DESIGNED BY Tanis Gray
This cardigan brings back memories of cold autumn and early winter afternoons spent hiking in the White Mountains of New England while I was growing up. I pushed up my sleeves so I could grab interesting leaves, rocks, and berries to show my dad. The three-quarter-length sleeves in this coat leave your arms and hands free to explore, while the wool/mohair blend provides warmth. The cable-and-lace pattern reminds me of the vegetation on the forest floor, and the heathered yarn, with its golds, reds, and oranges, evokes the colors of changing leaves.
About 33¾ (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼, 53¼, 57¼, 61¾)" (85.5 [94.5, 105, 115, 125, 135.5, 145.5, 155.5] cm) bust circumference, buttoned with 1" (2.5 cm) overlap.
Coat shown measures 37¼" (94.5 cm).
Yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
Shown here: Green Mountain Spinnery Mountain Mohair (70% wool, 30% yearling mohair; 140 yd [128 m]/2 oz): spice, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins.
Needles
Body and sleeves: size U.S. 9 (5.5 mm): 24" (60 cm) circular (cir) and set of 5 double-pointed (dpn).
Edging and collar: size U.S. 7 (4.5 mm): 24" (60 cm) cir and set of 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Notions
Smooth waste yarn of comparable gauge for provisional cast-on; markers (m); cable needle (cn); stitch holders; tapestry needle; seven (seven, seven, eight, eight, nine, nine, nine) ¾" (2 cm) buttons.
Gauge
16 sts and 23 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st on larger needles.
19 sts of Cable and Lace chart = 3¾" (9.5 cm) wide.
* Each yarnover must be accompanied by a corresponding decrease. If there are not enough stitches to work both the yarnover and its companion decrease, work the stitches in stockinette instead.
With larger cir needle and waste yarn, use a provisional method (see Glossary) to CO 57 (61, 65, 69, 73, 77, 81, 85) sts. Do not join.
RAGLAN SET-UP ROW: (WS) P10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) for front, place marker (pm), p9 for sleeve, pm, p19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33) for back, pm, p9 for sleeve, pm, p10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) for front.
PATT SET-UP ROW: (RS) K1 (selvedge st), work first 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts of Cable and Lace chart (see page 53) for left front, yo, k1, slip marker (sl m), k1, yo, work center 7 sts of chart for sleeve, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6), work center 17 (19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19) sts of chart for back, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6), yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, work center 7 sts of chart for sleeve, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo, work last 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts of chart for right front, k1 (selvedge st)— 8 sts inc’d.
NEXT ROW: (WS) Working inc’d sts into established patt, *p1, work to 1 st before m, p1, slip marker (sl m); rep from * 3 times, work to last st, p1.
INC ROW: (RS) Cont in patt, *work to 1 st before m, yo, k1, sl m, k1, yo; rep from * 3 times, work to end of row—8 sts inc’d.
NOTE: Once 19 sts of chart have been established on each section, work remaining increased sts in St st.
Rep the last 2 rows 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) more times, ending with a RS row—257 (277, 297, 317, 337, 357, 377, 397) sts total; 35 (38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56) sts for each front, 59 (63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87) sts for each sleeve, 69 (75, 81, 87, 93, 99, 105, 111) sts for back; piece measures about 8¾ (9½, 10, 10¾, 11½, 12¼, 12¾, 13¼)" (22 [24, 25.5, 27.5, 29, 31, 32.5, 34.5] cm) from CO, measured straight down at center back.
With WS facing, *purl to m, place 59 (63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87) sts on holder for sleeve, CO 2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15) sts for underarm; rep from * once, purl to end—143 (157, 173, 189, 205, 221, 237, 253) sts rem for body.
Cont in patt until piece measures 11¼ (11½, 12, 12¼, 12½, 12¾, 13¼, 13½)" (28.5 [29, 30.5, 31.5, 32, 32.5, 33.5, 34.5] cm) from underarm CO ending with a WS row.
Change to smaller cir needle and work even in garter st (knit every row) for 1" (2.5 cm). Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
With RS facing, arrange 59 (63, 67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87) sleeve sts as evenly as possible on 3 larger dpn. With a fourth dpn, pick up and knit 2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15) sts from underarm and pm as close to the center of these sts as possible—61 (66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102) sts total. Join for working in rnds.
Cont in patt, work 5 rnds even.
DEC RND: K2tog, work in patt to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d.
Work 5 rnds even. Rep the last 6 rnds 5 more times—49 (54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90) sts rem.
Cont even in patt until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from pick-up rnd, ending with an even numbered rnd of chart.
Change to smaller dpn and work even in garter st for 1" (2.5 cm).
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
Block to measurements.
With RS facing, smaller cir needle, and beg at upper left front edge, pick up and knit 61 (63, 67, 70, 72, 75, 79, 81) sts evenly spaced along left front. Knit 8 rows, ending with a RS row. Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
With RS facing, smaller cir needle, and beg at lower right front edge, pick up and knit 61 (63, 67, 70, 72, 75, 79, 81) sts evenly spaced along right front. Knit 3 rows.
BUTTONHOLE ROW: (RS) K3 (4, 3, 3, 4, 5, 3, 4), yo, k2tog, *k7 (7, 8, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7), yo, k2tog; rep from * 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) more times, k2 (3, 2, 2, 3, 4, 2, 3)—7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) buttonholes made.
Knit 4 rows even.
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
With smaller cir needle, RS facing, and beg at top of buttonhole band, pick up and knit 4 sts from buttonhole band, carefully remove waste yarn from CO row and place 57 (61, 65, 69, 73, 77, 81, 85) exposed sts onto needle and knit across, then pick up and knit 4 sts from button band—65 (69, 73, 77, 81, 85, 89, 93) sts total. Do not join.
Beg with a WS row, work in garter st for 3" (7.5 cm), ending with a RS row.
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
Weave in loose ends.
Sew buttons to buttonband, opposite buttonholes.
