True-Guilt Creamed Spinach

The ideal mate for a steak, this timeless creamed spinach is worth every one of its luscious calories.

 

SERVES 6 TO 8

 

3	pounds fresh spinach
2	cups whipping cream
	cup butter
½	cup minced onion
1	teaspoon salt, or more to taste
¼	teaspoon ground nutmeg
	Fresh-ground black pepper

Wash the spinach leaves thoroughly in a bowl or sinkful of cold water to remove every bit of grit. Repeat the process if necessary to thoroughly clean the leaves. Place the spinach, with the water that clings to it, in a large, heavy pan. Cover the pan and wilt the spinach over medium heat, stirring it around once or twice. Wilting should take about 5 minutes. When the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze out any excess moisture, rinse it in ice water, and drain again. (The spinach can be prepared to this point earlier in the day, wrapped tightly, and refrigerated.)

In a blender, purée half of the spinach with about ½ cup of the cream, adding a little more cream if needed to combine easily. Finely chop the remaining spinach.

In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté several minutes until translucent. Stir in both the puréed and chopped spinach and add the remaining cream while stirring until incorporated and heated through. Add salt, nutmeg, and a good generous grinding of pepper.

Serve hot or, if you wish, cool the spinach and refrigerate it covered. Reheat gently before serving later the same day.