Chapter 6

CROISSANT PASTRIES

Croissant Dough
Morning Rolls
Hazelnut Orange Pinwheels
Macringle
Cinnamon Rolls with Coconut, Raisins & Walnuts

 

 

 

Several years ago I had the pleasure of visiting Clear Flour Bakery in Brook-line, Massachusetts. It was a wonderful experience. Even though the bakery’s shelves were overflowing with tempting, fresh-baked loaves, it was a basket of golden pecan cinnamon rolls that caught my eye. Instead of the usual Danish dough that most cinnamon rolls are made with, these rolls were formed from light, buttery croissant dough. They were outstanding, and also very popular, which I learned the next morning when I returned to buy more for the journey home. Sorry, sold out.

Croissant dough is the most frequently made and well known laminated (layered) dough. It can also be one of the most challenging to prepare. Cold butter, the key ingredient, is enclosed inside a layer of dough and taken through a repetitive process of rolling out and folding. With so much butter in the dough, the biggest obstacle to success is heat. Keeping the ingredients and the room at a cool temperature makes the dough easier to handle. Also, when rolling the dough, try to keep the thickness as even as possible. If your first attempts don’t turn out as well as expected, don’t give up hope. Preparing your own croissant dough requires practice and patience, but the results are definitely worth it.

The croissant dough we make at Macrina (recipe included in this chapter) was the result of much experimentation. Slightly sweet, it’s perfect for forming into creations such as our popular Morning Rolls, filled with vanilla sugar and baked golden brown with a crispy exterior. There is also a recipe for Macringle, where sweet almond cream is encased in yeasty croissant dough, a classic combination. Several of our regular customers have threatened me, saying that this book would not be complete without the recipe for their favorite pastry—Hazelnut Orange Pinwheels—so I’ve included that one as well. These are breakfast pastries at their best!

CROISSANT DOUGH

This recipe was inspired by an article I read in Cuisine magazine back in 1983. In the article, the talented chef Nick Malgieri shared his secrets for making great croissants. My staff and I started experimenting on our own, and after adding a-little-of-this and taking out a-little-of-that, we came up with what I think is a great recipe. At the bakery, we use this dough as the base for a wide range of sweet and savory breakfast pastries. The key to this recipe is keeping the butter and dough cool while you work with them.

Makes approximately 2½ pounds of dough

1½ cups whole milk
1½ tablespoons dried yeast
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
3 cups and 3 tablespoons all-purpose unbleached flour
12 ounces (3 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled

• Pour milk into a saucepan and warm over medium heat. Remove from stove when milk is warm to the touch, taking care not to over-heat. Transfer to a large bowl and sprinkle yeast over the top. Add sugar and vanilla extract and mix with a whisk until dry ingredients are dissolved. Let sit for 5 minutes while yeast blooms.

• In a separate medium bowl, combine salt and 3 cups of the flour and mix with a wooden spoon. Add flour mixture to the bowl of milk and stir until all ingredients are incorporated. It’s important not to over-mix the dough. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight. While in the refrigerator, the dough will almost double in size.

• The next day, remove bowl of dough from the refrigerator and set on a counter.

• Cut cold butter into 12 equal pieces. Place butter and remaining 3 tablespoons flour in the bowl of a standing mixer. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed for about 2 minutes, until butter is completely smooth.

• Using a plastic scraper, scoop the butter mixture onto a floured work surface and pat into a 6-inch square. (At the bakery we refer to this as a butter-block.) Lightly flour the top and bottom of the butter-block to make it easier to handle, then lift it onto a piece of plastic wrap and set aside.

• Note: Before going on to the next step, it’s important to make sure that the butter-block and the bowl of dough are the same cool temperature. If the butter gets too warm and soft, place it in the refrigerator until it is thoroughly chilled. If necessary, do the same with the dough.

• The next step is incorporating the butter into the dough. Remove the plastic wrap from the bowl of dough and lightly sprinkle flour over the top. The spongy dough will be sticking to the bowl, so coat your fingers with a little flour and gently release the dough from the sides (photo 1). Pull dough onto a lightly floured work surface and gently pat into a square (photo 2). Stretch each of the corners outwards about 4 inches, creating an x shape and leaving a 7-inch square of dough in the center (photo 3). Place the cold butter-block in the center of the dough (photo 4) and fold the stretched corners on top, overlapping them slightly. Pinch all the seams of dough together, completely sealing the butter in dough (photo 5). Sprinkle a little more flour on your work surface and moving quickly to keep butter from softening, gently roll dough into a 12 x 20-inch rectangle, about ½ inch thick (photo 6). If the dough cracks open and butter starts to peek through, pinch the dough to re-seal it.

• Once the dough has been rolled out, it’s time to start the book-folds. This process distributes the butter and dough into alternating layers, resulting in the wonderful flaky dough we all love. Note: If the butter gets too soft it will start to seep through the dough. If this happens, place dough on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper, wrap well with plastic, and place in the refrigerator to chill for 30 minutes. Position the rectangle so that a long side is facing you and fold the left and right sides on top, meeting in the center. Crease the seam gently with your fingers to make the next fold easier. Next, fold the dough in half, bringing the left side over the right so that it resembles a book (photos 7 & 8). Lift the folded dough onto a lined, rimmed baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Chill dough in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• After 30 minutes, remove dough from the refrigerator and let sit for 15 minutes. Remove plastic wrap and lift dough onto a floured surface, positioning dough so that the open side of the fold is in front of you. Roll dough, from left to right, into another 12 x 20-inch rectangle (photo 9). Moving quickly, follow the above book-fold instructions a second time. Lift folded dough back onto the lined, rimmed baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator for another 30 minutes.

• The dough still needs one more fold. Remove dough from the refrigerator, let sit for 15 minutes, then follow the above book-fold instructions a third time. Cover the folded dough and let chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• Unlike pie dough, Croissant Dough really doesn’t keep well. I recommend forming the dough into pastries right away. Once the pastries have been formed, they should be baked within 24 hours, or wrapped with plastic wrap and frozen.

MORNING ROLLS

We offer dozens of different breakfast pastries at the bakery, but Morning Rolls are hands-down the most popular item we make. A few customers are so attached to them that they have a standing daily order. I recommend forming these pastries the night before you want to serve them.

Makes 12 rolls

1 recipe Croissant Dough (page 69)
1½ cups granulated sugar
1½ tablespoons pure vanilla extract
Spray bottle of water

• Complete the Croissant Dough recipe as instructed and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• In a medium bowl, combine sugar and vanilla extract and mix with a spoon until all sugar is coated. Set aside.

• Take Croissant Dough from refrigerator and remove plastic. Cut dough in half and place 1 piece on a lightly floured work surface. (Cover remaining dough with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator.) Roll dough into a rectangle, approximately 12 x 20-inches. Gently brush top of dough to remove any extra flour, then mist with spray bottle of water. This will help the sugar mixture stick to the dough. Spread half of the sugar mixture over the entire surface. Starting with one of the long sides, roll dough away from you into a log. The finished log should be about 2½ to 3 inches in diameter. Repeat process with second piece of dough.

• Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut each log into 6 equal rolls. Tuck the loose end of each roll underneath (see photos below). Place the rolls, tuck-sides-down, into oiled muffin tins and cover with plastic wrap. Let proof in a warm room, about 70°F, for 1 hour.

Rolls will rise slightly. Transfer to refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight. The dough will continue to ferment while it’s in the refrigerator, developing a slightly sour flavor that contrasts perfectly with the sweetness of the vanilla sugar.

• The next morning, remove rolls from refrigerator and let sit, still covered, at room temperature for 1 hour.

• Preheat oven to 385°F.

• Remove plastic wrap and bake rolls on center rack of oven for 40 to 45 minutes. Finished rolls will be deep golden brown. Let cool for about 5 minutes, then turn pans over and gently remove the rolls with your fingers. Don’t let the rolls cool for too long in the pans or the sugar will harden and the rolls will stick.

HAZELNUT ORANGE PIN WHEELS

A very talented pastry chef of ours, Katie Fuller, created this recipe after a vacation in Italy. She returned with lots of ideas, and this was one of our favorites. I recommend forming these pastries the night before you want to serve them. Enjoy them with a cup of hot, strong coffee.

Makes 12 pinwheels

1 recipe Croissant Dough (page 69)
1 cup hazelnuts
½ cup granulated sugar
1 cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest
4 teaspoons fresh orange juice
Spray bottle of water

• Complete the Croissant Dough recipe as instructed and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• Preheat oven to 350°F.

• Place hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool, then remove as much of the loose skins as possible by rubbing the hazelnuts between the palms of your hands. Chop nuts medium-fine and set aside.

• Place hazelnuts and granulated sugar in the bowl of a food processor and blend for about 30 seconds, until mixture is finely chopped. Set aside.

• Take Croissant Dough from refrigerator and remove plastic. Cut dough in half and place one piece on a lightly floured work surface. (Cover remaining dough with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator.) Roll dough into a rectangle, approximately 12 x 20-inches. Gently brush top of dough to remove any extra flour, then mist with spray bottle of water. Spread half of the hazelnut mixture over the surface of the dough. Starting with one of the 12-inch sides, roll dough away from you into a log. The finished log should be about 4 inches in diameter. Repeat process with second piece of dough.

• Using a sharp chef ’s knife, divide each log into 6 equal pinwheels. Place the pinwheels on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and cover with plastic wrap. Let proof in a warm room, about 70°F, for 1 hour. Pinwheels will rise slightly. Transfer to refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight. The dough will continue to ferment while it’s in the refrigerator, developing a slightly sour flavor that contrasts perfectly with the sweetness of the filling.

• The next morning, remove pinwheels from refrigerator and let sit, still covered, at room temperature for 1½ hours.

• Preheat oven to 375°F.

• In a medium bowl, combine powdered sugar, orange zest, and orange juice. Mix with a wooden spoon until sugar is dissolved and glaze is smooth. Set aside.

• Remove plastic from pinwheels and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool on baking sheet for 10 minutes, then drizzle a small amount of glaze over each pinwheel.

MACRINGLE

This is Macrina’s version of Kringle, the traditional Scandinavian breakfast pastry. The classic version is made with Danish dough and filled with almond paste, but I like to use our flaky Croissant Dough and a light almond cream. It makes a beautiful presentation for brunch or a holiday table.

Serves 10-12

1 recipe Croissant Dough (page 69)
1 cup whole almonds
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup granulated sugar
1 egg
3 tablespoons pure vanilla extract
1½ tablespoons all-purpose unbleached flour
Egg wash made with 1 egg and 1 teaspoon water
Coarse raw sugar
Powdered sugar

• Complete the Croissant Dough recipe as instructed and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• Preheat oven to 350°F. Place almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool.

• Place cooled almonds in the bowl of a food processor and blend until medium fine. Add butter, granulated sugar, egg, vanilla extract, and flour and blend for about 3 minutes, or until smooth. Scrape almond cream into a small bowl and set aside.

• Take Croissant Dough from refrigerator and remove plastic. Cut dough in half and place 1 piece on a lightly floured work surface. Set second piece aside. Gently roll dough into a 12 x 20-inch rectangle, taking care not to tear the dough. If the dough resists being rolled, let it sit for a few minutes to relax, then try again. Lift rolled dough onto a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Repeat process with second piece of dough.

• Scoop half of the almond cream onto the center of each rectangle and spread it out to approximately 4 x 16 inches. Fold the long sides of each rectangle on top of the almond cream, leaving a 1-inch opening down the center. Fold 1 inch of dough underneath each of the ends and pinch to seal. This creates a double-thick crust that will keep the almond cream from oozing out during baking. Brush the top of the dough with egg wash and sprinkle with coarse raw sugar. (Avoid brushing the almond cream with egg wash.)

• Note: At this point, the pastries can be baked or wrapped well with plastic wrap and frozen for up to 2 weeks. Make sure that the frozen pastries are completely defrosted before baking.

• Preheat oven to 385°F.

• Let the pastries sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Dough will rise slightly and become soft to the touch. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until a deep golden brown on top and bottom. Let cool on baking sheet for about 10 minutes, then cut into slices. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.

CINNAMON ROLLS WITH COCONUT, RAISINS & WALNUTS

My Grandmother Bakke made the most incredible cinnamon rolls I’ve ever tasted. One day, always open to improving on a good thing, she decided to add two of her favorite ingredients—coconut and walnuts. The results were spectacular. I recommend forming these pastries the night before you want to serve them.

Makes 12 cinnamon rolls

1 recipe Croissant Dough (page 69)
½ cup seedless raisins
1 cup walnut halves
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cinnamon
½ cup shredded, unsweetened coconut
Spray bottle of water

• Complete the Croissant Dough recipe as instructed and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• Place raisins in a small bowl and cover with hot tap water. Let soak for 10 minutes, then drain and squeeze with your hands to remove excess liquid. Set aside.

• Preheat oven to 350°F. Place walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool 10 minutes. Chop coarsely and set aside.

• In a medium bowl, combine sugars, vanilla extract, and cinnamon. Mix well with a wooden spoon and set aside.

• Take Croissant Dough from refrigerator and remove plastic. Cut dough in half and place 1 piece on a lightly floured work surface. (Cover remaining dough with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator.) Roll dough into a 12 x 20-inch rectangle and lightly mist dough with a spray bottle of water. Spread half of the cinnamon-sugar mixture over the entire surface. Sprinkle half of the raisins, half of the walnuts, and half of the shredded coconut on top. Starting with one of the long sides, roll dough away from you into a log. The finished log should be about 3 inches in diameter. Repeat process with second piece of dough.

• Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut each log into 6 equal rolls. Tuck the loose end of each roll underneath (see photos, page 72). Place the rolls, tuck sides down, into oiled muffin tins and cover with plastic wrap. Let proof in a warm room, about 70°F, for 1½ hours. Rolls will rise slightly. Transfer to refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight. The dough will continue to ferment while it’s in the refrigerator, developing a slightly sour flavor that contrasts perfectly with the sweetness of the filling.

• The next morning, remove the cinnamon rolls from the refrigerator and let sit, still covered, at room temperature for 1 hour.

• Preheat oven to 385°F.

• Remove plastic and bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Finished rolls will be a deep, golden brown. Let cool for about 5 minutes, then turn pan over and gently remove the rolls. Don’t let them cool for too long in the pan or the sugars will harden and the rolls will stick.