Chapter 5

Taking Care of Your Lab

In This Chapter

Naming your dog’s parts

Knowing your Lab’s genetic tendencies

Deciding what to feed your dog (and how much and how often)

Exercising and grooming your Lab

After you bring home your practically perfect pet, you want to keep her healthy. Maintaining a healthy Labrador Retriever is a relatively easy task, especially if you focus on preventive maintenance. Health problems, just like behavior problems, are a lot easier to prevent than to fix!

Labrador Retrievers are a particularly healthy and robust breed with few genetic abnormalities (although genetic problems do occasionally crop up in any breed). They are the prototypical medium-sized dogs and are often the breed used to illustrate a typical dog in all kinds of books, magazines, and other publications. Of course, your Lab is anything but typical — she’s special! And you want to know everything about her.

It is important to find a breeder who makes health a breeding priority. How do you know whether a breeder has healthy stock? Get a veterinary reference. If the vet confirms that the breeder tends to have healthy puppies that only need to see the vet for preventive maintenance (such as vaccinations and worming), you’ll feel much better about your puppy’s chances for good health. See Chapter 4 for more on finding a breeder.

Lab at a Glance

When you look at your Lab, what do you see? You see those loving eyes and that playful demeanor, but do you know the signs of good health? Are you familiar with basic canine anatomy? And do you know what your dog’s genetic tendencies are in terms of health? You’ll be better able to maintain and preserve your dog’s health if you know what to expect, what looks and feels normal, and what signs to watch for that may indicate a potential problem.

Each day during your dog’s grooming session, move your hands over her coat. Get to know how your Lab feels. If you’re familiar with your Lab’s normal condition, you’ll recognize any changes, such as lumps, bumps, dry skin patches, hair loss, weight loss, weight gain, or sores. The sooner you alert your vet to problems such as these, the better they can be resolved.

Anatomy of a Labrador Retriever

As you get to know your dog, you may wonder what all of her body parts are called. Knowing a little bit about canine anatomy helps you to know your dog better and also to be able to talk to your vet in a more specific and informative way.

Do you know a hock from a stifle? The withers from the croup? Check out Figure 5-1 for a complete rundown of the body parts of your Labrador Retriever:

Figure 5-1: The anatomy of a Lab.

The skull consists of the bone components of the head.

The crest is the upper rear arched portion of the neck, just below the occiput (base of the skull).

The neck is the area between the head and the shoulders.

The withers are the highest points of the shoulder blades.

The back is the long plane between shoulder blades and hips.

The loin is the area between the back and end of the ribcage and the croup or pelvic girdle.

The croup is that portion of the body above the hind legs and extending from the loin to the base of the tail and the buttock area.

The hock joint is the lower joint on the rear leg between the lower thigh and the rear pastern.

The stifle is the knee joint located between the upper and lower thigh.

The elbow is the joint between the upper arm and forearm.

The dewclaw is a vestigial claw on the pastern of the front legs; it’s often removed on puppies.

The pastern is the region between the wrist and forefoot.

The wrist is the joint connecting the forearm and the pastern.

The forearm is the region between the elbow and the wrist.

The shoulder is the shoulder blade or scapula and associated muscles.

The muzzle is the foreface or forward portion of the upper and lower jaw and the nose portion of the head; in other words, the portion of the head in front of the eyes.

The stop is the dividing point between the muzzle and the skull. It marks a change in the profile line between the muzzle and skull.

Size doesn’t matter

Labrador Retrievers come in all sizes, from very small (around 35 pounds) to very large (over 100 pounds). Although the breed standard (the standard used to judge purebred show dogs) calls for a dog between 21 1/2 and 24 1/2 inches and weighing between 55 and 80 pounds, that doesn’t mean your practically perfect Lab will necessarily fall into that standard. Most breeders would agree that form follows function and because Labs do so many diverse jobs, it only makes sense that they come in many different sizes. A friendly, eager, and intelligent character is a more consistent quality of the Labrador Retriever than size.

Labrador Retriever health in brief

Because there are so many Labrador Retrievers, breeders have a large gene pool to draw from. That translates into healthier dogs. Knowledgeable breeders do health checks and everything else they can to avoid genetic disorders. However, because breeding is not only a relatively new science but also an art, it isn’t possible to completely avoid all genetic problems. Science is continually developing better tests to pinpoint genetic diseases, sometimes before the dog shows any symptoms. Yet there still is much work in this area to be done.

While Labs tend to be healthy, some genetic disorders do occasionally occur. These are some of the more common genetic disorders in Labrador Retrievers:

Hip dysplasia: This is the most common orthopedic problem in Labs (and in many larger dogs). Although not congenital (it isn’t present at birth), hip dysplasia is probably due to a combination of genetic and environmental factors. If your dog develops hip dysplasia (the condition can be seen on an x-ray), she may suffer no symptoms at all. Or she may eventually experience severe pain and even lameness. Some Labs require no treatment, but if your Lab develops hip dysplasia and does require treatment, many excellent management strategies, treatments, and surgical options exist.

Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA): This degenerative eye disorder eventually results in your dog becoming blind. A board-certified canine ophthalmologist can examine your dog’s eyes if you suspect she is having any vision problems. PRA is a genetic problem involving a recessive gene. If a puppy receives the gene from both parents, she will develop PRA. If she receives the gene from only one parent, she will be a carrier and should not be bred to another Lab that is also a carrier. The location of the gene that involves PRA has been determined in Labs, and a blood test has been developed to determine whether a Lab is affected, a carrier, or clear. If you buy your Lab from a breeder who is diligent about eye testing, you probably won’t encounter PRA.

Epilepsy: If your Lab has epilepsy, that means she will have seizures. Epilepsy can be due to environmental or genetic factors and will probably show up relatively early if inherited. Seizures can be frightening for your Lab and for you. The most important thing to do for your Lab during a seizure is to keep her from hurting herself. Talk to your vet about the best strategies for managing seizures if your Lab has epilepsy. Depending on the frequency and severity of the seizures, your vet may recommend medication.

For more information on your Lab’s health, see Chapter 6.

It’s a Dog-Eat-Food World

One of the most common questions new dog owners ask veterinarians is, “What should I feed my dog?” Perusing the aisles at your local pet store or grocery store may only confuse you further. The choices are seemingly endless, and the range in price is dramatic. Is a basic, inexpensive food good enough? Are so-called premium foods worth the price? Can’t you just throw your dog a bone?

Pet nutrition is a big industry right now, and it pays to know what’s hype and what’s important information. Although the science is constantly changing and the press releases from the various big-name dog food companies are relentless, in this section, we give you our down-to-earth take on the matter.

Reading labels

The dog food name, company reputation, and the nicely decorated package often influence which brands people tend to buy. Only one thing should influence you, however: the label. No matter the price, no matter how clever or cute the television commercial, and no matter what your friends or neighbors say, the label is the only thing that will tell you how good a dog food is.

What should you look for? First, look for approval by AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. All dog foods must be approved by AAFCO if they advertise as being an acceptable diet. Only supplemental foods such as treats don’t require an AAFCO statement, so most dog foods have it. But if the one you’re looking at doesn’t have it, put it back on the shelf. It isn’t nutritionally adequate.

Homemade dog food?

Should you feed your dog a homemade diet? Homemade diets are particularly good for those few dogs who don’t do well on commercial dog foods, either due to allergies or sensitivity to certain ingredients. However, homemade diets must be scrupulously prepared, and you have to know what you are doing. They take a lot more time to prepare than it takes to scoop out commercial dog food, and a diet lacking in any important vitamins, minerals, or other nutrients can seriously compromise your dog’s health. For example, your dog may become very sick on an all-meat diet. If you like the idea of making your own dog food, read up on the subject, and don’t skimp on ingredients. A few excellent books show you how to prepare a homemade diet that’s nutritionally complete (see the Appendix).

But you don’t want a food that’s merely adequate, do you? You want a food that’s good, a food that will help your dog be as healthy as possible. Many companies also have their own feeding trials so they can best refine their foods to help dogs thrive. Look for evidence of feeding trials on the label.

Take a look at your dog’s teeth. Are they a little different than your own teeth? You bet they are! Dogs are carnivores. Sure, they can eat grains and vegetables (in the wild, they eat whole animals, including the animal’s stomach contents, which often consist of grains and vegetables). But dogs need a higher level of protein than humans. Although grains and vegetables contain protein, it isn’t in a form as digestible as meat. Therefore, we recommend looking for a food that lists at least two sources of meat in the first five ingredients.

Most dog foods list a few grain sources in the first five ingredients as well. That’s fine. Grain is a protein source, too, although a few dogs have allergies to certain grains (try out a lamb and rice or other anti-allergenic dog food if your dog has trouble digesting her food). Just be sure grains aren’t the only protein source. Grains are high in carbohydrates, and dogs don’t digest carbohydrates as well as humans do. Too much of some grains may also hinder the absorption of other important nutrients. For example, iron absorption is hindered by diets high in soy protein.

AAFCO-approved dog foods also contain an array of vitamins and minerals. If the food is approved by AAFCO and especially if it has successfully passed feeding trials, the vitamin/mineral ratios should be adequate.

Look for how the food is preserved. Most foods these days are naturally preserved with vitamin E and sometimes vitamin C. Chemical preservatives such as ethoxyquin (a known carcinogen) can harm your dog’s health and are best avoided.

After you find foods that meet these basic requirements, the rest is up to you. You can find all kinds of fancy foods out there. Some are loaded with delicious-sounding ingredients, lots of natural and organic vegetables, herbs, fancy oils, and high-protein grains. Others are strictly no-frills. As long as the food you choose meets the standards we set out, it should be fine for your dog.

The last, and perhaps most important, consideration: Your dog should think the food you feed her is yummy! If your dog eats the food you’ve chosen eagerly (and most Labs eat just about anything eagerly!), you have your dog food.

If your dog refuses to eat her food, she may be sick, or the food may be spoiled. If it smells of rancid fat, throw it out. Always check the food for expiration dates and bugs, and don’t feed your dog expired or infested food. To avoid spoilage, keep dog food sealed in an airtight container and don’t buy more than a month’s supply at one time.

Although some people advocate giving dogs raw meat bones, we don’t recommend it for Labrador Retrievers. Labs are chewers extraordinaire and even large raw bones can splinter in their powerful jaws. Bone splinters can cause internal injuries, so forego the raw bones for your Lab and stick to sturdy chew toys for chewing.

Feeding a puppy

Puppies eat puppy food, don’t they? You may be surprised to discover that we don’t recommend puppy food for your Labrador Retriever puppy. Al-though great for small dogs, the high protein and fat content of puppy food may encourage your Lab puppy to grow too fast. Several studies in the early 1990s demonstrated that larger breeds, including Labrador Retrievers, that grow too rapidly as puppies are at a higher risk for orthopedic problems, such as hip dysplasia, later in life.

A high-quality adult maintenance diet, however, is perfect for a Labrador Retriever puppy.You can also find puppy foods specifically for larger breeds. Just be sure you feed your Lab enough, but not too much. Your puppy should grow at a steady rate, stay slim and well-muscled, and have plenty of energy (your dog’s condition is a better indicator of how much to feed than are the guidelines on the bag).

How often should you feed your ravenous little puppy? We don’t recommend making food available all day long (called free feeding). Labs love to eat, and even on an adult-maintenance diet, a puppy could become overweight. In-stead, feed your puppy three times per day for the first three or four months. Then, you can usually switch to a twice-a-day diet.

Avoid feeding your Lab, even when she’s an adult, just once per day. Labs love to eat, so let them enjoy it twice each day. Just be sure to adjust portions accordingly so that your Lab doesn’t get too fat! A number of recent studies have suggested that deep-chested dogs such as Labrador Retrievers may be more prone to bloating or stomach torsion, an extremely painful and life-threatening condition, if they’re only fed once per day. Once-a-day feeding encourages faster, more frantic eating, which may contribute to bloating.

How much should your puppy eat? That depends on how active she is, how often she’s outside in cold weather, and how old she is. The portions on the dog food bags may not be right for your dog. For puppies, we recommend starting with 1 cup of dry food three times per day. Take the food away after fifteen minutes. If your puppy doesn’t finish her food, adjust the daily portion down by 1/4 cup or so. If your puppy acts frantically hungry, adjust the daily portion up by 1/4 cup or so.

Take time to experiment. Don’t overfeed your puppy, but don’t starve her, either. In general, if your Lab is energetic, looks healthy, has bright eyes and a shiny coat, and eats with relish but not so desperately that she acts as if she is starving, you have the right portion. Also, do a rib test once every month or so. If you can see your dog’s ribs, she may be too thin. If you can’t feel her ribs when you run your hands gently along your dog’s ribcage, she may be too fat. If you can feel them under a light layer of flesh but they don’t have a pronounced appearance, your dog is probably just right.

When your dog becomes more or less active, when she reaches adult height, or when the weather changes, you may need to adjust the food portion once again. The trick is to stay tuned in to your dog.

Feeding an adult Lab

If you’ve been feeding your puppy a high quality adult-maintenance dog food, you don’t need to switch foods when she reaches adulthood. Labs continue to grow for two years or so, but nothing matches the growth rate of that first year. When your puppy reaches her first birthday, you can probably decrease portions slightly. But again, the best way to know how much to feed your dog is to pay attention to the way she looks and acts and to gauge her individual energy needs. The more energy she uses, the more quality protein and calories she requires.

Feeding an older Lab

Just because your dog is getting older doesn’t mean she’s getting sicker, slower, or any less hungry. The old school of canine nutrition once believed that older dogs (over the age of 8) should automatically be switched to a lower protein diet. Now nutrition scientists are discovering that unless a dog already has a kidney problem (and keep in mind that the kidneys process protein), senior dogs need just as much, if not more, protein than younger adult dogs.

Older dogs tend to lose lean body mass (muscle), so they need plenty of protein to stay strong. Protein doesn’t cause kidney problems (some evidence points to too much phosphorous as the cause), although protein can aggravate an existing kidney problem.

If your older dog has become less active, she may require fewer calories than before. Decreasing portions slightly may be all you need to do. On the other hand, if your dog becomes inactive due to a health problem such as hip dysplasia, you may need to switch to a nutritionally dense food that offers more nutrition in each bite. Older dogs may not be as hungry, either, so nutritionally dense food may become important. If your dog’s appetite changes or you feel she needs a dietary adjustment, see your vet for advice.

On the other hand, if you keep your Lab healthy and active, she may not show a single sign of slowing down even into her second decade of life. If your dog remains active and retains her appetite, there isn’t any reason to change her diet.

Consider adding about 1/4 cup of plain yogurt with active cultures mixed into your dog’s food a few times a week. Yogurt helps to replenish your dog’s intestinal flora and improve her digestion. Just don’t use the sweetened kind. You may not like plain yogurt, but your dog will probably find it an interesting addition to her regular kibble.

Supplementing a Lab’s diet

Should you give your dog vitamin or mineral supplements? Most canine nutritionists say no, as long as you’re feeding your dog a dog food that’s nutritionally complete. Oversupplementation can compromise your dog’s (and especially your puppy’s) health by skewing the balance of nutrients. Unless your vet recommends supplements to address a particular health problem, stick to your regular dog food.

Accommodating an active dog

Some dogs are extra rambunctious. Other dogs are true working dogs, whether avid hunters, trackers, or high-level obedience competitors. These very active dogs need extra protein and calories to give them enough energy and to maintain their muscle mass. If your dog is very active, you can feed her more than you would feed a normally active or sedentary dog.

The food you choose can be a high-protein food, as long as the protein is from a good source (in other words, meat). You may also want to supplement your active dog’s diet with a little extra fat, especially during the winter months if your dog is often outside in very cold temperatures. One tablespoon of canola or safflower oil mixed with your dog’s food and a scrambled or boiled egg once or twice a week will give your active dog a dietary energy boost. Remember to keep monitoring your dog. If she is getting too thin (if you can see her ribs), gradually increase her portions.

Checking whether your dog can pinch an inch

Labs certainly tend to be active, but because they love to eat, they also tend to get overweight. Some Labs prefer a relatively sedentary life which, coupled with the typical Lab appetite, can translate into extra pounds that may eventually compromise your dog’s health. Overweight Labs are more prone to hip dysplasia and other bone and joint problems. They are more likely to suffer from heart disease (just like overweight humans). In addition, many other bodily organs and systems wear down faster in an overweight dog. As we mentioned before, it is particularly dangerous to overfeed a puppy because a too-fast rate of growth can seriously compromise bone and joint strength later in life.

One of the main reasons Labs (and other dogs) get to be overweight is from too many treats and/or table scraps. It’s tempting to give your Lab the rest of that cheeseburger and French fries or the last of the vanilla pudding or meatloaf or lasagna. But after you begin feeding your dog just one bite of your dinner, extra feeding can easily get out of hand. Instead, make it a rule never to feed your dog any of the food the family is having for dinner, especially not right from your plate (it’s unhealthy, and it encourages bad manners!). If you absolutely must feed her some people food, mix a cooked egg or some cooked vegetables into her regular food, in her regular food bowl. Remember, obesity is one of the most common health problems in dogs. Too much extra food, even healthy food, is bound to end up around your dog’s middle.

To keep your dog from becoming overweight from too many training treats, use pieces of regular dog food taken out of your dog’s daily allowance of food for training sessions. Reserve extra dog treats for special occasions.

How can you tell if your dog is too fat? First, look at your dog from above. Her waist should be narrower than her ribcage. If she looks like a barrel, she’s probably overweight. Next, feel your dog’s ribs. If they feel as if they are padded with a mattress (in other words, if you have difficulty finding them), your dog is probably overweight. Check with your vet if you suspect your dog has been packing on the extra pounds, and then work together to manage your dog’s weight problem through a combination of dietary adjustments and exercise.

Helping ailing dogs recover

Certain health problems, such as kidney disease, diabetes, and heart disease, require dietary alterations. Your vet can best advise you on how to change your dog’s diet to best manage a particular disease. If your dog is diagnosed with any disease or condition and your vet doesn’t mention your dog’s diet, be sure to ask if you should be making any changes in your dog’s diet. And be forthcoming. If you’ve been feeding your dog pepperoni pizza four times a week, tell your vet. It may help him or her diagnose a problem.

Don’t share that chocolate bar with your dog! Some dogs are allergic to chocolate and even a little can kill them. Don’t risk trying to find out whether your dog can handle chocolate. Even if your dog isn’t allergic, chocolate has no nutritional value and is bad for your dog’s health.

Labs Are Movers and Shakers

Dogs need exercise, just like humans. Obese dogs need it, slim dogs need it, puppies need it, adult dogs need it and senior dogs need it. Exercise keeps your dog’s muscles strong and her heart fit and provides a release for all that Lab energy! Labs who don’t get enough exercise may wind up engaging in destructive chewing, or they may become jittery, nervous, and/or hyperactive. One or two nice long daily walks, at least twenty to thirty minutes, is all it takes, and you’ll benefit, too! If you have a large fenced yard, don’t think that’s a substitute for a daily walk. Walking your dog is a great way for the two of you to engage in an activity together. This will improve your relationship. Extra time romping in the backyard is great for Labs, too.

Puppies need exercise

Lab puppies can be quite active. They need to have lots of outlets for that energy. If you expect them to lie at your feet all day, you’ll probably end up getting the shoes chewed right off your feet! The fact that excess weight is particularly bad for puppies is another reason to make sure your pup gets lots of exercise.

Couch potato owners have couch potato dogs

If you’re the sedentary type but have your heart set on a Lab, consider an older Lab who doesn’t have the energy level of a puppy. Some older Labs love to sit around all day, although they should have at least one daily walk to keep in shape. If you never get any exercise, however, and can’t even make yourself take that daily walk, either consider getting another type of dog (many small dogs can get enough exercise just running around the house) or hiring someone to walk your Lab for you. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a couch potato dog who may suffer from serious health problems as she ages.

Get your puppy used to walking on a leash right away. Put a collar and leash on your puppy as soon as you bring her home and keep it slack while following the puppy around in a safe area. Then follow the directions in Chapter 11 to teach your puppy to walk on a slack lead. Soon you’ll be walking together like pros and getting the exercise your puppy needs.

Dog daycare afternoon

Do you love dogs, but have to work all day and can’t come home for lunch? Hire a dog walker, pet sitter, or doggy daycare center to fill in when you can’t be there. More and more such services are popping up all over the country as people become increasingly aware of the importance of meeting their pets’ needs. Check your phone book.

Or hire a trusted friend or family member to do the job. Your Lab will welcome the company, and you’ll feel better, too.

Adults and seniors need exercise, too!

When your Lab is no longer a puppy, she may settle down a bit and require less exercise. On the other hand, she may not. Some Labs are highly energetic and enjoy lots of activity all the way through old age. Don’t slack off on the walks just because your dog is no longer a puppy. Keeping your dog fit requires exercise every day, no matter your dog’s age. Many old Labrador Retrievers are still happy to go on long, brisk walks, catch a Frisbee, or retrieve game on an all-day hunting trip.

To keep your Lab in good physical condition, allow him to get at least 30 minutes of exercise every day. To combat boredom (your Lab’s or yours), alternate long walks; romps in the park; field trips to dog-friendly recreational areas, beaches, or hiking trails; and, of course, lots of retrieving activities.

However, if your dog begins to suffer from bone or joint trouble in old age, you may need to slow things down a bit. Swimming is an excellent exercise for dogs who have hip dysplasia and other bone disorders. Take the cue from your dog and be sensitive. Labs love to please, so they may push themselves too hard if they think you really want to run that extra mile. Be in tune to signs your older dog needs to slow down: panting, limping, slowing the pace, or signs of extreme exhaustion after exercise, such as sleeping for an unusually long time. Also, don’t forget to check your dog all over during your daily grooming sessions. If touching certain areas elicits a yelp or a whimper, your dog is probably in pain. See your vet and take it easy on your dog, at least for awhile.

Puppies and older dogs alike can experience joint injuries and foot pad injuries from running on concrete. If possible, allow your dog to walk on grass, dirt, or any surface softer than a hard street or sidewalk. If you must walk your dog on concrete, slow the pace.

Some Beauty Is Skin Deep

The last important aspect of preventive care for your Lab is the daily grooming session. Labs are easy to groom and don’t take much effort; there’s no long coat to untangle or wiry coat to strip, for example. Daily grooming is important nonetheless. It is an important way for you and your Lab to bond, thus improving your relationship. It is also your chance to monitor your dog for any physical or behavioral changes. Consider it a chance to touch base with your best friend. Your dog will come to depend on it, and so will you.

Good grooming involves more than a clean coat. It also involves foot and nail care, eye and ear care, and a health check. A well-groomed dog is clean and beautiful. An ungroomed dog looks (and is) neglected. Keep your dog healthy and looking her best through vigilant grooming.

Saving your Lab’s skin (and coat)

Every day, begin your grooming session by giving your Lab a good going-over with your bare hands. Massage her head, face, neck, back, chest, legs, and tail with your fingers, feeling for any lumps, bumps, dry patches, hair loss, or anything else abnormal. The more you do this, the more you’ll get used to the feel of your Lab and the better you’re able to notice when something changes. Massaging also loosen dead hair and skin so that it can be brushed away. In addition, your Lab will become accustomed to such a once-over and will be much easier for a vet to handle, when necessary.

Brush your Lab with a natural bristle or nylon brush. Although Lab coats don’t require a daily brushing (they can get by with a weekly brushing), daily brushing feels great to your Lab and keeps her coat immaculately clean, free from shed hairs, and shiny. Be sure to also go over her coat with a flea comb, removing any dead fleas and checking for signs of infestation.

Labs don’t need to be bathed frequently, and too-frequent bathing can dry out their skin, stripping it of natural oils. (Thank goodness, because bathing a Lab can be a challenging experience — see Figure 5-2.) Instead, make sure your Lab has plenty of time outdoors each day (outdoor air is good for keeping the skin moist) and stick to a good brushing for cleanliness. Bathe your Lab only when she gets really dirty; sometimes plain water will do the trick.

Figure 5-2: Washing your Lab can also mean a bath for you!

© Nance Photography/AKC Stock Images

The eyes and ears have it

It’s time to play vet. Check your Lab’s eyes and ears so she becomes used to having them looked at. Your vet’s job will be much easier if your Lab is used to this kind of prodding.

When you look at your Lab’s eyes, check for discharge or irritation. If they look like they need it, you can clean gently around your Lab’s eyes with a cotton ball soaked in boiled and cooled saltwater (use about a 1/4 teaspoon of salt per cup of water). If you have a yellow Lab and the area around her eyes becomes stained due to the normal production of the tear ducts, rest assured that this is natural and not really a problem. It doesn’t hurt your dog. If you want to remove the stains, ask your vet to do it or very carefully remove them with a cotton ball soaked in hydrogen peroxide. Always put a drop of mineral oil in each of your Lab’s eyes first, however (see Figure 5-3). If you get hydrogen peroxide in her eyes, it will hurt.

If your dog’s eyes look irritated, she could have a blocked tear duct, an overactive tear duct, conjunctivitis, or something in her eye. Call your vet for advice. If your Lab is showing signs of vision loss or if her eyes look cloudy, she could be developing cataracts. As long as you’ve been taking your dog for annual appointments, your vet can probably catch cataracts early, but don’t hesitate to take your dog to the vet if you suspect that anything is wrong with her eyes.

Figure 5-3: Put a drop of mineral oil in your Lab’s eyes before wiping with peroxide.

Never put your fingers or any other implement into your dog’s eye.

Your Lab’s ears should be clean and free of ticks and fleas (of course). If your Lab’s ears look dirty or waxy, you can clean the outside with a cotton ball or cotton swab. Never put anything into your dog’s ear canal! If your dog is scratching or shaking her ears quite a bit but you don’t see any pests, or if you notice redness or a bad smell, take your dog to the vet. She could have mites, a yeast infection, or a bacterial infection, which your vet will have you treat with an ear cleaner or medication.

Getting off on the right foot

Foot care for Labs is as easy as coat care. Pick up each foot, moving each toe and pressing lightly on each foot pad to accustom your dog to having her feet examined. The most important thing to do in your daily grooming session is to make sure your Lab’s nails aren’t getting too long. Long nails force the footpads apart on hard surfaces, making it difficult for your dog to walk correctly. Bone and joint problems may result if your dog’s nails remain un-trimmed for long periods of time.

To trim your Lab’s nails, use a trimmer made for large dogs, never a human nail trimmer (see Figure 5-4). Trim your Lab’s nails frequently so you never have to trim off too much. This trimming will train the quick, the vein that runs through the nail, to recede. In nails that are never trimmed, the quick extends farther into the nail, and if clipped, they will bleed. (Keep a styptic pencil nearby to stem any bleeding just in case this happens.) You can see the quick in Labs with light-colored nails, but in black and chocolate Labs, you have to guess. Just don’t clip too far up.

Figure 5-4: Use caution when trimming your Lab’s nails.

Clip off the nail tips, just where the underside of the nail starts to curve. Trimming your dog’s nails every three to four weeks should be sufficient to keep them in good condition.

Some Labs develop cysts between their toes. A topical antibiotic ointment may help, or your veterinarian may choose to lance the cysts. Labs prone to cysts tend to develop them periodically, and a cyst takes about a week or a little longer to resolve. If your Lab is prone to cysts, make sure the cysts remain clean and uninfected. See your vet if you think that a cyst between your Lab’s toes has become infected or if you aren’t sure what to do about it.

Those pearly whites

The last important part of your daily grooming session should be a good teeth-brushing. Yes, dogs should have their teeth brushed, too! Dental plaque can get into your dog’s bloodstream and into her heart, causing heart disease and dramatically shortening her life! If your dog has a serious problem with plaque or tartar buildup (that brownish yellow gook that sticks to her teeth), you can pay a vet to remove it. Sometimes this procedure requires an anesthetic. To avoid this problem, begin brushing your puppy’s teeth on the first day you bring her home, and do it at least weekly (or even better, every day) to keep teeth their cleanest. (If you brush every day, shouldn’t your dogs?) To maintain good bite inhibition, get your Lab used to having human hands in her mouth.

At your local pet store you can purchase a special long-handled dog toothbrush and toothpaste made for dogs (never use human toothpaste on dogs). Dog toothpaste tastes yummy to dogs, so at first, just let your dog lick the toothpaste off the brush. After a day or two of this, you can start carefully introducing the brush to her teeth (see Figure 5-5). Don’t expect to be able to do a full, thorough brushing at first. As your dog gets used to the toothbrush, she’ll eventually let you scrub away, revealing those pearly whites in their full glory.

Figure 5-5: Brush your Lab’s teeth daily.

Canned dog food is more likely to cause dental problems than dry dog food. The greater moisture content makes canned dog food stick to your Lab’s teeth. Your dog will love dry dog food if she’s hungry. Dry dog food is not only equally nutritious, but it cleans teeth and is more cost-effective. We suggest avoiding canned dog food.

Is your Lab healthy? A checklist

Just so you don’t forget anything, we’ve provided you with a healthy Lab checklist. You can copy it and post it by your grooming area so you can go through it each day. Whenever you notice anything that may indicate your Lab is less than healthy, call your vet.

Today, my Lab had:

A shiny, clean coat

Smooth skin without dry patches

Clean, bright eyes

Clean, pest-free ears

Short nails

Healthy foot pads with no cracks

Clean, white teeth

No fleas or ticks

A normal energy level

A good appetite