ARTICHOKE CRAB CAKES

Makes 8 crab cakes

Danny grew up in Colorado and I grew up in southern California. We’re from the left half of the country. And in this half of the country, and particularly in the Pacific Northwest, there is only one crab worth mentioning: Dungeness crab. Fresh crabmeat is a treat around here, something we splurge on for birthdays and particular celebrations. Danny’s three favorite foods are crab, artichokes, and avocado, so on his birthday, I make him these crab cakes. They taste mostly of crab, uncluttered by other flavors but for artichokes and tarragon, which help the flavor of the crab sing.

• 6 ounces fresh Dungeness lump crabmeat
• ¾ cup gluten-free breadcrumbs
• ¼ cup mayonnaise (homemade mayo tastes the best but the stuff in a jar works too)
• ½ cup frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and finely chopped
• 1 large shallot, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
• 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• Dash Tabasco sauce
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 large egg, beaten
• Fat or oil of your choice for sautéing (we use olive oil)
• 1 large avocado, pitted, peeled, and chopped into small pieces

Prepare to bake. Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Make the crab cakes. Pick through the crabmeat carefully, removing any stray shells or cartilage. In a bowl, combine ¼ cup of the breadcrumbs and the mayonnaise. Add the crab to the bowl. Add the artichoke hearts, shallot, tarragon, lemon juice, and Tabasco and stir until well combined. Taste, then season with salt and pepper. The mixture will feel a little too loose to hold together in a ball, so add the egg and stir well to combine. Season again if you wish.

Cook the crab cakes. Make 2-ounce balls of the crab mixture, then pat each one into a thick round cake. Coat each crab cake with the remaining ½ cup of breadcrumbs on both sides.

Set a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the fat of your choice. Put 4 of the crab cakes into the hot fat. When the bottoms of the cakes have browned, about 3 minutes, flip the crab cakes and put the skillet in the oven. Cook until the crab cakes are firm and browned, 5 to 7 minutes.

Repeat with the remaining crab cakes and serve immediately, topped with the chopped avocado.

Feel like playing?

The crab cakes made in Maryland seem to be made most often with Old Bay seasoning, mustard, and Worcestershire. Add those flavors here instead.