Rising-ebook-32

Allison Andrews climbs below me on the first pitch of Air Voyage at Lake Louise in 1985. Pat Morrow photo

The 1984 Makalu West Ridge Team, left to right: Charlie Sassara, Ken Bassett (expedition doctor), me, Dwayne Congdon and Albi Sole. The upper part of our route is directly behind Albi, half in shadow. Carlos Buhler photo

I lead the first pitch of Bourgeau Right-Hand in the Canadian Rockies in 1985. Pat Morrow photo

The 1977 Mount Logan Canadian Women’s Team, back row, left to right: Kathy Calvert, Lorraine Drewes, Judy Sterner, me and Diana Knaack. Cathy Langill is in front. Photo courtesy author’s collection

The Canadian Everest Light Team: Standing, left to right: Laurie Skreslet and Kevin Doyle. Back row, left to right: Barry Blanchard, Dan Griffith, Dwayne Congdon, James Blench and Dave McNab. Front row, left to right: Jim Elzinga, me, Chris Shank, Albi Sole and Dr. Bob Lee. Jane Fearing is missing from the photo. Courtesy of the Continental Bank

We are the first team to arrive at Basecamp in the pre-monsoon season of 1986. Mount Everest is fifteen kilometres due south at the head of the Rongbuk Valley. The American Great Couloir team and Spanish Northeast Ridge team will arrive a few days later. About forty of us will occupy the Rongbuk Valley. Jim Elzinga photo

Albi hefts a box onto our cargo trucks in Lhasa, bound for Basecamp. Jim Elzinga photo

Yaks shuttle approximately two tonnes of our supplies the first six kilometres to Camp One. Team photo

A view of Everest from Camp One. Our route winds through the penitentes (ice pinnacles) of the Rongbuk Glacier to Camp Two which is located at the bottom right end of the north face. Jim Elzinga photo

A team member walks up the Rongbuk Glacier between Camp One and Camp Two. Jim Elzinga photo

Team members walk down the glacier at 6,000 metres. Camp Two is hidden in a hollow, centre page, near the lowest point of the rock face. Our route follows the left-hand edge of the rock to gain the snow arête (spur) above. Jim Elzinga photo

Dr. Bob prepares to operate on Dwayne’s sore throat at Camp Two. Jim Elzinga photo

Jane makes pancakes in our kitchen shelter at Camp Two. Jim Elzinga photo

Chris Shank shows the ravages of the sun and altitude. Many of us wore light disposable surgical masks to protect our airways from airborne silt down low, and at the higher altitudes, to retain moisture in the arid and often windy climate. Jim Elzinga photo

Team members carry loads on the headwall above Camp Two. Team photo

A climber carries a load on the spur above the headwall at approximately 6,300 metres. Team photo

Kevin Doyle is near Camp Three talking into one of our massive radios. Jim Elzinga photo

Team members are on their way down the West Ridge and nearing Camp Four at 7,300 metres. Team photo

Dan is left of James at Camp Four at 7,300 metres on the West Ridge. Team photo

A view from around 7,200 metres shows the 1.5-kilometre-long stretch of ridge we follow to reach Camp Five at the base of Everest’s upper pyramid. Jim Elzinga photo

The summit bid meeting is held in the Camp Two kitchen shelter. Left to right: Barry, Dwayne (hidden behind Barry), Albi and me. Jim Elzinga photo

Dave McNab climbs at 7,700 metres across the Diagonal Ditch above Camp Five. Sharon Wood photo

We reach the summit at 9 p.m. Dwayne Congdon photo

Laurie helps Dwayne and me recover at Camp Five on our descent from the summit. Dan Griffith photo

Kevin, Jim, James and Barry (left to right) are delighted to hear from Dwayne and me that we are twenty feet from the summit. Chris Shank photo

My son Robin, in utero, and I pose with Canmore’s Three Sisters in the background. Barbara Woodley photo

My son Robin is five years old on a family climbing day in Cougar Creek in Canmore in 1995. Colleen Campbell photo

My son Daniel is twelve years old on this scramble up Schaffer Ridge in Lake O’Hara in 2004. Pat Morrow photo

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