Chapter 13
LUNCH
Macrina’s Organic Greens Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette
French Lentil Soup with Roasted Tomatoes & Peppers
Corn Chowder with Pink Potatoes & Cream
Tuscan Tomato & Fennel Soup with White Beans
Butternut Squash & Apple Galette
Roasted Tomato & Olive Galette with Fontina
Salmon Paillard on Mixed Greens with Mustard Vinaigrette
Roasted Goat Cheese Salad with Vintner’s Vinaigrette
Orecchiette Salad with Roasted Beets, Fennel & Toasted Almonds
Orzo Salad with Cucumber, Bell Peppers, Basil & Feta
Chicken Tagine with Lemon & Olives
Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Sage Cream & Romano Cheese
Egg Salad Sandwich on Greek Olive Bread with
Roasted Tomatoes & Anchovies
Every morning Macrina opens its doors to a flood of people anticipating their morning coffee, fresh pastries, and fruit salads. It’s a busy, casual scene. But by eleven o’clock the room is transformed. The tables are set with linen napkins and freshly printed copies of our daily menu. Dessert specials are described on the chalkboard, loaves of fresh bread are chosen for service, and waiters ask our chef about the daily specials. The “please wait to be seated” sign goes up, and it’s time for lunch.
The format of our lunch menu never changes, but the daily selection is rarely duplicated. Offerings depend on what’s fresh and available from our suppliers, changing dramatically with each season. For example, some days we rearrange the entire menu because our friend Merv Dykstra has dropped off cases of fresh produce from farms in eastern Washington. A simple salad or dessert can be suddenly transformed by the arrival of Merv’s nectarines. Lunch fare at Macrina isn’t fancy, but I like to think it’s soul satisfying. We make use of simple preparations, accentuating the natural flavors of each ingredient. This chapter includes a wide range of recipes from our café, from hearty soups and simple salads to comfort food and picnic favorites. There’s a dish for every season. Enjoy!
MACRINA’S ORGANIC GREENS SALAD WITH BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Filled with a variety of flavors, this simple salad of local organic greens accompanies every entrée served at our café.
Serves 4
1 medium red onion
¼ cup olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
½ cup whole almonds
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
10 ounces organic salad greens, washed and dried
½ cup Balsamic Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
12 olives (your favorite assortment)
• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Peel onion and cut lengthwise into 8 wedges. Place wedges on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the wedges, and season with a little salt and pepper. Roast on center rack of oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until edges are golden brown. Remove from oven and spoon balsamic vinegar over hot onions. Set aside to cool. Leave oven on.
• Spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for about 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool for 20 minutes. Place toasted almonds in a small bowl with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and lemon zest. Toss ingredients together to coat almonds, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
• Combine salad greens and Balsamic Vinaigrette in a large bowl and toss until greens are coated. Divide greens among 4 salad plates and garnish each salad with a wedge of roasted onion, toasted almonds, and olives.
BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
We’ve been using this vinaigrette recipe since tossing the first salad at our café.
Makes approximately 1¼ cups
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1½ teaspoons chopped garlic
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
½ cup canola oil
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
• Combine parsley, mustard, garlic, vinegar, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Mix with a whisk to combine. Add canola oil in a slow stream, whisking as you pour in the oil. Add olive oil in the same manner. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
FRENCH LENTIL SOUP WITH ROASTED TOMATOES & PEPPERS
This soup recipe is one of many brought to Macrina by the talented Chef Kim Abrams-Marshall. Enjoyed in our cozy café, it’s a perfect comfort food on a drizzly Seattle day. We like to serve the soup with a few slices of crostini topped with goat cheese and a drizzle of good olive oil. If you can’t find French green lentils at your supermarket you can substitute regular lentils.
Serves 4 to 6
4 Roma tomatoes
¾ cup olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
10 garlic cloves, peeled
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 red bell peppers, diced
1 celery rib, diced
1½ tablespoons ground cumin
1½ tablespoons ground coriander seed
1½ cups French green lentils*
8 to 10 cups vegetable stock
1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley
*1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
*available in specialty shops and some supermarkets
• Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
• Wash and core the tomatoes, then cut them into 12 pieces each. Combine chopped tomatoes and ¼ cup of the olive oil in a bowl and toss together. Pour tomatoes onto the prepared baking sheet and spread into an even layer. Season with salt and pepper and roast on center rack of oven for about 15 minutes. Set aside.
• Place 7 of the garlic cloves and another ¼ cup of the olive oil in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook until cloves are tender, approximately 15 minutes. Swirl the pan occasionally to keep the cloves from sticking to the pan. Transfer cooked garlic cloves to a small bowl and mash into a paste. Set aside.
• Pour the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil into a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot. Add diced onion, bell peppers, and celery. Cover pot and cook for 15 minutes over medium-low heat to sweat the vegetables, stirring occasionally. The onions will become translucent. Finely dice the 3 remaining garlic cloves and add to the soup pot along with the cumin and coriander. Continue cooking over medium-low heat for 1 minute, or until garlic smells sweet but is not brown.
• Add roasted tomatoes, mashed garlic, lentils, and 8 cups of the vegetable stock, and bring to a simmer. Cook soup for 45 to 50 minutes, or until lentils are tender, adding more stock as needed. If foam gathers on the surface of the soup, remove it with a spoon. Before serving, add parsley and thyme and season to taste with salt and pepper.
CORN CHOWDER WITH PINK POTATOES & CREAM
This soup is a perfect way to celebrate the sweetness of ripe corn. It can be made quickly and is light enough to enjoy on a warm summer evening.
Serves 4 to 6
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely diced
8 to 10 cups water
Kosher salt
4 ears fresh corn, shucked and cut in half crosswise
¼ cup heavy cream
4 medium red new potatoes, washed and chopped into ¼-inch pieces
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
• Pour the olive oil into a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot and add onion. Cover pot and cook for 15 minutes over medium-low heat to sweat the onion, stirring occasionally. The onions will become translucent. Add garlic and continue cooking over medium-low heat for 1 minute, or until garlic smells sweet but is not brown.
• Add 8 cups of the water and ½ teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Carefully drop in the ears of corn and cook until kernels are tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove corn and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
• Remove kernels from the cobs with a knife, then place the cobs and half of the kernels back in the soup pot. Cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, then remove the cobs and discard. Add the heavy cream, potatoes, and thyme, and simmer over medium heat until potatoes are tender, adding more water as needed, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the remaining kernels of corn just before serving.
• In a small bowl, combine ½ teaspoon salt, sour cream, and lime juice. Mix well and drizzle over steaming bowls of soup.
TUSCAN TOMATO & FENNEL SOUP WITH WHITE BEANS
This is a frequently requested recipe from the collection of our chef, Kim Abrams-Marshall. She likes to pair the rich tomato soup with a gooey grilled cheese sandwich made with smoky bacon and roasted tomatoes.
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup dried white beans
2 bay leaves
¼ cup olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 medium fennel bulbs, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely diced
1 tablespoon ground fennel seed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
10 Roma tomatoes
6 to 8 cups vegetable stock
½ cup chopped fennel fronds
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup Aioli (recipe follows)
• Soak beans in water overnight.
• Drain beans and place in a medium saucepan. Cover with water and add bay leaves. Simmer over medium heat for about 20 minutes, or until beans are slightly tender. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid, drain beans, and set aside.
• Combine olive oil, onion, and fennel in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot. Cover pot and cook for 15 minutes over medium-low heat to sweat the vegetables, stirring occasionally. The onions will become translucent. Add garlic, fennel seed, and thyme. Cover pot and continue cooking over medium-low heat for 1 minute, or until garlic smells sweet but is not brown.
• Wash and core the tomatoes, then cut them into 12 pieces each and add them to the soup. Increase heat to medium and cook for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tomatoes are fully cooked and falling apart. Add 6 cups of the vegetable stock and the reserved bean-cooking liquid. Bring to a boil, then simmer over medium heat, uncovered, for 20 minutes to concentrate the flavors. Add more stock as needed.
• Add the cooked white beans and chopped fennel fronds, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with a little Aioli.
AIOLI
Makes approximately 1 cup
2 garlic cloves, diced
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup canola oil
Kosher salt
Cayenne pepper
• In a medium bowl, combine garlic, egg yolks, mustard, and lemon juice. Mix well with a whisk. Add canola oil in a slow stream, whisking as you pour in the oil. Continue whisking until the sauce has emulsified and thickened slightly. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. Store in airtight container for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH & APPLE GALETTE
During the bakery’s first months of operation I had the pleasure of meeting dozens of wonderful customers. One woman, visiting from New York, came twice a day for what she called her “necessities.” We became friends, and a few months later she mailed me an article showcasing savory galettes, or free-form folded tarts. “These would be perfect in your café,” she wrote across the bottom. We started experimenting with the recipes—and have been serving our versions ever since. At Macrina, our galettes have a crust of Flaky Pie Dough, encasing a sweet or savory filling. Try a small slice as part of an appetizer plate or enjoy a large piece with a dinner salad.
Serves 8 to 10
2 Granny Smith apples
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cups Roasted Butternut Squash (page 85) or canned pumpkin
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
3 eggs
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
½ recipe Flaky Pie Dough (page 127), chilled
Egg wash made with 1 egg and 1 teaspoon water
2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley
• Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
• Core and peel the apples and cut into ½-inch wedges. Place wedges in a medium bowl and toss with half of the allspice, half of the cinnamon, and half of the ground cloves.
• Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, then add the spiced apples and continue cooking for another 5 minutes, or until apples are tender. Set aside to cool.
• Combine butternut squash purée with the remaining allspice, cinnamon, and cloves in a large bowl. Add brown sugar, eggs, salt, and sage, and mix with a whisk to fully blend the ingredients.
• Form chilled pie dough into a ball and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten ball slightly, then roll it into a 14-inch circle, about ⅛ inch thick. Carefully lift it onto the prepared baking sheet. Spoon squash mixture onto center of circle and spread to cover about 8 inches, leaving a 3-inch border. Place a single layer of apples in concentric circles on top of the squash filling. Lift border over top of the filling, tucking and folding the dough to create a gathered, or pleated, finish (see photos, below). Lift each of the folds up and brush underneath with egg wash to seal the crust. Brush all exposed dough with egg wash, then sprinkle Gorgonzola cheese and parsley on top. Place the baking sheet in the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes.
• Preheat oven to 375°F.
• Remove tart from refrigerator and bake on center rack of oven for 55 to 60 minutes, or until crust is golden brown. Let cool on baking sheet for 20 minutes.
ROASTED TOMATO & OLIVE GALETTE WITH FONTINA
The filling in this galette recipe is a perfect showcase for all kinds of summer vegetables. Sweet, ripe tomatoes are roasted separately and added to the top of the tart just before serving. Roasting the tomatoes intensifies their flavor and keeps the filling from getting too wet.
Serves 8 to 10
2 cups grated fontina cheese
2 cups ricotta cheese
3 eggs
Kosher salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Freshly ground black pepper
½ recipe Flaky Pie Dough (page 127), chilled
Egg wash made with 1 egg and 1 teaspoon water
5 Roma tomatoes
⅓ cup extra virgin olive oil
8 leaves fresh arugula
1 cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
• Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
• Combine fontina cheese, ricotta, eggs, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, oregano, thyme, and a little freshly ground black pepper in a large bowl. Mix with a whisk to fully blend ingredients. Set aside.
• Form chilled pie dough into a ball and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten ball slightly, then roll it into a 14-inch circle, about ⅛ inch thick. Carefully lift it onto a prepared baking sheet. Spoon ricotta mixture onto center of circle and flatten to cover 10 inches, leaving a 2-inch border. Lift border over top of the filling, tucking and folding the dough to create a gathered, or pleated, finish (see photos, left). Lift each of the folds up and brush underneath with egg wash to seal the crust. Brush all exposed dough with egg wash, then place the galette in the refrigerator and chill for at least 30 minutes.
• Preheat oven to 375°F.
• Wash and core the tomatoes, then cut them into 12 pieces each. Combine chopped tomatoes and ¼ cup of the olive oil in a bowl and toss together. Pour tomatoes onto a prepared baking sheet and spread into a single layer. Season with salt and pepper. Roast on center rack of oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until edges are deep brown. Set aside to cool. Leave oven on.
• Remove tart from refrigerator and bake on center rack of oven for 55 to 60 minutes, or until crust is golden brown. Let cool on the baking sheet for 20 minutes.
• Cut or tear arugula leaves into 1-inch pieces and place in a bowl with olives, fresh lemon zest, and the remaining olive oil. Add a little salt and pepper, and toss together. Arrange arugula mixture on center of galette and scatter roasted tomatoes over the top. Serve at room temperature.
SALMON PAILLARD ON MIXED GREENS WITH MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
Macrina’s first café chef, Ed Sata, understood the essence of what we were striving for, and his dishes defined our style. This recipe was one of his most popular and showcases some of the Northwest’s local products. The roasted red peppers are readily available in cans and jars and in the deli section of many supermarkets.
Serves 4
8 ounces organic salad greens, washed and dried
12 leaves fresh basil, torn into small pieces
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
4 (4-ounce) salmon fillets, with skin and bones removed
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
About 3 tablespoons Mustard Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
2 roasted red bell peppers, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch-wide strips
¼ cup pine nuts, toasted
12 olives (your favorite assortment)
• Combine salad greens, half of the basil, and half of the cilantro in a large bowl. Toss together and set aside. Combine the remaining basil and cilantro in a small bowl.
• Place one of the salmon fillets in the center of a 10 x 10-inch piece of plastic wrap and fold one side of the plastic wrap over the salmon to cover it. Tap the salmon with a mallet or heavy frying pan to flatten it until it is ¼ to ½ inch thick. Flatten the remaining pieces.
• Pour flour into a pie pan. Carefully unwrap each piece of salmon and season 1 side of each fillet with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Gently press one quarter of the basil-cilantro mixture onto the seasoned side of each fillet. Dredge both sides of the fillets in flour and brush off any excess with your fingers. Set aside.
• Heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add 2 pieces of salmon and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes, then gently turn them and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Set cooked salmon aside. Add the remaining canola oil and butter to the pan and cook the remaining 2 pieces of salmon.
• Toss the bowl of salad greens with just enough Mustard Vinaigrette to coat all of the leaves. Divide the salad among 4 plates and set the salmon fillets off-center on the greens. Garnish each plate with roasted red peppers, pine nuts, and olives. Drizzle a little more vinaigrette over the salmon and serve.
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
Makes 1 cup
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
• In a medium bowl, combine mustard, vinegar, shallots, honey, and thyme, and mix well with a whisk. Continue whisking and add the olive oil in a slow stream. Whisk until the dressing has emulsified, then season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.
ROASTED GOAT CHEESE SALAD WITH VINTNER’S VINAIGRETTE
One summer, while working at a restaurant on Nantucket Island, I read every James Beard book that I could get hold of. The Vintner’s Vinaigrette for this salad was inspired by a recipe in Beard’s Delights & Prejudices, written in the 1960s.
Serves 4
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
8 ounces goat cheese, chilled
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 egg
½ cup bread crumbs
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces organic salad greens, washed and dried
About 4 to 5 tablespoons Vintner’s Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
20 slices crostini (page 26)
• Combine oregano, parsley, and rosemary in a small bowl. Cut goat cheese into 4 equal pieces, then coat each piece with the mixed herbs. Pour flour into a small bowl. Dredge the pieces of herb-coated cheese in flour and brush off any excess with your fingers.
• Crack egg into a small bowl and beat with a fork. Pour bread crumbs into a small bowl. Using a pastry brush, gently coat each piece of cheese with egg, then cover with bread crumbs, making sure each piece is completely coated with crumbs. Place coated pieces of cheese on a plate and chill in the refrigerator until you are ready to assemble the salad.
• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. (Make sure you are using a saucepan with an oven-safe handle.) Remove cheese from the refrigerator and place all 4 pieces in the bubbling butter. Cook until lightly brown on both sides, then place the pan in the oven and cook for 3 to 5 minutes more.
• While the cheese is in the oven, place salad greens in a large bowl and toss with Vintner’s Vinaigrette. Divide greens among 4 dinner plates, then place a piece of hot cheese in the center of each plate. Drizzle a little more vinaigrette over the goat cheese and garnish each plate with homemade crostini. Serve while cheese is still warm.
VINTNER’S VINAIGRETTE
Makes approximately 1¼ cups
2 cups red wine
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, peeled
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon chopped garlic
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh lemon zest
¼ cup fresh Italian parsley
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup canola oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
• Combine red wine, bay leaf, and garlic clove in a medium saucepan (make sure that you are not using an aluminum pan). Cook over low heat until the wine has reduced to one fourth of its original volume. Remove bay leaf and garlic, then pour wine reduction into a small bowl and set aside to cool.
• Combine mustard, chopped garlic, vinegar, lemon zest, parsley, and the cooled wine reduction in the bowl of your food processor. Blend for about 2 minutes, making sure that all of the ingredients are finely chopped. With the blades turning, slowly drizzle in olive oil and canola oil. Blend until the dressing is emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.
ORECCHIETTE SALAD WITH ROASTED BEETS, FENNEL & TOASTED ALMONDS
We prepare a wide range of take-out foods at our retail cafés, including sage-roasted chickens, quiche and galettes, green salads, and focaccia. One of my favorites is this Orrechiette Salad from Chef Kim Abrams-Marshall. This particular recipe calls for roasted beets and fennel, but try using your favorite fresh vegetables year round.
Serves 4 to 6
2 medium golden beets, washed
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup whole almonds
2 cups dry orecchiette pasta
1 cup thinly sliced radicchio
½ cup thinly sliced fennel bulb
¼ cup chopped fennel fronds
½ cup diced scallions
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
⅓ cup Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Place washed beets in the center of a large piece of aluminum foil. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with a little salt and pepper. Gather up the edges of the foil and seal the beets inside a pouch. Bake on center rack of oven for about 1 hour, or until beets are tender when poked with a fork. Let cool, then peel the beets and chop to a medium dice. Set aside. Leave oven on.
• Spread almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. (This can be done while the beets are roasting.) Let almonds cool, then coarsely chop and set aside.
• Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full of water. Add a pinch of kosher salt and bring to a boil. Drop in pasta and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, or until tender. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the pasta in a colander, then run cold water over the pasta for a few minutes until cooled. Shake the colander to remove excess water and transfer cooled pasta to a medium bowl. Toss in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil to keep the pasta from sticking together.
• Add the diced beets, toasted almonds, radicchio, fennel bulb and fronds, scallions, and parsley. Drizzle in Lemon Vinaigrette and toss all ingredients together. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
LEMON VINAIGRETTE
Makes approximately 1¼ cups
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
⅓ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
• Combine mustard, vinegar, lemon juice, honey, lemon zest, garlic, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Mix well with a whisk. Add olive oil in a slow stream, whisking as you pour in the oil. Continue whisking until the dressing has emulsified, then cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
ORZO SALAD WITH CUCUMBER, BELL PEPPERS, BASIL & FETA
This is the most popular of all our take-out salads. Pack this up with a loaf of rustic bread and a wedge of your favorite cheese, and you have a perfect picnic.
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup walnut halves
1 cucumber
1 red bell pepper
1 yellow bell pepper
Kosher salt
1½ cups dry orzo pasta
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved
½ cup diced scallions
¼ cup chopped fresh basil
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1¼ cups crumbled feta cheese
⅓ cup Lemon Vinaigrette (page 211)
Freshly ground black pepper
• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Spread walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast on center rack of oven for about 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool, then coarsely chop and set aside.
• Peel and core cucumber and cut it into ½-inch cubes. Core the red and yellow peppers and cut them into ½-inch-square pieces. Set aside.
• Fill a large saucepan two-thirds full of water. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Drop in pasta and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, or until tender. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the pasta in a colander, then cool the pasta by running cold tap water over the colander for a few minutes. Shake the colander to remove excess water and transfer the cooled pasta to a medium bowl. Toss with olive oil to keep the pasta from sticking together.
• Add the toasted walnuts, cucumber, peppers, olives, scallions, basil, parsley, and feta. Drizzle in Lemon Vinaigrette and toss well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
CHICKEN TAGINE WITH LEMON & OLIVES
The word tagine refers to a shallow Moroccan clay cooking pot used for making stews. It’s a wonderful way of cooking if you happen to have one of the pots, but for this recipe I like to use a shallow cast-iron skillet. Slow cooking, as well as a combination of aromatic herbs and spices, makes this recipe irresistible. Serve with extra slices of your favorite bread for catching every last drop. To achieve the most robust flavors possible, be sure to marinate the chicken for two hours before cooking.
Serves 4
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons ground coriander
2 tablespoons ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 (6-ounce) boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch-square pieces
2 medium yellow onions
¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons olive oil
4 garlic cloves, chopped
1 teaspoon peeled and grated ginger
1 cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons freshly grated lemon zest
2 cups chicken stock
4 medium new potatoes, washed and quartered
1 cup kalamata olives, pitted and halved
1 loaf rustic bread
Extra virgin olive oil for brushing bread
¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup chopped scallions
• Combine lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the cumin, 1 tablespoon of the coriander, 1 tablespoon of the turmeric, and ⅛ teaspoon of the cayenne pepper in a medium bowl. Mix with a whisk, then add the chicken and toss well. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and marinate chicken in the refrigerator for about 2 hours.
• Peel onions, cut in half lengthwise, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices. Set aside.
• Place flour in a shallow pan and season with a little salt and pepper. Dredge each of the chicken pieces in flour and brush off any excess with your fingers.
• Pour olive oil into a large cast-iron skillet and place over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, sauté the floured chicken until golden on all sides. Remove chicken and set aside. Reduce heat to medium and add the sliced onions. Cook for 2 to 5 minutes, then add garlic, remaining cumin, coriander, turmeric, and cayenne and all of the ginger. Sauté for another 2 minutes to release all the flavors.
• Add the white wine and deglaze the pan by using a wooden spoon to scrape up any dark or browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Continue simmering until wine has reduced by half its volume. Add lemon zest and chicken stock and simmer for another 20 minutes.
• To the skillet, add the sautéed chicken, potatoes, and olives. Simmer until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
• While the tagine is simmering, cut bread into 1-inch slices and brush each side with a little olive oil. In a separate pan, sauté the slices over medium heat until golden brown on both sides. Place 2 slices of bread in center of each plate.
• Just before serving the tagine, add parsley, cilantro, and scallions and season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon generous servings over the slices of toasted bread.
SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI WITH SAGE CREAM & ROMANO CHEESE
Our first chef, Ed Sata, moved here from sunny Los Angeles during a particularly dreary Seattle winter and was immediately excited by the challenge of creating warm comfort food for our shivering lunch clientele. One of Ed’s first attempts, gnocchi, was such a big hit that it became a weekly special, with customers lining up every Thursday to see what kind he had prepared for them. This recipe was inspired by Ed’s work. Try it as a shared appetizer or add a simple salad for an entrée.
Serves 4
½ cup walnut halves
1½ pounds Red Garnet sweet potatoes, washed
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
2 eggs
1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons finely diced shallots
1 cup dry white wine
18 fresh sage leaves
3 cups heavy cream
1 cup grated Romano cheese
8 Fried Sage Leaves (recipe follows)
• Preheat oven to 350°F.
• Scatter walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast for about 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Let cool, then coarsely chop and set aside for garnish. Increase oven temperature to 375°F.
• Cut sweet potatoes in half lengthwise and place them, cut sides up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for about 1 hour, or until fork tender. Cut potatoes in half again lengthwise and return to oven for another 30 minutes. (They need to be good and dry.) Remove from oven and let cool for about 20 minutes. Peel away the skins and pass the warm flesh through a ricer or food mill into a medium bowl.
• To the bowl of sweet potato add ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and sugar and mix well with a wooden spoon. Make a well in the center of the sweet potatoes and crack eggs into the well. Beat eggs together with a fork, then start folding them into the mixture by pulling small amounts of sweet potatoes into the center. Continue until eggs are fully incorporated into the sweet potatoes.
• Add flour to the bowl and fold together with a fork. Knead slightly with your hands, then pull dough onto a floured work surface and form into a 2-inch-thick log. You may need to add a little flour if dough is extra sticky. Divide the log into 4 equal pieces, then roll each piece into a 1-inch-thick log. Using a sharp knife, cut each log into 1-inch pieces.
• Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Bring a large saucepan of water to a full boil and add a pinch of salt. Drop in one quarter of the pieces and simmer for about 4 minutes, or until the gnocchi float to the surface. Transfer cooked gnocchi to bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process. After gnocchi have cooled, remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and spread them evenly on a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining gnocchi. Set cooled gnocchi aside.
• Place butter in a large saucepan and melt over medium heat. Add shallots and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until translucent. Add white wine and simmer until liquid has reduced to about ¼ cup. Add sage leaves and cream and simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes, or until volume has reduced to approximately 2 cups. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drop in the gnochhi and toss gently. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes over low heat, taking care not to over-cook the gnocchi. Divide among 4 plates and top with toasted walnuts, grated Romano cheese, and Fried Sage Leaves. Serve immediately.
FRIED SAGE LEAVES
Try adding Fried Sage Leaves to a variety of pasta dishes and soups, or just enjoy them as a snack.
Olive oil
Fresh sage leaves, washed and stemmed
Kosher salt
• Fill a small sauté pan with ½ inch of olive oil and heat to medium-high. Gently drop sage leaves into the oil and fry until dark green. The leaves will sizzle but shouldn’t turn brown. Remove fried leaves with a slotted spoon and transfer to paper towels to drain and cool. Sprinkle with a little kosher salt.
EGG SALAD SANDWICH ON GREEK OLIVE BREAD WITH ROASTED TOMATOES & ANCHOVIES
My inspiration for this sandwich came from a visit to Alice Waters’ Café Fanny, located next door to Acme Bread’s retail bakery in Berkeley, California. Café Fanny serves remarkably satisfying, simple dishes, made from the finest local ingredients. The sandwich I had for lunch was made with Acme’s delicious Levain bread, but I think a good rival is our Greek Olive Loaf.
Makes 2 (open-faced) sandwiches
2 Roma tomatoes
Kosher salt
4 eggs
I½ tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons Homemade Mayonnaise (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
4 slices Greek Olive Loaf (page 17)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
8 leaves arugula
4 anchovy fillets, sliced in half lengthwise
4 kalamata olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
• Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
• Quarter tomatoes lengthwise and lay slices on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle a little salt over the tomatoes and bake on center rack of oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until edges are deep brown. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
• Place eggs and a pinch of salt in a medium saucepan and cover with water. Bring water to a boil over medium heat. Once the water has boiled, cover the pan and remove it from the heat. Let pan stand for 11 minutes, then drain eggs and run cold water into the pan until eggs are cooled.
• Chop hard-boiled eggs to a medium dice and place in a medium bowl. Add mustard, mayonnaise, shallots, oregano, and parsley, and mix well. Season to taste with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in the refrigerator to chill.
• Toast or broil 4 large slices of Greek Olive Loaf until light brown, then butter one side of each slice. Arrange 2 leaves of arugula on the buttered side of each piece of toast, then top each slice with one quarter of the egg salad. Garnish each slice with equal portions of roasted tomatoes, anchovies, and olives. Place 2 slices each onto 2 plates.
HOMEMADE MAYONNAISE
A sandwich simply isn’t complete without fresh mayonnaise.
Makes approximately 1 cup
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup canola oil
Kosher salt
White pepper
• Combine egg yolks, mustard, and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Mix well with a whisk. Add canola oil in a slow stream, whisking as you pour in the oil. Continue whisking until the oil is fully incorporated and thickened. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
