ITALY, COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A lingerie model, rich and almost unbearably smooth.
In the United States, mascarpone rarely appears except in desserts, like tiramisù, but in Italy mascarpone (rhymes with “NASCAR-pony”) is a staple. Its creamy consistency is the texture of whipped butter, and it can be spread on toast in much the same way. If you’re a fan of cream cheese, you’ll clutch your bosom when you taste this close cousin, which is many times more luscious. In fact, it’s really not a cheese—it’s satin.
Mascarpone is made from cream without the addition of rennet, a coagulant used in cheesemaking. Technically, this means mascarpone isn’t really a cheese at all; it’s more akin to yogurt. In Italy, this sweet stuff is tucked into ravioli, spooned onto grilled fruit, or swirled into soups as a final garnish. For a snack in certain parts of Italy, mascarpone is served in ice cream bowls, topped with sugar, grated dark chocolate, and finely ground coffee beans. Meow.
Good matches: Use mascarpone as you would cream cheese or whipped cream. Spread it on scones or toasted challah, or serve it with fresh berries and a touch of honey. Check out the Tapas on the Patio cheese board (page 35).
Wine/beer: Prosecco or a bubbly Belgian beer is the magic choice here since effervescence is the key to unlocking rich, fatty cheeses.
One Di Bruno Bros. customer swears by mascarpone for topping cakes. She combines equal parts mascarpone and Nutella, then spreads it across sheet cake or brownies. You can also stir some cinnamon into plain mascarpone and press it between amaretti. A thin layer of apricot preserves makes for a most exquisite sandwich cookie.