Serves 12
THOSE IN THE MIDWEST KNOW THE DAY WELL: WE OPEN OUR EYES ONE MORNING to find the sticky, seemingly endless dog days of August have made an abrupt exit overnight, and think maybe we shouldn’t have left the windows open because brrrrrr. Suddenly a plaid flannel, light sweater, and/or closed-toed shoes suddenly feel highly appropriate. Maybe we won’t need two showers today! Maybe we’ll even go apple picking this weekend! Glory be!
For much-welcomed early autumn mornings like these, this is the first fall-feeling recipe for which I fire up the oven, hoping the poor thing doesn’t sputter and cough upon igniting, having been neglected for many weeks in exchange for outdoor grilling. If you can find roasted, salted pumpkin seed kernels, throw a few handfuls in the batter and sprinkle on top for extra crunch. It’s October in an 8 × 8, I’m telling you.
Nonstick cooking spray for pan
1¾ cups/224 g unbleached all-purpose flour, spooned and leveled
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly grated ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1¼ teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ cups/200 g canned pure pumpkin purée
½ cup/113 g vegetable oil
1¼ cups/250 g granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
⅓ cup/75 g cold water
1 cup/170 g bittersweet chocolate chips (60% cacao)
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Prepare the cake: Position a rack to the lower third of the oven and preheat it to 350°F/180°C.
Spray an 8-inch/20 cm square light-colored metal baking pan with nonstick cooking spray and line it with parchment paper.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.
In another large bowl, whisk together the pumpkin purée, oil, and sugar until well blended. Whisk in the eggs and the vanilla until combined, then whisk in the cold water. Fold in the chocolate chips.
Fold the dry ingredients into the wet, being careful not to overmix the batter. Spread the batter into the prepared pan, and gently knock the bottom of the pan on the countertop to even out the batter. Use a spatula to smooth the top.
Prepare the topping: Combine the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Dampen your fingertips with water and work them into the sugar until it just begins to clump up a bit. Scatter over the batter.
Bake in the center of the oven until a toothpick inserted in a chocolate chip–free area comes out clean, 60 to 70 minutes. Let cool completely before slicing and serving. Store any leftovers wrapped tightly in plastic wrap for up to 5 days.