Piedmont Porkers

This burger is inspired by slow-smoked barbecue, the only kind that merits the name in the Piedmont region of North Carolina. Using pork preferably ground from the shoulder, the traditional cut, we cover the meat in Lexington red slaw, as the pitmasters do locally in a real BBQ sandwich.

 

SERVES 4

 

RED SLAW

 

½	cup Enriched Mayonnaise ([>]) or other mayonnaise
1½	tablespoons thin, not too sweet, tomato-based barbecue sauce
1 to 1½	tablespoons sugar
½	tablespoon Quintessential Ketchup ([>]) or other ketchup
½	tablespoon cider vinegar
½	teaspoon salt, or more to taste
½	medium head green or red cabbage, shredded

ALL-'ROUND RUB

1½	tablespoons paprika
1½	teaspoons coarse-ground black pepper
1½	teaspoons kosher salt or other coarse salt
¾	teaspoon chili powder
½	teaspoon packed brown sugar
	Pinch of cayenne, optional
1½	pounds ground pork, preferably from the shoulder
2	tablespoons buttermilk or milk
8	slices sturdy sourdough bread

Prepare the slaw. In a lidded jar, shake together the mayonnaise, barbecue sauce, sugar, ketchup, vinegar, and salt until well blended. Place the cabbage in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over the cabbage and toss together. For the best flavor, chill the slaw for at least 1 hour. (It can be made several days ahead.)

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Prepare the dry rub, combining the ingredients in a small bowl.

In a medium bowl, mix together the pork, milk, and 2 teaspoons of the dry rub. Gently form the mixture into four patties, approximately ½ to ¾ inch thick. The patties should hold together firmly, but don't compact them or handle them any longer than necessary. Coat the patties with the rub, using at least two-thirds of it and more if you're a real rub fan.

Grill the burgers uncovered over medium heat for about 6 minutes per side, turning once. The burgers are done when medium-brown and crisp with a fully cooked interior. If grilling covered, cook for about 10 minutes, turning once midway. Toast the bread at the edge of the grill if you wish.

Serve the burgers on the bread, generously topped with the slaw. Lightly squeeze the buns so that the meat juices and sauce mingle. On the side, try some Olive Oil Dills or other crunchy pickles, and Hoppin' John Salad with Tabasco Vinaigrette.