UNITED STATES, COW AND GOAT’S MILK
PERSONALITY: The Dorothy Parker of triple crèmes: biting but fashionable.
Nettle Meadow Farm in Thurman, New York, introduced this churlish smoothie a few years ago, and of course it became an instant phenom. Esquire deemed it one the sexiest cheeses in America, which probably prompted a lot of hulky types to run from their gyms straight to the cheese counter, anticipating a fey little puck without a lot of chutzpah. Think again, boys! Kunik (rhymes with tunic) is a hellraiser, tangy and saucy with a shock of black pepper that hits the back of your throat when this cheese is very ripe. Imagine a Robiola (page 107) with a horseradish vodka chaser.
Of course Kunik’s strength is age-dependent. Young, this round of triple crème flirts with you, but leave it in the fridge for a week and this she-lion roars. Lorraine Lambiase and Sheila Flanagan make this cheese by hand at their 50-acre farm in the Adirondacks, using a combination of the farm’s own goats’ milk mixed with rich Jersey cream. If you like peppery Bries and Robiolas and you’re not scared of a little “barnyard,” you’ll appreciate the complexity of this back-talkin’ butter bomb. Few triple crèmes have this much flavor.
Good matches: Kunik pairs well with roasted beets and arugula; try using a slice to top a summer salad. It can also handle exotic matches, like pickled garlic scapes or brandied cherries. An herby honey, like one touched with lavender, also pairs well.
Wine/beer: Go pink. Pick out a fruity rosé, or serve up a sparkly cocktail garnished with lavender or thyme. A Sauvignon Blanc can pal around with this, too, when it’s on the young side; otherwise, lean on a New York Riesling. A wheat beer will be stellar, but only if you’ve got a young Kunik. A whacky lambic can take an aged round to the mat.
SPAIN, RAW SHEEP’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A gutsy broad, slightly feral, with a lot of soul.
I like to think that if Dolly Parton were going to fall in love with a cheese, it would be this one. Why? Each round is bound in lace to hold its creamy center intact, and the flavor profile calls to mind, well, artichoke dip. I’m talking heavenly artichoke dip—the kind you pull out of the oven, bubbly on top and gooey within. There aren’t many cheeses that combine feminine fashion with potlucky grace, and that’s why I’m singing “Coat of Many Colors” to this one.
Be forewarned: this is a funky cheese, bold and pungent with a delicate vegetal hook. The vegetal taste comes from thistle rennet, which is used as a coagulant during the early stages of cheese-making. The rennet is gathered from cardoons, thistle-like plants that grow in spiky patches across the rough-and-tumble Extremadura region of Spain.
Good matches: Scoop this onto rustic bread, along with strong-flavored sides like cornichons, olives, nuts, and cured meats. Try it with steamed or oil-cured artichokes, or see the party suggestion below in the Cheesemonger Note.
Wine/beer: This is a versatile cheese. The Spanish serve it with Cava or Oloroso sherry, but its slightly beefy nature begs for beer—try a saison. For something unexpected, go for a gin-based cocktail.
I like to think of most Spanish cheeses as chameleons. Very few of them stand out as open, proud, and ready to be consumed on their own. Most, like Manchego (page 51), Garrotxa (page 48) and Mahón (page 50), blend into a supporting cast for what Spain does best, which is all things cured pork. This is not a knock on Spanish cheese; the mentality there is that their cheeses should work in harmony with the rest of their epicurean delights.
One exception to the rule is La Serena. This raw sheep’s milk cheese is soft and goopy, but it packs a powerful punch. Owing to its thistle rennet coagulation, there is a sour, savory sharpness not usually found in two-month-old cheeses. La Serena is a fabulous party cheese, especially if you buy the whole wheel. Cut off the top rind, throw in a spoon for smearing, and surround with slices of toasted bread and Vinho Verde. Watch your guests ooh and ahh.
–CHEESEMONGER HUNTER FIKE
ITALY, COW, GOAT, AND SHEEP’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A jetsetter who only sleeps in silk.
La Tur looks like a pillbox hat that Jackie O. might have worn. It’s tiny, only two inches across, with a rippled, chenille-like surface the color of winter. It’s a personal blizzard, all packed into a tote. Carry it on your next flight, or serve it to a traveling dignitary who has never experienced snow. Under its little shearling rind, La Tur holds the secret to three milks: cow, goat, and sheep. Cream from all three animals is blended into a decadent trifecta that expresses each type: grassy, tangy, nutty. It’s utterly over-the-top.
Of course this luxury hails from the region of Piedmont, the home of so much good Italian wine and white truffles. La Tur is made by Caseificio Dell’Alta Langa, a company just outside the Italian town of Alba, a much-loved culinary center. The same company also produces luxe Robiola Bosina (page 107). If you don’t see La Tur at a cheese counter, ask for its cousin, Rocchetta.
Good matches: Serve this accessible cheese at a party alongside berries or jam. It’s also good with a drizzle of honey. Because La Tur has an ice-creamy quality, it’s very good in place of dessert. Some of us have been known to eat it on graham crackers with a spoonful of Amarena cherries in syrup.
Wine/beer: This cheese calls for a sparkling Asti Spumante or an effervescent lambic, preferably one made from cherries or peaches.
UNITED STATES, COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A geeky beauty that only listens to Chopin: highly coveted.
Like its name, Largo is a cheese that is both gentle and stately. If you find yourself in possession of it, consider yourself lucky. This rare creation from Napa is more likely to appear on a cheese board at the French Laundry than anywhere east of California. That’s because Largo’s maker, Soyoung Scanlan, was sought out by Thomas Keller, a chef who has made a career out of perfection. His cheese boards are notorious for their beauty and purity.
If you like the whipped quality of Délice de Bourgogne (page 95), you’ll love the texture of this handmade version, which is pure alchemy. Scanlan is famous for drawing out every note in her milk and for bringing unparalleled artistry to the tradition of French-style cheesemaking. Her intensity is legendary; rumor has it, she sometimes sleeps in her cheese cave just to feel the humidity levels on her skin. Organic Jersey milk combined with crème fraîche makes this subtle stunner a conversation piece. For a superlative triple crème made from goat’s milk, look for Andante Dairy’s Minuet.
Good matches: Serve this with fresh apricots or berries. It needs little in the way of gewgaws to dress it up. In fact, you may not even need baguette.
Wine/beer: Go California all the way. Pick up a Sauvignon Blanc or something bubbly. For a stellar beer pairing, try Allagash Victoria, a Belgian ale that incorporates Chardonnay grapes into the mash.