The knitting is basically stockinette stitch; the woven effect is produced by picking up stitches and working in little blocks of 5 stitches and 8 rows. Once you’ve got the hang of picking up 1 whole stitch in from the edge, you’ll find this a fascinating way of working. The blocks are tiny, so you can finish one in just a few minutes.
ESTIMATED TIME TO COMPLETE
The bag took 12 hours to make, including making the cord for the handle. Note: Beginners new to the technique may take longer to complete this project.
ABOUT THIS YARN
Noro Kureyon is a multicolored 100% wool single-twisted yarn with a hand-spun feel, with approximately 109 yds. (100 m) to a 50 g (approx. 1¾ oz.) ball.
SIZE
Width: 11¾ in. (30 cm); length: 13¾ in. (35 cm).
YOU WILL NEED
• 4 x 50 g balls (approx. 7 oz.) of Noro Kureyon in shade 40
• pair each of size US 7 (4½ mm) and size US 8 (5 mm) knitting needles
GAUGE
3 blocks measure 4 in. (10 cm) across; 5 lines of blocks measure 3½ in. (9 cm) when pressed, over entrelac patt on size US 8 (5 mm) needles. Change needle size, if necessary, to obtain this gauge.
ABBREVIATIONS
beg = beginning; cont = continue; k = knit; kfb = k into front and back of st; p = purl; patt = pattern; RS = right side; skpo = slip 1, k1, pass slipped st over; st(s) = stitch(es); st-st = stockinette stitch; tog = together; WS = wrong side.
NOTE
• Pick up stitches 1 whole stitch in from edge, spacing them on alternate row ends, so there are no gaps.
FIRST SIDE
Top edge. Using size US 7 (4½ mm) needles, cast on 36 sts. Beg p row st-st 9 rows.
Change to size US 8 (5 mm) needles. Work in entrelacs patt.
Base triangles. Row 1 (RS) K1, turn.
Row 2 P1.
Row 3 K2, turn.
Row 4 P2.
Row 5 K3, turn.
Row 6 P3.
Row 7 K4, turn.
Row 8 P4.
Row 9 K5, turn.
These 9 rows form the first base triangle and 1 st of 2nd base triangle. Work 2nd to 9th rows until 9 base triangles have been completed, ending last triangle k4.
1st line of blocks. The first side triangle is worked using 4 sts of the last base triangle.
1st side triangle. Row 1 (WS) P1, turn.
Row 2 Kfb. 2 sts.
Row 3 P1, p2tog, turn.
Row 4 K1, kfb. 3 sts.
Row 5 P2, p2tog, turn.
Row 6 K2, kfb. 4 sts.
Row 7 P3, p2tog, do not turn.
First side triangle has been completed. Leave these 4 sts on needle.
1st block. Worked into 4 sts of next base triangle.
Purl 4 sts from row ends of previous base triangle, turn.
Row 1 (RS) K4.
Row 2 P3, p2tog, turn.
Work Rows 1 and 2 3 more times, using all sts of base triangle.
Cont in this way, purling sts from row ends and working into next base triangle until 8 blocks have been completed.
2nd side triangle. Pearl 4 sts from row ends of last base triangle.
Row 1 (RS) K4.
Row 3 K3.
Row 4 P1, p2tog. 2 sts.
Row 5 K2.
Row 6 P2tog.
Row 7 K1 and leave this st on needle. 1st line of blocks has been completed.
2nd line of blocks. Worked into 1st line of blocks.
1st block With 1 st on right needle, pick up 3 sts from row ends of 2nd side triangle, turn. 4 sts.
Row 1 (WS) P4.
Row 2 K3, skpo, turn.
Work Rows 1 and 2 3 more times, using all sts of last block of 1st line of blocks.
Cont in this way, picking up 4 sts from row ends and working into next block each time until 9 blocks have been completed. Work next line of blocks as given for 1st line of blocks but using sts of 2nd line of blocks. Cont working lines of blocks into sts of previous line of blocks until 19 lines of blocks have been completed.
Closing triangles. Pick up 3 sts from row ends of last side triangle, turn. 4 sts.
Row 1 (WS) P4.
Row 2 K3, skpo, turn.
Row 3 P2, p2tog.
Row 4 K2, skpo, turn.
Row 5 P1, p2tog.
Row 6 K1, skpo, turn.
Row 7 P2tog.
Row 8 Skpo, do not turn.
With 1 st on right needle, pick up 3 sts from row ends of next block, turn. 4 sts.
Cont in this way working Rows 1 to 8 for each closing triangle.
Ending the last triangle at Row 7, fasten off.
SECOND SIDE
Work as given for first side.
TO FINISH
Join side and lower-edge seams. Using 10 lengths of yarn, each 3¾ yds. (3.5 m) long, make a twisted cord for handle—finished length approx. 40 in. (101.5 cm). Sew the cord to the bag.
Making a twisted cord. Tie the strands together at each end with an overhand knot. Dividing the strands into 2 groups of 5 each, slip one end over a door handle or a firmly fixed hook. Step back until the yarn is slightly stretched. Insert a pencil or small rod into the loop of yarn, and twist until the yarn starts to curl back on itself. With one hand, grasp the yarn at the center (a helper is useful for this) and take the rod end of the yarn to the fixed end. Holding these ends together, let go of the center. The yarn will twist around itself to make a cord. Still holding the ends firmly, smooth out any kinks, then tie an overhand knot to secure the ends; trim them to make a tassel about 3 in. (8 cm) long. Knot and trim the other end of the cord to match. See also page 155 for further instructions with diagrams.
TIPS
• You need to work quite a large sample in entrelac before you can measure it, so you may find it easier to check your stockinette stitch gauge, which should be 18 sts and 24 rows to 4 in. (10cm) on size US 8 (5 mm) needles.
• For a really hard-wearing bag, make a lining. Cut 2 pieces of cotton fabric, each 12½ x 15 in. (32 x 38 cm). Placing right sides together and taking ⅜-in. (1- cm) seam allowances, join both long sides and one short side. Insert lining into bag. Fold ½ in. (1.5 cm) of top edge of lining to wrong side, so that it is level with top of closing triangles, and slip stitch in place.
• If you want a twisted cord with 2 distinct strands of color, cut 5 lengths in one shade of the yarn and 5 in another. Knot the lengths together as usual, then keep the colors separate as you slip the yarn onto the hook. Arrange the loop of yarn so that the knots are level in the center and one color is at each end of the loop of yarn before you start to twist the strands together.
The patchwork effect of this simple shoulder bag is achieved with a clever technique called “entrelac”—a French word meaning interlaced design.
Use this sturdy bag for study materials as well as special occasions.
