Basil and Sage T-Bone

We first tried marinating this hearty T-bone in a fresh basil and sage mixture, but discovered that a dried-herb rub flavored the meat more effectively for grilling. Now we save the fresh seasonings—two of summer's liveliest—for an herb butter that we serve with the steak.

 

SERVES 4 OR MORE

 

BASIL AND SAGE DRY RUB

3	tablespoons dried basil
1½	tablespoons dried sage
1	tablespoon kosher salt or other coarse salt
1	teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper
4	1- to 1¼-pound T-bone steaks, about 1 to 1¼ inches thick, at least choice grade

BASIL AND SAGE BUTTER

6	tablespoons unsalted butter
2	tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼	cup packed fresh sage leaves
¼	cup packed fresh basil leaves
1	teaspoon mashed anchovy fillet, preferably, or anchovy paste (see Technique Tip)
	Basil and sage sprigs, optional, for garnish

At least 2½ hours and up to 12 hours before you plan to grill the steaks, prepare the dry rub, combining the ingredients in a small bowl. Coat the steaks thoroughly with the rub, wrap them in plastic, and refrigerate.

Prepare the herb butter, combining the butter, oil, sage, and basil in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes. Let the butter sit for another 10 minutes at room temperature to steep. Strain the butter, and while still hot, mash the anchovy into the butter until dissolved. Reserve the butter.

Remove the steaks from the refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

When grilling T-bones, it's important to keep the smaller, more tender section of the steak angled away from the hottest part of the fire. Grill the steaks uncovered over high heat for 2½ to 3 minutes per side. Move the steaks to medium heat, turning them again, and continue grilling for 2½ to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare doneness. The steaks should be turned a minimum of three times, more often if juice begins to form on the surface. If grilling covered, sear both sides of the meat first on high heat uncovered for 2½ to 3 minutes; finish cooking with the cover on over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning the steaks once midway.

Spoon the butter over the steaks and serve, garnished with basil and sage if you wish. We like to offer the steaks with Buttermilk Potato Casserole and a crunchy romaine salad.

 

TECHNIQUE TIP: Having grown up with pungent mass-market anchovies and cheap anchovy paste, the rich and much mellower anchovies common in Italy were a revelation on our first trip there. Salt-packed versions are a particular treat, now available in anincreasing number of American supermarkets or from Zingerman's in Ann Arbor, Michigan (313-769-1625). Italian oil-packed anchovies are our second choice, with fishy anchovy paste coming in dead last. Because the flavor of anchovies becomes harsh under direct high heat, use them in an accompanying butter for steaks rather than in a paste spread on the surface of the meat before cooking.