The patterning on this jacket looks complex, but actually it’s just stockinette-stitch stripes with giant cross-stitches embroidered afterward. Knitting in the front bands and collar gives the jacket a neat finish, with the added bonus of avoiding a tiresome sewing job.
ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE
The 1st size jacket took about 8 hours actual knitting time, plus 7 hours for the embroidery: 15 hours total.
ABOUT THIS YARN
Rowan Big Wool is an incredibly thick, soft, 2-ply, lightly twisted 100% merino wool yarn with 87 yds. (80 m) to a 100 g (approx. 3½ oz.) ball.
VSIZES
To fit: bust 32 to 36[38 to 42:44 to 48] in. (81 to 91[97 to 107:112 to 122) cm
Actual measurements: bust 44[48:52½] in. (112[122:133] cm); length 26[26¾:27½] in. (66[68:70] cm); sleeve 16½ in. (42 cm). Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes; where there is only one figure, it refers to all sizes.
YOU WILL NEED
• 4(5:5) x 100g balls (approx. 14[17½:17½] oz.) of Rowan Big Wool in Pip, shade 015 (A)
• 3(4:4) x 100g balls (approx. 10½ [14:14] oz.) same in Wild Berry, shade 025 (B)
• 2(3:3) x 100g balls (approx. 7[10½:10½] oz.) same in Cassis, shade 024 (C)
• pair each of size US 17 (12 mm) and size US 19 (15 mm) knitting needles
• 4 buttons
• 2 x 50g balls (approx. 3½ oz) of Rowan Kid Classic in shade 819 (D) (optional)
• large tapestry needle
GAUGE
7½ sts and 10 rows to 4 in. (10 cm) over st-st on size US 19 (15 mm) needles. Change needle size, if necessary, to obtain this gauge.
ABBREVIATIONS
beg = beginning; cont = continue; dec = decrease; foll = following; inc = increase; k = knit; kfb = k into front and back of st; p = purl; RS = right side; skpo = slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over; st(s) = stitch(es); st-st = stockinette st; tog = together; WS = wrong side; yo = yarn over needle to make a st.
NOTES
• Use a separate ball of B for the front edging and collar, and separate balls of A and B for the pocket patch, twisting yarns when changing colors to link areas.
JACKET
BACK
Using size US 17 (12 mm) needles and B, cast on 44(48:52) sts.
K 4 rows.
Change to size US 19 (15 mm) needles. Beg k row, st-st stripes of 3 rows C, 11 rows A, 4 rows B, 8 rows A, 6 rows C, 4 rows B, 3 rows C, and 3 rows A. Cont in st-st and A.
Shape armholes. Bind off 3(4:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 38(40:42) sts.
Dec row (RS) K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, skpo, k1. 36(38:40) sts.
St-st 3 more rows in A. Cont in st-st stripes of 4 rows B, 3 rows C and 7(9:11) rows A. Cont in st-st and A.
Shape shoulders and back neck. Bind off 3(3:4) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Next row (RS) Bind off 4 sts, k until there are 7(8:8) sts on right needle, turn and complete right shoulder on these sts. Bind off 3 sts at beg of next row. 4(5:5) sts. Bind off. With RS facing, bind off center 8 sts, k to end. 11(12:12) sts. Bind off 4 sts at beg of next row and 3 sts at beg of foll row. 4(5:5) sts. Bind off.
POCKET LININGS
(Make 2) Using US 19 (15mm) needles and C, cast on 10 sts. Beg k row, work 10 rows. Leave sts on a holder.
LEFT FRONT
Using size US 17 (12 mm) needles and B, cast on 24(26:28) sts.
K 4 rows.
Change to size US 19 (15 mm) needles.
Row 1 (RS) K 20(22:24) C, 4B.
Row 2 K4B, p20(22:24) C.
These 2 rows form st-st with k4B at front edge on every row.
Work 1 more row.
Row 4 (WS) K4B, p 5(6:7)A, 10C, 5(6:7)A.
Row 5 K 5(6:7)A, 10C, 5(6:7)A, 4B. Work last 2 rows 4 more times, then work Row 4 again.
Change to B.
Pocket opening row (RS) K5(6:7), slip next 10 sts onto a holder and in their place k 10 sts of pocket lining, k to end.
Work 3 more rows B.
Cont in B for k4 front edging, work 8 rows A, 6 rows C, 4 rows B, 3 rows C, and 1 row A.
Shape collar and armhole.
Row 1 (RS) K19(21:23)A, using B, k3, kfb, k1. 25(27:29) sts.
Row 2 K6B, p19(21:23)A.
Row 3 Using A, bind off 3(4:5) sts, k until there are 16(17:18) sts in A on right needle, k6B. 22(23:24) sts.
Row 4 K6B, p16(17:18)A.
Row 5 Using A, K1, k2tog, k12(13:14), using B, k5, kfb, k1.
Row 6 K8B, p14(15:16)A.
Row 7 K 14(15:16)A, 8B.
Row 8 K8B, p14 (15:16)A. Cont in B.
Row 9 K to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 23(24:25) sts.
Row 10 K10, p to end.
K 1 row.
Row 12 K10, p to end.
Row 13 K12(13:14)C, using B, k9, kfb, k1. 24(25:26) sts.
Row 14 K12B, using C, p to end.
Row 15 K 12(13:14)C, 12B.
Row 16 K12B, using A, p to end.
Row 17 K11(12:13)A, using B, k11, kfb, k1. 25(26:27) sts.
Row 18 K14B, using A, p to end.
Cont in st-st and A with K14 in B for collar on every row, work 4(6:8) more rows.
Shape shoulder. Bind off 3(3:4) sts at beg of next row, 4 sts at beg of foll RS row and 4(5:5) sts at beg of next RS row. 14 sts.
Back collar. Cont in B on 14 sts, k every row until collar reaches center back neck. Bind off.
RIGHT FRONT
Using size US 17 (12 mm) needles and B, cast on 24(26:28) sts. K 4 rows. Change to size US 19 (15 mm) needles.
Row 1 (RS) K4B, 20(22:24)C.
Row 2 P20(22:24)C, k4B.
These 2 rows form st-st with k4B at front edge on every row.
1st buttonhole row (RS) Using B, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, k20(22:24)C.
Row 4 P 5(6:7)A, 10C, 5(6:7)A, k4B.
Row 5 K4B, 5(6:7)A, 10C, 5(6:7)A.
Work last 2 rows 4 more times, then work Row 4 again. Change to B.
Pocket opening and 2nd buttonhole row (RS) K1, k2tog, yo, k6(7:8), slip next 10 sts onto a holder and in their place k 10 sts of pocket lining, k to end.
Work 3 more rows B.
Cont in B for k4 front edging, work 8 rows A.
3rd buttonhole row (RS) Using B, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, using C, k to end. Cont in B for k4 front edging work 5 more rows C, 4 rows B, and 2 rows C.
4th buttonhole row (RS) As 3rd buttonhole row.
Next row K4B, using A, p to end. Shape collar and armhole.
Row 1 (RS) Using B, kfb, k4, k19(21:23)A. 25(27:29) sts.
Row 2 P19(21:23)A, k6B.
Row 3 K 6B, 19(21:23)A.
Row 4 Using A, bind off 3(4:5) sts, p to last 6 sts, k6B. 22(23:24) sts.
Row 5 Using B, kfb, k6, using A, k to last 3 sts, skpo, k1.
Row 6 P14(15:16)A, k8B.
Row 7 K 8B, 14(15:16)A.
Row 8 P14(15:16)A, k8B.
Cont in B.
Row 9 Kfb, k to end. 23(24:25) sts.
Row 10 P13(14:15), k10.
K 1 row.
Row 12 P13(14:15), k10.
Row 13 Using B, kfb, k10, k12(13:14)C. 24(25:26) sts.
Row 14 Using C, p to last 12 sts, k12B.
Row 15 K 12B, 12(13:14)C.
Row 16 Using A, p to last 12 sts, k12B.
Row 17 Using B, kfb, k12, k11(12:13)A. 25(26:27) sts.
Row 18 Using A, p to last 14 sts, k14B.
Cont in st-st and A with k14 in B for collar on every row, work 5(7:9) more rows.
Shape shoulder. Bind off 3(3:4) sts at beg of next row, 4 sts at beg of foll WS row, and 4(5:5) sts at beg of next WS row. 14 sts.
Back collar. Cont in B on 14 sts, k every row until collar reaches center back neck. Bind off.
SLEEVES
Using size US 17 (12 mm) needles and B, cast on 22(24:26) sts. K 4 rows. Change to size US 19 (15 mm) needles.
Beg k row, st-st 10 rows A.
Change to B. St-st 2 rows.
Inc row Kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 24(26:28) sts. P 1 row B.
Change to A. Cont in st-st, inc in same way as before at each end of Row 3 and foll Row 4. P 1 row. 28(30:32) sts.
Change to C. Inc as before at each end of Row 3. St-st 3 rows. 30(32:34) sts.
Change to B. Inc as before at each end of Row 3. 32(34:36) sts.
P 1 row.
Change to C. St-st 3(2:2) rows.
2nd and 3rd sizes only Inc as before at each end of next row.
All sizes Cont in A. St-st 3(3:1) rows.
3rd size only Inc as before at each end of next row. P 1 row.
All sizes 32(36:40) sts.
Shape top. Bind off 3(4:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 26(28:30) sts.
Next row (RS) Slipping first st, bind off 2 sts, k to last 2 sts, skpo.
Next row Slipping first st, bind off 2 sts, p to last 2 sts, p2tog. 20(22:24) sts. Bind off.
POCKET TOPS
Using size US 17 (12 mm) needles and B, k 10 sts from holder. K 4 more rows. Bind off.
TO FINISH
Press according to yarn label. Join shoulders. Join back collar seam, and sew row ends of collar to back neck. Set in sleeves. Join side and sleeve seams. Slip stitch pocket linings in place.Sew down ends of pocket tops. Sew on buttons. Weave in yarn ends Add embroidery. Using 4 strands of D and tapestry needle, work large cross-stitches over the stripes and overcasting stitches at each side of pockets and where A changes to C.
TIPS
• When working with big needles, you can knit faster and take the weight off your wrists by working with the end of the right needle tucked under your arm.
• If you’d like to knit the jacket in just one color, follow the instructions, omitting the color changes. You’ll need approximately 9(10:11) x 100 g balls (approx. 31½[35:38½] oz.) of Big Wool in your chosen color.
• If you don’t want brightly contrasting embroidery, use Big Wool yarn colors leftover from knitting the jacket instead.
• When sewing together a garment with stitches as big as these, it really is important to join the seams with the right side facing, carefully using mattress stitch (see page 154) and taking 1 stitch in from each side.
