REAL DEAL ST. LOUIS GOOEY BUTTER CAKE

Serves 12 to 15

THESE DAYS, WHEN PEOPLE HEAR ABOUT THIS CAKE, THEY’RE FAMILIAR WITH THE cake mix version involving all manner of instant puddings and what not, found on so many websites. I’ve always found that version cloying and more gloppy than gooey, and not really my style. Turns out, this popular version of “gooey butter cake” is just a shadow of what this midwestern classic was truly meant to be.

Then again, Gooey Butter Cake was never really meant to be at all. It was a happy accident when a baker in St. Louis, intending to make one of his bakery’s traditional German yeasted coffeecakes, made a ratio-swapping mistake and way too much butter was added to the coffeecake topping. That mistake proved profitable, and people in St. Louis and beyond have loved the concept ever since. When you make it from scratch, it becomes more balanced in flavor and texture, and even more lovable. Some folks serve it as a coffeecake, some as a special occasion cake. I’ll eat it whenever, especially with a few modern ingredient tweaks to improve levels of sweetness, richness, and crave-worthy chew.

DOUGH:

Nonstick cooking spray for pan

1 batch Buttery, Yeast-Raised Coffeecake Dough (here), first rise complete

All-purpose flour for dusting

TOPPING:

½ cup/113 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 ounces/113 g full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature

1 cup/200 g granulated sugar

⅓ cup/75 g firmly packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup/84 g light corn syrup

1 large egg, at room temperature

1 cup/128 g unbleached all-purpose flour, spooned and leveled

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Prepare the dough: Position a rack to the center of the oven and preheat it to 325°F/170°C. Spray a 9 × 13-inch/23 × 33 cm glass baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.

After the dough has finished its first rise, flour your hands and pat the dough into an even layer into the prepared pan. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise a second time for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the topping: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and cream cheese on medium-high speed until smooth and creamy. Add the granulated and brown sugars, vanilla, and salt, and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the corn syrup and egg and beat until smooth. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually stir in the flour. Fold the batter by hand a few times with a large flexible spatula until well blended.

When the dough has finished its second rise, dollop the topping over the dough. Use a small offset spatula to spread it evenly.

Bake until puffed and golden, but still quite loose in the center, about 40 minutes (it will appear almost liquid under the surface in spots, but will quickly set upon cooling. Have a peek at the bottom of the cake through the glass dish; if it’s deeply golden, you’re in good shape). Let cool completely in the pan set on a wire rack. Dust with confectioners’ sugar before slicing and serving.