UNITED STATES, RAW COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: The Brigitte Bardot of Wisconsin cheese—sensuous, otherworldly.
This glowing moon of perfect Wisconsin milk is made in the style of Vacherin Mont d’Or (page 136), a custardy Alpine cheese that’s only available in winter. At Uplands Cheese Company, where Rush Creek Reserve was developed, cheesemaker Andy Hatch wanted to create a washed-rind cheese out of autumn milk when his cows transition off pasture onto straw and grain. (He uses spring and summer milk to make Pleasant Ridge Reserve, page 128, one of the most stunning cheeses in America.)
The result is ethereal, a pudding-like creation bound in spruce bark that tastes like nuts and spring onions. The rind is delicate enough to pierce with a spoon, so you can ladle the soft center onto bread. When this cheese debuted in 2010, the New York Times ran a rave and it became the cheese of the moment. Waiting lists still precede Rush Creek around the holidays.
Good matches: With warm baguette and a plate of crudité, you’ve got an elegant appetizer no one will forget. Peel back the top rind, and this wheel becomes heavenly dip.
Wine/beer: A Riesling is perfect. Otherwise, try a malty Belgian or a cherry lambic.
UNITED STATES, RAW COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A rebel Gruyère made in the U.S.: big and beautiful.
Although many people have the impression that the best cheese comes from France, when they try Tarentaise they experience a revelation. Made in Vermont, this stunning Alpine-style cheese is arguably better than its European counterpart, Abondance. The flavors are bold without being sharp, and the sweet-savory notes play off one another like a young couple at a barn dance. You’ll taste ripe fruit, hazelnuts, and toasted bread. It’s a picnic lunch wrapped in a rind.
Tarentaise originated in North Pomfret, where a pair of corporate evacuees, John and Janine Putnam, shacked up to make a new life. They were so successful with this cheese that they enlisted the help of a neighbor to keep up with supply. Now, both farms—Thistle Hill and Spring Brook—produce this ravishing beauty. It’s a great example of what an American cheese can be when makers start with quality organic milk, a copper cauldron, and enough patience to age their cheeses slowly and gracefully. Tarentaise is made by hand every step of the way.
Good matches: Use this as you would Gruyère, served atop French onion soup or tucked into a sandwich. To showcase its flavors, pair it with date cake, a pressed delicacy made of dates and almonds.
Wine/beer: Choose a fruity red, like a Pinot Noir or Grenache. A dark, malty beverage also works well. Try a doppelbock.
FRANCE, COW’S MILK
PERSONALITY: A home-schooled hitchhiker with psychedelic fur.
Crayeuse, which means “chalky,” defines the character of this unusual cheese from the Savoie. It’s powdery on the outside, with two layers of filling inside: one that’s intensely creamy and another that’s damp and clayey. Together, they create a gorgeous cheese, both visually and texturally. Prepare your palate for an equally interesting range of flavors: damp earth, wood mushrooms, and wild yeast. It’s a head rush of truffle-y soft pretzel.
Tomme Crayeuse was created in 1997 by the well-known affineur, Max Schmidhauser. For fans of Tomme de Savoie (page 135), this is a pleasant departure. Anyone who has rind issues will do well to cut off the exterior, which tends to develop pollen-yellow splotches. Cheese geeks find this one enchanting, but newbies will beg for mercy. As a conversation-piece, this cheese is totally worth exploring.
Good matches: Hunt this one down for a garden party or a rustic French cheese plate. Serve it with raspberries, toasted walnuts, or a salad of fresh herbs and mushrooms. Of course, it’s bliss with nothing more than fresh bread and jam.
Wine/beer: This is a great before-dinner cheese, especially with a buttery Chardonnay or a smooth Pinot Noir. You can also swing bubbly, with Champagne. Try a wheat beer.