Grilling the tomatoes for this soup concentrates their juices and adds a touch of outdoors, charbroiled flavor. The tortilla strips, cilantro, and cheese contribute a Southwestern tang.
SERVES 4 TO 6
| 3½ | pounds whole small red-ripe tomatoes, preferably Italian plum |
| Vegetable oil | |
| 2 | tablespoons butter |
| 2 | medium celery stalks, chopped |
| ½ | small onion, chopped |
| 1 | teaspoon ground dried red chile or chili powder |
| 3 | cups chicken stock |
| Salt to taste | |
| Juice of 1 lime | |
| 2 to 3 | Corn Tortillas Rojo ([>]) or other corn tortillas, cut into thin strips and baked or grilled |
| Crumbled queso fresco or feta cheese | |
| Minced cilantro |
Fire up the grill, bringing the temperature to medium-high (3 seconds with the hand test).
Cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze out their seeds and liquid. Coat the tomatoes lightly with oil.
Transfer the tomatoes skin-side up to a well-oiled grate. Grill the tomatoes uncovered over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, turning once, until the skins are dark and the tomatoes become firm with most of their juice evaporated. If grilling covered, cook the tomatoes for 9 to 11 minutes, turning once midway. Set the tomatoes aside until cool enough to handle.
In a skillet, warm the butter over medium heat. Sauté the celery and onion with the chile until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and simmer 30 minutes.
Pull the skins off of one-half of the tomatoes and discard them. Transfer all of the tomatoes and stock mixture, in batches, to a blender. Purée the soup and add salt to taste. (The soup can be prepared to this point a day ahead and kept covered and refrigerated.)
Serve the soup hot, garnishing individual bowls with a squeeze of lime, tortilla strips, cheese, and a sprinkling of cilantro. For a hearty meal, simply add a sandwich.
TECHNIQUE TIP: To get the most out of soups made with grilled ingredients, avoid adding too many competing flavors. The edge gained from grilling is distinct but subtle, and can get lost in a complex preparation. Use the grilled ingredients within a day of cooking for the best flavor.