Serves 7
IN DENMARK, THIS BREAKFAST PASTRY—MADE OF SEVEN INDIVIDUAL, FILLED DANISH pastry rolls nestled in a bed of luscious custard—is often known as smorkage, meaning “buttercake.” It can be made with an enriched yeast dough like you’d use for cinnamon rolls, or with a flaky pastry. In Racine-area bakeries famous for their kringle, you’ll find it made with the latter, and charmingly called Seven Sisters.
Since Denmark sits snugly between the North and Baltic Seas, the Danes have naturally always been a seafaring people. The star cluster known as Pleiades, or the Seven Sisters, is the brightest and closest to the Earth’s Northern Hemisphere, especially in the winter months, when it can be seen with the naked eye from sunset to sunrise.
The Seven Sisters helped guide sailors’ journeys, and this aptly named coffeecake guides cravings in the Midwest today. To manage the effort of creating this pastry centerpiece, I like to divide the tasks as a sailor would—make the pastry and fillings one day, and assemble the elements the next morning before baking.
¾ cup/168 g whole milk
3 tablespoons/38 g granulated sugar
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch
Pinch of fine sea salt
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon pure almond extract
3 ounces/75 g almond paste
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, very soft
¼ teaspoon pure almond extract
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)
Nonstick cooking spray for pan
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 batch Shortcut Danish Pastry (here), chilled
1 batch Five-Finger Icing (here)
Prepare the custard: In a 1- to 1½-quart/1 to 1.4 L saucepan, whisk together the milk, granulated sugar, egg yolk, cornstarch, and salt until well blended. Over medium heat, whisk often until the custard is very thick and just beginning to bubble, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the vanilla and almond extracts. Press the custard through a sieve into a small bowl. Cover the surface with a sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold and firm, at least 4 hours, or up to 2 days ahead.
Next, prepare the almond filling: In a small bowl, crumble the almond paste, then add the brown sugar, butter, almond extract, and salt. Mash with a fork to blend well. Add 1 tablespoon of the beaten egg white. Continue to mash and stir until a thick but spreadable paste forms. If necessary, drizzle in an extra teaspoon or two of egg white to reach a peanut butter–like consistency. Stir in the ground cinnamon (if using). Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 2 days ahead.
Prepare the dough: Spray an 8-inch/20 cm round cake pan with nonstick cooking spray.
On slightly floured work surface, cut off a third of the dough, crosswise. Roll out the smaller portion of dough to a rough 8-inch/20 cm square. Place the pastry in the prepared pan and press it thinly and evenly across the bottom and about 1 inch/2.5 cm up the sides. Set in the refrigerator to chill while you shape the rolls. Remove the almond filling and custard from the refrigerator.
Roll the other portion of dough to an 8 × 10-inch/20 × 25 cm rectangle, with the longer side facing you. Spread thinly and evenly with half the almond filling. Whisk the custard until smooth and spread about ¼ cup of it over the almond filling. Roll up into a tight log, pinching the seam together. Cut into 7 equal rolls.
Spread the remaining half of the almond filling evenly on the bottom of the chilled pastry shell. Top with the remaining custard. Place the rolls in the custard with the seams facing inward, first with 1 roll in the center, and the remaining 6 circling it. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest in a warm place for about 30 minutes until slightly puffy (it will not rise as much as a bread dough).
Position a rack to the center of the oven and preheat it to 375°F/190°C. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until deeply golden and the custard is set on the edges—there may be a slight wobble toward the center. Set the pan on a wire rack to cool completely.
Drizzle with Five-Finger Icing. When the icing has set, cut and serve. Store any leftovers tightly covered at room temperature for up to 2 days.