Taipei/
Detour
I CAN NEVER VISIT THE FAR EAST without a small helping of Taipei on my agenda. It’s a destination that has been overlooked by many, including Phileas Fogg, or treated as just a whistle-stop on the way to the far more glamourous Hong Kong or Singapore. Well, although Tapei may be a detour from Fogg’s route, don’t you believe that it is not worth your time. Taiwan’s capital city is, in reality, the capital of Chinese food. Among those who fled China after Mao’s takeover were many fine cooks from every mainland province. This particular migration disproved the adage that too many cooks spoil the egg drop soup. On the contrary, not only did the soup improve because of these regional masters but dining in Taipei became an adventure in diversity. Within the city limits there is a culinary empire made up of all of the great cuisines of China. On any given day, the best of Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong as well as the provinces of Sichuan, Fukien and Hunan, are served up with enormous pride. You could call it a culinary national anthem.
Taiwan was once known as Ilha Formosa, the Portuguese name for “beautiful island.” The Portuguese were inspired to name it that in 1544 when they discovered it. The Dutch, in 1624, found it even more attractive and claimed it as a new colony.
For a relatively small island Taipei has suffered through massive upheaval and conflict. The name Formosa rings a bell with people of a certain age since Formosa was a major World War II battle site. The Japanese who had staked their claim on the island in 1859 found it to be an essential staging area for operations by its navy during the Second World War. Formosa sustained heavy and repeated bombing by the American Forces. After the war, the island was made part of China. Formosa became Taiwan when the Chinese nationalists took over in 1949.
The Taipei of today is nothing like sophisticated and stylish Hong Kong. It’s much plainer and more dependable, like a slightly frumpy aunt that you can always count on for a quick hug and a slice of chocolate cake. As far as natural beauty is concerned, Taipei may come up a bit short compared to some Asian neighbors.
Through the years, Taiwan has become a symbol of political resistance and a commercial force, excelling in computer technology. Even as we speak, a more liberal China is making every effort to give Taiwan a big panda hug to entice it back into the fold. Taiwan has signaled that it just might be open to some lucrative persuasion. Stayed tuned.
DIN TAI FUNG – #42
Din Tai Fung long has been on my radar screen, and recently, Time magazine seems to have discovered it as well. Time rated it “one of the 10 best restaurants in the world.” Now that may be pushing the envelope just a bit, but there’s no denying that Din’s soup dumplings, those devilish little mouthfuls with a liquid surprise, would be on anyone’s short list for terrific and that explains the mob outside this bare bones store. So much for that little place no one knows about yet.
A window which is perpetually steamed up and a big red sign with Chinese lettering mark the spot for Din. Hang in there, the long wait gives you time to sneak a peek at others’ plates and fantasize about actually getting something to eat.
There are many choices on the menu aside from soup dumplings. Prawns done in a tart orange sauce or baked spare ribs and pork chops, for instance, but nothing even comes close to the delight of biting down ever so gently on those little pillows of tender dough and then savoring the rush of tasty broth that follows.
DIN TAI FUNG/ 194 XIN YI ROAD/ TEL: 02-2391-7719
Moderate
DIN TAI FUNG’S MILIEU
As with most of Taipei, everything is just a short walk or an inexpensive cab drive away. And so planning a trip to the National Palace Museum is a cinch. But after all of those soup dumplings, perhaps the best revenge is brisk exercise as well as some even brisker shopping to get you ready for your midnight snack.
My guess would have been that if one is referred to as the king of soy milk, not only is he a health food colossus but also someone who knows firsthand the meaning of “lactose intolerant.”
Photo by Aiki-dude
Not in Taipei. Soy milk shops are the equivalent of stateside Dairy Queens. Everyone gathers there for a quick pick-me-up with any number of soy milk concoctions made with either black or white soy milk and served hot or cold. I found that one of the more satisfying breakfasts in the city is a chilled glass of soy milk accompanied by a pair of deep-fried crullers. I know, I know, all the benefits of the soy milk are instantly cancelled out by the killer-crullers. But in Taipei, you’re often faced with the yin and yang of the Chinese kitchen, crullers and all.
YONGHE SOY MILK KING/ 132 FU XING SOUTH ROAD, SECTION 2/ 02-2702-1226
Inexpensive
YONGHE’S MILIEU
Yonghe is open 24 hours a day and filled with Xing South Road shoppers. The shops are also open late. Yonghe, by far the best of many soy milk shops on South Road, is a favorite destination. The area is packed solid with young, hip Taiwainese during the wee hours. You can stop in for a late or early breakfast, a light lunch or a quick snack, pre or post shopping. With all those options, how can you go wrong?
PENG YUAN – #44
If I had time for only one meal (horrors) in Taipei, I would choose to have it at Peng Yuan. It has long been the darling of the kitchen gods as well as most of the population. When I was last there, chef Peng Chang Gui was uncertain about his future (I guess we could all say that). But my meal there was well worth remembering as well as repeating as often as possible, and I’m keeping my chopsticks crossed. In the event that Peng finally has closed his doors, he can rejoice in the knowledge that his government has formally recognized him as a National Treasure.
The word around town is that to be taken seriously as a chef in Taipei, you had to make your bones, quite literally, with chef Peng. The dish that he’s best known for is a sybaritic Hunanese mixture of thick slices of smoked ham soaked in golden honey and then pressed between two slices of fresh-baked white bread. You could call it the world’s most brilliant ham sandwich. Peng’s other showstopper is a giant scallop, delicately steamed in its own bamboo cup and then drizzled with a rich-as-Bloomberg fish broth. You can bet your last water chestnut that in a city where the restaurant scene is taken almost as seriously as the Taiwanese Stock Market, Peng Yuan has money in the bank.
PENG YANG/ 380 LINSEN NORTH ROAD/ TEL: UNLISTED, NO RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED OR REQUIRED
Moderate
PENG YUAN’S MILIEU
Perhaps not right next door, but close enough with a short cab ride, is one of the most hiss-toric sights in the city: Snake Alley. This is home base for Asian health food addicts as well as a herpetologist or two. The street is lined with storefront restaurants adorned with cages filled with slithering sweeties who have limited futures. All the patron has to do is point to a cooperative cobra or a bashful boa and the maitre d’ will fillet the live reptile of choice before the diner’s very eyes. Sad to say, as I watched, what came to mind was a glorious vision of shoes. Before you can say snakeskin Manolos the meat has been thrown into a pot and simmered to make a hearty, good-for-what-ails-you, Snake Soup. Campbell’s, take note. Most Chinese believe that snake soup is not only a restorative but can be used as a jump start in the toujours l’amour department. Apparently Viagra will never replace a really delicious reptile in the hearts of the Taiwanese.
Snake Alley is also known as Huashi Street, but that’s no fun.
Author’s disclaimer: Snake Alley is not one of the recommended dining spots for the reader. This experience, while it may be sharper than a serpent’s tooth, is meant for viewing, not dining. Those who simply can’t resist a viper in a bowl, indulge at their own risk.
TEA AT THE GRAND HOTEL – #45
Not the best British Tea in Taipei, but not the worst either. It really doesn’t matter, whatever excuse you use to visit the Grand Hotel is worth it.
One of the visual wonders of Taipei, though no longer considered to be one of Taipei’s five-star hotels, the Grand is a magnificent structure. Perched on the top of a hill, it can be seen from almost anywhere in Taipei, like a monumental temple and almost as startling to come upon as Shangri La. The Grand’s public rooms are vast as well as extraordinary. From any of the terraces the views of the city below are sensational.
After Chiang Kai-Shek left mainland China, he needed an appropriate setting to entertain ambassadors and diplomats as well as an appropriate place to hold state functions. The Grand was opened in 1952 and was considered a magnificent, world class hotel. It became Chiang’s official diplomatic residence. The President and Madam Chiang Kai-Shek often stayed in the Grand’s Presidential Suite, which today can be reserved by anyone who has $4,850 to spare. Each of the Grand’s enormous levels (floors) is named for a different Chinese dynasty.
THE GRAND HOTEL/ 1 CHUNG SHAN ROAD NORTH/ TEL: 02-2886-8888
Moderate
Taipei/
Front Burner
APOCALYPSE NOW
Asian fusion, a DJ and beer on tap makes this a special spot for the young crowd in Taipei. Not for elegant dining but fun if you like beer with your egg rolls.
APOCALYPSE NOW/ 323 FUSHSING NORTH ROAD/ TEL: 2-2545-4628
C’EST BON
Forget the name, C’est Bon is not your mother’s French restaurant. In France c’est bon means “it’s good” but in Taipei it means “way of eating.” True to the restaurant’s name, chef Ah-jiau Chuang produces some of the best eating to be seen in Taipei in years, and that’s saying a lot. Her devotees line up in droves for her duck-taro and shrimp pancake as well as the other surprises that she has in store for them. They say arriving early is essential.
C'EST BON / 23 LANE 33/ CHUNG-SHANG NORTH ROAD/ TEL: 2-2531-6408
