The quintessential "Cosmo Girl" and author of the blockbuster Sex and The Single Girl, Helen Gurley Brown told aspiring women (i.e., "girls") how to win their man in The Single Girl's Cookbook. The unsinkable Mrs. Brown said to forget about Jell-O molded in his initials and pimiento happy faces on food. The ticket to marital bliss, she suggested, was the Cornish game hen, as simple as chicken but much more impressive. She would approve of this come-hither version, scented coquettishly with herbs.
SERVES 4
PERFUMED PASTE
| ½ | cup chopped onion |
| 6 | tablespoons chopped summer savory (see Technique Tip) |
| 2 | tablespoons minced fresh thyme |
| 2 | tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, preferably Italian flat-leaf |
| 1½ | teaspoons kosher salt or other coarse salt |
| Zest and juice of 1 lemon | |
| 2 | tablespoons olive oil |
| 4 | Cornish game hens, or poussins (young chickens), about 1 to 1¼ pounds each, halved |
| Summer savory or thyme sprigs, for garnish |
At least 3 hours and up to the night before you plan to grill the game hens, prepare the paste, puréeing the ingredients in a food processor or blender. Coat the hens thoroughly with the paste, rubbing them both over and under the skin, working the paste as far as possible under the skin without tearing the skin. Place the hens in a plastic bag and refrigerate.
Remove the hens from the refrigerator and let them sit covered at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).
Transfer the hens to the grill skin-side down. Grill the hens uncoveredover medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes, turning them four times. Watch for flare-ups, shifting the hens away from the flame if necessary. If grilling covered, cook for 24 to 28 minutes, turning twice. End either type of grilling with the hens skin-side down for a final crisping. The hens are done when opaque down to the bone but still juicy.
Arrange the hens on a platter, garnish with herbs, and serve immediately. We like to accompany them with kasha or couscous and Citrus-Onion Slaw.
TECHNIQUE TIP: Found in both summer and winter varieties, savory tastes a bit like a cross between thyme and mint. Even the milder summer form used here is slightly assertive, though tamed somewhat in the paste mixture. Rather than substitute dried savory or thyme in this recipe, go for other fresh herbs, such as marjoram or oregano in place of the savory and perhaps rosemary or additional parsley for the thyme. The freshness of the flavor is more important to the success of the dish than the specific herbs.