High Plains Buffalo Steak

You may not have a home where the buffalo roam, but the American bison is making a big comeback in many corners of the country, particularly the western Plains, where they once grazed in great numbers. After dwindling down to hundreds because of senseless slaughter, they now number in the hundreds of thousands, nearly doubling in population in the last ten years alone. The lean and beefy meat—not at all gamy—makes a splendid change from the usual steak, and it's an easy switch since the cuts are close to identical. We don't like most tomato sauces on fine steaks, but this zippy grilled-tomato vinaigrette brings out the best in both the meat and the fruit. Substitute a comparable beef steak here if you wish.

 

SERVES 4 OR MORE

 

4	8- to 10-ounce strip, rib eye, or sirloin buffalo steaks, about 1 inch thick
	Kosher salt or other coarse salt
	Fresh-ground black pepper

GRILLED TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

1	pound small tomatoes, preferably Italian plum
½	cup olive oil
2	tablespoons red wine vinegar
2	teaspoons unsulphured molasses
1	plump garlic clove
1	teaspoon ground cumin
1	teaspoon kosher salt or other coarse salt
½	teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper

Fire up the grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Salt and pepper the buffalo steaks, cover them, and let them sit at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.

Grill the tomatoes uncovered over high heat, turning occasionally until they are soft with brown, splitting skins and some black spots, about 10 to 12 minutes. If grilling covered, cook for about 8 to 10 minutes, turning once midway.

In a blender, combine the whole tomatoes—skins, cores, and all—with the remaining vinaigrette ingredients. purée, adjust the seasoning if necessary, and reserve the warm vinaigrette.

Grill the steaks uncovered over high heat for 2 to 2½ minutes per side. Move the steaks to medium heat, turning them again, and continue grilling for 2 to 2½ minutes per side for medium-rare doneness, when the lean meat tastes the best. The steaks should be turned a minimum of three times, more often if juice begins to form on the surface. If grilling covered, sear both sides of the meat first on high heat uncovered for 2 to 2½ minutes; finish the cooking with the cover on over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, turning once midway.

Serve the buffalo steaks hot, on pools of the glistening vinaigrette. Kathi Long's Stupendous Baked Beans make a worthy side dish. Any leftover vinaigrette can top romaine, simple grilled veggies, or slices of fresh mozzarella cheese.

 

TECHNIQUE TIP: Buffalo steaks of 12 ounces or larger, like prime beef, tend to go mostly to restaurants because of limited availability. Cuts like strip, rib eye, or sirloin available to consumers are generally 8 to 10 ounces. Because the meat is denser than beef, people tend to be satisfied with a smaller portion, too. The Denver Buffalo Company, approaching a decade in age, was the first to aggressively and consistently supply buffalo to restaurants and individuals, and it remains an excellent source. The company's meat, raised naturally, finished on grain, and USDA-inspected, can be found frozen in a growing number of supermarkets nationwide or can be ordered by mail (800-289-2833).