36
RUNNING OF THE BULLS
Where?
The streets of central Pamplona, located in the northern Spanish province of Navarra.
When?
The first or second week of July.
Significance:
The Encierro, a.k.a. the “Running of the Bulls,” started in 1910 during a festival where drovers ran bulls used in bullfights for the evening from their enclosure, through sectioned-off streets in Pamplona, and into the pens of the bullring, Plaza de Toros. Locals began the tradition of jumping in and running alongside the bulls. As time went on, they became more daring by running in front of the bulls.
Ceremonial rockets are fired from the upper balcony of Town Hall building to start the Encierro as thousands of people pop corks off bottles of Cava (champagne). The first is for the bulls. The second is for the runners. Dressed in white with red bandanas, the crowds sing songs and cheer San Fermín as the nine-day festival commences.
Today, six bulls and six steers weighing between 500 and 700 kg do anything but lumber through the streets. They move fast, covering the entire 830 meters in about three minutes. Running uphill along Santo Domingo takes about thirty seconds. With so little time, runners can ill afford to make any mistakes. Injuries from goring and trampling are all too common for both runners and bulls.
Who attends?
There are few psychological profiles of those who would impede the progress of a charging, snorting animal with sharp horns. Since 1852, men and women have donned white jeans, shirts, red bandanas, sashes, and, of course, running shoes to run the route of Santo Domingo Street, Plaza Consistorial, Estafeta Street, and the dangerously winding Mercaderes Street.
Tickets:
No tickets. Just show up donning your red cape and, again, good running shoes.
Accommodations:
Hotel AC Ciudad de Pamplona
Calle Iturrama, 21
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31007, Spain
Phone: +34 948 266 011
Fax: +34 948 173 626
www.ac-hotels.comNote: Completely renovated, 117-room hotel conveniently located near the university areas of the city.
Zenit Pamplona
Calle, No.1
Parque Comercial Galaria
Pamplona, Navarra, 31191, Spain
Phone: +34 948 292 600
Fax: +34 948 292 601
www.zenithoteles.comNote: Located in the middle of a shopping area. Five-minute drive from the town center and three minutes from the international airport.
El Hotel NH Iruña Park
Arcadio Mª Larraona, 1
Pamplona, Navarra, 31008, Spain
Phone: +34 948 197 119
Note: Located in the suburbs, but not far from the city’s historic center.
Gran Hotel La Perla
Plaza Del Castillo 1
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31001, Spain
Phone: +34 948 223 000
Fax: +34 948 222 324
www.granhotellaperla.comNote: Known as Ernest Hemingway’s favorite hotel during his visits.
On-Site Hospitality and Events: The Chupinazo: A recent but one of the most recognized images of the Fiesta of San Fermín, the launching of the rocket signifies the start of the festivities as Bull Run enthusiasts gather in the Plaza Consistorial. Entry to the event held every July 6th is free.
The Procession: The 7th of July is the Day of San Fermín and the main day of the fiesta. Locals have great affection for this celebration and longstanding tradition when San Fermín leaves his refuge at the Church of San Lorenzo to Pamplona. Thousands of people in white accompany the image of the saint while touring the Historical Quarter. Local civil and religious leaders can be seen as well.
The Giants and Bigheads: From July 7th to July 14th, a company of Kings and Queens are preceded by an escort of Bigheads, Kilikis, and Zaldikos (horses) from Pamplona’s Company of Giants and Bigheads. Along with the saint, these twenty-five papier mâché characters are the most beloved fixtures of the fiesta. Every morning, a procession travels through the center of the city as the giants, carried by mozos, dance to the music of pipers.
The Bullfights and the Peñas: The arena stages bullfights every afternoon at 6:30 P.M., while Peñas (San Fermín clubs), 5,000 strong, fill the stands. Each adorned in loose-hanging shirts with a shield, anthem, brass band, and banner, they are the feature and very noisy attraction of this event.
Travel Packages:
If you are going to travel to this event, I would recommend using a reliable company to work with you on making the necessary arrangements. The suppliers listed in this book have solid references and are by far the most trusted in the business. Below are some of the organizations to try for this Top 100 Must See Sporting Event.
Premiere Corporate Events
14 Penn Plaza, Suite 925
New York, NY 10122
Phone: (212) 695-9480
Fax: (212) 564-8098
Toll-Free: 1-877-621-5243
E-mail: requests@tseworld.com
www.tseworld.comwww.pcevents.comPremiere Sports Travel
201 Shannon Oaks Circle, Suite 205
Cary, NC 27511
Phone: (919) 481-9511
Fax: (919) 481-1337
Toll-Free: 1-800-924-9993
E-mail: sales@sportstravel.com
www.sportstravel.comDining:
Food and drinks are pricey during the festival and are based on whether you are sitting at a table or standing at the bar. Meals of bull stew or Navarra trout can be found in the area, along with liters and liters of sangria.
Café Roch
Calle Comedias 6
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31001, Spain
Phone: +34 948 222 390
Note: Famous for the tosta (large piece of bread, side up) with Roquefort and tosta with green peppers.
Café Bar Gaucho
Note: Famous for the fried pepper and other fried foods.
Casa Otano
Calle San Nicolás 5
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31001, Spain
Phone: +34 948 227 036
Fax: +34 948 212 012
www.casaotano.comNote: Famous for “montados,” which are small pieces of bread with a little piece of chorizo, tortilla, ham, cheese, etc. They’re very popular in Spanish restaurants.
La Navarra
Note: Famous for their tortilla de patatas . . . this is the Spanish egg and potato omelette.
La Olla
Avenida Roncesvalles 2
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31002, Spain
Phone: +34 948 229 558
www.laolla.comNote: Famous for their montados/montaditos with Spanish cured ham.
El Burgalés
Calle Comedias 5
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, Spain 31001
Phone: +34 948 225 158
Note: Pinchos are small bites of something . . . a lot of pinchos make a tapa, and tapas are famous in Spain.
El Burladero
Calle Emilio Arrieta 9
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31002, Spain
Phone: +34 948 228 034
Note: Famous for their pinchos . . . of many different things.
Monasterio
Calle Espoz Y Mina 11
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31002, Spain
Phone: +34 948 212 859
Note: Known for their fried eggs and their pincho of bacalao, a type of white fish very famous in northern dishes.
Restaurante Europa
Calle Espoz Y Mina 11
Pamplona, Navarra, 31002, Spain
Phone: +34 948 221 800
Fax: +34 948 229 235
www.hreuropa.comNote: Navarra is the region Pamplona is in. This place is famous for their innovative Navarrian style food. More expensive option.
Hartza
Calle Juan De Labrit 19
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31001, Spain
Phone: +34 948 224 568
Note: Traditional food from the Navarra region. More expensive option.
San Ignacio
Avenida San Ignacio 10
Pamplona, Navarra, 31002, Spain
Phone: +34 948 227 033
Note: Mediterranean cuisine and regional food from Navarra—good and relatively cheap.
Don Pablo
Note: Their specialty is fish and seafood, as the northern part of Spain is famous for good quality seafood because the water up north is very cold and shellfish are better in cold waters.
Café con Sal
Calle Juan De Labrit 29
Pamplona/Iruña, Navarra, 31001, Spain
Phone: +34 948 227 927
Note: Designer food at reasonable prices.
Airports:
The airport in Noáin is 6 kilometers from Pamplona with daily flights to and from Barcelona or Madrid.
Bilbao airport is 150 kilometers from Pamplona with international flights coming in with passengers taking buses to attend the Encierro.
Sports Travel Insider’s Edge:
Best way to watch the action:
A boat load of euros will get you a rented balcony from a local resident. Those looking for renters will usually hang a notice from their balcony. Free seating is available in the bullring at the end of the run.
Best way to partake in the action and get up close:
Recognize the risks and dangers of running with the bulls. Appropriate clothing, particularly running shoes, is highly recommended. You must be over eighteen and it is recommended that you be sober and well rested. Have someone hold a purse or backpack for you. Keep running and be aware of your surroundings. Do not try to make contact with or distract a bull, as a lone bull is more dangerous than the overall herd. Finally, if you fall, lie still with your head covered. My advice if you definitely don’t want to deal with a horn in your leg is to watch instead of run. It’s certainly a little safer that way but then again it’s an experience. . . .
Best travel tip:
Arrive between 5:30 and 6:30 A.M. to avoid the crowds and dress warm for the cooler Pamplona mornings.
Notable Quotes:
“We will definitely be back again. My brother will never run [in the festival] again, but he would like to come back to celebrate.”—LAWRENCE LENAHAN, after he and his brother Michael were gored at the Running of the Bulls
“You can either sit on the couch and watch life go by, or you can go out and try to do these things around the world. If that means getting a horn in the leg, I guess that’s the chance I took.”—MICHAEL LENAHAN, Running of the Bulls participant, on being gored by a bull
Relevant Websites: