ENGLAND, RAW SHEEP’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A stoic figure with a biscuity crust and firm interior.
Berkswell is a sweet and subtle cheese with a reptilian appearance. The wheels are shaped like flying saucers with distinct markings: imprints from the colanders in which the curds are drained. The Fletchers, a sixth-generation dairy family, began making this unique cheese at their home, Ram Hall, in the West Midlands back in the ’90s. Now it’s a much-loved English specialty, appreciated for its seasonality and subtle flavor.
In spring, you’ll find Berkswell to be lactic and fruity; in fall, the profile changes dramatically, turning musky. As the pasture diet of the ewes changes, so does the taste of the milk. If you’re a fan of Manchego (page 51), you’ll find Berkswell to be a nuanced next step for your palate. The texture is similarly firm, but the taste pulls in both sweet and savory notes, like a beautifully caramelized roast.
Good matches: Berkswell is just the right cheese to serve alongside a rustic stew. It also pairs well with potatoes. In summer, take it on a picnic with rosemary bread and fresh fruit.
Wine/beer: Pair with a Côtes du Rhône or a wheat beer.
In 2010, we hosted a Scotch and cheese pairing conducted by Rory Stone, maker of Strathdon Blue (page 240). Because the art of pairing Scotch with cheese was still in its nascent stages, the format of the event was more open forum than instruction. We presented six Scotches and six cheeses, with enough cheese for guests to taste each cheese with each Scotch. The results were very surprising.
While we thought that the bigger cheeses—Ardrahan (page 142), Keen’s (page 171) and Montgomery’s Cheddars (page 172) and Stichelton (page 174)—would stand up to the big, burly Scotches, the near unanimous favorite was Berkswell. Perhaps the sheepy flavors so evocative of eponymous Scottish wool had something to do with it, but what was sure was that the subtleness of Berkswell seemed to cut the alcohol bite while elevating the peaty, smoky flavors. This has been my go-to Scotch pairing ever since.
– CHEESEMONGER HUNTER FIKE