ITALIAN BAKERY BUTTER COOKIES

Makes 2 to 3 dozen cookies, depending on size and shape

I HAD AN ODD AFFINITY FOR ITALIAN BUTTER COOKIES AS A CHILD, AND HAVE memories of digging through a white waxed cardboard bakery box to find the shell-shaped ones with the most rainbow jimmies on them. It’s not that they tasted better than chocolate chip, or were more exciting than an Oreo. Maybe it was the novelty of being able to buy handfuls of cookies by the pound, as so many midwestern bakeries sell them. In fact, I used to think of this type of cookie as being “sprinkle-flavored,” probably because most places selling cookies by the pound aren’t producing them to be the pinnacle of buttery flavor. And to be honest, with the increase of bakeries using shortening in their cookies, it can be tough to find a good one. As soon as I made my own at home, with really great, rich European-style butter, I think I might have ruined myself for life. My top tip here is to be prepared to pipe the cookies as soon as the dough is finished, so it’s easy to pipe and holds a nice shape.

Position racks to the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat it to 350°F/180°C. Line 2 baking sheets with silicone liners or parchment paper (silicone liners make the piping a little easier, as they don’t lift up as the bag pulls away from each cookie). Have ready a heavy-duty piping bag fitted with a large open star tip, such as Ateco #826.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-high speed until creamy. Add the confectioners’ sugar and continue to beat until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Reduce the mixer speed to medium and beat in the egg, egg yolk, vanilla, and the additional extract of your choice. Blend for 1 minute more. Reduce the mixer speed to low and stir in the flour, salt, and baking powder. Scrape down the bowl well and make sure the dough is well mixed.

Immediately transfer the dough to the prepared piping bag. Pipe the cookies in your desired shapes—aim for cookies about 2 inches/5 cm wide, spaced about 2 inches/5 cm apart (they won’t spread much while baking). Decorate with candied cherries, sprinkles, or sparkling colored sugars, if you wish. Refrigerate on the sheets for about 15 minutes, or freeze for 5 minutes.

Bake until lightly golden at the edges, 10 to 12 minutes (cookies on parchment will brown faster; those on silicone mats will need a little more time to color). Allow the cookies to cool on the sheets for 2 or 3 minutes before transferring them to wire racks to cool completely. To finish nonsprinkled cookies, drizzle or sandwich with melted dark or white chocolate.

TIP > This dough is also suitable for a cookie press.