Serves 8 to 10
NOT FAR FROM MY HOUSE IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL MIDWESTERN BAKERY—Vesecky’s in Berwyn, Illinois. It’s on a stretch of Cermak Road that decades ago was a wonderland of Czech-Bohemian bakeries, but only Vesecky’s remains, nearly 100 years after it first opened. If you get there early enough to see the spread as it first tumbles out, you’ll never forget the sights and smells. Vesecky’s houska, a rich, eggy, challah-esque braid, has a feather-light, cottony interior studded with golden raisins, and it’s the closest thing to heaven when toasted and buttered. In fact, when you buy Vesecky’s houska, you’ll be asked whether you’re planning to toast it, and offered loaves with or without a topping of flaked almonds, which will burn in a toaster.
While collecting recipes from my own family for this book, a recipe for houska was one of the first brought to my attention. Soon after, I was given a recipe from another relative for “Great Grandma Enzenbacher’s Norwegian Christmas Bread” and I realized the two recipes are nearly identical—the only difference being that the Norwegian Christmas Bread has candied cherries in place of half of the raisins, the addition of cinnamon, and is baked in loaf pans without braiding. So, I’m sharing with you the houska version of my family’s recipe, which is a bit more evergreen, and you can change it up as you wish when red candied cherries make their way into supermarkets during the holidays.
1 tablespoon instant yeast
¼ cup/57 g warm water (110° to 115°F/43° to 46°C)
½ cup/60 g golden raisins
⅓ cup/75 g boiling water
6 tablespoons/85 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup/50 g granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2½ cups/320 g unbleached all-purpose flour, spooned and leveled, divided, plus more for dusting
½ cup/113 g warm whole milk (110° to 115°F/43° to 46°C)
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Nonstick cooking spray or oil for bowl
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
Pinch of fine sea salt
Prepare the dough: In a small bowl, whisk together the yeast and warm water. Set aside to allow the yeast to dissolve, about 5 minutes.
In a separate small heatproof bowl, combine the raisins and boiling water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and set aside to soften for 5 minutes.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the egg, egg yolk, and lemon zest. Reduce the mixer speed to low and stir in about ½ cup/64 g of the flour until smooth. Slowly pour in the yeast mixture and the milk and mix until well blended.
Drain the raisins and pat them dry with a paper towel. If they’re still hot, allow to cool slightly.
To the mixer bowl, add the remaining 2 cups/256 g of flour, raisins, salt, and nutmeg and mix until a shaggy dough forms. Stop the mixer and switch to the dough hook attachment. Knead the dough on medium speed until smooth and shiny, 6 to 7 minutes. Lightly flour a work surface and turn out the dough onto it. Knead the dough by hand several times, making sure the raisins are evenly distributed throughout. Spray the mixer bowl with nonstick cooking spray or oil it lightly, and place the dough back in the bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.
Have ready a 9 × 5-inch/23 × 12.7 cm loaf pan. Lightly flour a work surface once again. Turn out the dough onto the work surface and divide into 3 equal pieces (weighing the ball of dough and dividing by 3 is the best way to ensure an even finished loaf). Shape each piece of dough into a thick rope about 10 inches/25 cm long. Lay the ropes parallel to one another. Beginning at the end farthest from you, pinch all 3 ropes together. Starting with the rope on the left, braid the 3 ropes together with a medium amount of tension—you want to have enough plaits to create an attractive loaf, but not so many that the braid is overly tight—too much tension will cause splitting down the center of the loaf. Pinch both ends of the braid together once more, then tuck the ends under neatly to form a loaf about 9 inches/23 cm long. Carefully transfer the dough to the loaf pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour more.
Position a rack to the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C.
In a small cup, whisk together the egg, water, and salt until liquefied. Brush the egg wash all over the top with a pastry brush, being sure to brush over the deep creases within the braid.
Bake until deeply golden and the bread sounds hollow when tapped, 35 to 40 minutes (the internal temperature should register between 190° and 200°F/88° and 93°C on an instant-read thermometer). Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Remove the bread from the pan and allow to cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.