sugar and naturally sweet foods such as oranges or tomatoes will burn over time at high temperatures, but when you use them properly in a dry rub, marinade, or glaze, they can produce a delightful caramelized crunch on grilled foods. If you keep the quantities proportionately small, cook the food only briefly, or grill over moderate heat, the sweetening contributes to a chewy, lightly charred, deeply flavored crust. The effect is similar to what happens with crème brûlée, where the sugar topping melts down to a rich, brown caramel under a direct flame.