ITALY, COW OR BUFFALO MILK
PERSONALITY: A true baby face, round and soft with a sweet character.
Great mozzarella should always taste pillowy and ephemeral. This light texture is achieved by stretching warm curds into long ribbons—a process that is similar to pulling and spinning wool to make yarn. The method was developed around Naples in the second century when water buffalo milk was plentiful. Old timers still ask for “mozzarella di bufala” at the cheese counter, and when it’s available, this rare treat is worth trying. It’s complex in flavor, and the texture is sensuous.
When you buy fresh mozzarella, eat it straight away. The longer it sits around, the more it congeals into a tough little cue ball. If you ever get the chance to try warm mozzarella right out of the vat, go for it. You’ll melt into your shoes.
Good matches: You don’t need much more than a loaf of crusty bread, some good olive oil, and a fresh tomato. For a summer cheese plate, add an assortment of olives, fresh basil, prosciutto, and melon or peaches. For an irreverent cheesemonger favorite: slice a glazed yeast doughnut lengthwise and stuff it with mozzarella di bufala.
Wine/beer: Pick up a bottle of Prosecco, or opt for a Pilsner or lager. A cold Peroni always works well.
ITALY, COW, GOAT, OR SHEEP’S MILK
PERSONALITY: The kid sister of the family—sweet, likable, and amenable to almost everything.
Fresh ricotta should be airy and light, like the featherbed of an angel. The key is buying it fresh from the cheese counter or making it yourself, an easy-peasy achievement as long as you use quality, fresh milk. This is an un-aged cheese, best eaten soon after it’s made. Commercially prepared ricotta can be grainy and tasteless, but the real deal is fluffy—like perfectly cooked grits—with a mild, milky taste and smell.
Ricotta is rich in protein and low in fat, which makes it a useful alterative to cream cheese or butter, especially for spreading on toast or sandwiches. It’s made from whey, a byproduct of cheesemaking, and the name literally means “recooked.” In Italy, ricotta is used in pastries, like cannoli, or in savory dishes, like pasta al forno (baked pasta). Aged and salted, it’s sold as ricotta salata, which can be grated or cubed. Both fresh ricotta and ricotta salata are great summer cheeses that accentuate ripe tomatoes.
Good matches: On the patio, set out a dish of fresh ricotta with a bottle of good olive oil, some sea salt, and grilled Italian bread. For dessert, serve a scoop of fresh ricotta over peaches or berries, followed by a drizzle of honey and some toasted almonds. Use ricotta salata—which is firm and salty—much as you would feta, crumbled over heirloom tomatoes, watermelon, or salad greens.
Wine/beer: Try a glass of dry rosé. A light beer is a good choice for ricotta appetizers.