Pork Steak with Mrs. Dull's Lively Sauce

The food editor of the Atlanta Journal, Mrs. S. R. Dull presented the original version of the delightful sauce in this dish in her seminal 1928 Southern Cooking. We apply our adaptation of the vinegar-based sauce to pork steaks, but it invigorates any straightforward pork preparation.

 

SERVES 6

 

ALL-'ROUND DRY RUB

1½	tablespoons paprika
1½	teaspoons coarse-ground black pepper
1½	teaspoons kosher salt or other coarse salt
¾	teaspoon chili powder
½	teaspoon packed brown sugar
	Pinch of cayenne, optional
6	¾- to 1-inch-thick pork steaks, cut from the sirloin, about 10 to 12 ounces each

MRS. DULL'S LIVELY SAUCE

3	tablespoons butter
½	small onion, minced
1	garlic clove, minced
¾	cup cider vinegar
¾	cup water
5	tablespoons ketchup (see Technique Tip)
¼	cup chili sauce (the ketchup-style sauce)
1½	tablespoons Super Wooster Sauce ([>]) or other Worcestershire sauce
	Zest and juice of ½ lemon
½	teaspoon dry mustard
½	teaspoon kosher salt or other coarse salt

At least 1½ hours and up to 6 hours before you plan to grill, prepare the dry rub, combining the ingredients in a small bowl. Coat the pork with the dry rub, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate.

Prepare the sauce, first warming the bacon drippings in a heavy, nonre active saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until very soft, about 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook another minute. Add the rest of the ingredients and bring the mix ture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 30 to 35 min utes. The sauce will remain thin. (The sauce can be made several days in advance, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat it before serving.)

Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Remove the pork from the refrigerator and let it sit covered at room temperature for about 20 minutes.

Grill the pork uncovered over medium heat for 20 to 25 minutes, turning at least three times while cooking. Turn the steaks more frequently if juice begins to form on the surface. If grilling covered, cook for 17 to 20 minutes, turning once midway. The steaks are done when barely white at the center with clear juices. (Don't confuse the colors of the dry rub and the juices.)

Serve the steaks hot, drizzled with sauce, along with Buttermilk Potato Casserole or mashed sweet potatoes. Leftover sauce will keep for weeks and isn't likely to go wasting.

 

TECHNIQUE TIP: In most recipes that call for ketchup we state a preference for the homemade Quintessential Ketchup in the chapter "An American Grill Pantry." Mrs. Dull's sauce is a case where we actually prefer the sweeter, less complex taste of store-bought brands. The blander base of the commercial product keeps it in the background while still providing enough strength to balance the vinegar's assertiveness.